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Old 11-29-2021, 06:26 PM   #1
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Calling All Nobo Owners S.O.S.

So I bought a brand new 19.2, I'm having issues with the heat staying on. I have fuel and have fuel in the lines stove works fine. When I pulled the fuse to check it it was fine so I plugged it back in and the heater clicked back on I came out this morning and it was 40 in there again and the heater won't kick on. The refrigerator does not stay on either with the onboard solar it kills the thing within the day. I'm not plugged in I'm trying to have basic functions for camping. Has anyone else had these issues? What fixed them for you? I'm awaiting a call from forest river service.
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:07 AM   #2
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unless you have a large solar charging system I doubt your batteries will keep up. If you are to plugged in are you using a generator to recharge? the furnace will drain a single battery fast on cold nights. JMHO
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:34 AM   #3
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I'm not sure there is anything wrong other than you don't understand how your system works.

If you have a 12v compressor type refrigerator and running the furnace all night without having a HUGE battery bank, you will run out of 12v current in less than one night. Furnaces will not run on low 12v current. They have a safety feature built in that shuts them off on low battery.

Tell us about your battery bank and how much solar you you have.
Are you totally relying on your solar to keep your battery(ies) charged or do you run a generator with the R/V plugged in to help top them off?
Solar panels need brilliant sunshine to properly output voltage to charge batteries. Even a partially cloudy day can reduce the output to half or less.
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:35 AM   #4
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You did not provide any details on the solar, but from the NoBo's I have seen it is unlikely that the stock solar setup will run a 12V fridge and furnace fan for any length of time. You need to obtain some capacities/requirements and do some math.



You need to know.

Battery capacity
Charge capacity of your solar
approx run time for your furnace
12V current demand from furnace fan
est of 12V current requirement for fridge
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Old 11-30-2021, 11:24 AM   #5
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Sorry about that. It is the stock solar system (1x190W panel) which is a joke as I'm finding out. Its a standard car battery that the dealer provided. I have not upgraded anything as of yet. I want to add at least two (four would be ideal with 2x300W panels) battle born 100ah Lithium batteries however I'm not sure if I can just drop a lithium battery into the system. I've read that it will damage the electrical system and also that it would be fine, needless to say I have not attempted to upgrade that yet and have not found anyone local that can help. So the furnace itself is enough to kill the battery over night smdh. So this is really meant to be a campsite to campsite rig it seems. Will changing this stuff out to stuff that actually WORKS void any warranty?

Also this is NOT RUNNING THE FRIDGE. ONLY heat I have nothing else plugged in no usbs, no tv, nothing but the furnace was on.

PS The temps have been in the 40s and I had the furnace set to 68. I really expected it to at least heat the dang thing lol
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Old 11-30-2021, 11:39 AM   #6
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That rig is well suited for camping anywhere you have to realistic about your approach. With one dealer supplied battery the furnace will more then likely kill it overnight in clod weather. Given this time of year here is how I would approach this situation. First I would get a second 12V battery (prior to full change out to lithium) next I would acquire an inverter generator around 2K watts or better yet two. durning the day (early morning) I would charge my batteries to full 4-6 hours (provides power for coffee pot and such) then let the solar keep them topped off. JMHO
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:08 PM   #7
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That rig is well suited for camping anywhere you have to realistic about your approach. With one dealer supplied battery the furnace will more then likely kill it overnight in clod weather. Given this time of year here is how I would approach this situation. First I would get a second 12V battery (prior to full change out to lithium) next I would acquire an inverter generator around 2K watts or better yet two. durning the day (early morning) I would charge my batteries to full 4-6 hours (provides power for coffee pot and such) then let the solar keep them topped off. JMHO
Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to find the two honda 2200i gens but you know supply issues lol. I can add a kit to make them run on propane as well as keeping the gas feature. I did upgrade from a single 20lb tank to two 30lb tanks with the future gens in mind. I fell for the marketing, these trailers are not No Boundaries, more like bound to campsites with full hook ups. Here's to dropping more cash to make this thing what it is marketed as.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:14 PM   #8
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Aside from the power house issues and a few other defects (Bathroom door falling off the hinge on the ride home, main door being bowed so the door pops open unless deadbolted) The trailer is nice and I prefer that style to the rippled siding ones.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ArmyOfSquirrels View Post
Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to find the two honda 2200i gens but you know supply issues lol. I can add a kit to make them run on propane as well as keeping the gas feature. I did upgrade from a single 20lb tank to two 30lb tanks with the future gens in mind. I fell for the marketing, these trailers are not No Boundaries, more like bound to campsites with full hook ups. Here's to dropping more cash to make this thing what it is marketed as.
If you are set on Honda's (and then converting them to propane) that's fine.
Just keep an open mind to the many other alternatives available. Champion makes a good dual fuel generator line. (for consideration)

Likely the dealer supplied battery IS NOT a true deep cycle battery so you can start by replacing that with a better FLA (flooded lead acid) battery (or two) for minimal money before you go Lithium.

Yes, running the furnace at 68º all through the night will kill a single group 24 battery especially if it isn't a deep cycle. Most of us set the thermostat back at night to 50º or so and use warm blankets or a down sleeping bag. Crank up the heat in the morning when you get up.

As I mentioned, unless you have a large solar array, even minimal cloud cover will lessen the effectiveness of charging the battery(ies).

These R/Vs are marketed as "No Boundries" and to an extent, they are but there are also limitations as to what you can/can't do. At least you have a rig with a good start. Many folks have no solar whatsoever and have to rely on generators when at a campsite without hook-ups or only book shore power campsites.

While you may not be able to run everything you want (in the capacity you want) you do have a way to charge laptops and mobile devices and put some juice back in the battery for lights and your water pump, etc.

Unfortunately in life, we often learn lessons after the fact and it appears you are learning about R/V life without hook-ups as you camp rather than having done some homework and being a bit better prepared on your first outing.

Best of luck finding the tools/items necessary to enjoy your R/V the way you want to enjoy it.
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Old 11-30-2021, 01:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
If you are set on Honda's (and then converting them to propane) that's fine.
Just keep an open mind to the many other alternatives available. Champion makes a good dual fuel generator line. (for consideration)

Likely the dealer supplied battery IS NOT a true deep cycle battery so you can start by replacing that with a better FLA (flooded lead acid) battery (or two) for minimal money before you go Lithium.

Yes, running the furnace at 68º all through the night will kill a single group 24 battery especially if it isn't a deep cycle. Most of us set the thermostat back at night to 50º or so and use warm blankets or a down sleeping bag. Crank up the heat in the morning when you get up.

As I mentioned, unless you have a large solar array, even minimal cloud cover will lessen the effectiveness of charging the battery(ies).

These R/Vs are marketed as "No Boundries" and to an extent, they are but there are also limitations as to what you can/can't do. At least you have a rig with a good start. Many folks have no solar whatsoever and have to rely on generators when at a campsite without hook-ups or only book shore power campsites.

While you may not be able to run everything you want (in the capacity you want) you do have a way to charge laptops and mobile devices and put some juice back in the battery for lights and your water pump, etc.

Unfortunately in life, we often learn lessons after the fact and it appears you are learning about R/V life without hook-ups as you camp rather than having done some homework and being a bit better prepared on your first outing.

Best of luck finding the tools/items necessary to enjoy your R/V the way you want to enjoy it.
The sad thing is I did do research which is what led me to Nobo and forest river, and made me avoid others. I just expected more than it can deliver stock. I almost think it would have been better to not have the solar so I could set up a complete solar system from scratch, I'm not sure if they are plug and play compatible? Can I just swap out batteries, invertors, charger manager, and panels to meet my needs or will I need to replace the whole system wiring and all? I have no experience with Solar prior to this and from what I've experienced with Solar for this trailer I don't see why anyone is investing in these for their homes without a huge shed for a battery bank to make it worth while.
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Old 11-30-2021, 01:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ArmyOfSquirrels View Post
The sad thing is I did do research which is what led me to Nobo and forest river, and made me avoid others. I just expected more than it can deliver stock. I almost think it would have been better to not have the solar so I could set up a complete solar system from scratch, I'm not sure if they are plug and play compatible? Can I just swap out batteries, invertors, charger manager, and panels to meet my needs or will I need to replace the whole system wiring and all? I have no experience with Solar prior to this and from what I've experienced with Solar for this trailer I don't see why anyone is investing in these for their homes without a huge shed for a battery bank to make it worth while.
It's no different than the RV marketing nonsense about "1/2 ton towable 5th Wheels". Generally only a handful of properly spec'd 1/2 ton trucks are capable of towing them.

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Old 11-30-2021, 02:57 PM   #12
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Winter camping for heat other then the initial warmup with the furnace I use an Olympic Wave 6 catalytic heater no electricity required and just sips propane. I have a 200W solar suitcase to keep the batteries up and 2 Yamaha inverter generators for the heavy stuff (microwave). I have never killed my batteries. You don't need allot of expensive equipment to boondock comfortably in the cold or the heat. JMHO
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Old 11-30-2021, 03:52 PM   #13
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Skip the Lead Acid Battery & go to Lithium and more solar

Squirrel,
I have a similar trailer to you with the 190watt solar system installed. It is an entirely suitable unit for this type trailer, you DO NOT need to change it out or replace wiring. You should NOT need to modify or replace anything in your TT except for ditching the lead acid battery (a dealer supplied item, in which they give you a CHEAP minimum capabilitly one to reduce their cost).

A more suitable option than adding poor (lead acid) batteries and generators is to just go to Lithium batteries and skip wasting money of the LA batteries, then add a PORTABLE Solar Suitcase (Renogy makes a great 200 watt one that will plug right into your "Solar on the Side" port with NO additional changes needed) You may need to add a longer cable (10 AWG for use to 50 ft). The advantage to the portable solar is that you can move it around (out from under trees, if parked in shade) and you can point it directly at the sun for maximum efficiency, which is VERY important with low sun angles like we are experiencing at this time of year.


Ideally you will want a minimum of 350 watts solar (total) and 200 Amp Hrs of Lithium Batteries to boondock (no hookups) for 4-8 days. I have been running this setup all year (March to Oct, in Colo Rockies) with 8 wks of use and it has never failed me even in low temps (down to 20°F), running the 12V compressor refrigerator and the furnace at night (set at 70°F), along with all the other normal electrical loads.
When you go to install Lithium Batteries, it is best to install them inside somewhere (under the bed or seats?) as they are valuable and this will help protect them for thievery and the cold. It may be difficult to find a battery box to fit more than 2 -100AH or a large 250AH battery on your trailer frame tongue, but they are available from marine supply sources.

Lithium will DIScharge (provide energy) down to below ±0°F, but generally will need to be above ±32°F to CHARGE from your Solar, a Generator, or 120V plug in source. They also charge in about half the time as a LA battery and you can DIScharge them down to ±10% State of Charge (SoC) without damage (50% for LA) so you will get substantualy more power (Amp Hr) out of the Lithium for a given battery size, and they are bout 50% lighter and DO NOT require venting for off-gassing of dangerous gasses (MUCH SAFER, LESS MAINTENANCE).


When buying Lithuim batteries BE SURE to buy them with Lithium Ferric Potassium Oxide (LiFePO4) chemistry and BE SURE they have a Battery Management System (BMS) that will protect them from LOW Temperature (some of the CHEAPER ones DO NOT have this protection, which makes dealing with them difficult)


To simplify my installation (also less $ than 2-100AH) My dealer installed a single 250AH GoPower battery (your Solar system is probably GoPower) in the pass-thur storage under my bed (easy access to move wires from tongue without adding length).
Most likely the ONLY need for a Generator (probably two) is to run your Air Conditioner if you are not in a location with 120V AC power to plug into, ADN boondocking in the summer in the south, midwest, east or any lower elevations out west.


The one item you will also need is a proper Battery Monitor with a SHUNT to manage and monitor your energy use and the SoC of your Lithium Battery(s). Most of the more tech oriented guys on this site will recommend the Victron monitors (high $, some with phone app), but I prefer the simpler and VERY user friendly Renogy RBM500, which provides all the same info the Victrons do, for less $.
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:14 PM   #14
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Winter camping for heat other then the initial warmup with the furnace I use an Olympic Wave 6 catalytic heater no electricity required and just sips propane. I have a 200W solar suitcase to keep the batteries up and 2 Yamaha inverter generators for the heavy stuff (microwave). I have never killed my batteries. You don't need allot of expensive equipment to boondock comfortably in the cold or the heat. JMHO
no not when you have gas powered gens lol Solar on the other hand why bother?
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:25 PM   #15
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Squirrel,
I have a similar trailer to you with the 190watt solar system installed. It is an entirely suitable unit for this type trailer, you DO NOT need to change it out or replace wiring. You should NOT need to modify or replace anything in your TT except for ditching the lead acid battery (a dealer supplied item, in which they give you a CHEAP minimum capabilitly one to reduce their cost).

A more suitable option than adding poor (lead acid) batteries and generators is to just go to Lithium batteries and skip wasting money of the LA batteries, then add a PORTABLE Solar Suitcase (Renogy makes a great 200 watt one that will plug right into your "Solar on the Side" port with NO additional changes needed) You may need to add a longer cable (10 AWG for use to 50 ft). The advantage to the portable solar is that you can move it around (out from under trees, if parked in shade) and you can point it directly at the sun for maximum efficiency, which is VERY important with low sun angles like we are experiencing at this time of year.


Ideally you will want a minimum of 350 watts solar (total) and 200 Amp Hrs of Lithium Batteries to boondock (no hookups) for 4-8 days. I have been running this setup all year (March to Oct, in Colo Rockies) with 8 wks of use and it has never failed me even in low temps (down to 20°F), running the 12V compressor refrigerator and the furnace at night (set at 70°F), along with all the other normal electrical loads.
When you go to install Lithium Batteries, it is best to install them inside somewhere (under the bed or seats?) as they are valuable and this will help protect them for thievery and the cold. It may be difficult to find a battery box to fit more than 2 -100AH or a large 250AH battery on your trailer frame tongue, but they are available from marine supply sources.

Lithium will DIScharge (provide energy) down to below ±0°F, but generally will need to be above ±32°F to CHARGE from your Solar, a Generator, or 120V plug in source. They also charge in about half the time as a LA battery and you can DIScharge them down to ±10% State of Charge (SoC) without damage (50% for LA) so you will get substantualy more power (Amp Hr) out of the Lithium for a given battery size, and they are bout 50% lighter and DO NOT require venting for off-gassing of dangerous gasses (MUCH SAFER, LESS MAINTENANCE).


When buying Lithuim batteries BE SURE to buy them with Lithium Ferric Potassium Oxide (LiFePO4) chemistry and BE SURE they have a Battery Management System (BMS) that will protect them from LOW Temperature (some of the CHEAPER ones DO NOT have this protection, which makes dealing with them difficult)


To simplify my installation (also less $ than 2-100AH) My dealer installed a single 250AH GoPower battery (your Solar system is probably GoPower) in the pass-thur storage under my bed (easy access to move wires from tongue without adding length).
Most likely the ONLY need for a Generator (probably two) is to run your Air Conditioner if you are not in a location with 120V AC power to plug into, ADN boondocking in the summer in the south, midwest, east or any lower elevations out west.


The one item you will also need is a proper Battery Monitor with a SHUNT to manage and monitor your energy use and the SoC of your Lithium Battery(s). Most of the more tech oriented guys on this site will recommend the Victron monitors (high $, some with phone app), but I prefer the simpler and VERY user friendly Renogy RBM500, which provides all the same info the Victrons do, for less $.
Thank you. Did you just swap out the LA for Lithium or did you need to change anything out sounds like just dropping in the batteries and getting a couple 200W panels would solve my issues.
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:27 PM   #16
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Winter camping for heat other then the initial warmup with the furnace I use an Olympic Wave 6 catalytic heater no electricity required and just sips propane. I have a 200W solar suitcase to keep the batteries up and 2 Yamaha inverter generators for the heavy stuff (microwave). I have never killed my batteries. You don't need allot of expensive equipment to boondock comfortably in the cold or the heat. JMHO
I thought about getting a buddy heater to use but I'd prefer the heater I already bought work lol how do you like the yamahas? do they last as long as the hondas? Do the hondas still last like they use to for that matter? I saw a review on a honda gen 60 years and its still started right up first pull.

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Old 11-30-2021, 07:48 PM   #17
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Squirrels,
You can change out the lead Acid battery for Lithium with only two changes 1) Change Solar Charge Controller to Lithium Setting, & 2) Change 120V Converter/Charger to Lithium, if possible, if not that is OK too. (see details in a private message).
You will probably be fine with just ONE 200w Solar Suitcase, try that before you add more.
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:48 PM   #18
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Do any of you have experience with Eco Flow Delta Pro? This thing seems really nice. Dude ran the AC and a 3500W Heater on it with two Ebikes, a tablet, and and Iphone. Cherry on top I could recharge at an EV port and piss off the tesla drivers first come first serve haha
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Old 11-30-2021, 08:06 PM   #19
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The difference I see is taht the Generator can run continuosly (until it runs out of fule0 putting out ±2000 watts (at 120V) over 6-8 hrs. for a total output of 100-133 Amp Hrs (at 12V). You should check the specs on the Eco FLow to see HOE LONG it can provide the 1300± watts, How many Amp hrs is that? My guess is the Eco Flow can only provide as much power as it's internal Lithium Battery can hold, so in effect you are simply transferring power form the Eco Flow battery to your TT battery. When that internal battery is discharged you are done.
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Old 11-30-2021, 10:18 PM   #20
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The difference I see is taht the Generator can run continuosly (until it runs out of fule0 putting out ±2000 watts (at 120V) over 6-8 hrs. for a total output of 100-133 Amp Hrs (at 12V). You should check the specs on the Eco FLow to see HOE LONG it can provide the 1300± watts, How many Amp hrs is that? My guess is the Eco Flow can only provide as much power as it's internal Lithium Battery can hold, so in effect you are simply transferring power form the Eco Flow battery to your TT battery. When that internal battery is discharged you are done.
Yes this generator has the battery bank of 300AH (which can be extended to a whooping 25kWH/2,083.3AH converted at 12V) with a 3600W pure sine invertor (something I only have a 1000W in the TT) I was looking at getting the honda gens but would need either the one 135 lb one or two 54lb 2200i. This invertor has and can power the 30A plug with just this single unit coming in at 100lbs with wheels and a built in luggage style handle. I also found out this company was founded in 2017 by DJI employees who worked on making the drone batteries lighter and more powerful while lasting longer. It can be charged by 6 different methods to include WIND, while also supporting multicharge so you can stack the inputs to charge faster it said up to 6500W. This would set me back about $3500 with a $200 off coupon for signing up for the return to stock notification. I could always add the battery bank to the trailer later as a nice back up. I could get away with one BB on the trailer for now right?

https://ecoflow.com/products/ecoflow...-power-station
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