How do I access manual slide out crank

[Hekdog]

So I have a 2016 Wildwood Xlite 230BHXL. I know there should be a manual crank that I can run with a drill to get the slide out, but not sure best way to access it. It looks to me like I either need to cut into the tyvek in the bottom but wanted to see if anyone hear van confirm.

Long story on why the slide out (along with some other electrical components) isn't working, but pretty sure I fried something and reversed the polarity and I need to get the slide out to assess the main panel that is tucked along side it when the slide is in.

[Stormrider151]

Hard to say without actually seeing what you. There are several different slide out mechanisms. Since you have an enclosed belly you might look on the frame opposite the slide out. Sometimes there is a hole there to access the motor for manual operation. Wish I could be more help. Kind of a shot in the dark. Good luck.

[Stormrider151]

Try this and see if it helps.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...58F0&FORM=VIRE

Your converter should have reverse polarity protection built in. Open your converter and look for the orange fuses and see it one of those are blown. There is also a resettable breaker located on the frame just behind the battery. It's a small box with wires attached and a small button on it. Push that button and see if things come back to life.

[Hekdog]

I have checked the two orange 40amp fuses that I could see with my current limited visibility and they both looked fine. Also checked the short stop breaker up front and that was fine as well. Even bypassed it just to see and while I do get lights, stereo, and 12v water pump, I am not getting power to slide, awning, or stabilizer jacks.

I had the dreaded water tank drop out so in the process of fixing it I had a buddy welding some extra angle iron to the frame. I did detach the batter cables as well as all the cables in that front box that attach to the frame. What I missed was a ground and neutral that were towards the back of the camper and I think those still being attached is what screwed up something in the main panel.

[Hekdog]

Oh and not to mention when I hooked up my truck after we were done it instantly fried my wiring harness and some of the wires in that front distribution box.

I have fixed any wiring issues and looked for shorts and everything looks good there. Some semi mechanics I have talked to said the fried wiring harness on my truck is a tell tale sign of reversed polarity.

[Stormrider151]

OK, There is another fuse panel in your trailer (probably anyway). The LCI control panel. In every trailer I've owned it was located behind a removable panel with exception of my current trailer where in was sandwiched in the wall. This where you find fuses and relays for what you have that isn't working. Look for a panel that is secured with screws instead of staples. That's strange about the back feed into your truck. Never heard of that one before.

[CedarCreekWoody]

The LCI control panel looks like this. Mine is under kitchen sink.

[Hekdog]

I will check that shortly... There is a panel both under the sink and under the fridge that have screws and I did find it odd there werent any fuses in the main panel listed for all the LCI stuff.

[Hekdog]

Nope that LCI panel isnt in either panels I can open up. I was able to pull the wires out a bit on one of the stabilizer jacks and it actually has one of those short stop breakers just like the main one at the front of the camper frame. I am wondering if they just used those instead if fuses.

I am pretty positive at this point that I either have to go up through the tyvek or I might be able to pull off the wheel well cover as it seems like the slide out motor is mounted directly above that. Obviously going to try the wheel well cover first and hopefully I get lucky.

I looked at this all yesterday evening and I am feeling like I am gonna find my main issue somewhere in the main panel assuming there still isn't another panel hidden away somewhere.

[Stormrider151]

I was hoping we could avoid having to cut stuff up to get your problems fixed. I'm pretty sure you have an LCI board in there somewhere. I found my current one by using the remote and listening for the relay click of my awning. I found it in the pass through sandwiched between wall panels and stapled closed. That made a lot of sense. The others were close to the hot water heater which also made a lot of sense as well. Good luck getting this resolved.

[Hekdog]

Yeah honestly the only other place there might be another panel would be behind a stapled piece of wood above the main panel... which is in that same dang area you cant get to with the slide in.

[CedarCreekWoody]

As Stormrider said the panel can be in many locations. Maybe his idea of listening for clicking sounds will work...my hearing isn't that good. Lol

[Stormrider151]

I don't hear so good either. I had to close everything so it would be very quiet. It does make a very distinct click. Funny thing was I had been looking for my second slide controller for some time and there it was right next to the control board. SCORE!!!

[OntarioFireFighter]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

The LCI control panel looks like this. Mine is under kitchen sink.

That would be a great location... On my Grey Wolf; the slide control is under the slide. When the slide is in, I can reach it laying on my belly, beside the bed. When the slide is out; I'd have to take stuff apart to get to it.

[Hekdog]

Yeah between troubleshooting this issue and when I have fixed some other issues I have seen many locations that would be great for another panel... none of which have anything.

[Stormrider151]

I never would have figured I would find mine where I did. It took awhile but I finally did. It's an accessible panel now. They really put a lot of thinking into where they put this stuff. If it's something you may never have to touch ok. But fuse and relay panels? Give me a break!!!

[Hekdog]

Wow, well I thought underneath the front half of my bunk was all storage, but as I was looking forwars from the back half it seemed a little short. Sure enough pull it up and there it is.

Unfortunately still perplexed as all the automotive style blade fuses are all fine.

[Hekdog]

Just checked with a multimeter and I am not getting power into that panel at all.

[Hekdog]

However checked the wires coming into the main panel just on the other side of the wall and I have 12.8 volts... the saga continues!

[wbdavey]

This thread has strayed from where is the manual slide access into electrical troubleshooting BUT..... If you ever find the slide motor there should be a nut on the top that you can turn with a wrench or the (sometimes provided) special wrench that came with the camper. My lesson learned the hard way- be very careful when using a cordless drill to spin the "nut". I was moving the slide on a previous 5th wheel using my cordless drill up through a hole cut in the underbelly of the trailer. Not paying attention I selected the wrong direction on the drill and it immediately ripped out of my hand when I pulled the trigger. Then the drill spun up against something that pushed the trigger again! The gear reduction is something like 1750:1 so an 18 volt drill has enough power to tear welds, bend steel and destroy a slide mechanism! After $1250 repairs the slide was once again functioning. Learn from my mistakes, please.