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Old 12-23-2022, 11:43 AM   #21
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Lock washers????????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan View Post
I'd say faulty lock washers.

Not a true locking device. Hardly fit for a child's toy. Only good solution is an aircraft, metal true locking nut. Next best is the nylon nut. Proper torque is the final piece of the puzzle.



Not as vital as when assembling an engine but very important on things you don't want falling off on the highway.


don't be him
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Old 12-23-2022, 12:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandog View Post
Hi, go to the hardware store and buy a couple new lock washers. Also you need the braker bars socket and open end/box end wrench s to fit the bolts and nuts. I check my bolts before every trip. Torquing is proper but good and tight is just fine. Also there is a proper way that install the lock washers. The raised portion facing up. This allows the nut to void over the cut portion and not spread the washer apart. Fine the hutch for the first tow then remove nuts and spray bolts with brake clean let dry and add 2 drops of red locktite and retighten. I do this to all my hitch bolts. Keeps them tight but you can break it loose if needed.

Red Loctite is permanent. To remove the nut you will have to heat it to around 500º.

One other problem is most dealers will use an impact wrench to tighten the bolts. The speed of the impact may distort the lock washer. As said above, putting the washer in the correct orientation keeps it from pushing out.
If you are taking it apart to replace the washer, replace the bolt and nut at the same time. The bolt is already stressed.
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Old 12-23-2022, 12:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1 View Post
Not a true locking device. Hardly fit for a child's toy. Only good solution is an aircraft, metal true locking nut. Next best is the nylon nut. Proper torque is the final piece of the puzzle.
Not as vital as when assembling an engine but very important on things you don't want falling off on the highway.
don't be him

I disagree. Most every adjustable height hitch out there is going to have lock washers. These are grade 5- 3/4 in lockwashers. Hardly a child's toy.
Mine have served me well for many thousands of miles over several years.
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Old 12-23-2022, 12:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gw1800 View Post
As said above, putting the washer in the correct orientation keeps it from pushing out.
If you are taking it apart to replace the washer, replace the bolt and nut at the same time. The bolt is already stressed.

I'm going to post this last time and walk away but I just gotta say....
Lay a lockwasher on the table. Look at it closely. Now flip it over so
"the other side is up". It looks absolutely the same to me!


How do you know the bolt has been "stressed"??? Are you suggesting these grade 5 bolts are one and done. Can only be used once??


I'm gonna go shovel snow but I'm NOT going to worry about my hitch bolts which have been removed and put back on at least 3 times.
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2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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Old 12-24-2022, 09:17 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Hey Bobby! Welcome to FRF!

Here's my 2¢ (from someone who has that hitch)

1st Yes the lock washers need to be replaced. I don't think they broke due to over tightening. Sometimes they just bite when being tightened and it can open them up and snap them. It's -possible- the tech tightened and then loosened the bolts for some reason. Maybe he had it in the wrong holes? Removing the nut can definitely crack a lock washer.
They do need to be replaced.

The bolts in mine are 3/4" coarse thread 4" long. They have 3 marks on the heads which google says means they are SAE grade 5.

We hope your dealer has spare lock washers. If not a decent hardware store or tractor supply will have them.

2nd REALLY IMPORTANT-- before you attempt to use that hitch- go to Harbor Freight or any good tool store and buy the longest 1/2" drive strong arm/breaker bar you can get. 24" is perfect.

You also need a half inch drive 1" socket.
Now take that cheezy flat tool that comes with the hitch for installing and removing your spring bars and toss it in the back of your storage bin.

When hitching or un-hitching you want to use your hitch jack with the ball still locked in and raise the hitch a few inches to relax the flex in the spring bars before you either install or remove them.
My first time I failed to raise the hitch and using that flat wrench that came with the hitch I turned the cam to release the chain. It snapped so hard the flat wrench was yanked out of my hands and slammed onto the pavement and landed several feet away. My fingers were numb for several minutes and I was seriously thankful I had no broken toes.
That was the last time I ever used it.

Learn from my mistake and save yourself the pain!!
To add a little Safety PSA to this; you always want to start with your truck and trailer on level ground before using the jack to relieve pressure from the bars. Mine came with a 90 degree round bar socket wrench and when I had back into a site where the front of my truck was on the street and considerably higher than the hitch. I got the first bar unhooked successfully but the second was in such a bind that the wrench was ripped from my hands and we were off to Urgent Care to get 9 stitches in my hand. I did also find that part of the cause was the dealer had not set up my hitch correctly. I set it up exactly like the Blue Ox video shows and now a less stressful unhooking event.
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Old 12-26-2022, 07:34 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
How do you know the bolt has been "stressed"??? Are you suggesting these grade 5 bolts are one and done. Can only be used once?
Personally, if there is a chance the bolts were indeed overtightened, which none of us truly know, they could have been stressed. Meaning they could be stretched and weakened by some numbskull who doesn't know better. Bolts are cheap, I'd replace them, the lock washers and nuts and carry on.
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Old 02-04-2023, 12:23 PM   #27
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Notice one possible "discrepancy" in the "installation" instructions from Blue OX. It shows 3/4 inch bolts on the hitch assembly. The bolts on mine are at least 1 1/8 inch. Can't tell yet as don't have anything larger than 1 1/16 socket. Now, the dealer replaced the washers (and bolts??)because they were damaged as stated earlier. In the tools needed instructions states 1 1/8 inch socket and wrench. No where in the installation instructions list of parts do they show anything being 1 1/8 bolts! Hitch is Track Pro BXW0650. Don't want to purchase tools don't really need but apparently have actual 1 1/8 bolts??. Yes, will probably just purchase a 1 1/8 inch socket to make sure actually have 1 1/8 bolts. Gave up on Blue Ox getting back to me. Thanks,
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Old 02-05-2023, 07:31 AM   #28
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navybanker,

A bolt get it's measurement from the shank, the shank has a diameter of 3/4". The 1-1/8" wrench size is for the hex head and nut. Don't let the bolt issue add to your concerns as they used the correct size hardware.
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Old 02-05-2023, 08:41 AM   #29
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socket / wrench size of a bolt
multiply the bolt diameter by 1.5 metric or inch

.75 x 1.5 = 1.125 (1 1/8")
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Old 02-05-2023, 02:52 PM   #30
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"You can't fix stupid". I think I need to set up a different account on here or sell the truck and camper and stay home! Thanks
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