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09-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 126
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Leveling 29BHBS
Hey everyone. My wife and I are picking up a new trailer this weekend. We decided to move up from out Wildwood17 EXL Hybrid to a Wildwood 29BHBS and I have a question regarding leveling the new trailer. With our old trailer I used the Lynx leveling blocks and it was easy because it was single axle. I am thinking now with two axles about using some planks to drive on to and then perhaps if needed using the lynx levelers. What do most people use for this and how long of a plank would I need to properly fit under both tires?
Any suggestions would be great. We are both really anxious to get it set up and test it out. Our little trailer was too crowded with two adults, two grey hounds and a pomeranian.
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09-27-2012, 08:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 278
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Those darned pomeranians are space hogs. I'm old enough to know better but, still too young to resist.
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09-27-2012, 09:21 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,447
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Congrats on the new Wildwood 29BHBS! I'm not able to answer your questions about leveling because so far I'm been pretty lucky not needing to use my eveling blocks. Hopefully others with experience will drop in and offer words of advice.
__________________
Great choice for "Living within my means" and camping for one...
Formerly owned 2011 Salem Cruise Lite 20RBXL & 2011 Toyota Tundra Dbl Cab
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09-27-2012, 09:49 PM
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#4
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CampingQueen
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 199
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I use the lynx leveler blocks with the double axle. Just use more of them - had to pick up a 2nd set when we upgraded from a single to double axle TT.
Single row high, it takes 6 of the blocks. If we need to go 2 blocks high I think it's 8 on the bottom row, 6 on the top row... can't remember exactly, but anyway they work just fine.
__________________
2012 Flagstaff V-lite 30 WTBS
2011 Ford Expedition
4 kids and a hubby & never enough time to camp!
2011: 17 nights 2012: 26 nights 2013: 46 2014: 20 2015: 16
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09-27-2012, 11:05 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hob
Those darned pomeranians are space hogs. I'm old enough to know better but, still too young to resist.
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they can be real space hogs when under your feet all the time. lol
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09-27-2012, 11:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 126
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Guess I will have to pick up another set of blocks. I was hoping not to do that as we plan on leaving it on a seasonal site next year and would be blocking it up a little more permanently then.
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09-28-2012, 05:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 101
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IMHO full length planks are not necessary and can be cumbersome to store and use. Long lengths require a more level surface across both tires which means dips might cause a board to crack lengthwise.
I’ve switched to independent leveling because Individual blocks allow me to raise the RV exactly. So what if I’m anal retentive? J
Essentially, I went from full to independent, and then from board to the Lego-type. The Lego’s stack for increasing height, and are lightweight-- conforming to our ultra-lite RV. Unfortunately, they are sometimes more expensive than a 2x6/8 and they occasionally deform. We’ve replaced two segments because the odd rock is tough on the plastic.
Hope this helps.
Mike
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09-30-2012, 07:46 PM
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#8
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Explorer
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 342
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I use a set of aluminum wedges that I place independently to get 0-5inches. They have their own chocks that lock into ridges. i have used them for 15 years my parents had them before that and my great uncle before that, they still look brand new. I dont have any pics but if there is an intrest I'll post pics.
keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down
John
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09-30-2012, 08:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 441
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I use full length boards. Its easier for me to pull up on them than blocks that are barely bigger than the tire. I cracked one at one campground out of the 10 or so I've been to but they still work fine. I slide them in the back compartment of the 5er. I carry 2 - 2 x 10's and 2 - 3/4 pieces of plywood cut the same size.
__________________
2015 Sierra 357TRIP
2012 Ram 2500 CCSB 6.7CTD
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10-01-2012, 06:42 PM
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#10
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Another rat in the race
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Redlands CA
Posts: 368
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I have a 26'er but I only use 1 set of legos I build a small one between the wheels and one in front you can get 2 tall pretty easy 3 tall is harder only needed 3 tall once.
__________________
A rainy day camping is better than any sunny day at work
2004 F250 V10 SD Xcab 2011 Wildwood T26BHXL
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10-01-2012, 07:27 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Paintsville, KY
Posts: 157
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I have seen and am going to try getting some horse stall mats from tractor supply and cut them up into block size pieces. They are rubber and very strong but shouldn't move around like the Lego blocks. It would also be cheaper than a comparable number of the Lego blocks.
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10-01-2012, 08:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 126
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We got lucky this weekend when we parked the new trailer. I was amazed but it was as close to perfectly level as it could be side to side. Front to back, we are off a wee bit but i have to dig down a bit under the block that I put under the tongue jack. Spent the first night in it and slept like a baby. Wish we would have bought this trailer a few years ago.
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10-01-2012, 10:54 PM
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#13
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Explorer
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 342
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leveling
Here are some pics and one has a name but the ramps are 30plus years old so I can only hope it helps.
I love these they work great there easy to store and easy to handle. I think they only weigh 10 lbs together. The only issue we ever had was with an old trailer where the tires were close together and made it tight to use but still managed fine.
John
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