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Old 10-10-2021, 04:29 PM   #1
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Question TS2380 Purpose of the Underbed Valves

Hello ForestRiver Folks, first, I have to say I am a Class C Newbie but I owned a small Class B for 19 years As winter is approaching in the North, I would need to clarify the purpose of the different valves that are showing up under the bed of the 2021 SunSeeker TS2380. The different valves are displayed in the two pictures I attached to this post. The picture showing only one valve is adjacent to the water pump.

I know one of those valves is used to drain the Truma Combi and another one is used as the Truma Combi bypass. I also know the Truma Combi cannot carry antifreeze during winter and should then be drained during the winterizing procedure.
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Old 10-10-2021, 05:38 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum. Those are the bypass valves and the drain valve for the Combi. The Yellow valve should be the Combi drain. The other valves should function just like on your Class B. You're correct the Combi should not have any antifreeze in the tank so definitely bypass before winterizing. The hose for adding antifreeze should be under the bed near the water pump along with the switch to allow it to pick up the antifreeze.

I've attached FR's winterization guide and a Service Location Guide showing where everything is located.
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Old 10-11-2021, 08:03 AM   #3
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welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered as you can see.
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Old 10-11-2021, 11:14 AM   #4
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Thanks Folks for the warmly felt welcome I should have registered to this forum much earlier and would have saved plenty of time ... I should have recalled that "the sum is always greater than the parts"

Many thanks @RedLdr1 for your detailed and super quick response. It's truly appreciated I will soon walk through the attached PDF.

I am a bit puzzled by the "blue" color of the pipe on which the yellow valve is attached. If that yellow valve is the Combi drain valve, I would have expected it to be "red"

To ensure the Combi is truly empty, the Truma Combi documentation strongly recommends to "measure" the quantity of water coming out of the Combi drain pipe. We should fill a bucket containing about 10 liters (about 2.6 US Gallons). On the TS2380, there are three drain pipes, right behind the left rear wheel (i.e.: blue, red and clear, as per the attached picture). My first bet would have been the red pipe but considering the yellow valve is attached to a blue pipe, I am just more confused As far as you know, from those three drain pipes, which one would be the Combi drain pipe?
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Old 10-11-2021, 05:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlamontagne View Post
I am a bit puzzled by the "blue" color of the pipe on which the yellow valve is attached. If that yellow valve is the Combi drain valve, I would have expected it to be "red"
Never bet on what color pipe, or wire, is being used. Whatever was handy is what was installed in my experience. The Yellow drain valve is the key in this case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlamontagne View Post
To ensure the Combi is truly empty, the Truma Combi documentation strongly recommends to "measure" the quantity of water coming out of the Combi drain pipe. We should fill a bucket containing about 10 liters (about 2.6 US Gallons). On the TS2380, there are three drain pipes, right behind the left rear wheel (i.e.: blue, red and clear, as per the attached picture). My first bet would have been the red pipe but considering the yellow valve is attached to a blue pipe, I am just more confused As far as you know, from those three drain pipes, which one would be the Combi drain pipe?
In the picture you attached the color code is probably correct. The Red and Blue lines have caps and are the low point drains. The clear line is my bet for the Combi. It changed color when it went through the Yellow valve in the floor. On the 2390 we had the Combi just dumped out the bottom of RV with no drain pipe. Right on a frame rail... In your case since the clear was run you should be good.

I used my air compressor to "help" the Combi drain on our 2390. With the Red and Blue low points closed, and all faucets closed, and Combi Yellow valve Open I ran about 30 PSI into the system through the fresh water connection. That cleared the Combi after about five minutes of spitting and hissing. With the compressor still on I then flipped the bypass valves on the Combi to isolate it. I left the Yellow valve open over the winter so any left over water could drip out.

Since we live in North Georgia I usually do not fill the lines with antifreeze. it doesn't normally get that cold here, at least for several days, to cause a hard freeze. So instead of filling the system with antifreeze I blow out the system and then pour some antifreeze in the sink, shower drain, toilet and a couple gallons in the black tank. I may give the antifreeze method a try this year if antifreeze is available.

So how do you like your TS2380? Hopefully ours will be here in the next couple of months. Probably just in time for me to winterize it after the PDI.
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Old 10-11-2021, 10:43 PM   #6
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Never bet on what color pipe, or wire, is being used. Whatever was handy is what was installed in my experience. The Yellow drain valve is the key in this case.
I got a good laugh with this one As a bare minimum, I would have expected coherent color patterns. I was too naive

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Originally Posted by RedLdr1 View Post
In the picture you attached the color code is probably correct. The Red and Blue lines have caps and are the low point drains. The clear line is my bet for the Combi. It changed color when it went through the Yellow valve in the floor. On the 2390 we had the Combi just dumped out the bottom of RV with no drain pipe. Right on a frame rail... In your case since the clear was run you should be good.
Another good laugh ... this is just crazy, Combi dumping out the bottom of the RV

After turning on the bypass, I will make a test to drain a few liters from the Combi while paying attention to the clear drain🤞🙏

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLdr1 View Post
I used my air compressor to "help" the Combi drain on our 2390. With the Red and Blue low points closed, and all faucets closed, and Combi Yellow valve Open I ran about 30 PSI into the system through the fresh water connection. That cleared the Combi after about five minutes of spitting and hissing. With the compressor still on I then flipped the bypass valves on the Combi to isolate it. I left the Yellow valve open over the winter so any left over water could drip out.
Thanks for the hint, I will purchase a compressor ASAP!

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Since we live in North Georgia I usually do not fill the lines with antifreeze. it doesn't normally get that cold here, at least for several days, to cause a hard freeze. So instead of filling the system with antifreeze I blow out the system and then pour some antifreeze in the sink, shower drain, toilet and a couple gallons in the black tank. I may give the antifreeze method a try this year if antifreeze is available.
In Montreal, antifreeze is NOT an option! ... but with the compressor, I will do both, air and then antifreeze.

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So how do you like your TS2380? Hopefully ours will be here in the next couple of months. Probably just in time for me to winterize it after the PDI.
This is a very interesting question that do NOT carry a simple answer.

Let's start with the PROs: The design/architecture of this coach is truly amazing. The systems are from good brands and of good quality. The amount of features is outstanding.

Let's look at our CONs: The RV's construction is unfortunately and still carrying questionable defects. I suspect this coach has never been quality controlled. We got far too many problems. Many on the finishing end, but more serious ones with the systems and the plumbing.

... just to give you a few bits:

  • Fresh water tank missing a "vent" and was emptying out while driving.
  • Norcold frig NOT working on 12v. Mobo's 12v lines were fried.
  • Coach floor got flooded the very first and last time I used the Black Tank Flush. A pipe was broken ... water was leaking out of the coach floor. Had to remove the water under the kitchen cabinets. Was a fun time
  • Kitchen window that needs to be replaced because it has been "twisted" (urethane expansion?) and the screen does not hold ... but so far, it is still water proof🤞🙏
  • Water permanently surrounding the water pump (a leak with a pipe).
In the interim, I fixed by myself many finishing issues with other screens and cabinets.

After more than 4 months (from May 14th), several issues are still not fixed ...
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:41 AM   #7
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Unfortunately it seems a lot of buyers are finding out Quality is not even a second thought. It wasn't great pre-Covid but now it is dismal in some cases. Stay on your dealer and document all issues in email so you can easily prove they were reported in the warranty period.

I have a 20+ page PDI checklist we'll use when our unit arrives. And we have an excellent local dealer who will address the issues in a timely manner. My dealer blocks off four hours for a tech to go through the PDI with us. The tech repairs issues on the spot when possible or orders necessary parts that day.

Are your windows the acrylic plastic or glass? We had the acrylic windows in our our TS2390 and once we figured them out, there was no documentation included , they were fine. Way too easy to scratch but other than that not bad.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:12 AM   #8
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Luckily, all the windows are made of glass


FYI: I attached a picture showing up the kitchen window problem ...
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Old 10-12-2021, 01:11 PM   #9
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That's just plain ridiculously poor workmanship.

If you aren't getting results with your local dealer KaryKatz from Forester / Sunseeker is on this forum. Contacting him might help move things along.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:36 PM   #10
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That's just plain ridiculously poor workmanship.
That's a pretty accurate statement

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If you aren't getting results with your local dealer KaryKatz from Forester / Sunseeker is on this forum. Contacting him might help move things along.
Many thanks for this "special member" reference and for the many other hints By the end of September, they supposedly fixed about 60% of the issues and they want to fix the rest by spring 2022 The service department, from that dealer, is overwhelmed. Too many RVs, too many problems. However, before doing any escalation moves, I first want to see if everything they supposedly fixed is really fixed

Just thinking about the Black Tank Flush is scaring

NOTE: I have other questions but relating to different subjects (ex: 12v relay box behaves strangely, refrigerator only working on 12v when engine is running ... etc) and I am questioning if I should NOT create new separate threads for those. Any thought?
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:34 PM   #11
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That's a pretty accurate statement

Many thanks for this "special member" reference and for the many other hints By the end of September, they supposedly fixed about 60% of the issues and they want to fix the rest by spring 2022 The service department, from that dealer, is overwhelmed. Too many RVs, too many problems. However, before doing any escalation moves, I first want to see if everything they supposedly fixed is really fixed
Just thinking about the Black Tank Flush is scaring
I'd make sure to have it in writing that all of items reported while under warranty will be repaired under the warranty at no cost. The last thing you need is to be told your warranty is up and the repairs are on you. That has been reported by other members here.

Definitely create new threads for the other issues.

Also it is helpful if you create a Signature with your RV info. To do so:

Click on User CP (Control Panel)
Under Settings and Options click on Edit Signature
Add your Model Year, Make, and Model and any other info you want to share.
Click on Save Signature. Then just Exit the CP.

Having your RV info visible makes it easier for folks to respond to your questions. For specific issues, like the refrigerator, adding the Model Number makes it a lot easier to get a helpful response...
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:56 PM   #12
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I will make sure the dealer remains accountable for the warranty and against any delays I already discussed this subject with them and they told me they can get "warranty extensions" from Forest River, whenever there is a need to do so!? ... it remains to be verified

I will create interesting new threads ASAP
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Old 10-17-2021, 08:21 PM   #13
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I will make sure the dealer remains accountable for the warranty and against any delays I already discussed this subject with them and they told me they can get "warranty extensions" from Forest River, whenever there is a need to do so!? ... it remains to be verified

I will create interesting new threads ASAP
Having RedLdr1 and KaryKatz on your team is the biggest and best advantage you’ll have here……even if it pains me to say that.

Just make sure to provide the details you can, and because you already know how…..include any photos when you can.

Teamwork is here on the forums.
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