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Old 09-23-2013, 03:34 PM   #1
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Galley tank, grey water tank. Uses

So I have had my new 32 bhds out twice and the galley tank fills rediculously fast, upon dumping I have realized the grey water tank is empty?????

What is supposed to be going to the great water tank. Surely not just the outdoor kitchen. it looks as though I can open bothe galley and grey water valves and let it back fill the other tank but that doesn't seem right to me. What say you campers?
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:54 PM   #2
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Gray water should be bathroom sink and shower.

How many sewer outlets do you have ?
How many pipes run to each outlet?
How many pull handles do you have?

You should have two gray tanks at 30 gallon for a total of 64 gallon including 6 gallon water heater, and one black @ 32 gallon and a fresh tank at 40 gallons



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Old 09-23-2013, 04:11 PM   #3
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My TT has 2 grey water tanks with separate outlets, each 30-gallons. I bought 2 new hoses and a Y fitting. I keep the galley tank open so it never fills, and the shower tank closed. When I get ready to leave I can dump the black and then the shower to clean it out. I have never stayed where there is no sewer connection. I just bought a 32-gallon tank on wheels so I can stay where there is no sewer... I'll probably let the galley water fill that and then let the TT tank fill before dumping both. Our galley always fills much faster than the shower/sink tank.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:08 PM   #4
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One galley tank, one black tank, one grey tank. One sewer outlet with bayonet connector. One large blade valve and two small blade valves. My plan for Tomorrow I am gonna open all the valves and put water in till it runs out the close valves to find which one controls it. And while we're are at it my crank up antenna get nothing in the way of channels. Booster is on with coax hooked to TV connector....?
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by wilem View Post
One galley tank, one black tank, one grey tank. One sewer outlet with bayonet connector. One large blade valve and two small blade valves. My plan for Tomorrow I am gonna open all the valves and put water in till it runs out the close valves to find which one controls it. And while we're are at it my crank up antenna get nothing in the way of channels. Booster is on with coax hooked to TV connector....?
If you have an android based phone get antenna helper free to help aim your antenna to the closest tower.


https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...nnahelper.free

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Old 09-23-2013, 11:05 PM   #6
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:05 PM   #7
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So after opening all the valves it is undeniably obvious the whole grey water tank is for the outdoor kitchen. ARE YPU SERIOUS FOREST RIVER? anyway guess ill use the galley tank till it is full and if necessary ill open both small valves and let them equalize. But that is gonna make dumping a bit messy
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:55 PM   #8
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So after opening all the valves it is undeniably obvious the whole grey water tank is for the outdoor kitchen. ARE YPU SERIOUS FOREST RIVER? anyway guess ill use the galley tank till it is full and if necessary ill open both small valves and let them equalize. But that is gonna make dumping a bit messy
My outside kitchen has its own tank as well.
Albeit I still have a galley tank and another gray tank for the bathroom.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:33 PM   #9
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So after opening all the valves it is undeniably obvious the whole grey water tank is for the outdoor kitchen. ARE YPU SERIOUS FOREST RIVER? anyway guess ill use the galley tank till it is full and if necessary ill open both small valves and let them equalize. But that is gonna make dumping a bit messy
Just get one of these twist on valves. I used it for equilizing my gray tanks. And it eliminates the mess from using a cap to do it.


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Sorry about all the other junk- the valve is in the middle with the clear connector
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:52 PM   #10
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Very good info, nice. This is exactly what I have found when googling equalizing tanks. I thought I would install a permanent valve but I like the removeable valve. Because I won't always need to balance tanks.



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Just get one of these twist on valves. I used it for equilizing my gray tanks. And it eliminates the mess from using a cap to do it.


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Sorry about all the other junk- the valve is in the middle with the clear connector
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #11
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Glad I could help
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:26 PM   #12
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soloution for galley tank being useless

after some tips here from some helpful members this is what i ended up with using to allow for grey water/galley water tank balancing. cheap and easy, no mess

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Old 10-18-2013, 06:21 PM   #13
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Good deal! I bet that will work perfect for that!
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:56 PM   #14
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Been missing your posts. I have the same TT as you and as you figured out that the rear tank is the outside kitchen only. Did the same thing as you on the external valve to equalize.
Our antenna didnt work either. Bought one of the Jack HD antenna and it didnt work either. But rabbit ears would. Took the antenna jack out of the wall where the booster is. Cables were reversed. Cable Tv on the booster side and the air antenna on the cable tv side. Guess mine may have not been a fluke after all.
Hope that all this helps
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:10 PM   #15
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AHHHHH, thanks for the tips. I will attack the TV tomorrow. also i plan to make a sink cover for added counter space out of 1/4 plexi-glass and a fold out table on the counter end.saw them in many TTs.

I made some slide out stabilizers today out of 26 inch turn buckles. and some 4 inch channel. they work really well and help make the camper more solid when parked. I noticed a .6 degree lean to the slide out side when out. I would get my camper level and then slide out and found myself running into the walls..LOL here is a picture of the stabilizers. which cost me 15 $ a piece to make. i removed the jam nut and added a 1-7/8 nut to the TB tube so a wrench could be used. however a wrench is not needed but makes adjusting them super easy. just don't over extend them and damage your slide out mechanism.
i used a hitch pin for tractor implements in place of one bolt that attaches the slide out to the winch device. hang the turnbuckle over the pin, install a lynch pin, then adjust the turn buckle to lift up just enough to remove the .6 deg lean. now the camper is much more solid under foot.

shorter TBs would be better by about -4 inches. but this is the only size close enough that i could find. you could even cut them in half and use a pipe with holes in them to provide more adjustment if so desired.



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Old 10-18-2013, 10:23 PM   #16
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Good deal! I bet that will work perfect for that!
it did indeed. what a relief it was too. thanks again. Now i also have a towable dump tank for my kid to drag around...
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:38 PM   #17
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Wilem - you do know the manufacturers recommend against slide supports. It's ok to support the camper frame just inside of the slide, but not the slide itself. The concern is that the camper will continue to move and wiggle (say as someone goes up the steps or the stabilizers settle), but the slide won't move with it and therefore cause friction where it isn't meant.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:14 AM   #18
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Wilem - you do know the manufacturers recommend against slide supports. It's ok to support the camper frame just inside of the slide, but not the slide itself. The concern is that the camper will continue to move and wiggle (say as someone goes up the steps or the stabilizers settle), but the slide won't move with it and therefore cause friction where it isn't meant.
I am glad that you share that info, I will have to research it some. But man if that is the case I need better stabilizers than the electric ones and I need to preload to .6 degrees up on the slide sides before opening them. Thank you for sharing, I don't want to over think it.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:33 AM   #19
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i could have sworn i read it in the manual that "if you plan on leaving the slides open for and extended period of time to support them with some means of a stabilizer" BUT MAYBE that was something i read on the package of stabilizers
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:09 AM   #20
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Wilem - you do know the manufacturers recommend against slide supports. It's ok to support the camper frame just inside of the slide, but not the slide itself. The concern is that the camper will continue to move and wiggle (say as someone goes up the steps or the stabilizers settle), but the slide won't move with it and therefore cause friction where it isn't meant.
He beat me to it. Just be aware that you can damage the slides if for some reason the TT settles more while parked. Or a tire goes flat during the night.
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