Nobo- backup camera install?

[cacher77]

Hi everyone,
Just picked up a 19.7 a couple weeks ago, drove from SoCal to Phoenix to pickup and went straight to a campground w/ the fam. Great rig, we love it so far. Anyone add a wireless backup cam? If so, which did pick?

I called Forest River and the led's on the exterior top rear are 12v, so it would power a cam. Thanks.

[campwest]

I was just going to post this question! We have a 16.5 and I was also eyeing those LED lights on the back/roof for wiring. Would you just remove one of the lights and install a cam in its place? Wireless vs wired? Also interested in makes and models others have installed.

Sorry I don't have more answers, just more questions!

[RetiredUSMCGal]

I bought a NOBO 19.7 last week. I pick it up this Sat in Roanoke before I head back to northern Virginia. Purchased the Furrion Vision S 7” (FOS07TASF). I hope I made a decent purchase (e.g., compatible/functional). Will post pics post dealer install. My son wanted one last pic before we left the dealer. Not nearly as scenic as yours but we’re getting there.

[hack522]

Originally Posted by RetiredUSMCGal

I bought a NOBO 19.7 last week. I pick it up this Sat in Roanoke before I head back to northern Virginia. Purchased the Furrion Vision S 7” (FOS07TASF). I hope I made a decent purchase (e.g., compatible/functional). Will post pics post dealer install. My son wanted one last pic before we left the dealer. Not nearly as scenic as yours but we’re getting there.

I don't have any answers but enjoy your rig. Looks like you stopped at Lake Pleasant? If so we love that area. Safe travels.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by campwest

I was just going to post this question! We have a 16.5 and I was also eyeing those LED lights on the back/roof for wiring. Would you just remove one of the lights and install a cam in its place? Wireless vs wired? Also interested in makes and models others have installed.

Sorry I don't have more answers, just more questions!

Nope, don't do that. Federal safety standards require you to have five red marker/clearance lights in the rear: one at each upper corner and three in the center, with gaps less than a foot between.

These standards (FMVSS 108) also cover the amber lights on the sides and front.

You can certainly remove the center light, slide a camera bracket beneath it, and refasten the camera. Easy to tap the camera into the feed for the light.

Larry

[rogerkathy]

I recommend you install the cam below the running lights, not above. Ours is above and can’t use it while driving because the red lights block out what we try to see.

[PenJoe]

First, there are two types of camera systems-both serve a different purposes.
1. Backup camera: This is generally connected to the TV and is used for lining up the hitch to the trailer. It also serves a purpose when backing up. This system is wired to the backup lights circuit.

2. Rear View Camera: Your TV mirrors have very limited views. When traveling, you can not see what is directly behind the trailer. It is also very difficult to make lane changes. Vehicles approaching from the rear will very often come into the blind spot before changing lanes. Very dangerous if you can't see them and decide to change lanes as-well. When backing into a parking spot, the rear view camera helps to see the blind spots and your spotter. If you can't see the spotter, they can not give directions.

The rear view camera changes all of that. The camera is on all of the time the TV ignition switch is on and the trailer running lights are on. You can now see behind the trailer at all times-forward, neutral, reverse. We tip the camera down to see as close to the rear bumper as possible.

We have used better camera systems with the widest viewing angle possible.
Those have been 170-175 degrees of rear view vision. That is nearly straight out side to side. A good camera will not give appreciable distortion. When passing, when we can see the front bumper of the vehicle we have passed, we know we can change lanes. We can also see a vehicle approaching and can anticipate if they are going to pass and into which lane.

We used an RVS hard wired system on out cargo trailer and it was a heaven sent. RVS (Rear View Safety) also makes a wireless system.

As you anticipate a wireless system, it will still need a power source. That would be via one of the rear group of three rear center running lights. All running lights MUST be serviceable, so you can tap a wire, but not remove a light. LED lights take very little power. A camera takes 3-5 amps, so again, no appreciable power draw.

Others here will provide information on good "wireless" systems.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by RetiredUSMCGal

I bought a NOBO 19.7 last week. I pick it up this Sat in Roanoke before I head back to northern Virginia. Purchased the Furrion Vision S 7” (FOS07TASF). I hope I made a decent purchase (e.g., compatible/functional). Will post pics post dealer install. My son wanted one last pic before we left the dealer. Not nearly as scenic as yours but we’re getting there.

The Furrion Vision S 7” (FOS07TASF) is a rear "observations" camera and is the right choice. The camera will be wired to the center light of the cluster (below the light). The monitor wiring has two options: 1. to the TV ignition so that the monitor goes on/off with the ignition (cigarette lighter power source would suffice). 2. to the lighting circuit so that camera and monitor will only work when the running lights are on. Do not let anyone convince you to wire to the backup lights.

[primo20]

off topic here, but i was just at the Toronto RV show and say these rigs - colour me impressed! they looked great! congrats and enjoy!

[justpassinthru]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

The Furrion Vision S 7” (FOS07TASF) is a rear "observations" camera and is the right choice. The camera will be wired to the center light of the cluster (below the light). The monitor wiring has two options: 1. to the TV ignition so that the monitor goes on/off with the ignition (cigarette lighter power source would suffice). 2. to the lighting circuit so that camera and monitor will only work when the running lights are on. Do not let anyone convince you to wire to the backup lights.

I have one new in box. Never used if anyone interested. Pm me thanks

[campwest]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

First, there are two types of camera systems-both serve a different purposes.
1. Backup camera: This is generally connected to the TV and is used for lining up the hitch to the trailer. It also serves a purpose when backing up. This system is wired to the backup lights circuit.

2. Rear View Camera: Your TV mirrors have very limited views. When traveling, you can not see what is directly behind the trailer. It is also very difficult to make lane changes. Vehicles approaching from the rear will very often come into the blind spot before changing lanes. Very dangerous if you can't see them and decide to change lanes as-well. When backing into a parking spot, the rear view camera helps to see the blind spots and your spotter. If you can't see the spotter, they can not give directions.

The rear view camera changes all of that. The camera is on all of the time the TV ignition switch is on and the trailer running lights are on. You can now see behind the trailer at all times-forward, neutral, reverse. We tip the camera down to see as close to the rear bumper as possible.

We have used better camera systems with the widest viewing angle possible.
Those have been 170-175 degrees of rear view vision. That is nearly straight out side to side. A good camera will not give appreciable distortion. When passing, when we can see the front bumper of the vehicle we have passed, we know we can change lanes. We can also see a vehicle approaching and can anticipate if they are going to pass and into which lane.

We used an RVS hard wired system on out cargo trailer and it was a heaven sent. RVS (Rear View Safety) also makes a wireless system.

As you anticipate a wireless system, it will still need a power source. That would be via one of the rear group of three rear center running lights. All running lights MUST be serviceable, so you can tap a wire, but not remove a light. LED lights take very little power. A camera takes 3-5 amps, so again, no appreciable power draw.

Others here will provide information on good "wireless" systems.

Do those little circular lights just pull or twist out to reveal the wiring, or does the entire assembly need to be removed? I'm a little hesitant to go yanking on those little lights for fear of what lays beneath. Any tips?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by campwest

Do those little circular lights just pull or twist out to reveal the wiring, or does the entire assembly need to be removed? I'm a little hesitant to go yanking on those little lights for fear of what lays beneath. Any tips?

If the lamp inside were incandescent, the lens would have to come off for replacement. Even if it were an LED, the lens would have to come off so the assembly could be screwed to the trailer. You must be able to pull/twist the lens off to get at the screws.

Larry

[campwest]

Ok thanks for the tip! I pulled on the lens and the led just slipped right out of the gasket with the wires easily accessible. Phew!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by campwest

Ok thanks for the tip! I pulled on the lens and the led just slipped right out of the gasket with the wires easily accessible. Phew!

Get these t-taps and these spade connectors to tap into those wires and you're all set.

Larry

[campwest]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Get these t-taps and these spade connectors to tap into those wires and you're all set.

Larry

I took your advice and ordered the combo connector kit, but I ended up using screw-on wire connectors instead since they were a little narrower...seemed less likely to get stuck if I ever need to pull them back out of the smallish running-light grommet. After mounting the camera bracket with screws into the exterior wall/roof (about 5" above the running light), I drilled a hole in the center cutout of the bracket and snaked the camera's power cable down to the running-light hole where I tied into the running light wires. Everything lit up and worked great as soon as I connected the 7 pin on my truck and turned on the lights - hole in one!

If anyone's interested, this particular camera unit is the eRapta Wireless camera with a 7" screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SQGM71

Thanks for your guidance, Larry-NC

[rogerkathy]

Let us know how it works at night. I get glare from my running lights that is so bad I can’t see. I read my instructions and found out the dealer was supposed to install it below the running lights, not above.

[campwest]

Oh now that you mention it, I bet I'll have the same issue! I'm not too anxious to drill more holes, but if the glare is really bad I'll probably move it below the lights at some point.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by rogerkathy

Let us know how it works at night. I get glare from my running lights that is so bad I can’t see. I read my instructions and found out the dealer was supposed to install it below the running lights, not above.

Yes, below would have been better to stop glare. If there is glare, campwest may try putting a bit of electrical tape over the tops of the running lights to see if it eliminates the glare. As long as the running lights are visible to the sides and rear, it should be OK.

[Sinclair9]

Originally Posted by campwest

I took your advice and ordered the combo connector kit, but I ended up using screw-on wire connectors instead since they were a little narrower...seemed less likely to get stuck if I ever need to pull them back out of the smallish running-light grommet. After mounting the camera bracket with screws into the exterior wall/roof (about 5" above the running light), I drilled a hole in the center cutout of the bracket and snaked the camera's power cable down to the running-light hole where I tied into the running light wires. Everything lit up and worked great as soon as I connected the 7 pin on my truck and turned on the lights - hole in one!

If anyone's interested, this particular camera unit is the eRapta Wireless camera with a 7" screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SQGM71

Thanks for your guidance, Larry-NC

Looks great. What did you use to seal all of your penetrations? Did you just screw the camera directly into the camper?

[campwest]

I put boat hull sealant in each of the four pilot holes for the bracket-mount screws, a bead around the edges of the bracket itself, and a messy glob in the center hole where the power cable routes through the exterior panel.

I also used a small rubber grommet from Ace Hardware to protect/seal the power cable where it enters the camper wall, but I ended up covering the entire thing with the hull sealant anyway so it's a little ugly if you look close enough.