Help Black and Galley tanks stuck open

[Rodgers]

Hey everyone out there this is a specific brand of camper. I have a 2011 Forest River Sierra 365 RL. So I want only answers from those that have this year and brand of 5th wheel. Layout and floor plan aren't the real issue. So with that said what I need in people who have or have had a 2011 Sierra 5th wheel, and had to replace their factory tank valve. What I need to know is 1.what did you replace them with Brand and part # if you can tell me? 2. where they manual or electric? I know the size of the valves I need. I just need the info on the brand and the install if you can. these are the valves location and type. The black and galley won't close at all so when I dump my tanks those two empty without the opening of the two valve. As soon as I open the valve that was installed back when I bought the 5th wheel everything empties and then just refills the tube going to the drain hose connection. so pics please of what and how you did it if you can. Thanks for any help but please only posts that can help with my specific problem and only parts that you have used and know hey will work. Again THANK YOU everyone

[youroo]

I helped my buddy repair his he had one same year and Model as yours,but I don't own one and my buddy sold his and as is not a FRF member anymore! Youroo!!

[Mdaniels4]

I was always worried about that same thing on my 2011 grand junction. What if the cable got stuck, the black was always really tough to pull or push. What if it snapped in the closed position?

So I simply bypassed it completely. I put the lower drain valve that you have on, and kept the black open to that. The other two I kept closed, but if one of them failed at least in the open I would have just left it that way. Until I got around to crawling under the trailer and replacing it.

[chop249]

If you want that specific of an answer ask a dealer or the manufacturer. FYI most of these campers are all built alike until you get to the specifics of the floor plan. Being that this is a system issue most anyone could probably give you a solid answer.

[Rodgers]

That's the problem Both are stuck open and I cant close them I need to back to IL now. So I need to get them fixed now so any thing in the down tube won't freeze I have someone to do the repairs but he feels there's may be an issue with the fitment I want to put electric but he's not sure they will fit. so I have this problem I need to figure out thanks all. Would love to hear from someone who builds these in the plant in IN.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by Rodgers

so I have this problem I need to figure out thanks all. Would love to hear from someone who builds these in the plant in IN.

Please be aware that this forum in not operated by Forest River and with the exception of a few FR employees who are individual members and are very helpful with their specific models no one from FR will see this request. That being said there is lots of experience here and you will most likely receive some assistance.

[Photo Lab]

The valves are in my experience very generic, and will interchange. In addition to that, the flat part of the valve, into which the stem goes will invariably have the maker's name or trademark molded into it. Stores like Camping World will have the parts. Be aware though, that electric valves are rather pricey, around $300 each as compared to $20. The remote control valves will generally be adapted with a cable by the RV manufacturer, and may be attached to different makes of valves. The picture you included shows the valve I believe you're speaking of in the closed position, so I'm suggesting that the shutter in it is broken, missing, or the seals are entirely shot.

[Rodgers]

Yes that's the position But they are stuck open both the black and galley valves I just want to avoid this again later down the road I have someone coming tomorrow to look at them I hope. Not so much worried about the price looking ant maybe the Barker valves as they look more compact. Thanks for the feed back.

[ktvaughan]

The mechanical valves are pretty simple.
They can be closed manually once you get underneath.
Sloak them with some water and antifreeze and then work them free.
They must have dried out when open.
The valve is basically a plastic panel that runs between 2 rubber o-rings.

[Rodgers]

Thanks everyone for the input as I see it I think the biggest problem will be actually getting the plastic sheeting all off to get at the tank valves so they can be fixed properly. I don't really want to have to turn around and mess with them in a year or so and maybe even less.

[Pipeman]

I had the same problem as you have. I had to use the end of line valve. It wasn't the valves that were at fault. It was the wire linkage that was the problem. They got bound inside the outer sheath. So for the grey water, that was eliminated and I now have a metal rod in place. The valve was rotated 180 degrees as it was found to face the opposite direction from the Dump side. The black water valve also faces, imo, the wrong direction also but the length of the wire was shortened and now works. My trailer mechanic told me if I have trouble with the black water valve again that it will be rotated towards the dump side and a metal rod installed. Thankfully they make end of line valves. You could dump anti freeze down the toilet after you dump to stop the gunk from freezing.