Coleman Mach 8 and a Suburban NT-20 SQ in a Flagstaff 19 FD

[JAChandler]

Into the weeds on this one.

I am having serious issues keeping steady temp in my lil rv to the point where it's almost given me pneumonia.

Long story there, just accept I need better control than an analog switch for fan and cold.

It appears the Mach 8 has no heat just a/c whereas the heat is provided by the Suburban which has 2 vents, one forward and one to the rear.

I BELIEVE but am not sure there is a digital upgrade for the a/c (take out the knobs put in a digital pack, run wires to thermostat).

Suburban heater already runs off a analog thermostat.

What would it take to get both of these running off a single digital thermostat?

Part no's would be ever so helpful. In the end they both seem to be made by AirExcel.

[JAChandler]

Mods please close the thread I think I sorted it.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JAChandler

Mods please close the thread I think I sorted it.

Why not tell us what you did so others can benefit from your experience?

[NJKris]

Thread will never be closed! Just unsubscribe. Closed thread are useless to those of us who like to BS. I have same setup. It's not worth effort to do this. Here's what I do, or I get pneumonia in middle of night too. CLOSE THE BAFFLE that is blowing on you in the Murphy bed! Leave the rear one wide open (facing bathroom). Makes a HUGE difference. With fan on low (which provides good white noise for sleeping), play with thermostat knob on AC. I am able to adjust mine so temp in trailer stays within 5 degrees of my desired temp.

[JAChandler]

I watched a YouTube video. Then bought a Coleman Mach Bluetooth addon for $300 which isn't exactly magic.

I don't recommend the "solution." They are expensive, apparently no longer made, and with good reason.

The design is flawed in that there is a proprietary 20 mm 2 A glass fuse on the edge of the Bluetooth board that is made of very flimsy metal and will break off the board at the slightest touch.

I had to trace the entire package to locate the issue as BOTH prongs were broken off during shipping and the problem not obvious.

I only figured it out looking at other Coleman thermostat circuit diagrams leaked to the net.

Had to board level solder both clips back on.

Originally Posted by 5picker

Why not tell us what you did so others can benefit from your experience?

[NJKris]

Yikes, that is expensive! Have you tried closing whatever vent blows on you when you sleep? That is the only time we find it to be too much. Otherwise, the temp knob works for us. Is your temp control knob working?

[JAChandler]

Yes

Being able to control fan speed and to some extent temp was very important. Otherwise the caravan was simply unlivable.

AirExcel eg. Coleman and about 9 other brands isn't something I would recommend.

Extremely poor build quality and it's like buying a car. Everything including quieter housings with more vents is at least a $100 upgrade.

Just like Lippert and their $30 plastic screen door knob. Very much a scam.

[NJKris]

Unfortunately, you don't get many choices, and they all stink. My Coleman didn't work the very first time I turned it on. Either bad compressor or all the refrigerant leaked out. They replaced whole unit under warranty. Hoping my toilet (Dometic 300) continues to work without issues. Lots of problems reported in other threads. Not a lot of choices. Dometic or Thetford are the only brands I've heard of in that case. BTW, you sound like you are from U.K. Living there now? Or US?

[JAChandler]

Oh from a lot of places I suppose. Most of my "rv" experience is from New Zealand and Aussie coast.

Cheap at twice the price, which is to say free. All the tourists coming in plus all the settlers driving up housing prices to Insane levels though, who can say how long that will last.

But yep, getting rather tired of all these hidden "discoveries" I am making in my Epro. What do they do, hire stoned kids out for the summer to put these together.

Was sweet as for about a month then suddenly I am forced to start building a tool kit and carrying a bloody spare part inventory wherever I go?

Next time I want a box. No holes in it thanks very much I will make my own. Or perhaps just a trailer and a torch?

I knew I was in the **** when I asked for a wiring diagram for the thing and somebody laughed.

[NJKris]

Yep, you definitely gotta be handy when buying these things. I had to buy a PEX tool and clamps to replace all the clamps on hoses in the water filter bay. They were ALL dripping after a year. I finally have the bugs worked out. Have re-set all the screws on drawer rails that missed their intended target. I'm going to the big Goshen International FROG rally in August, they will repair up to two gripes on newer models when you are there. Going to have them fix the steps (screws mounting the threshold plate are not biting into anything) and the awning brackets are not properly aligned, canopy not closing all the way.

[JAChandler]

About PLEX.. why not use standard hose clamps that screw in?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JAChandler

About PLEX.. why not use standard hose clamps that screw in?

PEX tubing and their fittings require a clamp that puts equal pressure around the entire circumference of the tube.

Traditional worm clamps have an inherent tight spot that tends to egg-shape the PEX, especially when used with plastic fittings. Doesn't happen so much with brass fittings/couplers. The thickness and rigidity of PEX doesn't pair well with the smaller traditional worm clamps either. They will strip before stopping a leak.

[JAChandler]

What a bloody shame. Non reusable parts again. Why am I not surprised. [emoji849]

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by JAChandler

What a bloody shame. Non reusable parts again. Why am I not surprised. [emoji849]

The good news is that once a PEX clamp is properly crimped it rarely needs attention again. That is unless you need to make modifications.

[NJKris]

Those PEX clamps either were not suitable for the hoses they were put on, or the tool was out of calibration/improperly used. Since I cut off ends of hoses, and put new PEX clamps on, they have not leaked.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Those PEX clamps either were not suitable for the hoses they were put on, or the tool was out of calibration/improperly used. Since I cut off ends of hoses, and put new PEX clamps on, they have not leaked.

The ratcheting PEX clamp tool I bought came with a calibration "gauge". A piece of metal milled to a fairly precice thickness. Lead me to believe it was a good idea to check tool setting after a bunch of uses.

Is this happening in the factory? Who knows but if not it might explain a rash of leaks. Might pass any air leakage test initially but not after many pressure/release cycles like occur in an RV, not to mention some high city water pressures in campgrounds.

[JAChandler]

Sounds like a good idea. Was it expensive?

[NJKris]

The tool was pricier than I expected. I think the crimp tool was between 60 and 70 USD, then I bought a bag of wrong sized clamps, had to go back and get a size up or down. I already had a Dremel tool, which was very useful with the cut off wheel to get the old clamps off. And I already had a tubing/hose cutting tool. Oh, my tool has the reference calibration 'gauge' also, which led me to believe the tool at factory was out of spec.

[JAChandler]

Yes, I am slowly trying to amass a toolkit specific to my 19FD.

Been living in it for awhile to find out what I want to change, check, replace, carry spares and fittings for on the road for as long as I want to.