Access water lines

[Preston]

I have a FR Salem 27 RSSl. I have water to the bathroom sink and show, no water to the toilet or to the kitchen sink. Ie the water access in the bedroom? Where do I cut the floor to get access to the water lines? I am guessing calcium carbonate has clogged up the hot and cold water lines?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Preston

I have a FR Salem 27 RSSl. I have water to the bathroom sink and show, no water to the toilet or to the kitchen sink. Ie the water access in the bedroom? Where do I cut the floor to get access to the water lines? I am guessing calcium carbonate has clogged up the hot and cold water lines?

I can't find any such Salem model number. Are you sure 27 RSSI is correct?
There is a Salem 27 RLSS though.

[JRHERE]

Have you considered back flushing with compressed air?
Maybe start with the non-productive pottie?
Locate the the water pump and disconnect the house supply side from the pump (pump outlet). Open any low-point water drains also. Remove the drain plug in the hot water heater.
Obviously, the pottie flush will not affect the water heater, but if this process clears the pottie supply, then move on to the next non-functioning supply and flush from faucet to the disconnected pump line.
As long as the pump, fresh tank, and HWH is not pressurized, limited air pressure isn't going to damage the system. Start with about 50 lbs and see what happens.
Might work. Might want to place a bucket beneath the disconnected pump outlet line. Could get nasty.
Might be calcium or mud.
There's a check valve in the city water fill, so unless you can access and disconnect the city water fitting, nothing will return at that location. The pump hose will allow whatever to escape. Depending in how mobile the offending substance might be.
All the hot and cold lines originate at the pump and HWH.
The low point drains may help isolate the area of supply lines that are causing the blockage. If they exhaust air, the problem is between there and the next open line upstream. If a drain freely exhausts air, close it and try again. Once air exhausts at the pump supply line, should work.
Your HWH bypass valves are position correctly? They would not relate to the pottie fault.
Good luck!

[Preston]

It's a 2014 salem RLSS. I'm hooked up to city water. I've never used the pump, I have always been on city water. It worked before I moved and that was on city water. I don't have a blow out plug. I asked an rv repair place, and they said calcium has probably built up in the lines. My water heater is now full of white powder. I'm using buckets of water to flush the toilet and wash dishes. I'm lost I don't know what to do.

[JRHERE]

If you cannot blow out the lines, IMHO, try to for a dead reckoning by measuring various locations from under the coach and run new, appropriate, pex lines. Use color codes to avoid mixing hot and cold.
Opening the under side will gain access to your problem. Look for kinks if you have pex. ABS and poly don't easily kink.
Hard to understand losing both hot and cold water in locations such as the kitchen sink? You might be able to fish pex into the kitchen area and not cut into anything.
May be able to fish a wire thru the pipe? Probably not...but?
If your pottie is adjacent to a functioning bath sink, you could "T" off the cold water supply and supply the pottie.
I need to reread your original post. There are workarounds. Cutting into the interior floor would be last on my list.
If you cut or "T" into any lines, be sure to cap stub ends off. They might start leaking.

[JRHERE]

Also, check the flush valve on the commode. If water is at the adjacent sink, the pottie taps off nearby. Maybe beneath the bath sink base or shower cold water? Remove the panels below the sink and see what you might find.
Look for under shower base access...for connections.

[Preston]

The water lines come in under the bathroom sink. The shower hot and cold water go to the shower, left facing sink
The line continues into the floor and appears to make a sharp turn headed towards the bedroom, 280 degrees from the shower. The toilet tees off the cold water line. Also the water lines may be on top of the black tank. From underneath it looks like it goes between the floor and subfloor.

[JRHERE]

Check your commode flush valve. You likely have pressure there.
If not, fish a line from the pottie to beneath the sink. Tap cold water. Or try pushing air, or a clean out tape thru the line. Be sure to depressurize and open the water system if you try air.
Perhaps use the existing line to pull a new line thru if necessary.
The kitchen is curious. Your hot water heater is near the front door. Should be able to see the route to the kitch sink from the HWH access panel (bypass diverter valves are located there and I'd check that those valves are correctly positioned) as your bath cold water might be fed upstream from the kitchen. Find the water pump you'll know. Kitvh sink lines probably run straight down beneath the range and counters.
Rattle the lines beneath the kitch sink base while someone observes from the hot water heater end and see if anything moves.
Draw a mental picture of where the lines you can see lead. Then fill in the blanks. The water pump is the the terminus for cold water. Hot water heater is origin for all hot water.
Listen for the pump running. That is where the cold water distribution begins. City water "Tees" into the pump outlet line.
Make sure there's clear water in your fresh tank if you run te pump. It could inject whatever is in your fresh tank into your clean system.

[Preston]

I thought you don't need a pump on city water. It worked when I got here. I can't find access to the water lines inside the rv. Is there a second pump. The only one I see is under the kitchen sink. I've always used city water and have never used the pump.im broke and I have been without water for 7 days. I'm getting desperate.

[Preston]

I disconnected the water under the sink. I turned on the water and have water in bathroom sink, but nothing else. The line is disconnected but no water flows through.??

[JRHERE]

You are correct in that you don't need a pump when on city water. And there is not a 2nd pump.
Was your trailer winterized last winter? If so, the hot water heater might have a bypass system that is improperly positioned.
The water pump, even though not used, is where the lines converge.
Do you have hot water in the bathroom?
You cannot visualize most of the plumbing. Once a specific problem is noted, do a work around.
Sounds like you need a local to assist with the water system?
Best

[Preston]

Called a mobile tech. He said pour lime away or clr in hose and hook it up. Let it run about 3 hours. Problem solved.

[tinkerreknit]

This has been a strange problem and fix. Perhaps it's time to invest in a good water filter system.

[JRHERE]

Originally Posted by Preston

Called a mobile tech. He said pour lime away or clr in hose and hook it up. Let it run about 3 hours. Problem solved.

Are you saying the lines are now cleared?
Suggest bypassing hot water heater if injecting CLR into your fresh supply.