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04-21-2017, 09:17 AM
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#1
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Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vevay, Indiana
Posts: 129
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Any chance the ducts are there?
I have a 2017 Wildwood 261BHXL
It has a roof a/c (non-ducted)
Other 2017 Wildwood 261BHXL 's have ducted a/c as an upgrade..
Any chance the ducts are in mine and just blocked off?
I'd like to add an A/C vent to the bedroom, so I can close off the curtain divider for privacy and still get cold air.
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04-21-2017, 09:33 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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following....
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2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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04-21-2017, 09:35 AM
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#3
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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More than likely they are there (typically just a channel in framing), but you would need a new inside panel, thermostat, and vents for the rest of the RV also. I'm not sure you can make the non-vented model AC work.
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2016 Georgetown 364TS
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04-21-2017, 09:39 AM
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#4
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Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vevay, Indiana
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaMan
More than likely they are there (typically just a channel in framing), but you would need a new inside panel, thermostat, and vents for the rest of the RV also. I'm not sure you can make the non-vented model AC work.
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Ahh.. I see.
I was hoping I could just unblock the duct that runs to the bedroom, and pop a hole in the ceiling and add just one vent..
thanks for the info!
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04-21-2017, 09:55 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaMan
More than likely they are there (typically just a channel in framing), but you would need a new inside panel, thermostat, and vents for the rest of the RV also. I'm not sure you can make the non-vented model AC work.
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Obviously, he would need the vents.
Not sure what you mean by "inside panel."
Not sure why he'd need a new T-stat. Might need to move the one he has, but I'd think installing vents would actually be better for the T-stat location as it would even out the air flow in the TT.
UPDATE: Figured you might think he has an AC with the controls on the ceiling panel and that's why you think he needs an "inside panel" and a T-stat. Given the size of his TT, I would be surprised if he has that kind of AC. My smaller Roo 19 hybrid was not ducted, but it had a T-stat on the wall.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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04-21-2017, 09:58 AM
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#6
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Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vevay, Indiana
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaMan
More than likely they are there (typically just a channel in framing), but you would need a new inside panel, thermostat, and vents for the rest of the RV also. I'm not sure you can make the non-vented model AC work.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
Obviously, he would need the vents.
Not sure what you mean by "inside panel."
Not sure why he'd need a new T-stat. Might need to move the one he has, but I'd think installing vents would actually be better for the T-stat location as it would even out the air flow in the TT.
UPDATE: Figured you might think he has an AC with the controls on the ceiling panel and that's why you think he needs an "inside panel" and a T-stat. Given the size of his unit, it's very possible he doesn't have that kind of AC. My Roo 19 was not ducted, but it had a T-stat.
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the only thermostat in the TT controls the propane furnace only.
The A/C controls are all contained on the A/C unit itself.
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04-21-2017, 10:10 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleStout
the only thermostat in the TT controls the propane furnace only.
The A/C controls are all contained on the A/C unit itself.
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So thinking some more, you would need to open up the foam from the AC's discharge plenum to the ducting, then close off the normal discharge vents in the ceiling panel (I think that's really what AquaMan was getting at), which probably isn't too difficult, but then you'd have to put a T-stat somewhere and run it's wiring back to the AC.
So I've come around to AquaMan's view. Sounds like a lot of work.
And that all ASSUMES that the ducts are actually there. Not sure how you'd determine that easily.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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04-21-2017, 10:13 AM
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#8
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Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vevay, Indiana
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
So thinking some more, you would need to open up the foam from the AC's discharge plenum to the ducting, then close off the normal discharge vents in the ceiling panel (I think that's really what AquaMan was getting at), which probably isn't too difficult, but then you'd have to put a T-stat somewhere and run it's wiring back to the AC.
So I've come around to AquaMan's view. Sounds like a lot of work.
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yep. too much work for me
I should've just spent the extra cash for the upgrade in the very beginning. But I was paying cash for the unit, and just simply maxed out on my budget...
Think I'll just leave the curtain open... not really adequate privacy anyhow..
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04-21-2017, 10:27 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleStout
yep. too much work for me
I should've just spent the extra cash for the upgrade in the very beginning. But I was paying cash for the unit, and just simply maxed out on my budget...
Think I'll just leave the curtain open... not really adequate privacy anyhow..
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Just found this thread. Might help you, might not.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1482075
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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04-21-2017, 03:25 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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No harm in pulling down the inside part and look and see if the ducts are there. I just had my inside down to vacuum out my ducts and block off the ends.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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04-22-2017, 03:37 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
So thinking some more, you would need to open up the foam from the AC's discharge plenum to the ducting, then close off the normal discharge vents in the ceiling panel (I think that's really what AquaMan was getting at), which probably isn't too difficult, but then you'd have to put a T-stat somewhere and run it's wiring back to the AC.
So I've come around to AquaMan's view. Sounds like a lot of work.
And that all ASSUMES that the ducts are actually there. Not sure how you'd determine that easily.
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Actually it may be quite simple.
Step 1. If you remove the lower portion of the A/C inside the camper you should be able to look inside your roof above the ceiling to see if the ducting is there. If not, I don't think it would be worth the effort to try the install. If so, proceed to step two.
Step 2. Remove your thermostat to see if all the wires are connected or are there an unused wire. If an unused wire exists then you only need a new thermostat. This will keep you from having to fish a new thermostat cable with the wiring to control the A/C too.
If both those are true it would be a sinple matter of getting the correct lower portion of the A/C, a new thermostat and vent covers.
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2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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04-22-2017, 06:39 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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On my unit, I had 12volt line run in between all the ceiling vents. Not a problem putting fan/vents in each one. Maybe the ducts are there so as to make production faster and also therm.stat. wire might be there. No loss looking.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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05-07-2017, 11:18 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 5
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I've got a 14' Wildwood 262BHXL that has ducted a/c. If you drop the a/c panel from the ceiling, the forward running duct begins on the r/h side (facing fwd); the aft running duct is on the l/h side (facing fwd). In my TT, each duct has 2 round vents; one halfway down the duct and the other at the end.
To get adequate flow to the ducts, we have to close the main vent on the a/c unit to force air down the ducting. Also, our a/c temp and fan speed is controlled by a wall mounted thermostat. Hope this helps.
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