Seasonal camping stabilizing.

[Dsbrew1]

I’ve searched but I can’t find the answer to my specific question. I have a little bit of an idea on where this will take me but I thought you fine folks would be able to chime in with facts, not conjecture. My Sandpiper FLIK377 is a seasonal camper. I noticed that when we went to open it this year, the front landing gear is clearly leaking oil from the seals. I have no idea why, but this brings me to my question. While I plan on eventually fixing the seals, do you think it is possible to put my camper up on blocks and kind of eliminate the landing gear all together? Not take it off, just have it so it’s close to the ground for safety but not actually holding any weight? I know that doing that would definitely help stabilize the unit but can it be safely done? I would likely use stacked 6x6 lumber and build it up until it can safely rest on that. And then, if I find that this is safe and will not cause damage, I would consider lifting the rig midship and then the rear as well. I understand that the rear are stabilizers and not jacks but will the frame hold the weight of the unit if I were to do this? Right now I have hydraulic landing gear in front and scissor stabilizers in the back. Nothing in the center. Any and all input is appreciated. And I have not done this yet. I wanted to get information on it first. Thanks in advance.

[Scrapper]

Most seasonals use cinder/concrete blocks. First thing, place a 2"x6"x6' or 2"x8"x6'pressure treated board under the tires. Place solid 2"x8"x16" blocks on the ground, stack 8"x8"x16" blocks on top with the holes vertical, finish with another solid 2"x8"x16" block on top. You will have better stability if you place two stacks together. You may have to use hardwood wedges on top of the blocks to fill in space of 1" or less. You will have to search for 1/2"H x 4"W x 6"L hardwood wedges unless you have the tools to make them yourself. Some rv dealers may have some wedges you can purchase.

Place a stack at each corner, and a stack in front of and behind the axles for a trailer. Try to space the middle stacks as even as you can. Some seasonals place crushed stone under the blocks and under the 5er hitch. You don't need one of those 5th wheel tripods when setting up a 5er as you can buy a vinyl attachment or build walls with a door to use the fifth wheel space as a storage area. You will need at least a 5 ton bottle jack and 2 x 6 boards. A 2 foot level on the floor will help and plan on re-leveling some time in the future.

My trailer was set up for 4 years before I needed to re-level, it will be there for 8 years this August. I used a 4 foot level and a 20T bottle jack. My 1-1/2 and 2 ton bottle jacks wouldn't lift one side of the trailer even when used together.

The attached pictures show the types of blocks I used and a picture of my TT set up.

[Dsbrew1]

Thank you. Now just the big question, will the frame hold the weight supported anywhere other than axles and landing gear? I’ve read that on other campers that the frame can’t hold it which sounds strange to me since they go down the road at speed and the frame has to hold up to that wear and tear.

[oxcamper]

Good thorough description Scrapper.
I would suggest one additional thing, if it is possible, put 2x10 or 2x12 Pressure Treated for Ground boards under the tires. I know it may mean pulling your unit out, and backing it back in on the boards, but it will stabilize and protect the tires and keep them from sinking into the ground, even if it's hard pack gravel.
Of course if you're on concrete -- nevermind.

[Dsbrew1]

I already have it on boards. My main concern was if the frame can handle the weight. Thank you though. That’s great advice for anyone that doesn’t know that.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Dsbrew1

I already have it on boards. My main concern was if the frame can handle the weight. Thank you though. That’s great advice for anyone that doesn’t know that.

The frame can handle it well using blocks instead of the stabilizers. As I said using two sets of blocks next to each other will make it more stable than using the stabilizer jacks. Make sure the top blocks are as close to the same height as you can get them, a line level or water level comes in handy, then use hardwood wedges to fill in where you need it. If your lucky you will not need the wedges on all the columns. When placing the blocks put the bottom blocks 90 degrees to your frame, set the next blocks 90* to the bottom ones, then place the top blocks 90* to the middle ones. The top and bottom blocks will be oriented with each other, just like setting cribbing or a cinder block column. I have seen one guy glue the blocks together but it makes it harder when you change trailers or sites.


One thing to watch for is the LP gas pipe may be fastened under your frame as mine was. For this reason I needed the wedges on the door side from front to the blocks next to the steps.

[Dsbrew1]

Thanks for clarifying that and for being so thorough and precise. And the pictures are a tremendous help.

[Iwritecode]

Looks like Scrapper pretty much described everything perfectly. Here's what mine currently looks like.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

Looks like Scrapper pretty much described everything perfectly. Here's what mine currently looks like.

Attachment 253653

And before someone jumps in and admonishes Iwritecode for not having his blocks oriented in the correct direction, what he has done by placing the load directly above the side web on some blocks and the middle web on other blocks is perfectly fine.

We are not talking about supporting the weight of a two story building here, simply supporting the frame of a R/V and these will do just fine as they are. It also allows for more stable ground contact as the block will not sink as quickly as it would stood on the open end.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by 5picker

And before someone jumps in and admonishes Iwritecode for not having his blocks oriented in the correct direction, what he has done by placing the load directly above the side web on some blocks and the middle web on other blocks is perfectly fine.

We are not talking about supporting the weight of a two story building here, simply supporting the frame of a R/V and these will do just fine as they are. It also allows for more stable ground contact as the block will not sink as quickly as it would stood on the open end.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by 5picker

And before someone jumps in and admonishes Iwritecode for not having his blocks oriented in the correct direction, what he has done by placing the load directly above the side web on some blocks and the middle web on other blocks is perfectly fine.

We are not talking about supporting the weight of a two story building here, simply supporting the frame of a R/V and these will do just fine as they are. It also allows for more stable ground contact as the block will not sink as quickly as it would stood on the open end.

The way Iwritecode does it is perfectly fine. Double stacking adds rigidity to the columns. Placing 2" or 4" x8"x16" blocks on the ground then the 8"x8"x16" on top will prevent a lot of sinking.

If you look close at the picture of the blocks under my TT you will see that I have the blocks single stacked. The stack at the rear passenger side was the tallest and the ground was soft enough it would shift enough to need re-stacking every two years. Yes, I had others question why I didn't double stack. It's all the blocks I had so I did what I could.

Many seasonals are so picky they would frown on the way Iwritecode and I do it. Some seasonals hide the blocks by building 2"x2" wood frames around the blocks and cover it with stained wood or cedar siding. There was one seasonal which dug up all the grass where the trailer would sit, put down crushed stone and compacted it before setting the trailer.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

The way Iwritecode does it is perfectly fine. Double stacking adds rigidity to the columns. Placing 2" or 4" x8"x16" blocks on the ground then the 8"x8"x16" on top will prevent a lot of sinking.

If you look close at the picture of the blocks under my TT you will see that I have the blocks single stacked. The stack at the rear passenger side was the tallest and the ground was soft enough it would shift enough to need re-stacking every two years. Yes, I had others question why I didn't double stack. It's all the blocks I had so I did what I could.

Many seasonals are so picky they would frown on the way Iwritecode and I do it. Some seasonals hide the blocks by building 2"x2" wood frames around the blocks and cover it with stained wood or cedar siding. There was one seasonal which dug up all the grass where the trailer would sit, put down crushed stone and compacted it before setting the trailer.

Our CG manager got a few truckloads of gravel and now always makes sure to put down a fresh bed of gravel on the site anytime a new seasonal trailer gets brought in. Of course this practice started the year *after* we moved in.

It would've been nice to have underneath our trailer as the ground there is really soft. I think we are going to have to re-level again this year. Our bathroom door doesn't stay open like it used to.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

Our CG manager got a few truckloads of gravel and now always makes sure to put down a fresh bed of gravel on the site anytime a new seasonal trailer gets brought in. Of course this practice started the year *after* we moved in.

It would've been nice to have underneath our trailer as the ground there is really soft. I think we are going to have to re-level again this year. Our bathroom door doesn't stay open like it used to.

Maybe your vanity wants some privacy.

[dcheatwood]

Yeah, I noticed that also. If weight were an issue here, they'd need to be turned. This way, only 3 panels in each block is holding the weight. Orientated correctly, it more that double the weight capacity with 7 panels holding the weight.

Originally Posted by 5picker

And before someone jumps in and admonishes Iwritecode for not having his blocks oriented in the correct direction, what he has done by placing the load directly above the side web on some blocks and the middle web on other blocks is perfectly fine.

We are not talking about supporting the weight of a two story building here, simply supporting the frame of a R/V and these will do just fine as they are. It also allows for more stable ground contact as the block will not sink as quickly as it would stood on the open end.

[Dsbrew1]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

Our CG manager got a few truckloads of gravel and now always makes sure to put down a fresh bed of gravel on the site anytime a new seasonal trailer gets brought in. Of course this practice started the year *after* we moved in.

It would've been nice to have underneath our trailer as the ground there is really soft. I think we are going to have to re-level again this year. Our bathroom door doesn't stay open like it used to.

It would take an act of Congress to get our CG to do ANYTHING in the way of preventive maintenance or actual maintenance. We do everything except move our leaves off site after we have raked them. We have to regularly fill the road in front of our camper, we have to provide any material to upgrade our sites, hell, we’ve even had to hire our own tree companies to come in and trim trees. And now they just told us that they will no longer be providing cable tv. I think when the park went to mainly seasonal, they knew that they could cut services and we’d all just stay anyway. We have nothing there other than our friends. All of the promises they have made over the years were all big duds. Thank god for friends or we’d be traveling.