E Pro / Geo Pro Kitchen Faucet Replacement

[mcbridek]

Anyone replace the kitchen faucet in their E Pro / Geo Pro ? The complication here is is looks like they used a bathroom faucet in the kitchen, the posts that extend down thru the sink are 4 inches on center. I was looking to install a better quality faucet, higher arc to give a bit more room... Searching on kitchen faucets on this forum, could not find this bathroom type used in the kitchen.

The one thing I found was the bar / prep faucets which I might try. These have 4 inch holes and higher arc..

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Delta-Lorai...ucet/999930328

The picture below is the factory faucet. Also could not determine the brand on this one, there is a logo on the back, looks like a "U".

[5picker]

You might remove the faucet and see if you have three holes.
Many kitchen faucets do not have a riser bar under them and fit simply into three holes. (or more if you'd get one with a sprayer or soap dispenser) Plenty of styles to choose from.

You might cut a 3rd hole if there are only two.

[mcbridek]

I did the replacement with the Delta Lorain prep/bar faucet. Very straight forward as it has the same thread and length stems.. It raises the faucet tip about 3 inches and has a larger arc so brings the water flow out over the drain... The faucet I removed seemed very cheap, weighted about a ounce, all plastic. The Delta is all metal, brass... I was going to put the kitchen faucet in the bathroom, but after seeing how cheap it is, not going to bother. At some point I will replace the bathroom.

A few tips. You have to work through the drawer opening, but not hard to reach and enough room to work, get plyers in..... Remove the heater vent cover, then you can at least see up behind the sink. You can't both see in and work, but it was not bad. It is hard to get the water connections back on the new faucet and threaded. The key is to not tighten the faucet down until after the water line is attached. Attach hot first, then cold, then tighten down the faucet the rest of the way. The reason is they use Pex right up to the connection, hard to get it threaded on correctly, working blind with one hand... Also, I had a hard time getting the leaking stopped - they are cheap plastic Pex connectors and your threading on to brass so you have to be careful not to over tighten or you'll break the connector... I may put a Pex cutoff value in and then use the standard flexible stainless steel braided line, that would be much better.... The line to shower is also there, so it gets a bit complicated and Lowes did not have all the correct connectors...