27BHWS +Solar

[t.simpson]

I have had a low buck portable solar setup for a while and I am thinking about taking advantage of the Zamp plug and leveraging that to mount my controller in the forward hold. Anyone do this on a 27BHWS? I don't really want to puncture the underbelly material, but maybe I have too??? Thanks!

[NJKris]

why not install the controller in the battery box itself? Or they make weatherproof ones you can mount on outside of box. Just remove whatever leads go from the Zamp plug to the battery, and run them into the controller, then controller output wires to battery.

[t.simpson]

That is my plan for the Zamp outlet, I just want to move it a little upstream from the batteries. I have two 6 volts in individual 6 volt boxes and that aren't water proof and with the off gassing of lead acid batteries, not good for electronics.

[NJKris]

What is behind the Zamp inlet? Looking at mine right now and it's accessible from an outside compartment once you remove a trim piece. I actually tapped into those wires to mount a 12v receptacle next to my bed for my CPAP. Maybe mount controller in there?

[t.simpson]

My plug is just above the frame with the forward hold above it. I may have to pierce the undercarriage liner to run the wires. Any pros or cons to poking holes in the liner?

[NJKris]

Oh wow, yours is really low. I don't have a liner on mine I don't think. I can't imagine running wires into compartment above it would be an issue, especially if you caulk around the wires to prevent moisture/insect intrusion. I would definitely check if there are any trim panels in that compartment could be removed to run the wires behind for a neat install, and to hide any holes you might need to make in the flooring. I'm assuming the red/hot lead is running through the frame and is attached to the battery somehow.

[t.simpson]

I had a bit of time today so I pulled the corner panel "wall board" off of the forward hold and my solution presented itself!! The wires that the corner panel was hiding slip right through the bottom seam and out to the power stabilizers. Perfect! It couldn't be easier. I am going to buy a new controller over the winter and do the install next spring. Here are some pics:

The first pic shows the Zamp plug, the hatch for the hold and the power stabilizer. The second pic shows what I found when I removed the panel and the last shows the wire going outside.

[NJKris]

Perfect! A lot of solutions present themselves when you take those trim panels out. There are frequently already wires and holes already there you can re-purpose.

[nmdcporter]

So the question, I have a 2018 27RLWS with the same Zamp set up. I'm pretty new to solar so if I wanted to add a controller and a couple of 100 Watt panels that are not Zamp, couldn't I just connect at this terminal and use the same wires to the battery? Wouldn't I be able to run another wire out the same location for a second system? I have the Zamp suit case 100 Watt panel now and it has the built in controller, so I was thinking if I used that terminal in the picture, I could add the second controller and panels correct? Thanks ahead of time.

nmdcporter

[t.simpson]

If the controller on your panel can handle the additional amperage of the additional panels, then you could wire them into your existing controller and then plug the cable from the controller into the Zamp port as you have in the past and you are done. This is sort of my plan. Most controllers aren't water/weather proof, so I am mounting mine in the forward hold, which is what my question was here. I am adding two 100W panels and ditching the cheap suitcase controller for a MPPT controller for better charge efficiencies and more user friendly features. These will be wired in parallel and fed through the newly found wire hole, into the hold.



Check out this video to see how wiring and shade impact panel output - kind of cool! https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/Sai...rallel-Shading

[NJKris]

Most of these controllers can accommodate the current produced by 2 100w panels, just check your specs to be sure, then you can wire both panels in parallel to the one controller. I'm pretty sure the wiring gauge will carry that much current, just check with Zamp to see how much current their wiring will accommodate.

**T simpson beat me to it

[nmdcporter]

I was thinking the same way with 1 minor twist. I was going to plug a controller into the battery feeds and run the wire out the hole and primarily use the 2 100 Watt panels. I was going to keep the suit case as a additional panel for an additional 100 Watts. By doing it this way I have all 3 panels in parallel. At least that was my thought. My limited knowledge of solar was why I was asking if that would work. That terminal block is just a connection point for the Zamp wires and the battery wires so I thought it would work. That's why my question because I'm not sure that will work.

nmdcporter

[nmdcporter]

I was thinking the same way with 1 minor twist. I was going to plug a controller into the battery feeds and run the wire out the hole and primarily use the 2 100 Watt panels. I was going to keep the suit case as a additional panel for an additional 100 Watts. By doing it this way I have all 3 panels in parallel. At least that was my thought. My limited knowledge of solar was why I was asking if that would work. That terminal block is just a connection point for the Zamp wires and the battery wires so I thought it would work. That's why my question because I'm not sure that will work.

I didn't know I could hook extra panels in parallel to the suit case panel controller, I have I'll have to invetigate that. It seems pretty cheap.

nmdcporter

[NJKris]

My Renogy controller is good for 20 amps, so can handle (2) 100w panels. If I wanted to add more, I would need to get a 30 amp controller.