Propane line chewed

[Combolc]

I went out to check on my camper for our next trip. Check my propane and heard a hiss followed by smell of propane. So I turned it off and looked around to find 2 location in which my lines appeared to be chewed through. What do I do now ? One of the line is replacable from tank to quick disconnect. The other line runs length of the trailer and go to stove, fridge and heater. Assume I can cut the line and put a coupler ?

Is this normal? Any preventative measures?

[rsdata]

cut that out of the line, take to hardware store and purchase a brass or nylon tube coupler the right size and a couple of hose clamps...

mice will chew anything... around here the plastic caps on 5 gal gas cans get chewed... I am thinking squirrels do that but have never caught one in the act so it might also be mice

[Combolc]

Wow Thanks I didn't realize I thought maybe squirrel or rabbits . I take a trip out to store after cut that line and fix it up.

Anyone know preventative measures? I guess I could use braided line.

[KyDan]

Squirrels are a major culprit but could also be rodents. You can patch the line.
I'd use brass coupler like shown previously but I'd recommend 2 hose clamps per end just to be extra cautious.

Donno what to tell you about prevention-- maybe wrap the hoses in hardware cloth (wire mesh)?

You can get SS braided hoses for the tank ends. Just google "braided LP tank hose". Under the trailer would be costly so I'd go with wrapping with hardware cloth (wire mesh). Good luck. Post a follow up and let us know what you did.

[Combolc]

Originally Posted by KyDan

Squirrels are a major culprit but could also be rodents. You can patch the line.
I'd use brass coupler like shown previously but I'd recommend 2 hose clamps per end just to be extra cautious.

Donno what to tell you about prevention-- maybe wrap the hoses in hardware cloth (wire mesh)?

You can get SS braided hoses for the tank ends. Just google "braided LP tank hose". Under the trailer would be costly so I'd go with wrapping with hardware cloth (wire mesh). Good luck. Post a follow up and let us know what you did.

Thanks - I am going to just replace the entire line to be safe. I dont think I am going to put hose clamps on propane line since it is the main line for the camper.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Combolc

Thanks - I am going to just replace the entire line to be safe. I dont think I am going to put hose clamps on propane line since it is the main line for the camper.

Good idea. Gas lines aren't something to use hose clamps on.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by Combolc

Thanks - I am going to just replace the entire line to be safe. I dont think I am going to put hose clamps on propane line since it is the main line for the camper.

That's fine and the safest way.
FYI since you are down stream of the regulator the pressure is measured in Ounces per square inch. IE down stream pressure is approx .4 PSI. That's point 4 psi. So it doesn't take a massive hose clamp to hold it on a properly sized hose barb.

The average human can blow thru a straw at around 1.3 psi or roughly 3 times the pressure in your down stream LP hose.
Just sayin...

[Combolc]

Originally Posted by KyDan

That's fine and the safest way.
FYI since you are down stream of the regulator the pressure is measured in Ounces per square inch. IE down stream pressure is approx .4 PSI. That's point 4 psi. So it doesn't take a massive hose clamp to hold it on a properly sized hose barb.

The average human can blow thru a straw at around 1.3 psi or roughly 3 times the pressure in your down stream LP hose.
Just sayin...

Well that is a good point - I was actually just trying to research this a little to understand the pressure, diameter of hose and fittings.

[rsdata]

FYI since you are down stream of the regulator the pressure is measured in Ounces per square inch. IE down stream pressure is approx .4 PSI. That's point 4 psi. So it doesn't take a massive hose clamp to hold it on a properly sized hose barb.

agree with above

propane hose is just not ordinary rubber hose, as propane will dissolve the rubber and gum up your burners in time, which makes the good propane hose rather expensive... as I recall my trailer rubber hose turns into copper tube under the camper and is not rubber line all the way to the end.

I suggested the barbed coupler and still suggest that as an appropriate fix.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Combolc

Thanks - I am going to just replace the entire line to be safe. I dont think I am going to put hose clamps on propane line since it is the main line for the camper.

So far I'm lucky with my last TT. An earlier one had squirrels chew through the lines.

If it does happen to me I'll replace the main line from just below the regulator to the distribution manifold above the rear axle with black iron pipe. My old TT had pipe along the underside of he trailer and the only place the rodents could attack was at the short pigtails. Since they're under the tank cover it's just a matter of screening off the holes in the tank support tray with some stainless steel screen.

I believe the pipe on my old TT was 3/8" black iron which should handle the demand of stove with all burners and oven running as well as furnace and water heater. I know that 1/2" black pipe will handle the max capacity of my regulator (235 kbtu's/hr) with ease so that's what i'll use.

[Scrapper]

I have pretty much the same problem with the gas hose on my tt. The difference is the hose has a rupture where it bends when the kitchen slide extends / retracts. So, I need to cut out 3' of hose if I repair it. Where do I get a LP compatible 3/8" ID hose to splice in without buying one with the flair nut connectors?


I know the safest way is to replace the complete 18' x 3/8" ID hose but I will have to remove the fridge and cook top/oven just to run the hose to the inside connection.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

I have pretty much the same problem with the gas hose on my tt. The difference is the hose has a rupture where it bends when the kitchen slide extends / retracts. So, I need to cut out 3' of hose if I repair it. Where do I get a LP compatible 3/8" ID hose to splice in without buying one with the flair nut connectors?


I know the safest way is to replace the complete 18' x 3/8" ID hose but I will have to remove the fridge and cook top/oven just to run the hose to the inside connection.

If you have a nearby propane distributor check with them. I had a nearby one make me a hose to connect 100# tanks to my old TT and they had rolls of it in their shop. Tell them how long you want it and they'll just cut it off and leave off the fittings.

[Combolc]

Originally Posted by rsdata

agree with above

propane hose is just not ordinary rubber hose, as propane will dissolve the rubber and gum up your burners in time, which makes the good propane hose rather expensive... as I recall my trailer rubber hose turns into copper tube under the camper and is not rubber line all the way to the end.

I suggested the barbed coupler and still suggest that as an appropriate fix.

ok - I just not sure 100% and want to be safe as possible its the main hose and runs about 14 ft from front to middle. Completely exposed so doesnt seem like much of a hassle to replace.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Combolc

ok - I just not sure 100% and want to be safe as possible its the main hose and runs about 14 ft from front to middle. Completely exposed so doesnt seem like much of a hassle to replace.

Only extra work as I see it would be a 90 degree fitting so the "inlet" can be routed up and into the tank support plate (if desired) and connecting to the distribution point where the hose splits off to the different appliances.

Just take a comfy chaise lounge pad under the TT with you when doing the work

BTW, be sure you blow out whatever you use to replace the hose really well. You don't want any pieces of grit or metal particles left inside that end up plugging orifices.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If you have a nearby propane distributor check with them. I had a nearby one make me a hose to connect 100# tanks to my old TT and they had rolls of it in their shop. Tell them how long you want it and they'll just cut it off and leave off the fittings.

Thanks, Mike. I had thought of that but the last time I talked to the LP distributor 4 weeks ago, they were doing deliveries only, closed to walk-ins. I'll have to give them another call.

Here's a picture to give you an idea I'm dealing with. Green line is the 1/2" black iron gas pipe, red lines are the 3/8" ID LP hose where it's below the floor, yellow is where the 3/8" LP hose passes through the floor to inside the trailer.

The line by the entry door runs the furnace and water heater. The other behind the axles runs the fridge and stove. The 'S' bend, behind the axles is where the hose is leaking.

[Combolc]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Only extra work as I see it would be a 90 degree fitting so the "inlet" can be routed up and into the tank support plate (if desired) and connecting to the distribution point where the hose splits off to the different appliances.

Just take a comfy chaise lounge pad under the TT with you when doing the work

BTW, be sure you blow out whatever you use to replace the hose really well. You don't want any pieces of grit or metal particles left inside that end up plugging orifices.

This is what I have red arrow is distribution point and blue is from front going back. Do i use loctite 565 or is teflon take alright . Can i just use a standard propane hose or maybe braided stainless?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Combolc

This is what I have red arrow is distribution point and blue is from front going back. Do i use loctite 565 or is teflon take alright . Can i just use a standard propane hose or maybe braided stainless?

Use the teflon tape spec'd for gas lines. I think it has a yellowish color instead of pure white.

I'd just use standard propane hose. Perhaps you could call your LPG distributor and see if they'll take an order over the phone with a C/C and just deliver it to the door when you arrive

If memory serves me (and it's been shaky from time to time) propane hose has a perforated outer jacket. Just the very outer covering. Was told a long time ago this was to prevent any gas that permeates the inner parts of the hose (there's always SOME permeation but not much at a time) from forming blisters on the outer covering.

Normally you can see these small holes (pin pricks) but if you were to submerge it in water or apply a soap solution, not see any bubbles.

As for stainless steel wrapped, probably a lot more expensive. If he hose failed due to chafing I'd just split a piece of automotive heater hose, slip it around the propane hose where it chafes, and secure with a few wraps of electrical tape.

[Combolc]

Thanks for everyone help. I was able to get the hose clamped for a temporary repair and it worked fine. I still wanted to replace the hoses so I located a hydraulic repair shop who had premium propane cable 1/2 that has an aluminum layer between layers of rubber. Hopefully this will help but im sure nothing can stop the rodents. Total cost was 180$ for a 14ft and 2ft cable with all fittings made on spot.

back in business

[Combolc]

pic of the "premium" cable