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Old 06-10-2021, 04:18 PM   #1
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My definition of stupid !!!!

Have you ever asked yourself - just what does stupid really mean? I personally think there are four classes of stupid. (1) He/She is being stupid. (2) Now that was stupid. (3) Nobody could be that stupid. (4) Just plain ASS STUPID!. As Forest Gump would have said, Stupid is what stupid does, and in this case - Stupid Did.


I would like to tell you of a situation that brought me to the conclusion that there is truly a number 4. “Just plain ASS STUPID!”.


I own a 33 ft. 2018 Forest River Wildwood travel trailer used for camping and sometimes business travel, you know, to help curb cost and also allow my wife and I to relax in the comfort of our own surroundings during those business trips.


Each trip brings many memories, pictures and fun stories to tell our kids and friends upon our return. But this particular story has a twist that should interest my fellow campers whom have many tails of their own over the years.


After six days of relaxing views overlooking Ouashita (Wash-a-ta) Lake just NW of Hot Springs, Arkansas, we pack-it-up, closed-it-up, hooked-it-up and hit the road North for home (moving day). It was a beautiful day for traveling through the Boston Mountains, no wind, sun shining down and very little traffic as it was the middle of the week.


Now, as everyone knows, at the end of each trail, you must unload your goods from the refrigerator (wife’s job). In our case, you have to run the slide out to access the frig. I am unhooking the trailer, leveling and securing the unit (my job) for storage when my wife informs me the slide out will not slide out. After several attempts by me using the direct button and the remote, I can get neither the slide out or the canopy to extend, but I do have 12v. (just ruled out main electrical problem). Now is the time to head for the fuse box……. Guess what STUPID? the fuse box is behind the slide out that won’t slide out. Upon further evaluation I can see a RED glowing light through the glass window on the fuss panel but I can’t get to it STUPID!. I must now implement the OLD CRANK routine I only heard about once, which is outlined in a manual which they don’t put out in print anymore. I find the slide motor with a #15 hex head drive on the shaft, pull out my Ĺ drive 8" ratchet, crawl under the trailer at 92 degrees in the shade and start cranking. Now I notice that this slide is moving about 1/64 inch per one full revolution of the shaft and I could only get 1/3 revolution per pull on the ratchet because the frame was in the way. So, I’m thinking that I have to move the slide about 20” to get access to the panel, you can do the math, my wrists are aching as I write this hateful story. After an hour + of cranking, two rest breaks and one beer each, I managed to move the slide enough to see that the red light was coming from a blown 30 amp fuse. Slide and canopy worked as designed after the fuse was replaced.


Now after 30 years in engineering working for two large mechanical design firms and a major commercial airline manufacturing company, I believe I have the Knowledge, Experience and Know How to call this Design Engineer “STUPID”, and the engineer that designed the backup process "OLD CRANK" for getting that “STUPID” engineer out of this mess, is also “STUPID”.



I want to thank Forest River Engineering for hiring these two STUPIDS that gave us such a great user-friendly application. From one engineer to another, I say, what a "STUPID ASS" design.



Thing that amazes me most, is all they had to do was move the fuse panel about 10” to the right on the wall and it would be fully accessible from the hallway…. Daaah!


I’m going to have a nice rest of the day because, if it goes out again, I have a cordless drill with that #15 just waiting to drill that mother.....
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:27 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post
Iím going to have a nice rest of the day because, if it goes out again, I have a cordless drill with that #15 just waiting to drill that mother.....
Why didn't you do that in the first place?
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post
I find the slide motor with a #15 hex head drive on the shaft, pull out my Ĺ drive 8" ratchet, crawl under the trailer at 92 degrees in the shade and start cranking. Now I notice that this slide is moving about 1/64 inch per one full revolution of the shaft and I could only get 1/3 revolution per pull on the ratchet because the frame was in the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post
Iím going to have a nice rest of the day because, if it goes out again, I have a cordless drill with that #15 just waiting to drill that mother.....
If it were me, I would've started with the drill in the first place...
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:31 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Iwritecode View Post
If it were me, I would've started with the drill in the first place...
I think we think alike....LOL
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:35 PM   #5
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Many of our campers/fivers have the same issue.
We just have to be prepared if it happens.
Hope you learned a little something, that's what this forum is all about.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:46 PM   #6
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You're not the only one but mine is a little worse.
My TracerAir TT has the same configuration. When the slide is in, it covers not only the fuse/breaker but also the Schwintek controller location. Which also means there's NO manual crank solution.
So when the slide fuse blew, I had no manual crank option to move the slide out. And with the slide in, I couldn't access the two motors from outside, to disconnect them in order to manually push the slide out.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:55 PM   #7
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Say as you will, but this post is not about would have, could have or even should have..... it's about the STUPID design engineering. We didn't put the fuse box on the 777 in the landing gear wheel well.....
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Old 06-10-2021, 05:12 PM   #8
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The three of us that have responded to your post have only tried to help you and others that may have the same issue sometime.
This "help" is what the forums is all about.
Enjoy Camping and Safe Travels.
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Old 06-10-2021, 05:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post
Say as you will, but this post is not about would have, could have or even should have..... it's about the STUPID design engineering. We didn't put the fuse box on the 777 in the landing gear wheel well.....
I think we're agreeing. Personally I just wanted to add my story to your topic so others will check this out before buying a rig.
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Old 06-10-2021, 05:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
I think we're agreeing. Personally I just wanted to add my story to your topic so others will check this out before buying a rig.

bikendan, thanks for you response to my post, it was appreciated. Thought we would have seen more of the same. My second post was not directed at yours, it just came after you had already posted...
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Old 06-10-2021, 06:02 PM   #11
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I’m going to have a nice rest of the day because, if it goes out again, I have a cordless drill with that #15 just waiting to drill that mother.....
One possibility, and what I'd do if I had a similar situation with a ridiculous power center location, is to just insert a jumper in the fuse location for the slide motor and install a 30 amp resettable circuit breaker in the line to the slide switch/motor. Place it in a location that would be accessible even when slide is in.

The RV industry isn't alone in 'stupid designs". I was exposed to this type problem in the Auto Industry when I had to change spark plugs in Mustang GT500. Ford literally lubed the sides of their Big Block engine and forced it into the engine compartment of I believe a 1968 Mustang. Barely room for the spark plug wires between Rocker Covers and shock/spring towers.

Ford's instructions to just change plugs required performing 1/2 an engine removal, doing one side at a time.

Was easier to change spark plugs on an M-48 Patton tank engine (all 24 of them). There it took less than a half hour to remove the engine, set it on the ground, then do any work you needed. Went back in about the same amount of time as the engine had "tracks" to guide it into it's mounts.

Of course being that I was in the Army at the time, the paperwork took longer than the work.
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Old 06-10-2021, 06:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
One possibility, and what I'd do if I had a similar situation with a ridiculous power center location, is to just insert a jumper in the fuse location for the slide motor and install a 30 amp resettable circuit breaker in the line to the slide switch/motor. Place it in a location that would be accessible even when slide is in.



Like that idea, that way I would never be blocked from the panel if that fuse went out again. STOP THE DRILLS unless the motor were to go out.


Thanks TitanMike, idea now in the planning phase.
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Old 06-11-2021, 04:45 AM   #13
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Oh my. Thank you for this story. I just realized that our 2007 Georgetown XL Class A has the same issue. The fuse panel cannot be accessed if the bedroom slide is in. Please note that where it is located down near the floor means it is never easy to access - yes, very Stupid engineering.
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Old 06-11-2021, 06:41 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
One possibility, and what I'd do if I had a similar situation with a ridiculous power center location, is to just insert a jumper in the fuse location for the slide motor and install a 30 amp resettable circuit breaker in the line to the slide switch/motor. Place it in a location that would be accessible even when slide is in.

The RV industry isn't alone in 'stupid designs". I was exposed to this type problem in the Auto Industry when I had to change spark plugs in Mustang GT500. Ford literally lubed the sides of their Big Block engine and forced it into the engine compartment of I believe a 1968 Mustang. Barely room for the spark plug wires between Rocker Covers and shock/spring towers.

Ford's instructions to just change plugs required performing 1/2 an engine removal, doing one side at a time.

Was easier to change spark plugs on an M-48 Patton tank engine (all 24 of them). There it took less than a half hour to remove the engine, set it on the ground, then do any work you needed. Went back in about the same amount of time as the engine had "tracks" to guide it into it's mounts.

Of course being that I was in the Army at the time, the paperwork took longer than the work.
I had a friend with a 68 Mustang with a big block engine. We drilled 4 holes in each front wheel well to slip a spark plug socket and extension through to access the plugs. We plugged the holes with knockout plugs. Easy Peasy after that one time modification.

We were uneducated 19 year olds, how did we know you wee supposed to jack up the engine?
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:02 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post
Say as you will, but this post is not about would have, could have or even should have..... it's about the STUPID design engineering. We didn't put the fuse box on the 777 in the landing gear wheel well.....
OK Mr. Gump, but you will have to admit that thinking about the problem, and finding an easy work around solution AFTER wearing your arm out pulling that ratchet hundreds of times was also STUPID. So there is one more for your list.

Now, DO NOT interperate this as an ugly reply........ it is offered with a smile on my face, an extra beer in my hand and a pat on the back with the additional comment......we have ALL been there too.............different problems but all been there.
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:48 AM   #16
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Another "Stupid Design" Story

I had a new '75 (or '76) Ford Pinto Wagon with a V6 engine. In those days, I liked to change my own oil & filter. Found that, to replace the filter, I first had to remove the battery! That V6 engine in that tiny hood compartment left no room to access the filter.
(Ah, those were the days!)
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Old 06-11-2021, 09:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Duke View Post

After six days of relaxing views overlooking Ouashita (Wash-a-ta) Lake just NW of Hot Springs, Arkansas, we pack-it-up, closed-it-up, hooked-it-up and hit the road North for home (moving day). It was a beautiful day for traveling through the Boston Mountains, no wind, sun shining down and very little traffic as it was the middle of the week.

Being Arkansas based, I'm glad you got to experience our fabulous parks, lakes and beautiful scenery. BTW, it is spelled Ouachita but I can tell you do know the proper pronunciation.

Welcome to the wacky world of RV'ing and the lack of thought that goes into so many units. You were very eloquent in posting your frustration with the issue!
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:14 AM   #18
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Auto resetting fuses

I have replaced several of my 12 volt fuses over the years (that have blown for no apparent reason) with the auto resetting breakers. Problem solved for the occasional blown fuse for no apparent reason. If the auto resetting breakers keep tripping & resetting, then youíve got a problem, but if it happens once a year or less, itís not an issue.

My stabilizers would sometimes blow a fuse if I accidentally held the switch on for a half second after it reached its travel limit. No more.
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Old 06-11-2021, 01:26 PM   #19
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I read these post with great interest. Some designs are really stupid. Fortunately my TT does not have that stupid design (FR 26FKWS). Over the years I have read many stories of 'issues' and with each new TT have attempted to put myself in a better place if I run into one of then....in the case of the slide i made a short shaft with the correct 'socket' which I can drive with an electric drill so as to avoid the muscle power required should my slide electrics fail when open.
Sorry for you troubles but thanks for the info.
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Old Yesterday, 12:07 AM   #20
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Stupid and 1/2

Like Old Duke and others, I experienced Stupid and 1/2 situation...

My story described here: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...re-165193.html


Let's all share our solution.
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