F-150 PowerBoost towing a 33' Hemisphere 26BHHL ?

[moose074]

For the OP the following is a long thread but honest assessment of owning and towing a TT with 4 different trucks TT info is in picture below. When the family decided time to buy a trailer my only truck was an 84 gmc short wide body I had just done a mechanical overhaul on. It was my daily driver. I had a trade but it was in horrible condition. I was able to make a trade for a new 2011 Ram 2500 Cummins then we bought out TT a little larger than yours.
Power was never an issue but trl was constantly bouncing between the lines of the road any time I drove over 65 or wind was blowing over 15. I bought an equalizer 4point WDH problem solved I towed straight as an arrow.
Vehicle 2 a 2014 Toyota Tundra Limited crew-cab payload was around 1200. I bought it new in May ( impulse purchase) with a trip planned in June to Oregon Lake Tahoe Grand Canyon Hoover damn. I spent a couple of days before the trip just trying to get the break in miles before towing. I adjusted the weight distribution the day before we left but wasn’t happy with it. So in the camp ground next morning redid it. Way better truck and trailer worked great together never a problem. I towed about 10k total with this set up adding timbren or Sumo airless airbags Everything worked great ( really just an extended bump stop with progressive cushioning) Since you replace the old bumb stops might consume 5 pounds max of your payload.
Vehicle 3 2014 F 150 Platinum 4x4 with the 3:55 rear again another impulse buy I just knew I needed the 4x4 and the 36 gallon tank. Bought it in the middle of a vacation December 31 of 2016. Spent the next day in an unexpected snow storm redialing in the WDH as the suspicion was way softer on the new to me Ford. Again my first addition to the truck was either Timbrens or Sumos to help with the squat. I only towed about 4-5k miles with this setup as the wife decided she wanted a larger trailer most likely a 5th wheel.
Vehicle 4 2016 F350 CC 8’ bed power stroke SWD bought June 2017. First time I towed the our TT I got maybe 20 - 30 miles down the road I had to pull over and put the bars on the WDH, as the trl was bouncing between the lines. I only towed the took two trips with that combo during my second trip. The wife found the 5th wheel she wanted we made the trade and I left the trl there.

All trucks performed great with the WDH all trucks need it.
I would most likely have no issue towing your combo, but I couldn’t say for sure until I did. You can go to almost any truck forum see people towing what others would call crazy and have no issues or white knuckle experience. However at the end of the day that is a subjective feeling and one you have to experience. As others have stated you don’t want to be stressed when towing. I wasn’t others would have been. Enjoy

[Snooker_ML]

Originally Posted by moose074

I am not sure I understand your reasoning when I had a Ram 3500 DWD 4x4 Laramie with the Cummins. Based on reading because I never weighed the truck with out the trl my truck should have weighed between 9- 10k my Wildcat 383MB has listed dry weight of 12k my scale ticket had me right around 24k so if I take 10k for truck weight at a minimum my trl was 4k heavier

I currently own a 2019 F 250 Sxt 4x4 cc short bed with the 6.2 I am going to guess based off of readings my truck weighs 7k again I have never weighed my mt truck. My new never been to scale Columbus 329 dvc has a dry weight of 12k. It is 5k heavier before anything is loaded.
Op says dry weight of his trl is 6700 pounds only 1k over his listed curb weight. However I did some looking here is an alleged weight ticket of something close to his truck followed by a 3/4 ton truck. What size weight advantage does he really gain .Attachment 283645Attachment 283646

Here's my answer, based on your numbers. If you focus only on the gross weight and towing capacity then the huge advantage of a bigger truck are not clear. My actual completely empty Powerboost weighed 5800#, a spec sheet for the F250 for curb weight is probably Minimum, not actual, and says 6462# - lets say it is 6800# actual, that is 1000# heavier. Gross weight is important and is a big difference right there. But only part of the answer...

What is clear to me from your 2 images however is that the rear axle GAWR comparison is a huge difference.

My Powerboost is spec'd at 4150# GAWR Rear, and the F250 you posted is 6340# GAWR, that is a huge 2300# difference! The Payload spec between the two should be much different as well, due to this (along with the front axle being higher).

I'm guessing most people don't look into the Payload and GAWR to see if they are overloading their truck, regardless of how it tows. I AM looking into it, but I started too late in my decision process so now I'm doing it after the fact to see if I am violating any capacities. If it is bad I have to decide what to do, but it's marginal. I'm finding out on paper I'm at the threshold, and in reality from experienced drivers there is no way most or the responders would even try what I am trying.

But yes there is a huge difference between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton. You kinda poked the bear here with this question, and I'm sure all you 3/4 truck guys will now want to post how heavy your 3/4 is. Please don't. I'd like to keep this thread on point, partly because others will read it later to help with the same questions I am having. We don't need another thread too long to read, cluttered with a bunch of weight comparisons of 1/2 to 3/4. Thank you.

[Snooker_ML]

Originally Posted by moose074

For the OP the following is a long thread but honest assessment of owning and towing a TT with 4 different trucks TT info is in picture below. When the family decided time to buy a trailer my only truck was an 84 gmc short wide body I had just done a mechanical overhaul on. It was my daily driver. I had a trade but it was in horrible condition. I was able to make a trade for a new 2011 Ram 2500 Cummins then we bought out TT a little larger than yours.
Power was never an issue but trl was constantly bouncing between the lines of the road any time I drove over 65 or wind was blowing over 15. I bought an equalizer 4point WDH problem solved I towed straight as an arrow.
Vehicle 2 a 2014 Toyota Tundra Limited crew-cab payload was around 1200. I bought it new in May ( impulse purchase) with a trip planned in June to Oregon Lake Tahoe Grand Canyon Hoover damn. I spent a couple of days before the trip just trying to get the break in miles before towing. I adjusted the weight distribution the day before we left but wasn’t happy with it. So in the camp ground next morning redid it. Way better truck and trailer worked great together never a problem. I towed about 10k total with this set up adding timbren or Sumo airless airbags Everything worked great ( really just an extended bump stop with progressive cushioning) Since you replace the old bumb stops might consume 5 pounds max of your payload.
Vehicle 3 2014 F 150 Platinum 4x4 with the 3:55 rear again another impulse buy I just knew I needed the 4x4 and the 36 gallon tank. Bought it in the middle of a vacation December 31 of 2016. Spent the next day in an unexpected snow storm redialing in the WDH as the suspicion was way softer on the new to me Ford. Again my first addition to the truck was either Timbrens or Sumos to help with the squat. I only towed about 4-5k miles with this setup as the wife decided she wanted a larger trailer most likely a 5th wheel.
Vehicle 4 2016 F350 CC 8’ bed power stroke SWD bought June 2017. First time I towed the our TT I got maybe 20 - 30 miles down the road I had to pull over and put the bars on the WDH, as the trl was bouncing between the lines. I only towed the took two trips with that combo during my second trip. The wife found the 5th wheel she wanted we made the trade and I left the trl there.

All trucks performed great with the WDH all trucks need it.
I would most likely have no issue towing your combo, but I couldn’t say for sure until I did. You can go to almost any truck forum see people towing what others would call crazy and have no issues or white knuckle experience. However at the end of the day that is a subjective feeling and one you have to experience. As others have stated you don’t want to be stressed when towing. I wasn’t others would have been. Enjoy Attachment 283647

Appreciate your thoughts. When I read it, I see "once I put on the WDH then everything seemed fine!" and "you have to try it and see your experience and if it is too stressful for YOU".

This is what gives me hope. However, the next level is actually measuring weights and comparing to truck capacities. I firmly believe I have tried this on paper and I won't know real numbers until I hook it all up and go to a CAT scale. Even then, just not exceeding capacities does not mean it will be as safe as possible, it won't. Will it be "safe"? Nobody knows, its all margins on paper. Would it be too stressful and feel too unstable in actual use. I am willing to try it out and see. I'm too far down the road not to try it because on paper my capacities look under or very close.

I also just saw the trailer in the PDI process at the dealer and the two 20# propane bottles were on the tongue from the factory (so there's another 35# right there!)

[Snooker_ML]

To make this thread more complete, here are the actual 2 CAT scale readings for my actual Powerboost. Both are full tank of gas. One is completely empty, no people or gear, empty bed, right off the lot, actual Curb Weight. The other is the same except with a 240# driver in driver's seat.

Besides using this to check my actual axle loads, it also shows the effect of adding weight in the cab seats. It makes sense, a 240# driver added 140# to the front axle and 100# to the rear, since the position is much closer to the front axle.

The weird thing is there was no trailer on the trailer scale but it recorded a measurement there, which it added to the Gross weight. I subtracted it off. I am posting another thread about CAT scale readings, if this is common, uncommon, shows it needs calibration, or if it is frozen.. I expect some error but did the operator just not zero it out or do they not have control, whatever. That is not the point here.

[Snooker_ML]

Imagine a world where there is a truck you can buy to tow your trailer that has a 240 volt, 30 amp service built in (7.2kW).

Imagine you can just plug in your RV and tell it to only idle the engine when it needs to recharge its power storage battery. How you could power your RV off the grid this way for several DAYS, including AC and uWave.

Imagine if you are on a construction site and can power your welder or chop saws or whatever!!!

Imagine this truck has even more torque from a dead stop than any other truck you have ever seen, yet it will fit into your garage. The Torque curve below was taken from a Ford kiosk at my dealer - it says it ALL.
A whopping 450 lb-ft of torque at IDLE rpm (actually with ICE engine not even running technically)!

You don't have to imagine it anymore. The F150 PowerBoost HYBRID is real. It is NOT available in the Ford 3/4 ton. THIS IS WHY I WANT IT !

I want to make that clear - all of you saying "well we all told you what to do but you aren't listening!". Well no, there is a valid reason why I WANT THIS TRUCK! Not yelling just emphasizing.

Try to be a little understanding as to why, (if I don't exceed capacities then I want to set up the WFH and whatever else (Roadmaster RAS) to help)... WHY I want to try and make it work). Then we'll see how it goes! I seriously doubt that many of you have been faced with this choice before. But having not owned a truck for 40 years and now looking at one, it is amazing what is available, so i have to at least give it a try.

I will keep you updated in the next couple of months. I may need a custom trailer that doesn't exist



YouTube of 101 degree day, truck only no RV, keep AC on in truck yet the engine may only need to be on for a 5% duty cycle, meaning 5 minutes every hour.

YouTube of Powerboost powering AC on 2 RV's simultaneously.

[moose074]

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

Here's my answer, based on your numbers. If you focus only on the gross weight and towing capacity then the huge advantage of a bigger truck are not clear. My actual completely empty Powerboost weighed 5800#, a spec sheet for the F250 for curb weight is probably Minimum, not actual, and says 6462# - lets say it is 6800# actual, that is 1000# heavier. Gross weight is important and is a big difference right there. But only part of the answer...



What is clear to me from your 2 images however is that the rear axle GAWR comparison is a huge difference.



My Powerboost is spec'd at 4150# GAWR Rear, and the F250 you posted is 6340# GAWR, that is a huge 2300# difference! The Payload spec between the two should be much different as well, due to this (along with the front axle being higher).



I'm guessing most people don't look into the Payload and GAWR to see if they are overloading their truck, regardless of how it tows. I AM looking into it, but I started too late in my decision process so now I'm doing it after the fact to see if I am violating any capacities. If it is bad I have to decide what to do, but it's marginal. I'm finding out on paper I'm at the threshold, and in reality from experienced drivers there is no way most or the responders would even try what I am trying.



But yes there is a huge difference between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton. You kinda poked the bear here with this question, and I'm sure all you 3/4 truck guys will now want to post how heavy your 3/4 is. Please don't. I'd like to keep this thread on point, partly because others will read it later to help with the same questions I am having. We don't need another thread too long to read, cluttered with a bunch of weight comparisons of 1/2 to 3/4. Thank you.

I wasn’t questioning your reasoning or your weights. I am actually on your side as stated in another post. The I’m in your corner comes from experience having done it before. I was referring to the post that compared your setup to an “ Ant towing an elephant “ my point I attempted to make is 1/2 ton trucks aren’t as light as most make them appear to be. My truck has a listed dry weight of 6446 after seeing the weight ticket on the powerboost that I posted was heavier by quite a bit over what I saw listed. So it prompted me to go weigh my truck and get an actual weight. I needed gas so I filled it up rolled across the scales and bam almost 1k heavier than listed 7420 but subtract 265 for me it’s 7160 grill guard up front gonna guess 120ish so now 7020 random stuff in cab maybe 20 so 7000 I have two swinging toolboxes full of tools maybe 75 pounds running boards 25 6900 the big huge heavy B&W companion turn over ball I think 200 minimum for the whole contraption. So that gets me down to 6700ish. You most likely have more torque horsepower and pretty close to same brake pad surface area as me.

As for the majority telling you they wouldn’t tow your combo, I have read threads where people have bought 1/2 ton trucks with 2k payload were way under payload and towing capacity but to them it is still too much trl for the truck

[BigH]

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

Imagine a world where there is a truck you can buy to tow your trailer that has a 240 volt, 30 amp service built in (7.2kW).

Imagine you can just plug in your RV and tell it to only idle the engine when it needs to recharge its power storage battery. How you could power your RV off the grid this way for several DAYS, including AC and uWave.

Imagine if you are on a construction site and can power your welder or chop saws or whatever!!!

.

Hmm....to each their own but I would prefer to use my inexpensive generator than idle my truck's motor. Way more efficient...I can use propane or gas. It doesn't have any effect on the range for my tow vehicle and requires less fuel for 'days on end camping'.

[Snooker_ML]

Originally Posted by BigH

Hmm....to each their own but I would prefer to use my inexpensive generator than idle my truck's motor. Way more efficient...I can use propane or gas. It doesn't have any effect on the range for my tow vehicle and requires less fuel for 'days on end camping'.

Preferences are what's it's all about, however I don't think you are 100% correct on your reasons. If this sounds argumentative or defensive I don't intend it to be, and if I'm wrong let me know.

There are many factors. The hybrid idles at 800 rpm and I would bet it is much quieter than many generators I've camped next to (that run constantly when they are turned on, don't cycle), especially inexpensive ones. Powerboost is less Efficient? No way, the truck motor turns itself off and on, it's not constantly running, just awhile to recharge the hybrid battery, and efficiency is designed in.

Propane or gas, always good to have choices sure. But you cannot say it is easier to fill the propane tank than a truck's gas tank. You can tell the PowerBoost system how much gas to leave in the tank, and it really does last for days if needed. I agree I'd rather burn out a cheap generator vs. put wear on my truck motor, but I never said days on end, so if you are then that might be a valid reason IMHO. I'm a typical rare camper, not full timer and so it really isn't that much time and wear and hopefully it was designed for this anyhow. Remember the ICE is not running very often to keep the hybrid battery charged, depending.

It's a new world, myself I'm adapting. You don't have to, but in a way most people already have... there is already so much that you can't fix yourself in the new high tech electronics-heavy trucks, that unless you are towing with your 70's pickup you can't fix it anyhow. This is the next step, at least for me.

Portable generator doesn't affect tow range you say, well sure, but however much gas you need to carry in gas cans I just carry in the gas tank. If you fill up before you go to camp it seems like a draw. If I am going so far off the grid and running the generator for days, then even with a full tank of gas yeah I'd have to carry extra gas cans like you would have to for your generator. I think this situation is rare for me. So I am not forced to carry extra gas cans and deal with all of that.

I just wanted you guys to know where I was coming from. In the end, it is the PowerBoost itself that is making me lose 340# of Tow Capacity, that is it's big downfall and the main reason I started this thread in the first place. It is a real issue.

Here is an Interview with a Ford PowerBoost designer for more details on it.

[{Tpc}]

To the OP, I had typed up a lengthy reply, but it was on my phone and somehow it never made it. This one will be shorter.

I feel your pain in trying to justify what you want in the truck, and being able to use it for this purpose. Both items are expensive, but the truck more so, and you will spend more time in the truck for sure.

I can't imagine that you won't have problems with tongue weight and payload. I can't remember what ford uses in their calculations. I feel like they accommodate for 150lb driver and a full tank of gas. So lets go with that.

1489 - 90 (240lb driver minus 150 accommodation) - 200 (propride hitch) = 1199 left. subtract 50 for incidentals that puts you at 1149. subtract the wife (ill let you do the math or not lol, mine wont tell me either haha).

Lets say thats 1000 lbs left. Now if you get a drop in bed liner subtract some more weight (unless it was installed prior to the weigh in at the factory, im not sure if they are or not). Like those real nice hard tonneau covers or a cap, there goes some more.

Lets say you end up at 12% TW off the dry weight, which i think all agree is a fictional number. Thats 804 off your 1000 lbs. So thats 196 left. Once you start to fill your nice texas sized passthrough with chairs, tables, other stuff, and you load your bedroom with clothes...well you will see how quickly that disappears.

All that said, its not impossible to make work if you want to fit within the numbers. But you are going to end up loading things a lot different so you can tow that way, only to change it up after you arrive. Be mindful to buy lightweight things, and not to overload.

When I first got my trailer, I moved stuff over from my last trailer which was much lighter, shorter and weighed 5k on the scales. My sherline tw scale put it at 675 the last i checked loaded, before we sold it. After about 2 trips, I got the sherline out to check the new one and was amazed to see 1125 lbs. I made changes to what I bring, got rid of some heavy stuff for lightweight stuff, and managed to get that number down to around 925 lbs.

Guess what? Tows better now. But throw the wife in the cab, move all the laundry and clothing and food and other stuff out of the trailer into the back of the truck for the trip home, bring some of that leftover campfire wood back, and I'm damn near hitting payload, and I have 400 lbs more available payload than you have!

So trust me, it adds up fast, I know how fast first hand, no one can explain it away because its simple numbers.

My biggest concern would be sway, because I feel like that truck is too short for that long a trailer. My personal feeling is that I wouldn't go over 31 ft in trailer length (which is how long mine is). But the propride hitch should help. Power won't be an issue because the ecoboost engine power comes on so soon you don't feel like your ever pushing the truck.

The numbers game though, your gonna have to play with it, if you want it to fit. FWIW, I have a 2020 25RBHL and 2022 F150 3.5EB Maxtow, so I have a pretty good reference for what I have said.

Lol still a long post. oof.

[bikendan]

Ford towing capacity-full fuel tank and 150lb driver included

Ford payload capacity-full fuel tank ONLY included. Driver is considered as one of the Occupants and their weight goes against payload.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

Preferences are what's it's all about, however I don't think you are 100% correct on your reasons. If this sounds argumentative or defensive I don't intend it to be, and if I'm wrong let me know.

There are many factors. The hybrid idles at 800 rpm and I would bet it is much quieter than many generators I've camped next to (that run constantly when they are turned on, don't cycle), especially inexpensive ones. Powerboost is less Efficient? No way, the truck motor turns itself off and on, it's not constantly running, just awhile to recharge the hybrid battery, and efficiency is designed in.

Power being used has to be generated (wattage is wattage) and if you think a 3.5liter motor is as efficient as a 192cc making the same amount of watts...

Try running the air conditioner all night on 1.5 gallons of gas.

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

Propane or gas, always good to have choices sure. But you cannot say it is easier to fill the propane tank than a truck's gas tank. You can tell the PowerBoost system how much gas to leave in the tank, and it really does last for days if needed. I agree I'd rather burn out a cheap generator vs. put wear on my truck motor, but I never said days on end, so if you are then that might be a valid reason IMHO. I'm a typical rare camper, not full timer and so it really isn't that much time and wear and hopefully it was designed for this anyhow. Remember the ICE is not running very often to keep the hybrid battery charged, depending.

It's a new world, myself I'm adapting. You don't have to, but in a way most people already have... there is already so much that you can't fix yourself in the new high tech electronics-heavy trucks, that unless you are towing with your 70's pickup you can't fix it anyhow. This is the next step, at least for me.

Portable generator doesn't affect tow range you say, well sure, but however much gas you need to carry in gas cans I just carry in the gas tank. If you fill up before you go to camp it seems like a draw. If I am going so far off the grid and running the generator for days, then even with a full tank of gas yeah I'd have to carry extra gas cans like you would have to for your generator. I think this situation is rare for me. So I am not forced to carry extra gas cans and deal with all of that.

There is nothing to adapt too. A portable generator performs flawlessly and only cost a fraction of what the powerboost cost.

My camper has a 30-gallon fueling station. I always carry an extra propane tank or two and I don't fill them. Fueling the generator is a non-issue.

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

I just wanted you guys to know where I was coming from. In the end, it is the PowerBoost itself that is making me lose 340# of Tow Capacity, that is it's big downfall and the main reason I started this thread in the first place. It is a real issue.

Here is an Interview with a Ford PowerBoost designer for more details on it.

I'm glad you're happy with your perceived adaptation but I don't see any advantage.

[5er_tom]

Can’t we end this thread? It is all about the OP and most of us think what he wants to tow is unsafe.

[Offspring22]

So I got the same trailer (but a 2021). Absolutely LOVE the trailer. Fantastic layout. Had a couple issues with it, but were fixed under warranty. As for weight....

I have a 17' Sierra 6.2 with max tow. Rated for 11,800lbs and a cargo capacity of 1850lbs. Tow's great. Never felt under powered or unsafe. I hit some scales on the way home from a trip once. Front axle was 340lbs under capacity, and rear axle was a mere 70lbs under capacity lol. But add the 2 together and I was about 250lbs over my GVWR of 7600 lbs. This was dry and on the way home from a trip, so no water, tanks empty, not much for food and beer all drank etc. I also have 2 kids and 2 dogs, so probably more weight in the truck than you'd carry, and more extra gear/toys, etc.

May want to ask them if you can take it for a test tow, maybe hit a scale. I kept towing for another year after that, though we have it parked on a permanent site now. Was thinking about a bigger truck before that, though. So may feel ok, but you're probably going to be over some of your weight ratings. Depends how you feel about that.

[RackOnInNC]

I towed a trailer that was ~1 ft shorter and ~800 lbs lighter with my F150 Ecoboost (first a 2012 then a 2018) for 5 years. (I listened to the Dealer who said i was good). I was using an Equalizer WDH. Basically I was right on the hairy edge. I am a patient driver, so didn't get too fast which helped. I pulled up and down the Appalachian mountains via both I-40 and I-77 headed to KY from NC numerous times. No problems up or down and the Ecoboost engine braking is excellent as reported. Did I have some white knuckle moments? Yep! Was I comfortable driving? Most of time, but it required vigilance. Would I do it again? NO!

I now have a 22', much lighter trailer that the truck doesn't even know is back there and the difference is night and day. Relaxed easy driving, without worry even in rain, wind, and heavy traffic.

Can you do it? Maybe. Should you do it? Probably not. Will you enjoy the drive? NO. No matter how well equipped you are that's a BIG, LONG TAIL back there wagging the dog and it will require a lot of physical and mental energy to drive it. Do yourself a favor and get the bigger truck or a smaller trailer. The F150 Ecoboost is a towing machine, but it's still a light-weight truck.

[Mr Towed]

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

I believe my setup, being a marginal 1/2 Ton, will not be able to set u the WDH perfectly and it will squat because it does not have HD springs and is right at its capacity. I don't know but that is what I think, that no matter how well I set the WDH, it WILL squat. I was also saying I'd like to fix this squat as much as possible, adjustable airbags/suspension/whatever. thanks.

You are proving here that you don’t grasp what a Weight Distributing Hitch does, at all.

[dog rv]

That's a huge sail behind a F-150. I love my 3.5 ecoboost, but no way I would tow that. Chassis can't handle it

[{Tpc}]

Originally Posted by Mr Towed

You are proving here that you don’t grasp what a Weight Distributing Hitch does, at all.

Actually, he might. I do have a grasp on this and my truck squats pretty good, even with the wdh. I have had it adjusted by the dealer, and I have adjusted it on my own. My adjustment was better haha.

Even after returning the front wheel well height to within specifications, either way (too high, too low), the rear of the truck still squats some.

It was worse prior to my own adjustment. So it’s not a perfect science. I actually think it’s harder to perfect the 4 pt systems with sway control built in, then the chain link systems with a friction bar style sway control. But that’s just my own experience.

[razzle408]

I would never do it. You would never be able to stop that rig if you had to slam on the brakes!

[Springerdad]

I have read through all of the posts in this thread.

I'm going to say this: WHY is it so many RVers want to tow SO much camper with SO little truck? What possesses them to want to run the ragged edge of capacity and safety?

Good grief.

[rlocicero]

Originally Posted by Snooker_ML

Another common question: can an F150 safely tow a 33'11" trailer? Actually an F150 PowerBoost in my case, which has slightly lower Payload specs.
But never fear, I have include ALL the details for my specific situation:

Trailer: Last week I bought a new 2022 Salem Hemisphere 26BHHL (last '22 on the lot). Trailer dry weight 6700. Overall length 33'9". $40k new. It does have the wide spread axle, not that I'm saying that makes much difference.
The 49 gallon freshwater tank is in the very back which I assume you could use to lighten the tongue weight as you fill it.
Tongue weight: I estimate the tongue weight could be kept to 900# (12% of 7500# with full water). My issue is wondering if the F150 can handle it.

Truck: I am seriously looking at a 2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost (Hybrid), 3.5L, 4x4, (short) 5.5' bed, the Lariat std equip 501A with Max Trailer Tow 53C. (no HD PP available anymore above the minimal XL trim, so no way to boost payload capacity from Ford).

Towing capacity is not an issue. As always the issue is how the tongue weight encroaches on the available payload, and the rear axle GAWR capacity spec itself. I've already decided I will install a $3k sway ELIMINATION hitch the 3P from ProPrideHitch.com, and I think this will eliminate the general fear of trailer induced sway.

Payload: The F150 spec for mine with best Max Tow option is 2100# max for Payload. However this is max so it is for a plain featureless best case for a stripped down XL, as you add options the actual sticker payload goes down. Mine has Payload of 1489# (and it has a sunroof, rear tailgate step, 7kw inverter, max tow, all of which drops the Payload down). It is on the lot, and they are rare, if I was ordering it I would drop the sunroof and tailgate which might give me another 150# or so, perhaps.

So: Available Payload is 1489#, not much. It is just the 2 of us (retired and not skinny) in the cab, and if I only assume another 50# of cab stuff I figure 500# of load, added to the tongue weight of 900# and you get 1400# so only 89 below capacity. Of course this is speculation and easy to let the tongue weight over that amount.

I figure I have the trailer induced sway (side wind, etc) issue controlled. Remaining is the overall downhill issue with a 9000# trailer pushing a 5000# truck down a hill. But I've heard the F150 does a pretty good job with sensing trailer loads and trailer braking, plus there is the manual trailer brake control on the dash.
What I should do is wait and get a better PowerBoost with fewer options just to give me some margin in the payload.

Axle: I hear it is common to overload your axle as nobody measures it up front. Well there is no max spec on an empty F150 rear axle as to its actual curb weight, only the GAWR sticker capacity, which is derated to 4150# on mine. I can't weigh the actual so I don't know how close it is (unless I talk the sales guy to go to a CAT scale before I buy it).

Ok that's the long of it. Any informed comments? I really do NOT want a bigger truck BTW.

Wouldn't recommend it. My 2014 supercrew with maxtow did a nice job on my 39 ft 7500# (estimate) tt. When they lightened up the truck by 800# it towed differently (sway issues). I bought a comparably equipped 2019 supercrew Sport option, ad to upgrade to 10 ply E rated tires and heavier sway bars.