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Old 10-24-2019, 01:00 AM   #1
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Installing Aftermarket Inverter

Currently have an E-Pro 19FBS with solar fully loaded. Current setup:

--Converter/Charger WF-8735 which allows the AC power to all the appliances (fridge, a/c, microwave, outlets) from shore power of course.
--Just bought GoWISE Power PS1003 Pure SINE Wave Inverter 2000w Cont/4000w Peak to install.

At which point in the wiring can I install the inverter without exploding everything and melting wires etc...?

Also thinking of buying a 30A Contactor 3 Pole so I don't have to keep turning on and off the converter.

Anybody have the wiring diagram or can make one thats legible? And does anyone have pictures or the inner working of the WF-8735 before I break mine apart?
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Old 10-24-2019, 05:00 AM   #2
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When installing a larger inverter you woll usually require heavier wiring from the batts to the unit, and perhaps more batts to not kill them faster.
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Old 10-24-2019, 08:49 AM   #3
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What all are you wanting to run on the inverter?
How many batteries do you have and what's their capacity?
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Old 10-24-2019, 11:18 AM   #4
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I have all the correct gauge wiring and Im in the process of upgrading the battery bank. I just need to know how to wire in an Inverter and Shore Power to a 3-pole Contactor to trick the Converter/Charger into using the batteries.

Theres a guy on youtube that did it but for some reason the past three days my brain cant figure out how the damn contactor works... literally been looking over diagrams for hours.
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Old 10-24-2019, 11:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by NicoPez View Post
I have all the correct gauge wiring and Im in the process of upgrading the battery bank. I just need to know how to wire in an Inverter and Shore Power to a 3-pole Contactor to trick the Converter/Charger into using the batteries.

Theres a guy on youtube that did it but for some reason the past three days my brain cant figure out how the damn contactor works... literally been looking over diagrams for hours.
Why trick the converter/charger to use the batteries? When power is off all 12v items run off battery, power on, they run from converter. Are you looking for the converter to charge the batteries using 120Vac from inverter?

Sorry, that doesn't work.

If you use a transfer switch connected to both shore power and inverter OUTPUT, you could have automatic switching from Shore power to Inverter power although you'd still have to manually switch on the Inverter.

Inverter still should be mounted as close as possible to the batteries and using the largest practical wire gauge (that can be connected to the inverter terminals.)
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Old 10-24-2019, 11:58 AM   #6
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Why trick the converter/charger to use the batteries? When power is off all 12v items run off battery, power on, they run from converter. Are you looking for the converter to charge the batteries using 120Vac from inverter?

Sorry, that doesn't work.

If you use a transfer switch connected to both shore power and inverter OUTPUT, you could have automatic switching from Shore power to Inverter power although you'd still have to manually switch on the Inverter.

Inverter still should be mounted as close as possible to the batteries and using the largest practical wire gauge (that can be connected to the inverter terminals.)
Correct and correct. The WF model has all that built in with the circuit board and fuses, I just haven't taken it apart yet. The output is in there somewhere and I wanted to use the 3 pole contact as the auto transfer switch since I have the remote to turn on and off the inverter. (Sorry if I've lost anyone this is where it got really confusing for me too).

I know it can be done I just need to know where to insert the contactor/transfer switch and how the diagram would look.
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Old 10-24-2019, 12:27 PM   #7
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Are you wanting to run everything 120 volts connected to the WFCO power panel off the inverter?

As Mike said, you can't run the converter/charger off the inverter, so you'll have to separate that out.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:24 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by NicoPez View Post
Correct and correct. The WF model has all that built in with the circuit board and fuses, I just haven't taken it apart yet. The output is in there somewhere and I wanted to use the 3 pole contact as the auto transfer switch since I have the remote to turn on and off the inverter. (Sorry if I've lost anyone this is where it got really confusing for me too).

I know it can be done I just need to know where to insert the contactor/transfer switch and how the diagram would look.
Take the front cover off your WFCO power center and look on the left side. You should have a piece of Romex feeding the 120Vac from your Shore Power connection to the panel.

The wiring diagram for your power center is on the inside of the cover you remove by loosening two screws near top of "window" that appears when you open the outer access door.

You will need to move the wires from the AC input terminals on the panel, connect to your "3-way" switch, run wires from panel to switch, and then hook up Inverter to switch.

Connection to panel should be attached to common terminal of three way switch. Remaining terminals connected should then be connected to Inverter output and Shore power input.

Now the problem will be a place to install the 3-way switch. If you have to move far from the power panel remember, 30 amp 120 volt AC service means #10 awg wire. It's carrying all the load when plugged in to Shore Power.

A note: Remember that a 2,000 watt Inverter with higher PEAK current will only put out that PEAK current for a short moment. May only deliver that peak current for a second or two.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:30 PM   #9
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Give me one sec to read the last post but to answer everyone else's responses....

I'm not going to charge the batteries through or with the inverter, that's a loop that'll be draining and end up super hot etc...

Just want to bypass the converter/charger and have an auto transfer switch to be able work the inverter/shore power/generator all separately but don't interfere with one another.

Yes I need a bigger battery bank and yes I need bigger wires etc... I just need to know the wiring diagram for the installation of the 3-pole contactor.

Thank you all for the concerns and experience.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:42 PM   #10
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I don't have an answer to your question, but a question about your E-Pro...
I just picked up a 2020 Geo Pro, and they all come wordwith a 1000W inverter; the older units came with only a 300W inverter (AFAIK). Which one do you currently have? If the 1000W, what's the real benefit of doubling that if a generator/shore power will still be needed to run the A/C and microwave?

I'm new to camping/TT's/etc and am trying to learn as much as possibly here.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:43 PM   #11
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Take the front cover off your WFCO power center and look on the left side. You should have a piece of Romex feeding the 120Vac from your Shore Power connection to the panel.

The wiring diagram for your power center is on the inside of the cover you remove by loosening two screws near top of "window" that appears when you open the outer access door.

You will need to move the wires from the AC input terminals on the panel, connect to your "3-way" switch, run wires from panel to switch, and then hook up Inverter to switch.

Connection to panel should be attached to common terminal of three way switch. Remaining terminals connected should then be connected to Inverter output and Shore power input.

Now the problem will be a place to install the 3-way switch. If you have to move far from the power panel remember, 30 amp 120 volt AC service means #10 awg wire. It's carrying all the load when plugged in to Shore Power.

A note: Remember that a 2,000 watt Inverter with higher PEAK current will only put out that PEAK current for a short moment. May only deliver that peak current for a second or two.
I'll buy some #10 wire, I have #4 welding wires for the battery to inverter connection, waiting on the 3pole contactor tomorrow, I don't plan on running more than 2000w everyone says that 2000 is sufficient for anything which it is after doing the math.

Solid copper or stranded copper wire for the contactor connections? Any ideas as to connect the inverter or shore power to the A1/A2 coil or the NC (normally closed) on the contactor? Cuz it'll be warm if there's constant current.

I'll take some more photos when I open the converter/charger tomorrow to keep everyone informed.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:53 PM   #12
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I don't have an answer to your question, but a question about your E-Pro...
I just picked up a 2020 Geo Pro, and they all come wordwith a 1000W inverter; the older units came with only a 300W inverter (AFAIK). Which one do you currently have? If the 1000W, what's the real benefit of doubling that if a generator/shore power will still be needed to run the A/C and microwave?

I'm new to camping/TT's/etc and am trying to learn as much as possibly here.
I have a 2018 Epro but those models only come with GoPower Kit with 1 panel and the charge controller plus a separate companies Converter/Charger. Never came with an inverter or with the fancy Inverter/Charger. Thats why I had to buy an after market inverter and customizing this install.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:56 PM   #13
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]Out of the thousands of posts I find it aggravating that NOBODY has posted some in depth photos or explanations. Hopefully, after this thread others will be able to look at this and understand more about their rigs.

This is what the youtube guy had created.... can anybody make sense of this without the confusing orange connectors? they just make things retarded.

https://youtu.be/lqXngyKtZtc?t=314
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:38 PM   #14
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I honestly can’t figure out what you’re trying to do.

I installed an inverter and then added automatic transfer switches for 2 specific breakers.

Other installs have a separate sub panel with specific inverted breakers.

I’ve never heard of someone wanting to open their converter and change things. Nor am I positive what you’re doing with a 3-way switch.
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:59 PM   #15
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My Shore power goes directly into the back of the converter/charger box which i have posted a photo. I have the Outlets, Appliances, A/C, wires coming from the Converter/Charger box so somewhere in there I have to find out where the conversion part is so I can bypass it with installing the inverter, tricking the system to automatically switch to run off the inverter instead of shore power to power the appliances ALSO without having the charger charge the batteries from the inverter cuz that would be bad.

Im using the Contactor as the automatic switch when I turn on the inverter.

If you have a better setup let me know before i screw something up or spend a bunch of unnecessary funds.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:48 PM   #16
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I have a similar converter/distribution panel. My power comes from the shore power inlet to one side of a 50amp automatic transfer switch; the other side is fed from the generator. And the output of the ATS goes directly to the converter/distribution center.

I designed a “perfect world” implementation that I totally didn’t live up to! But here was the design:


Basically what I ended up with is the battery bank wired together. I didn’t do the busbars or circuit breakers for battery isolation. They’re wired together with jumper wires.

On the positive side, I come off of the first battery and feed my camper’s 12v system, the inverter, and the positive wire for generator.

On the negative side, I come off of the last battery and go directly to my battery monitor’s shunt. After the shunt is a busbar because I ended up with too many connections stacked on the load side of the shunt. That busbar feeds- the camper’s 12v system, the inverter, and the starter for the generator.

Now, I implemented the inverter using individual automatic transfer relays for specific breakers that I wanted to be hot. These breakers control most of the outlets in the house - the GFCI circuit and the “general” outlets like in the bedroom.

There are 2 product offerings for the 15amp automatic transfer switches. One made by Xantrex and another by KISAE. I opted for Xantrex based on price. For implementing in tight spaces, the KISAE is the better option and I kind of wish we would have gone for it.

The nice part about this is that there is nothing to manually switch. As long as it’s one you have power.
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Old 10-25-2019, 12:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicoPez View Post
Currently have an E-Pro 19FBS with solar fully loaded. Current setup:

--Converter/Charger WF-8735 which allows the AC power to all the appliances (fridge, a/c, microwave, outlets) from shore power of course.
--Just bought GoWISE Power PS1003 Pure SINE Wave Inverter 2000w Cont/4000w Peak to install.

At which point in the wiring can I install the inverter without exploding everything and melting wires etc...?

Also thinking of buying a 30A Contactor 3 Pole so I don't have to keep turning on and off the converter.

Anybody have the wiring diagram or can make one thats legible? And does anyone have pictures or the inner working of the WF-8735 before I break mine apart?
I looked at getting an inverter. I found a transfer switch on Amazon that would turn on the converter/charger when powered from shore/generator.

I decided instead to go with an Inverter/Charger and remove the OEM charger. Keep It Super Simple (clean version)

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Old 10-25-2019, 10:02 AM   #18
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I should go with an inverter/charger but with my little camper it was the only thing i could afford and it was a decent deal. It sucks that it didnt come with the correct gear to dry camp which was very misleading at the dealership with a newbie like me.

Now, Ive been researching for another 2 two years since and I finally want to upgrade. Still cant afford anything crazy hence why I went with a $230 inverter instead of a $2300 inverter/charger even though the latter would of made life much more simpler.

BUUUUUUUUT.... everybody in australia always finds an interesting way to build stuff so I thought "why the hell cant I do it". So here we are and I do it for other DIY'ers who want to try these things themselves. Off to actully do the build today I'll try to take as many photos and such as possible. Talk to y'all soon
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Old 10-25-2019, 12:04 PM   #19
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Here are a few thoughts now that I've seen what I think you want to do.
Looks like you're just wanting to bypass the converter/charger with the switch/relay and let the inverter power everything else when it's on? Is that correct?

Looks like the guy in the youtube video is just using the switch to actuate the relay to disconnect power from the converter when the inverter is on. I can't actually see how the switch is wired, but I suspect that's what he's doing.

FYI, what you show is a 3-pole contactor, but in the picture he's only using the NC aux contacts. Is there another part of the picture we're not seeing?

I also can't see where all the neutral (white) wires are going under the blue tape, but I suspect that they're all just tied together.

In order to do what he did, you need to remove the wires from the converter breaker (#5 in the pic posted) and connect it to the NC side of the relay (contactor). Then connect a wire to the switch from the #5 breaker and out the other side of the switch to the A1 pole of the relay. You can run a neutral from the A2 pole of the relay to the power panel neutral bus.

If what I think you want is correct, I can make a drawing of it for you, if you still have any questions.
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Old 10-25-2019, 04:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by NicoPez View Post
I should go with an inverter/charger but with my little camper it was the only thing i could afford and it was a decent deal. It sucks that it didnt come with the correct gear to dry camp which was very misleading at the dealership with a newbie like me.

Now, Ive been researching for another 2 two years since and I finally want to upgrade. Still cant afford anything crazy hence why I went with a $230 inverter instead of a $2300 inverter/charger even though the latter would of made life much more simpler.

BUUUUUUUUT.... everybody in australia always finds an interesting way to build stuff so I thought "why the hell cant I do it". So here we are and I do it for other DIY'ers who want to try these things themselves. Off to actully do the build today I'll try to take as many photos and such as possible. Talk to y'all soon
This is one of the transfer switches, I mentioned above.
Go Power! TS-30 30 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch

You can see it powers the converter only when on shore power. Nothing fancy but UL approved.
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