My experience with a new RV: Vengeance Rogue Armored 351g2

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by BloodAngl

Well, until I figure out how to secure the storage, I figured removing the pull handles would go a long way. At least I'm not /helping/ someone get in there. Attachment 257410Attachment 257411Attachment 257412

Locks are for honest people ! nothing will stop someone from getting in if they want. save your money on the locks as it will make no difference to a thief

[BloodAngl]

Originally Posted by Keith_Schumaker

My 371 has the transfer switch in the box next to the generator where the batteries are stored. I would check there first.

Thank you for the tip! I'll check that out today. I would not have guessed this area!

[BloodAngl]

Originally Posted by MR.M

Locks are for honest people ! nothing will stop someone from getting in if they want. save your money on the locks as it will make no difference to a thief

I certainly agree, but wanted some sort of deterrent as I didn't want to be the easiest target in the park.

I ended up just replacing all the latches with like-keyed locks with fairly flat latches. I know a lot favor the round keys, but those are just too easy to break into (use a lighter to melt a plastic pen, stick it in and let it harden into the shape of the key then twist.) IDK how to break into a regular lock, but it can't be easier.

I get that a prybar/screwdriver would bypass these easily, but that's putting me on an even footing with everyone in the park at that point.

At least they can't be opened by everyone's keys or a casual twist of the wrist, now.

Also, any chance to get that bulky RV key off my ring is a win, lol.

BTW: thank you for the comment and advice!

[BloodAngl]

Originally Posted by Keith_Schumaker

My 371 has the transfer switch in the box next to the generator where the batteries are stored. I would check there first.

I took a look in both of those bays (genny is separated from the batteries) and nothing stood out to me. There was one junction box that seemed likely, but I didn't feel confident.

Does this seem right? It's not in the box as described.

[BloodAngl]

Lol, after doing some image searches of a transfer switch and comparing to my pic, I see that it's on it right side. Labeled "transfer switch." :rofl:

[BloodAngl]

Ok, I found the transfer switch, but which wires do i use? The instructions are ridiculously vague with this unit,only providing a diagram.

[BloodAngl]

Maybe the middle group labeled, "power cord?"

Am I going to need some extra cable here?

[BloodAngl]

Alright, I called Hughes and talked with a guy who took a look and confirmed I should be interrupting the MIDDLE set of cables labeled, "power cord." males sense, but great to have confirmation.

Now I need to go find some 6AWG cable.

I have to mention, it was really odd this day & age to call a company and someone just /answer/ :O

It was so shocking yet refreshing to not forced to wade through automated systems. This was a great experience.

[BloodAngl]

I got the Eternabond tape applied before the rain started. 6" white on front and back, 4" black down both sides. The black looks great on the sides - big props to the forum members for that great suggestion.

All the leftovers will go around the misc parts in the center when the seals are nearly a year old in the spring.

Now I need to motivate to give her a good scrub in the rain before the temps drop.

[BloodAngl]

Wanted to follow up on the watchdog install.

For the cable I found Coleman Cable 90468808 50-Amp 4-Wire Range Power Cord, 6-Foot, 6', Black, 6 Ft - I got the 6ft for $32, but should've opted for the 4ft for $25.

It was the only 6AWG I could find.
I just cut the plug off and stripped each wire down. I still need to mount it on the wall.

[BloodAngl]

New update:

I like to learn by watching and when I saw my neighbor washing his Class A in the rain I knew right away that sounded like a smart move: no rinsing!

So, before it gets terribly cold, I gave my girl her first bath.

That motivated me so I wanted to show the other two projects today.

The blinds by the bed are tough to work so i drilled two holes through the base and fastened a nice metal handle made for a cabinet. Works perfect. Super stoked about the result.

The stupid usb charger for the speaker broke on me, but I was already prepared with a replacement. 2 Pieces Dual USB Car Charger Socket Power Outlet with Spring Cap, Panel Mount Dual Port 12V 24V Quick Car Charger for Cars Bus ATV RV Boat Truck, 3.1A

If you do this, there's a 15A fuse to pull before messing with wires. Unplugging from shore power nor flipping breakers cuts this power.



I basically pulled it out, tore it apart, cut & stripped the wires, drilled a second hole to feed the second set of wires thru, wired them together, sealed them and mounted them over the existing holes.

Now I have 4 ports, with dust covers and it looks MUCH better. I couldn't stand seeing the open terminals of the speaker dock. This is much easier on my eyes.

Next to it is a temp/humidity sensor. Seeing how much room was in the wall, I think I'm going to cut a hole and mount it flush.

I know these window have almost no R-value.
Do full-timers put insulation on these?

I've been thinking about the clear film that adheses around the border to still allow light. But, wondering if that'll be enough. I've cut reflective stiff foam insulation for the garage windows but it sure is dark in there with only the door for light. I'd prefer a little light in my bedroom.
What do the pros do?

Thank you for the help and ideas!

[BloodAngl]

I have been reading up on this integrated Driven sound system and how to hook it up to the TV. After lots of research, I figured that I could try to connect RCA cables, if it had the outputs.

I figured out there are two slots on the sides to pop the cover plate off, revealing 4 screws. Once those are out the unit pulls right out.

There are a lot of inputs/outputs to meet a lot of needs. I just choose the R/L out.

I hooked it all up and tested it before drilling and putting it all back together.

I drilled a small hole just large enough for a single jack to get through and squeezed the second through slowly, pulling slightly with the first lead.

I plugged those back into my TV and buttoned the unit back up for a fairly clean looking install.

I had to flip through my TV audio output choices until I found the one with sound, but an easy process.

I hope this helps someone. I read a bunch of threads where ppl gave up in frustration and I honestly wrote it off as impossible until I decided to just pull it out and inspect it. Attachment 266546Attachment 266547Attachment 266548Attachment 266549