Ordering a 25V

[PKC1740]

Looking to order a 25V from my local dealer. Considering ordering the gel coat siding and was wandering if anyone has one with the gel coat siding? Also, anything else I should know about this model or things I should or should not get? Was deciding between the 26FB13 and the 25V, but decided to go with the 25v because of the size, door in the bedroom and convection microwave. This is my first post by the way.

[johnm1]

We have the 25v with gelcoat (fiberglass, hard side ... whatever) and love it. We didn't get the fuel station. We did have the factory put in a powered vent fan (whimpy one same as bathroom) in the front bedroom and over the rear bunk/bed. We didnt get the power rear bed thing as I'd have to constantly duck to go under it and we dry camp more and more (power to go up and power to go down).

I just (yesterday) got and weighed the tounge on the camper. By the specs, it should be 1014# (probably alum siding) but came in at 1900#. I havr maybe 200# of stuff under the bed and a 25# grill on the front. That shouldn't add up to almost 900# extra on the tounge.

I need to call FR on Monday to see what their excuse will be.

Btw ... our toys are 4 kayaks and bicycles. Bikes on truck bed, kayaks in rv.

[formerFR]

Older type exterior walls are simply a wallboard that is sent from a supplier to the factory, then used as the 'exterior' wall that you see, most of the time white in color.
Gelcoat, though, is simply 'paint' ....a painted FIBERGLASS wall structure... because of the nature of how fiberglass items are 'built', it is applied FIRST, into a mold, before any of the fiberglass or other parts of the wall. Typically, after the gelcoat is sprayed, the fiberglass 'chop'(chopped up fiberglass filaments blown from a air gun, along with a resin) is applied, along with sometimes large 'mats' of fiberglass, and then 'laid in' with special rollers, all by hand. Since the walls are flat, it's likely that this process within RV factories is more mechanized, or automated. The inside of the wall is normally a thin paneling, or similar wall board, with a 'wall paper' like covering for texture, style, and color.
A foam insulation or similar lies between the two 'walls', and the factory cuts out the parts that become the windows, doors, etc.

Gelcoat is paint that is applied as part of the wall panel manufacturing... while
'full wall/body paint' is a term more used on higher-end RVs, where the raw 'gray' fiberglass wall is painted with automotive style paint AFTER the RV is manufactured. There may be several colors and layers of paint, along with one or more layers of clear-coat.
Gelcoat 'can' still also be painted, but normally it is a color determined by the factory at time of manufacture, most being a tan color for some reason. They may also add styling decals after the RV is built.

Some factories 'compact' their walls into one-piece panels, while others might apply the fiberglass outer wall onto metal or aluminum studs just like a home, even though they are all built separate from the chassis, itself, and either sit on top of the edge of the floor, or are 'hung'(attached) off the edge.

most manufacturers have their websites with videos of how they manufacture their RVs... and many other online videos are easily found.

[PKC1740]

Wow johnm1 that is concerning. I assume that is without toys in the back. Wonder if the spec tongue weight is with weight in the garage and it counter balances tongue weight? Keep me posted on the outcome with the conversation with FR. I plan on hauling a golf cart in the garage area.

[johnm1]

That weight is with nothing in the back end and a full tank of water.

I do have 2x6vdc batteries, a weber q200 grill on the tounge and 2x20# propane tanks. However, the weight of 1 battery can be deleted cause it comes with 1 already and 1 propane tank is empty and the other is 1/2 full so it kinda sorta evens out. Maybe it'd be closer to 1800#? But surely not 1014#

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by johnm1

We have the 25v with gelcoat (fiberglass, hard side ... whatever) and love it. We didn't get the fuel station. We did have the factory put in a powered vent fan (whimpy one same as bathroom) in the front bedroom and over the rear bunk/bed. We didnt get the power rear bed thing as I'd have to constantly duck to go under it and we dry camp more and more (power to go up and power to go down).

I just (yesterday) got and weighed the tounge on the camper. By the specs, it should be 1014# (probably alum siding) but came in at 1900#. I havr maybe 200# of stuff under the bed and a 25# grill on the front. That shouldn't add up to almost 900# extra on the tounge.

I need to call FR on Monday to see what their excuse will be.

Btw ... our toys are 4 kayaks and bicycles. Bikes on truck bed, kayaks in rv.

What method did you use to determine tongue weight. The ONLY one that will give you a completely accurate weight is a tongue scale. On my unit I used a tongue scale to move the chock location forward/aft to allow the 1,300 pound bike to only add about 100 pounds to the tongue. Non-loaded tongue weight is 1,250 and bike loaded weight is 1,370. Towing quality and mileage is the same regardless of the load configuration.

I can't think of any configuration that would give you a 1,900 pound tongue weight.

[johnm1]

I can't think of any reasonable reason why I got what I got. I used a Sherline (?) 2000# trailer tounge scale. I need to (and will) dig into this further. I do have extra weight up front but I have a very hard time believing it's 900#'s worth. 200# ... maybe 300# ... but not 900#.

[johnm1]

I weighed the tounge at the dealer today. It came in at 1650#. Much better than 1900# but still very over weight. I probably have 200-300# of crap added but we'd still be over the 1014# that FR says it should be. I need to call FR on Monday to see what might be the issue.