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Old 08-17-2022, 08:09 PM   #1
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Battery State of Charge on 1/3 while RV idle for days

Our new RF E-pro 20BHS RV is idle in front of our house w/ 6+ hours of direct sunlight every day (Wyoming), and fridge set to 0. It is cold in the fridge, yet the battery monitor only shows 1/3. Also measured Voltage and shows ~11.3V at the 2 6V battery outlets. Im new to RV, but versatile to electronics/electrics. this makes no sense, for a 1 sqm solar panel. Anyone ahave any tips? I should be on full charge. Secondly how do you turn off fridge for winter (or whatever other reason)
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Old 08-17-2022, 08:26 PM   #2
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Moved thread to the Flagstaff sub-forum.
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Old 08-17-2022, 08:33 PM   #3
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Factory monitor led’s are virtually worthless. Mine reads 4 leds while charging. Sort of peachy at three leds. Two leds is 1/3, or you are damaging your battery by being below 50%. One led is doa.

Battery voltage. 50% is about 12.0. Full is about ,12.6. Tenths matter.

Much Below 12 volt readings on a battery means doing damage to the battery.

Battery readings need to be taken at least two hours after charging or, they are invalid. Called residual charge.

Solar panels are rated in watts. 100 watts on its best day, not most, can provide 25 amps dc of charging. Your gc2 batteries can provide about 110 dc amps.

With a compressor fridge you must carefully watch you battery monitor to prevent over discharging. The monitor you likely need to purchase. These fridges can use up to 10 dc amps per hour. Hot weather. Less in cold weather.
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Old 08-17-2022, 08:37 PM   #4
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You should have a battery disconnect for storage. Most modern rv’s have them. All dc items should be off.
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Old 08-17-2022, 08:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remusac View Post
Our new RF E-pro 20BHS RV is idle in front of our house w/ 6+ hours of direct sunlight every day (Wyoming), and fridge set to 0. It is cold in the fridge, yet the battery monitor only shows 1/3. Also measured Voltage and shows ~11.3V at the 2 6V battery outlets. Im new to RV, but versatile to electronics/electrics. this makes no sense, for a 1 sqm solar panel. Anyone ahave any tips? I should be on full charge. Secondly how do you turn off fridge for winter (or whatever other reason)
It sounds like DC charging voltage from the solar controller is not getting to the batteries, or there is a DC load that is pulling more current than the solar panels can provide. Time to measure voltages at different places with a voltmeter.
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Old 08-17-2022, 09:54 PM   #6
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Insta a real shunt based battery monitor its a game charger when it comes to knowing actual capacity your batteries are at. My favorite for the price is the AiLi meter.

https://a.co/erONUS7

I have it installed on our unit and it works fine.
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Old 08-17-2022, 10:06 PM   #7
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The specs for that trailer show it has a 12v fridge, and a 190watt solar panel. Is that a compressor type fridge (I assume it is since it shows 12v only and the photos on the model page show a full size RV fridge).

If your fridge is running 24/7 the specs on a 10cu/ft Furion model is a 11 amp peak draw and average of 1.08kw per day. A 190 watt solar panel with 6 hours of full daylight is still not 100% efficient and will not be able to charge the batteries and keep up with just the fridge from those numbers. There is where your issue likely is, especially if you add in any other phantom 12v loads like most trailers have.
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Old 08-17-2022, 10:52 PM   #8
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There are some tricks for an rv fridge.

They operate better full.

We always add 2-3 gallons of frozen drinking water.

We always pre-chill the fridge the day before. Put in cold items. Always on shore power.

Compressor fridges use lots of batteries.

Your two batteries are good for 12 hours to maybe 30 hours weather dependent. Does not include inverters, coffee pots, furnaces or cpapís or travel across Texas.

You are the captain. Got to mange the batteries. They are the weak link.

Without a battery monitor you are flying while blind.
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:10 PM   #9
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Every thing said above is correct and contributes to the problem.

I would suggest adding a SHUNT TYPE Battery Monitor (I prefer the Renogy, there is also a Chinese off brand identical to it).

I also have an E-Pro with the 12V compressor fridge. On my Magic Chef fridge (identical to Everchill) turning the fridge to "0" turns it off. If it doesn't on yours, pull the fuse in the Charger/Converter (below the fridge) or use the battery disconnect on the Trailer Tongue, as mentioned above. IF you want to keep things in the fridge, KEEP IT FULL (as mentioned above), add as many water jugs as it takes.

The 190w Solar on my E-Pro keeps the battery charged even with the fridge running (as long as nothing else is on), but I have a 250AH LITHIUM battery that will CHARGE MUCH FASTER that Lead Acid Batteries do.

Good Luck.
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