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Old 02-17-2017, 09:44 PM   #1
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2017 Wildwood 196BH Electric Brake Question

Just bought a new 196BH, traded my 2014 Puma for it. Truck is a 2005 F-150 and my brake controller worked great on the Pump but when I hooked up to the Wildwood, no brakes. I usually look the brakes up one time before pulling to check the settings. Can't lock them up and I can't really feel the brakes grabbing while driving.... any ideas ????

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Old 02-18-2017, 08:43 AM   #2
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First check should be for voltage at the 7 way plug, assuming the controller has power and the new camper does not have a short that killed it. If you have power with the brakes applied, plug the camper in and follow the wires....
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:16 AM   #3
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My 273QBXL i noticed i had to adjust voltage pretty high on my Prodigy 2 brake controller
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:17 AM   #4
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First check should be for voltage at the 7 way plug, assuming the controller has power and the new camper does not have a short that killed it. If you have power with the brakes applied, plug the camper in and follow the wires....


Everything test good at the plug. All fuses are good also.

The dealer said a 7 way plug to 4 flat adapter was available. I asked if that means no brake controller needed and he said it has power brakes.

Didn't know if that act a power surge brakes or what was going on with the TT.
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Old 02-18-2017, 11:34 AM   #5
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I have never seen a flat 4 that controlled brakes. Boats use flat 4 but they have surge braking. 7 pin is lights, brakes and usually charging for your batteries. Check that a ground wire or something didnt come off under the TT
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TechyCamper View Post
Everything test good at the plug. All fuses are good also.

The dealer said a 7 way plug to 4 flat adapter was available. I asked if that means no brake contro
ller needed and he said it has power brakes.

Didn't know if that act a power surge brakes or what was going on with the TT.

Pretty sure that, no way a four pin connector will give you brakes. If you are hooking up with four pins DON'T. ALSO, NOT sure of voltages, but check lower left pin as you face the plug on you trailer, often a blue wire and lower right as you look at recepticle on truck. Is brake control feed.
Here is a test instruction from my favorite info site for all towing issues.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-31721.html
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:42 PM   #7
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No Trailer Brakes

I have a 2011 F-150. My prior tow vehicle was a 2002 Explorer w/added brake controller. I worked great. When I hooked up to the F-150, I had to run the sensitivity clear up to 8 in order to have trailer brakes. I was lucky. Otherwise, I'm told i would have needed an add on controller. My problem was the "Ford". The factory controller wasn't putting out enough power to operate the brakes in a normal fashion.
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Old 02-18-2017, 02:52 PM   #8
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It appears my older controller doesn't put out enough voltage.... worked good for the Puma I traded in but the new trailer needs more.

I've been wanting to upgrade anyways so now sounds to be a good time , haha.
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Old 02-18-2017, 04:58 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TechyCamper View Post
It appears my older controller doesn't put out enough voltage.... worked good for the Puma I traded in but the new trailer needs more.

I've been wanting to upgrade anyways so now sounds to be a good time , haha.
Did you check the gain on your controller when hooked up to your new camper? I had to run mine up to max (10) but now it works just fine.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:34 PM   #10
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It worked fine on any other trailer I've towed... not sure why this TT is any different but when I turn it up all the way, I start getting some brakes but not much.
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:00 AM   #11
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have you tried jacking up each wheel and adjusting the brakes?
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:23 AM   #12
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I suggest you check the voltage at the vehicle plug with a volt meter. If your are getting 12.5-13.0v at the truck plug you need to check the wiring on the trailer or take it back if your not familiar with trailer electrical.
I have worked on several trailers with poor brakes from the factory, usually electrical issues. Most common is loose connection where the plug harness ties into the trailer often dropping 2v which makes a big difference. The other is brakes are not even connected. (near wheels)
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:58 AM   #13
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Who ever mentioned going to flat four, could not have been talking about a brake soulution.
Max out the output on the controller. If still not working, check for resistance in the brake circuit on the TT.
The magnets should, hum when power is applied to them.
Sometimes it's as simple as a dirty connection at the plug. Spay some wd-40 on both sides then, plug and unplug a few times.
Good luck
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:08 AM   #14
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My dad has had an issue with his brand new Wildwood... the brake assemblies were installed wrong (if at all). Both sides look like there were no pads on the shoes at all. It was already sent back to the dealer for the driver's side after the first trip... now back at the dealer after the second trip for the passenger side. Don't know if this is a bad axle or if WW hired an idiot to install brakes.....
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Hope your issue is resolved faster and easier.
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:41 PM   #15
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Cheap bonded pads and shoes will slip off like that sometimes it happens on cars and truck also. I try to find ones that are still have rivets in them. On a side note i would like to thank the people on this site for talking me out of buying a new wildwood they sound like they have a lot of problems
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:16 PM   #16
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The brakes are directional so installing the axle backwards at the factory would result in no brakes. https://www.etrailer.com/question-181616.html
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:21 PM   #17
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Yes large shoe to the back smaller shoe on the front. I have yet to put brakes on my trailer but i dont think you can put a axle on backwards but you can certainly put the shoes on backwards or on the wrong side
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:27 PM   #18
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I am not the Tireman of brakes, but I say there was an issue. Wrong direction/type? Only brake working? Defective bonding of friction material? Bent/defective web? Brakes dragging/too tight? Brake controller defective/applying some voltage to magnets?
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:10 PM   #19
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My 99 f150 had no integrated brake controler. I installed an aftermarket unit for our first 19ft tt. Setting was very low. The next year we sold the f150 and 19ft for a f250 and 30ft. F250 has integrated break controls. I have to keep it on 10 just to feel it working. Fords integrated break controller is weak in my opinion. All of them at my work, (14 truck's ) are the same way. To test the tt, Jack the tires off the ground, pull the breakaway lanyard and spin the tires. If the battery is good, the tires will lock up. Good luck.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
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My 99 f150 had no integrated brake controler. I installed an aftermarket unit for our first 19ft tt. Setting was very low. The next year we sold the f150 and 19ft for a f250 and 30ft. F250 has integrated break controls. I have to keep it on 10 just to feel it working. Fords integrated break controller is weak in my opinion. All of them at my work, (14 truck's ) are the same way. To test the tt, Jack the tires off the ground, pull the breakaway lanyard and spin the tires. If the battery is good, the tires will lock up. Good luck.


What year is the F250? There are additional brake controller efforts on 2015 and newer trucks in dash screen, low, medium, and high.
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