Have to wait till Monday for the rv guy. here's some pics of the pedestal. The gap is probably 1/8th inch at the bottom. I guess it's the thickness of the wire that is keeping the 50 amp plug from sitting square. Some of the other employees with 50 amp rigs have even bigger gaps and have no issues.
The thing where I am pulling some fuses and not having a red light come on when the fuse is pulled, it sounds like that may be a main symptom.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Your plug is fine. Did you try turning that 50-amp pair of breakers in the pedestal off and back on again? The idea to try a 30 to 50 "dogbone" adapter is great. See if you can borrow one from someone else to give it a try.
Is there power to the box at all? Get a meter and check the box. Plug in something (fan?) to the far right plug in and see if it works. If it does then there is power to the pedestal. It you have a multi meter check the 50 amp. Who is running the 'camp ground'? they should know if there is power to each plug at the pedestal
Have to wait till Monday for the rv guy. here's some pics of the pedestal. The gap is probably 1/8th inch at the bottom. I guess it's the thickness of the wire that is keeping the 50 amp plug from sitting square. Some of the other employees with 50 amp rigs have even bigger gaps and have no issues.
The thing where I am pulling some fuses and not having a red light come on when the fuse is pulled, it sounds like that may be a main symptom.
Any ideas?
Thanks
All those fuses are 12volt service ony, have no connection to your a/c service, the lighted fuse circuits are new, can still remove each fuse and check for blown element. None are for a/c.
Your a/c problem remains in coach wiring or shore power fault.
All those fuses are 12volt service ony, have no connection to your a/c service, the lighted fuse circuits are new, can still remove each fuse and check for blown element. None are for a/c.
Your a/c problem remains in coach wiring or shore power fault.
There has been power to the living room side of the trailer and in the bathroom and bedroom. The GFCI outlet in the bathroom does not work and none of the other GFCI outlets work. I have an extension cord for the fridge and one for the stove and ran them to outlets on the side that has electricity.
Just an hour ago the electric in the rest of the house has been doing like a brown out type of thing. The lights are very dim and fluctuate. The propane sensor rang the alarm a couple of times. ??
The 12000 btu window a/c is working fine.
I purchased this fancy rv from All American Coach out of Ohio. I wonder if they purchase new units that were rejected for sale at certified FR dealers? This rv started as a mildly sour lemon and it is getting worse.
I may have to put the wife and kids up in a hotel and pay someone to haul this destination trailer to Mathis Texas ( 2 hours away and the closest Forest River dealer) . It is still well within the one year warranty.
That just indicates that your Converter (battery charger) is in the electrical side of things that isn't working so your 12v battery is dying. At this point, if you're not willing to try the 30 to 50 adapter, I think it's probably a good idea to shut everything down (including the battery disconnect switch) and move to a hotel until you can get an electrician.
Edit: If by some chance you have a residential fridge (that doesn't need 12v), you could leave the AC power on to keep that alive. If you have a normal RV fridge, it's going to stop working with the battery so there's no point in leaving the electricity on (but no harm either I suppose).
That just indicates that your Converter (battery charger) is in the electrical side of things that isn't working so your 12v battery is dying. At this point, if you're not willing to try the 30 to 50 adapter, I think it's probably a good idea to shut everything down (including the battery disconnect switch) and move to a hotel until you can get an electrician.
Edit: If by some chance you have a residential fridge (that doesn't need 12v), you could leave the AC power on to keep that alive. If you have a normal RV fridge, it's going to stop working with the battery so there's no point in leaving the electricity on (but no harm either I suppose).
Thanks
Someone just did a voltmeter check on the pedestal and the left side had 120 but the right side and the bottom showed no voltage.
Is it safe to say that the Grand Lodge is not the issue?
The fridge is a residential Amana.
Can I just hook my jumper cables from my cars battery to the rv battery and charge it up?
Your plug is fine. Did you try turning that 50-amp pair of breakers in the pedestal off and back on again? The idea to try a 30 to 50 "dogbone" adapter is great. See if you can borrow one from someone else to give it a try.
I'm calling around now to see if someone has one in stock. It will be cheaper to get one of those than finding a room for all of us. I wonder how many electrical things I can have on if I only have a 50 amp supply?
Thanks again.
Thanks
Someone just did a voltmeter check on the pedestal and the left side had 120 but the right side and the bottom showed no voltage.
Is it safe to say that the Grand Lodge is not the issue?
The fridge is a residential Amana.
Can I just hook my jumper cables from my cars battery to the rv battery and charge it up?
Thanks again.
Have you had time to read the links I PM'd you yet?
Yes, like we have said, it appears you are only receiving one 50 amp leg, and not the other 50 amp leg from the outlet/pedestal. This is a common occurance.
Did you mean to say in the previous post, how many things can you run on a 30 amp supply if using the adapter?
You can usually run your lights, television, one air-conditioner and the microwave at the same time on 30 amps.......but not the water heater on electric, or a hair dryer. If you need to use those, you will most likely have to turn the air conditioner or microwave off.
Wal-Mart usually carries the 50/30 amp adapter in their little RV section in automotive. At least all the ones around me do.
Have you had time to read the links I PM'd you yet?
Yes, like we have said, it appears you are only receiving one 50 amp leg, and not the other 50 amp leg from the outlet/pedestal. This is a common occurance.
Did you mean to say in the previous post, how many things can you run on a 30 amp supply if using the adapter?
You can usually run your lights, television, one air-conditioner and the microwave at the same time on 30 amps.......but not the water heater on electric, or a hair dryer. If you need to use those, you will most likely have to turn the air conditioner or microwave off.
Wal-Mart usually carries the 50/30 amp adapter in their little RV section in automotive. At least all the ones around me do.
Thanks
The walmart near me doesn't have it. I'm calling the San Antonio stores.
Can I charge the RV 12v battery with my car battery using jumper cables?
I added a second link to my Wal-mart post. There are two type of adapters made....a dogbone (looks like a dog's chew bone when laid flat, big on two ends and skinny in the middle) and a straight type. The stores usually have one or the other.....if not both. You might want to see if they have the straight type in your local store.
__________________ 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
I bought the 30/50 adapter. will the 12V battery recharge now?
Most likely, it will.....but can depend on a few factors.
Your converter (which I sent an explanation in a private message the other day) should now be operating. We have discussed the point that the non-working leg of your 50 amp power supply was probably the same leg that was used to power the converter..........or since this leg wasn't working, neither was the converter.
Remember that the converter is what converts 120 volt electricity to 12 volt....to provide power to the things in your RV that require 12 volt to run. Your converter also has a battery recharger function too. The brand/model of your converter will dictate to how well it can recharge a battery....as well as how depleted the battery is to begin with.
Now that you are using a 30/50 adapter as joenic53 originally suggested........you don't have a missing leg that you did from your faulty pedestal 50 amp supply (which you remember is actually 2(two) 120 volt legs at 50 amp a piece when working correctly). Your RV is setup so that it takes these two 120 volt legs and uses one leg to power certain things and the other leg to power other things.
The adapter you just obtained, will now take the one 120 volt leg from the 30 amp outlet at the pedestal......and share it across both sides inside your trailer. Everything in your trailer is now being powered from that one 120 volt 30 amp leg now. That's why you can only run up to 30 amps worth of things when using this adapter.
The good thing is, your converter should now be powered this way and should be working to power the 12 volt things in your RV as well as recharging the battery..............albeit you are just limited in what all you can run at the same time. It works better than the alternative right now....which was only about half of your stuff working. Now, everything will work, just not all at the same time.
30 amps usually won't run two air-conditioners, but will power one.
Once you get the electrician to fix the faulty 50 amp pedestal.....you will be good to go sans the adapter.
-------------------------
Mark Polk has a great article on converters which is explained here:
Most likely, it will.....but can depend on a few factors.
Your converter (which I sent an explanation in a private message the other day) should now be operating. We have discussed the point that the non-working leg of your 50 amp power supply was probably the same leg that was used to power the converter..........or since this leg wasn't working, neither was the converter.
Remember that the converter is what converts 120 volt electricity to 12 volt....to provide power to the things in your RV that require 12 volt to run. Your converter also has a battery recharger function too. The brand/model of your converter will dictate to how well it can recharge a battery....as well as how depleted the battery is to begin with.
Now that you are using a 30/50 adapter as joenic53 originally suggested........you don't have a missing leg that you did from your faulty pedestal 50 amp supply (which you remember is actually 2(two) 120 volt legs at 50 amp a piece when working correctly). Your RV is setup so that it takes these two 120 volt legs and uses one leg to power certain things and the other leg to power other things.
The adapter you just obtained, will now take the one 120 volt leg from the 30 amp outlet at the pedestal......and share it across both sides inside your trailer. Everything in your trailer is now being powered from that one 120 volt 30 amp leg now. That's why you can only run up to 30 amps worth of things when using this adapter.
The good thing is, your converter should now be powered this way and should be working to power the 12 volt things in your RV as well as recharging the battery..............albeit you are just limited in what all you can run at the same time. It works better than the alternative right now....which was only about half of your stuff working. Now, everything will work, just not all at the same time.
30 amps usually won't run two air-conditioners, but will power one.
Once you get the electrician to fix the faulty 50 amp pedestal.....you will be good to go sans the adapter.
-------------------------
Mark Polk has a great article on converters which is explained here:
Drove 90 minutes one way (after a 15 hour shift) to get that adapter (life in the oil fields). Well worth the effort. Could not have done it without y'all.
Thanks muchly
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
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