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Old 12-19-2018, 06:58 AM   #1
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Nobo fresh water drain question?

Hi Guys,

I just purchased a Nobo 10.6. I did the walk through yesterday but this was the first Nobo they ever sold. I felt like we were figuring out a lot of things together rather than a guided walk through.

One thing that I found really odd was the fresh water drain. It was a plastic pipe that hung down about 4-5 inches from the bottom of the unit. It had no protection and looks like it would get ripped off in about 5 min of any even mild off road activity. Any 6 inch rut would would destroy it.

My question is, does anybody else with a 10.6 have this? My hope is it was set up wrong. If this is correct, has anybody looked into making it more flush mount? Or skid plate?

I should have taken a picture as I won't pick it up till spring.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:04 AM   #2
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If there is enough pipe, have the dealer cut it shorter and reattach the drain valve.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:34 AM   #3
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Have you ever owned a camper before? Most/all campers have a drain (freshwater) that hangs down 4-6 inches, somewhere on the under side. Mine does, and the Fresh water tank 'breather' tube is right beside it. you should have nothing to worry about.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:47 AM   #4
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Yes, first trailer. I was pulling a cargo trailer that will filled with Camping stuff. Most of my camping is done off grid. I can't remember a trip where I was not in ruts or rocks that would easily rip that off. I thought the nobo 10.6 (forest river version of a off road utility trailer) would be geared a little better for off road.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:52 AM   #5
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I may do that or do it my self. I'm guessing the tank it self has threads for the pipe to go in, and threads on the other side for the cap. Perhaps there is a shorter pipe, or if not, I can cut and rethread the length hanging out.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:03 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82 View Post
If there is enough pipe, have the dealer cut it shorter and reattach the drain valve.

X2 ... mistakes/oversights do get out of the factory, ... point it out to the dealer, any reputable dealer will see the problem with that and gladly correct it, ... I'm pretty sure dealers get to bill FR for parts and labor when they have to do that sort of repairs/corrections, so it's not a loss for them, ... happy camping, ...


ps: ... by getting the dealer involved, if it is SOP from the factory and is nothing to worry about, they can say so, ... but if it is a mistake/oversight out of the factory, they will be aware of it and able to correct it, ...
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:08 AM   #7
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I may do that or do it my self. I'm guessing the tank it self has threads for the pipe to go in, and threads on the other side for the cap. Perhaps there is a shorter pipe, or if not, I can cut and rethread the length hanging out.

I do not believe the 'pipe' has threads on it... it is glued/melted on... leave it alone. I would caution against cutting it off more than it is now. A lot of 'thought' goes into these things and it is 'standard' from factory.

'But'... it is your camper... modify any way you want. but I see no need to go 'looking' for issues that may/will never be a problem. I guaranty you that you will have more things to worry about than a short hose under your unit.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:47 AM   #8
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I do not believe the 'pipe' has threads on it... it is glued/melted on... leave it alone. I would caution against cutting it off more than it is now. A lot of 'thought' goes into these things and it is 'standard' from factory.

'But'... it is your camper... modify any way you want. but I see no need to go 'looking' for issues that may/will never be a problem. I guaranty you that you will have more things to worry about than a short hose under your unit.
Cutting off my drain line was the first thing I did to my TT. Wanted to get rid of cap and install a 1/4 turn valve. The valve would've been too low, so I removed the factory piece and installed my valve right on the TEE that also leads to the FW pump.
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Old 12-19-2018, 11:20 AM   #9
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I may do that or do it my self. I'm guessing the tank it self has threads for the pipe to go in, and threads on the other side for the cap. Perhaps there is a shorter pipe, or if not, I can cut and rethread the length hanging out.
Most RV's have a "fresh water tank drain" and a "hot water low point drain and a cold water low point drain." (Some only have one low point drain.)

If what you're talking about is a low point drain, it does not attach to the tank. The tank will either have a separate drain valve OR may simply have a screw-in drain plug, which you could replace with a drain valve if you want.

See attached "generic plumbing" pic.

Looking at pics of your rig online, it looks pretty spartan.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-travel-trail...0-6/1385799751

I don't see a water heater or a toilet. It looks like you only have a cold water "spray" thing on that blue coiled hose. So I'm guessing you do have a water pump.

So my guess is that your 6" inch hose is a low point drain and your water tank has a drain plug, not a valve. But until you start looking, you won't know for sure.

Happy hunting!
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Old 12-19-2018, 02:51 PM   #10
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Regardless of whether the fitting is intentional or not, your instincts on ground clearance are probably right. And your willingness to modify the fitting is good. My suggestion is that, if you have the opportunity, replace the drain valve with a more substantial brass quarter-turn ball valve. The drain valve on my PUP still works after 5 seasons, but it feels delicate and fragile...as it's plastic. When I inevitably break it, I intend to replace it with a more sturdy fitting.

By the way, the drain on my PUP is tucked up tightly...no pipe whatsoever. It exits the side of the tank at the lowest possible point, goes straight out, and the plastic valve dumps downward with no pipe extension.

If you feel as if you need a pipe extension on either the low-point drain(s) (for winterizing) or the fresh tank, I'd suggest using clear, soft plastic tubing that can take an impact from a stump or rock. The valve on the fresh tank drain should be installed as high as possible and the drain tube extension added after the valve.

Your NoBo should already be lifted. I had to install a lift kit on my torsion axle on my PUP, because my stairs were taking a beating and the black-tank drain was in grave jeopardy. I only go on somewhat poorly maintained gravel roads, but I don't go "off-road," so follow your instincts and protect your rig. An impact on any plumbing dangling in harm's way can lead not only to a broken fitting, it might also wreck the tank as well. If you have black or grey tanks, they are typically integral with the toilet and shower, and, unlike the fresh tank, a chore to replace.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:20 PM   #11
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It is a solid plastic pipe that will not bend if impacted. I did not get underneath yet to see if it can be shortened un unskrewed. I did not take the trailer home yet as its full winter here. As for a lot of thought going into these trailers, I would say there was zero thought in having a plastic pipe hanging 4 inches lower than the body in an off road trailer. It will be modified by me or by rocks. I prefer to get it first.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:37 PM   #12
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A lot of great ideas guys, it is just a fresh water tank drain. No other plumbing on this trailer. I like the idea of a valve as apposed to the current screw on cap. I will see if I can rig something above the frame line. Ideally, aside from the axel, I would want it to be flush on the bottom. I may even add a skid plate. The soft rubber hose could work if an extension is needed, I just don't see why it needs to hang low at all. I'm not afraid to get a trailer, that drives in the rain, wet with fresh water. Thanks again!!
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by NoboUpNorth View Post
A lot of great ideas guys, it is just a fresh water tank drain. No other plumbing on this trailer. I like the idea of a valve as apposed to the current screw on cap. I will see if I can rig something above the frame line. Ideally, aside from the axel, I would want it to be flush on the bottom. I may even add a skid plate. The soft rubber hose could work if an extension is needed, I just don't see why it needs to hang low at all. I'm not afraid to get a trailer, that drives in the rain, wet with fresh water. Thanks again!!
That suggests a female fitting in the tank with a male-threaded pipe attached and a cap. A CAP??? How chintzy can they get??! What fun to have to unthread that cap with half a tank of water above you - perhaps having to lay on your back on the ground under the rig.

Assuming the above, the good news is that the pipe can probably be removed and replaced with either a male-threaded brass or good PVC ball valve. A hose dangling from there would be optional...

If the NoBo underbelly is sealed in, that could be the reason for this silliness, but you could cut a hole in the underbelly, and create a flap. Add some velcro to seal against the elements.

One other tip would be to include an elbow in the drain line to keep the ball valve horizontal if the tank drain is on the bottom. This will give additional ground clearance, and the vinyl hose can dangle from there through the sealed underbelly.

I use my air compressor to push air down the fill pipe of the fresh tank to help blow out residual water. I have a big compressor with lots of CFM, so it does a nice job. I use a rag or sponge around the blow gun to somewhat seal it in the gravity fill pipe. With the drain valve open, the tank doesn't really get pressurized and the poor seal around the blow gun ensure that, but it's very effective at purging that last little bit of water around the drain and drying out the drain valve enough so any ice that might form doesn't have the traction to crack anything.

Every rig needs more than a few mods like this to suit the user. There are LOTS of campers out there who never venture beyond the confines of an RV park with hookups.

Last thought. Fresh tanks are notorious for not being well-enough supported to "carry water" down the road...especially off road. Take a long, hard look at your fresh tank and how it's supported. One additional brace across the middle can make a world of difference, even on a 10 gallon tank. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon, so toting 90 pounds of water over the river and through the woods can be hard on a fresh tank. Mine is 20 gallons (plus 6 in the hot water heater) I supported mine with 1/2" galvanized water pipe, a piece of plywood, a rubber floor mat, and two clevis pins....on the very fortunate pipe loom brackets under my rig. Made all the difference. My tank bellied so much when full it would hang down another 2" or more. The brace prevents any sag. If you're lucky, yours is above the floor, but if not, and if you always travel full, this will need attention either before you have to replace it or after you replace it.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:16 PM   #14
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Nice work on the support, I will have to look into mine when the snow clears. I imagine extra support won't hurt. I may be able to tie that in with a skid plate. Thanks for the great suggestions.
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Old 12-23-2018, 03:43 AM   #15
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Nice work on the support, I will have to look into mine when the snow clears. I imagine extra support won't hurt. I may be able to tie that in with a skid plate. Thanks for the great suggestions.
Cut it short and if you need a vertical drop to prevent splash or clear belly of unit, add a piece of flexible. Clear or radiator hose.
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Old 03-24-2019, 11:40 AM   #16
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Hi Guys,

I just purchased a Nobo 10.6. I did the walk through yesterday but this was the first Nobo they ever sold. I felt like we were figuring out a lot of things together rather than a guided walk through.

One thing that I found really odd was the fresh water drain. It was a plastic pipe that hung down about 4-5 inches from the bottom of the unit. It had no protection and looks like it would get ripped off in about 5 min of any even mild off road activity. Any 6 inch rut would would destroy it.

My question is, does anybody else with a 10.6 have this? My hope is it was set up wrong. If this is correct, has anybody looked into making it more flush mount? Or skid plate?

I should have taken a picture as I won't pick it up till spring.
My observation is the same and will replace that rock catcher valve soon.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:45 PM   #17
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I had to cut the pipe away from the T-fitting with a dremel and will replacing it with a flexible tube with the original plug and tuck it back in out of the way.
Think'n there should be a skid plate supporting and protecting the tank and drain.
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