Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-26-2021, 04:07 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
DouglasReid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
many microwaves have an internal fuse. Yours may have one that 'blew' and needs to be replaced and the microwave may be just fine.
The fuse is in the hot not the neutral circuit in the microwave............he tested the receptacle to find the problem..........It ISN"T the fuse.

But on our latest trip, the microwave worked when we left home and did not upon our arrival in Mobile, AL.

It sort of turned out to be the fuse, but not the fuse itself, the U shaped fuse connector was broken preventing it from making contact.

We replaced it with a Microwave/Convection/Air Fryer for $109. Im still in the process of fitting it into the cabinet hole with the trim piece so it looks like it belongs there.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
DouglasReid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 04:10 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Jim1521's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ft. Myers, FL
Posts: 206
I just took it apart (it unplugs easily) and tested the plug on the breaker-box side. It still shows the same problem - when I test black with ground I get 120v. When I test black with white I get nothing.

So next step will be to further disassemble the plug and see if I can connect directly to the wires.

Man, I was really hoping that I was onto something there.
__________________

2020 Riverstone 39FK
2016 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L PowerStroke Lariat
Jim1521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 04:15 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
llamb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1521 View Post
I just took it apart (it unplugs easily) and tested the plug on the breaker-box side. It still shows the same problem - when I test black with ground I get 120v. When I test black with white I get nothing.

So next step will be to further disassemble the plug and see if I can connect directly to the wires.

Man, I was really hoping that I was onto something there.
What if you test from the outlet to the plug? You're trying to isolate a section of cable so just want to make sure you fully isolate things.
llamb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 04:19 PM   #24
Always Learning
 
ependydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,890
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1521 View Post
I just took it apart (it unplugs easily) and tested the plug on the breaker-box side. It still shows the same problem - when I test black with ground I get 120v. When I test black with white I get nothing.

So next step will be to further disassemble the plug and see if I can connect directly to the wires.

Man, I was really hoping that I was onto something there.
You can remove these connectors entirely if you put in a junction box.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
ependydad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 04:21 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
DouglasReid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1521 View Post
I just took it apart (it unplugs easily) and tested the plug on the breaker-box side. It still shows the same problem - when I test black with ground I get 120v. When I test black with white I get nothing.

So next step will be to further disassemble the plug and see if I can connect directly to the wires.

Man, I was really hoping that I was onto something there.
I HATE those plug in connectors. If it were mine Id buy two boxes, a length of Romex and hardwire two splices with wire nuts to get ride of those POS connectors.

Finding the problem will be a matter of working backwards to see where the break in continuity of the white wire happens.

Others have suggested looking at the back of that load center, finding the black wire connected to the Microwave breaker, then following that black wire to where it joins the white and bare wires in the Romex jacket.

Check to see if that white wire is tight under the screw on the Neutral buss on the back of the load center.

Since your other 120 volt appliances and receptacles still work, and the microwave is on its own circuit it seems the logical culprit.

If that wire is tight on the Neutral buss you have a break in the neutral wire somewhere between the load center and that connector.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
DouglasReid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 06:52 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
I apologize if I've misread something but are you saying you are are on a 50 amp circuit and are getting voltage up to 250 volts on one line? If so this most likely means you have lost your neutral feed to you breaker box. This is very dangerous and can easily damage all 120 volt appliances and the converter. You should disconnect from the pedestal immediately if that is the case.
Again, I apologize if I've misread your comments.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 08:14 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Jim1521's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ft. Myers, FL
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
I apologize if I've misread something but are you saying you are are on a 50 amp circuit and are getting voltage up to 250 volts on one line? If so this most likely means you have lost your neutral feed to you breaker box. This is very dangerous and can easily damage all 120 volt appliances and the converter. You should disconnect from the pedestal immediately if that is the case.
Again, I apologize if I've misread your comments.
No. The line voltage is fine - my Progressive surge protector has a faulty board inside it (at least that what Progressive tech support said) so they are shipping me a new one.

I fully tested Line 1 and Line 2 coming out of the outlet into the RV and it is a solid 118v on both lines.
__________________

2020 Riverstone 39FK
2016 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L PowerStroke Lariat
Jim1521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 08:34 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
You are testing at the wrong location. The problem is most likely inside your camper. It sounds like you have a loose neutral cable. The problem is most likely where the cable connects to your power distribution center (where the circuit breakers are located). Test your voltage there. Carefully tighten the clamps on all of the cables (L1, L2, neutral, and ground.) A loose neutral on a 240 volt circuit (which a 50 amp system is) will give you strange voltage readings and can let the voltage at an outlet go dangerously high. Thus could be why the microwave failed. It often damages the converter too - check it.
You really need to check this ASAP!
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 08:45 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
Umm...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
You are testing at the wrong location. The problem is most likely inside your camper. It sounds like you have a loose neutral cable. The problem is most likely where the cable connects to your power distribution center (where the circuit breakers are located). Test your voltage there. Carefully tighten the clamps on all of the cables (L1, L2, neutral, and ground.) A loose neutral on a 240 volt circuit (which a 50 amp system is) will give you strange voltage readings and can let the voltage at an outlet go dangerously high. Thus could be why the microwave failed. It often damages the converter too - check it.
You really need to check this ASAP!
Umm, Woody, the OP already found the problem--a bad splice between two NM cable segments.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 08:58 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Umm, Woody, the OP already found the problem--a bad splice between two NM cable segments.
I asked in post #26 if he was having high voltage as he mentioned earlier. If so I'm telling him what to check. I'm not sure what he has. A bad splice on a 120 volt circuit won't cause high voltage. It's just things for him to check.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2021, 09:13 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Jim1521's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ft. Myers, FL
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
I asked in post #26 if he was having high voltage as he mentioned earlier. If so I'm telling him what to check. I'm not sure what he has. A bad splice on a 120 volt circuit won't cause high voltage. It's just things for him to check.
The high voltage is an aberration. A problem with the defective surge protector.
__________________

2020 Riverstone 39FK
2016 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L PowerStroke Lariat
Jim1521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 04:11 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 147
...

Jim,

Glad to hear you already found the problem.

This might apply to another person that stumbles across this thread while researching all the ways that outlet power fails in an RV.

My buddy had a problem with his 5vr. The outside kitchen 110v fridge quit working.

His 'open circuit' turned out to be another outlet between the circuit box and fridge. The RV manufacturer had crammed two more wires into the flimsy knife slots that are made to hold and connect one wire to the outlet. Of course the stacked third wire hardly made contact in the vee that formed and then fell out.

These RV outlets are so cheap, I'm amazed that they ever work right with the first outlet off the circuit box, let alone trying to stack and use the slots as a junction box.

On the other hand, it seems like any microwave, such as yours, might be hooked to a dedicated 20A circuit because many have a convection oven option. Dedicated would indeed mean a single direct wire from the circuit box without a chancy junction.

I did tap my 20A microwave circuit for another handier overhead, under-cabinet outlet used for coffee and toast, but I made darn sure there would be reliable contact to do so. With the outlet overhead, there is a bonus in that the appliance cords don't drape across the counter. They go straight up.

Wes
__________________
2019 Leprechaun 311FS
Wes, Linda & Quincy (std. Brown Poodle)
2015 Husqvarna FE350S
Wes Tausend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 04:39 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,406
Just another thought do you have the energy management system? Of course if you have 3 a/c units it is required so not sure what you have, I hope you found your issues but if not maybe the EMS might need checked. Following along to see the outcome.
__________________
2017 River Stone Legacy 38mb
2001 Kenworth T2000
2016 Smart for Two on deck
dblr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 05:05 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1521 View Post
The high voltage is an aberration. A problem with the defective surge protector.
Ok, great. I was concerned for you if it was high.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 06:30 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Jim1521's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ft. Myers, FL
Posts: 206
I have not found the problem yet. I am still trying to isolate exactly where the problem is. It is a dedicated 20a circuit from the breaker panel to the outlet. Those Molex connectors are in the path.

I'm starting to think that there is another outlet or device in the line that is faulty.
Jim1521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 06:49 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
Please do keep us posted.
If you haven't done so I suggest checking for tightness the main power cables in the progressive unit (assuming it is permanent install, not portable) and their connection to the main distribution panel. Of course unplug from power before checking these.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 07:06 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1521 View Post
I just took it apart (it unplugs easily) and tested the plug on the breaker-box side. It still shows the same problem - when I test black with ground I get 120v. When I test black with white I get nothing.

So next step will be to further disassemble the plug and see if I can connect directly to the wires.

Man, I was really hoping that I was onto something there.
Jim, I don't mean to belabor things, but I'm still not clear on your situation. A couple of questions.
1. Does the microwave work on a known good outlet? Perhaps the 20 amp outlet on the campsite pedestal.
2. Are you describing an outlet in your above discussion? If so that is an open neutral condition. Are all outlets in your camper this way? Several outlets? Only one?
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
CedarCreekWoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 11:17 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
The Newsoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 489
Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
Jim, I don't mean to belabor things, but I'm still not clear on your situation. A couple of questions.
1. Does the microwave work on a known good outlet? Perhaps the 20 amp outlet on the campsite pedestal.
2. Are you describing an outlet in your above discussion? If so that is an open neutral condition. Are all outlets in your camper this way? Several outlets? Only one?
I believe all of these questions are answered in previous posts
The Newsoms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 12:16 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
Two conductors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Tausend View Post
His 'open circuit' turned out to be another outlet between the circuit box and fridge. The RV manufacturer had crammed two more wires into the flimsy knife slots that are made to hold and connect one wire to the outlet. Of course the stacked third wire hardly made contact in the vee that formed and then fell out.
I think the outlets are actually specced for two conductors per slot. Three would be out of spec.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2021, 01:47 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
I think the outlets are actually specced for two conductors per slot. Three would be out of spec.
...

Thanks Larry. I didn't ever read what the specs actually were. By observation, it just seemed chancy that more than one would ever be correct. That answers why an RV manufacturer might do such a thing.

The assembly my buddy had, vee'd out from the first wire which is actually properly trapped in it's clamp. The second, and for sure the third, were held very loosely in an ever-widening vee.

I don't remember how he fixed it, since the original outlet appeared to be permanently distorted that way. He might have replaced the outlet since I'd mentioned that I found the identical item in a local RV parts center.

I'd used an identical new outlet, found locally, in my under-cabinet kitchen add because that's about all that fits in this shallow, commonly used wiring cavity.

Wes
__________________
2019 Leprechaun 311FS
Wes, Linda & Quincy (std. Brown Poodle)
2015 Husqvarna FE350S
Wes Tausend is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
microwave

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:46 AM.