Salem cruise lite questions

[S037474]

Looking at the 201bhxl, love the lay out but have some concerns I am hoping you guys can help me out on. Live in Colorado, should I be concerned this is an aluminum trailer? What is the front and roof? They told me rubber, is that good or bad?

There is no black tank flush, is this a problem? Can I add it? How do I clean with out a flush?

Is wood framing OK vs Aluminum? Pros/cons? Thanks for any help!

[Chriswebb7570]

Good morning. New to the forums.
My wife and I just purchased a 2018 Salem Cruise Lite 197BH. We'll be picking it up in a few weeks. Very excited!

Two question for the forums:

1) Does anyone know the tire size and/or bolt pattern for this model?
2). Sewer hose is stored where? Our current RV has a plastic tube mounted under the tongue, but on this new model, I could not determine where the sewer hose gets stored.

Thanks everyone for your help.

[MarkDNC]

Just picked up our 171rbxl. The dealer added the black tank flush for $180 and an outside shower for $170.

The black tank flush seems to work great. Have not used the shower yet except at the walk through.

[moshe1436]

I wonder why there hasn't been a separate group forum for the Salem Cruise-Lite 241QBXL Travel Tailer? The floorplan and space in this unit are excellent and I think there must be more owners out there than just me and a couple of others who have posted. Just curious!!

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Chriswebb7570

Good morning. New to the forums.
My wife and I just purchased a 2018 Salem Cruise Lite 197BH. We'll be picking it up in a few weeks. Very excited!

Two question for the forums:

1) Does anyone know the tire size and/or bolt pattern for this model?
2). Sewer hose is stored where? Our current RV has a plastic tube mounted under the tongue, but on this new model, I could not determine where the sewer hose gets stored.

Thanks everyone for your help.

1) Tires size should be 205/75R15 C Ply, 5 bolt pattern. Contact the owner/dealer to verify.

2) Sewer hose is stored in the bumper. Remove the bumper cap at the end and slide it in. Camco's Rhinoflex is a good sewer hose. It is a tight fit at the end of the Rhinoflex hose but it will slide in 4" square bumpers. Your trailer's bumper should work.

We previously owned a 2016 Cruise Lite 195BH. Many similarities.

[Tonylmiller]

Originally Posted by S037474

Looking at the 201bhxl, love the lay out but have some concerns I am hoping you guys can help me out on. Live in Colorado, should I be concerned this is an aluminum trailer? What is the front and roof? They told me rubber, is that good or bad?

There is no black tank flush, is this a problem? Can I add it? How do I clean with out a flush?

Is wood framing OK vs Aluminum? Pros/cons? Thanks for any help!

I have a 2015 model. So far it has held up very well, except for the electric stabilizing jack switches.

My thought is, I bought this camper cheap. It may or may not last 30 years. I'm ok with that. As far as the construction, it is very light for a 30-foot camper so I hope they know what they are doing. We love the camper.

We just rinse out the black tank from the toilet side. Actually I drain it, refill it, drain it again, and then rinse it out. We have not had any problems at all.

Good luck, and happy camping!

[Retired1stTimer]

after searching almost 6 months online at dealerships all over Florida, and dozens of floor plans, my DW and I settled on the Salem Cruise Lite 171RBXL. the only small mod we did was add the memory foam topper to the queen mattress on the murphy bed. that did make it a tad harder to lift up and lock into place to use the sofa. but we love it. it has features on it that you wouldn't find on more expensive or larger models, the electric jack, the power awning, and electric stabilizers, so easy to use and operate. we did have a problem deciding on how big a television to install on the back wall. our 1st choice was too large, because finding a wall stud for the bracket, a 32 inch tv set would not have allowed us to open the bathroom door. so we settled on a 24 inch model on a swivel bracket. also the wiring to the hookup in the cabinet wall unit was all backwards so we got that straightened out, everything works fine. the PDI went well when we went to pick it up back in april, this year. I asked a lot of questions cause this was our first venture into RVing. still having to learn as we go, but we're getting there. only 2 trips so far this year, once to Ormond Beach for a 3 day outing, then at the end of august went to Gatlinburg, Tn for 10 days at the Greenbrier Campground, a very beautiful place. back home in florida for now. if anyone has this same model or the wildwood 171RBXL, please send along any thoughts on how you like yours, we love ours, thanks.

[MarkDNC]

We have a WildWood 171rbxl. Enjoying it.
We also added a mattress topper and removed the bookshelf that was over the bed. Closes much easier now and doesn't feel like you are going to hit your head when you lay down.
Dealer added a black tank flush. Very helpful
Had to do some repairs, nothing major, but so far so good.

[TCedmon]

My wife and I purchased a 2017 Wildwood 201BHXL August 2017, have made over 12 trips whit the unit, took a ten day 1550 mile trip from east Galveston, TX to Bib Bend National Park in southwest Texas with several stops along our route. Quick and easy to set up, tows great with our 2017 F150 Super Crew 3.5 eco-boost.

I would really like to install the dometic 320 elongated ceramic toilet, just would sure it would fit.

Was thinking of cutting out the wall behind the toilet area, boxing it in and nicely trimming it out that would give me about an inch so the toilet would fit?

Has anyone install a 320 in there 201BHXL unit? Cruise or Wildwood

Thanks and enjoy your new RV
Ed

[Golfnbike13]

Originally Posted by Chriswebb7570

Good morning. New to the forums.
My wife and I just purchased a 2018 Salem Cruise Lite 197BH. We'll be picking it up in a few weeks. Very excited!

Two question for the forums:

1) Does anyone know the tire size and/or bolt pattern for this model?
2). Sewer hose is stored where? Our current RV has a plastic tube mounted under the tongue, but on this new model, I could not determine where the sewer hose gets stored.

Thanks everyone for your help.

I have the 195bh, which is just an older model of the same camper. Mine stores in the rear bumper, just pop the rubber cap of the end and it sides in then pop cap back on.

that method only accommodates the straight hose but I keep a clear elbow attached to my hose and actually store it all in a Rubbermaid underbed storage container that sides out the external storage door.

[tboots]

I recently bought a 2016 Salem Cruise Lite 241QBXL and am somewhat unhappy Forest River does not provide model specific owners manuals.
I’m reasonably smart and pretty dang handy and was a “shop teacher” to boot! However, as I used to teach my students, not knowing something doesn’t make you dumb or stupid, it just means you’ve never been taught.
So I need help! Teach me.



My concern right now winterizing. The person I bought the trailer from, who though not as far north in Ga as I am but is still north of Atlanta, said he never “winterized” any of the travel trailers he’s owned and everything was drained so I shouldn’t have to worry.


Well I’m a skeptic and when I found the “low point drain” hoses, which he said he’d never even noticed before, and took off the caps water came out. A fair amount of water. I also found when I pulled the water heater anode rod out the water heater was full. So he’s obviously not the person to ask for help.



So as I said, I need help with winterizing:

1- Regarding the WATER HEATER
A- Where is the breaker? None are labeled as water heater in the panel under the sink
B- Where is the water heater on/off switch referred to in the water heater manual?
C- What is a water heater by pass system I read about?
C1- How do I know if I have one?
C2- What does it do if I do have one?
D- Do I really want to put RV antifreeze in my water heater? If so how do I get it in there?


2- I read about blowing the water lines with air compressor on low pressure. Yes? No? Will that not hurt the water pump?
3- ???


What I’ve done so far:

• I’ve removed the “low point” drain caps and left them off. I did that when I discovered then when I purchased the trailer. So driving home with them open surely jostled out water in the lines.
• I’ve shut off the MAIN breaker since I can’t find the breaker or on/off switch for the water heater.
• Opened kitchen and bathroom faucets (sinks and shower)
• I’ve pulled the anode rod and drained the water heater and left it out

That's all I've done at this point.


I read in this forum do this and don’t do that. One person says do something and the following person says don’t and sometimes seems to emphasize never do something someone else says do.


Help. And thanks in advance. tboots (AKA Tim)

[MarkDNC]

I have the 171rbxl - your little brother unit.

The water heater switch is on the panel to the left as you walk in the door.
A lot of other switches are there - tank lights, battery status, overhead lights etc.
Don't turn the water heater on if it's drained.

The rear exterior storage access door opens up to a storage area that has a wood floor. Lift it up and you will see the water heater and bypass lines. This is not the same door you opened to get to the anode rod. Don't fill the water heater with RV antifreeze.

My water heater is propane only with a 12v igniter. It does not have a separate circuit breaker for the water heater only.

I blew out my lines using a compressor. Did each area one at a time. Then added RV antifreeze to the traps and toilet bowl. I live in Raleigh and don't feel that I need RV antifreeze in the water lines (ignore the weather channel today with 10" of snow here) Fake news! .

Good luck on finding the illusive all comprehensive manual.

[bikendan]

Tim, just a note.
The vast majority of RVs only come with a generic owners manual with No model-specific information, not just FR.

[BayouCamper1]

Originally Posted by tboots

I recently bought a 2016 Salem Cruise Lite 241QBXL and am somewhat unhappy Forest River does not provide model specific owners manuals.
I’m reasonably smart and pretty dang handy and was a “shop teacher” to boot! However, as I used to teach my students, not knowing something doesn’t make you dumb or stupid, it just means you’ve never been taught.
So I need help! Teach me.



My concern right now winterizing. The person I bought the trailer from, who though not as far north in Ga as I am but is still north of Atlanta, said he never “winterized” any of the travel trailers he’s owned and everything was drained so I shouldn’t have to worry.


Well I’m a skeptic and when I found the “low point drain” hoses, which he said he’d never even noticed before, and took off the caps water came out. A fair amount of water. I also found when I pulled the water heater anode rod out the water heater was full. So he’s obviously not the person to ask for help.



So as I said, I need help with winterizing:

1- Regarding the WATER HEATER
A- Where is the breaker? None are labeled as water heater in the panel under the sink
B- Where is the water heater on/off switch referred to in the water heater manual?
C- What is a water heater by pass system I read about?
C1- How do I know if I have one?
C2- What does it do if I do have one?
D- Do I really want to put RV antifreeze in my water heater? If so how do I get it in there?


2- I read about blowing the water lines with air compressor on low pressure. Yes? No? Will that not hurt the water pump?
3- ???


What I’ve done so far:

• I’ve removed the “low point” drain caps and left them off. I did that when I discovered then when I purchased the trailer. So driving home with them open surely jostled out water in the lines.
• I’ve shut off the MAIN breaker since I can’t find the breaker or on/off switch for the water heater.
• Opened kitchen and bathroom faucets (sinks and shower)
• I’ve pulled the anode rod and drained the water heater and left it out

That's all I've done at this point.


I read in this forum do this and don’t do that. One person says do something and the following person says don’t and sometimes seems to emphasize never do something someone else says do.


Help. And thanks in advance. tboots (AKA Tim)

Open the low point drain and use an air compressor to blow out the water, pull the plug on the hot waterheater, and blow the water. Put the lowpoint caps/ waterheater plug back on and open each sink/tub valve individually and blow the water and have soemone hold your toilet flush open and blow the water. Then open low point again and blow it out again and pull the plug on the waterheater. also drain your fresh water tank. Put lowpiont and waterheater plug back on and open all sink/tub valves and leave them. I do not put antifreeze in my fresh water or waterheater, I put some in the black and grey tanks. On my 201bhxl, HW switch is on the control panel by the door. I'm further south, maybe some of the northern campers can give you better advice, but get as much water out the system that you can. Also, if you use an air compressor, turn your regulator down.

[Golfnbike13]

Originally Posted by tboots

I recently bought a 2016 Salem Cruise Lite 241QBXL and am somewhat unhappy Forest River does not provide model specific owners manuals.
I’m reasonably smart and pretty dang handy and was a “shop teacher” to boot! However, as I used to teach my students, not knowing something doesn’t make you dumb or stupid, it just means you’ve never been taught.
So I need help! Teach me.



My concern right now winterizing. The person I bought the trailer from, who though not as far north in Ga as I am but is still north of Atlanta, said he never “winterized” any of the travel trailers he’s owned and everything was drained so I shouldn’t have to worry.


Well I’m a skeptic and when I found the “low point drain” hoses, which he said he’d never even noticed before, and took off the caps water came out. A fair amount of water. I also found when I pulled the water heater anode rod out the water heater was full. So he’s obviously not the person to ask for help.



So as I said, I need help with winterizing:

1- Regarding the WATER HEATER
A- Where is the breaker? None are labeled as water heater in the panel under the sink
B- Where is the water heater on/off switch referred to in the water heater manual?
C- What is a water heater by pass system I read about?
C1- How do I know if I have one?
C2- What does it do if I do have one?
D- Do I really want to put RV antifreeze in my water heater? If so how do I get it in there?


2- I read about blowing the water lines with air compressor on low pressure. Yes? No? Will that not hurt the water pump?
3- ???


What I’ve done so far:

• I’ve removed the “low point” drain caps and left them off. I did that when I discovered then when I purchased the trailer. So driving home with them open surely jostled out water in the lines.
• I’ve shut off the MAIN breaker since I can’t find the breaker or on/off switch for the water heater.
• Opened kitchen and bathroom faucets (sinks and shower)
• I’ve pulled the anode rod and drained the water heater and left it out

That's all I've done at this point.


I read in this forum do this and don’t do that. One person says do something and the following person says don’t and sometimes seems to emphasize never do something someone else says do.


Help. And thanks in advance. tboots (AKA Tim)

Looks like Mark covered most of it. Like him my hot water heater is propane only so there isn’t a breaker for it.

I open all the faucets and blow air through the city water connection on low from compressor. I haven’t had any issues with pump yet.
Then I’ll still run antifreeze through the lines, bypass the HWH first! Probably overkill but a connection behind my toilet would always crack over winter when only blowing air. I can only guess the air wasn’t blowing out all the water. Another thing not to overlook, your shower heads or sink sprayers. I’ve had a shower head bust from water left in it. Now i just disconnect it and store in garage.

You will get a lot of opinions but I would never put antifreeze in hot water heater or fresh water tank.

[MarkDNC]

The water heater bypass valve allows you to bypass the water heater when you fill the water lines with RV antifreeze.

You have already drained yours and removed the anode rod. If you are going to only use compressed air to blow out the lines, you don't really have to bypass the water heater.

[tboots]

Wow wow wow wow wow! What quick and informative replies. I'm impressed and think I’ll be happy here.


Regarding the breaker for the water heater I wasn't thinking. Of course mine is propane only so the only elec involved is the igniter. Thanks all for pointing that out. I also knew of the switch by the door but had forgotten it was there. Thanks MarkDNC for pointing that out. Also MarkDNC, the 241qbxl differs from how you describe its “little brother” as to access to the water heater by pass. I had not before noticed the panel inside beneath the frig but when i removed it I found the rear end of the water heater and now see the “by pass" plumbing and understand what that’s about. But since I don’t plan to ingest antifreeze into the fresh water lines it sounds like I won’t need to mess with that.


I previously had also unsuccessfully looked for the potable water tank drain. Finally today I realized it was further under the trailer than I expected (it’d be a tough reach if you have short arms), but also each time I looked it was hidden by the shackle for the axel springs. Today all of the sudden there was this blue pex tube hanging down. Yea!


I’m now more confident about blowing the lines and had already bought an adapter to go on the city water input for that purpose. Mark I’m not sure what you mean about blowing one area at a time. It sounds to me like BayouCamper and GolfnBike are saying just blow from the city input point.


I won’t do antifreeze in the fresh water lines but did pour some in each trap and have some standing in the toilet.


And finally BikenDan, I think I’ve seen you on here before, thanks for pointing out the FR is not unique about not having model specific owners manuals. I still don’t understand why, but at least you’ve curbed my disappointment with FR.


I feel much more confident about getting the help I know I’ll need more of. Thanks all.


PS I also just found this https://www.chilhoweerv.com/rv-lifes...orest-river-rv

[MarkDNC]

I’m now more confident about blowing the lines and had already bought an adapter to go on the city water input for that purpose. Mark I’m not sure what you mean about blowing one area at a time. It sounds to me like BayouCamper and GolfnBike are saying just blow from the city input point.


I just meant I do the sink, then the shower, one at a time.
I think you got it.

Hope you enjoy yours.

[Luthien131]

Hi. My 2019 Salem Cruise Lite 243bhxl came with a rack at the back with the spare tire attached. If I lower it, then the spare tire is facing the ground -- is that safe? It seems kind of odd to me.
Thanks

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Luthien131

Hi. My 2019 Salem Cruise Lite 243bhxl came with a rack at the back with the spare tire attached. If I lower it, then the spare tire is facing the ground -- is that safe? It seems kind of odd to me.
Thanks

I've owned two Wildwoods with the same spare tire mount. The pivot action makes no sense to me either. I agree, it is odd.