So there is definitely something stuck in the check valve. There is a rod attached to the drain plug that is severely corroded. Got a new one ordered and will hopefully have it changed and have hot water next weekend.
Is it easier to just replace the check valve or try blowing air back thru it?
There is a rod attached to the drain plug that is severely corroded. Got a new one ordered and will hopefully have it changed and have hot water next weekend.
That would be your anode rod. They are meant to be sacrificial.
It's important to turn your bypass valves before draining the water heater so you don't get the crud from the heater into your lines.
Is it easier to just replace the check valve or try blowing air back thru it?
If it's stuck, you can NOT blow air "back" thru it, as the it's a one way thing, and you would be actually using air to close it in that direction...not open it.
You would have to blow air from inside the tank TOWARDS the check valve for it to open...like water pressure would do coming out of the tank.
__________________ 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
While you are waiting for the anode rod to show up, run city water into heater and try to get as much crude out of the tank as possible. Use a long thin screwdriver to assist pieces. Also, replace check valve. Don’t try to fix it.
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
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