running ethernet and coax under trailer and up where????

[Steve in Frisco]

model 312QBX Wildcat

I'm installing two pole mounted antennas that I'l attach to the rear ladder, one is a Ubiquiti wifi antenna that's a poe Ethernet cable, the second is a yagi wide band cellular antenna running coax cable.

I need to run these cables from the back, under the trailer along the frame and then up through the floor ideally where I could get to them from behind the entertainment wall with all the other cable connections. I really need to get these cable up to about 1 foot below ceiling level as the the wifi ethernet plugs into a wifi router and the coax runs into a cellular amplifier then onto an interior panel antenna to broadcast the amplified cell signals.

Any suggestions or other ideas. I really don't want to punch these through the roof. I've not yet emptied out my cargo area and pulled the side panel off where I'm sure I'll find all the other wires running to the power center which is at the bottom of the entertainment wall, but just wanted to see if anyone else had tried something similar. Thanks

[Kaadk]

I know you don't want to punch holes in the roof, but you might be able to reuse an existing hole in the roof. Can you locate where the Existing antenna's coax runs into your rig? If so, it may be possible to pull away some of the sealant, run the extra cables, then reseal it. But then you'd still have to deal with what to do with the cables laying across the roof between the ladder and the point of entry.






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[Flybob]

I used j clamps to attach ENT flex conduit (see link) to the frame rail ( using existing sheet metal screws for coroplast bottom) from front to rear. Add a pull string before installing. I have since run my wired B/U camera and backup lights in it. Simple, clean and effective.

Carlon 1 in. x 25 ft. ENT Coil - Blue-12008-025 - The Home Depot

[Steve in Frisco]

the windup tv antenna is about 18 inches away from where I'd like to be, but I have no access to where that existing cable is coming through the roof and then running down the wall that the TV is mounted to. That's why I thought it would be easy to fish these new cables from under the floor where there should be other existing cabling and power lines. The thing I don't know is if that wall has any horizontal bracing in it that might stop me from fishing the cables to the top of the wall where I can punch a hole above the cabinets and grab them and still have them be out of sight.

[Steve in Frisco]

Originally Posted by Flybob

I used j clamps to attach ENT flex conduit (see link) to the frame rail ( using existing sheet metal screws for coroplast bottom) from front to rear. Add a pull string before installing. I have since run my wired B/U camera and backup lights in it. Simple, clean and effective.

Carlon 1 in. x 25 ft. ENT Coil - Blue-12008-025 - The Home Depot

FlyBob did you run your wires to the front of the trailer and then into cab of the truck, or did you dead end them somewhere in the trailer?

[Flybob]

The two I have run to date were from rear bumper( B/U camera and B/U lights ) and they have terminated at the hitch. One in the wiring junction box and one in a connector ( camera) for TV connection. You can break the ENT in the middle and remove one run if it needs to go up through the floor.

[B and B]

The loss on the Yagi antenna cable will be a lot on a long coax run. I would suggest from a RF engineers perspective you make a hole close to the mast location in the back of the trailer and mount the Cell booster close to this in a cupboard, making sure you have the required separation between outside receive and inside transmit. 12 volts can always be found from a light close by.
Assuming you are using a Wilson/ WeBoost system they might have maximum cable lengths specified in the instructions.
In any case shorter is better.

[Telstar]

It's easier to run cable through the roof. I installed my wifi antenna on the roof and ran the cable to my extender located behind the bedroom tv. I have successfully run cable through the roof of several trailers. Every light and vent provides a pull point.

[sugarjohnson]

I have a new 312BHX and have been doing mods all winter. The panel you referenced has not been attached in a month since I have been back there so much. Yes you can get to the back of the entertainment area easily from back there. If you do run them the distance you could possibly get them up through the propane area, into the front storage then through pass through into main wiring area. The antenna wire comes down the wall into the bedroom on mine, then splits out for main area and my bunkhouse.


Issue I have is the self tappers they used to access my underbelly. They appear to be "shot" in rather then the traditional self tappers. I tried to remove several and they either break or the head strips. They are smaller heads then the regular self tappers.

[cavie]

Call an electrician or cable installer. They have the "fishing poles" and knowledge to fish the wires up from the bottom inside the walls. House or trailer, no different.

[18CrewDually]

Originally Posted by cavie

Call an electrician or cable installer. They have the "fishing poles" and knowledge to fish the wires up from the bottom inside the walls. House or trailer, no different.

Call someone, what fun is that? Plus actually the construction differences between a house and a trailer of today is quite different.
If you need to run coax look for an access point that is being used already by other wires for lighting and such. You're not going to be able to just snake a wire through the exterior walls since they're basically a frame work with Styrofoam inserts, nothing like a home. You may have to drop the belly cover to make access. Also utilize cabinets, ceiling and closets to get to where you need the cable.

[cavie]

I was referring to the interior walls. Should be hollow. Come up into a cab/closet then into a wall. Lots of options learned over 45 years.