Parking It

[boeingav8r]

Hi thank you so much to all of you for your responses. I can’t really pull it closer to the street because there is a sidewalk there and I don’t want to block the sidewalk. And the other thing is the garage and my wife pulling her car out. The way the camper is sitting right now the front of it is slightly over too far making it a little bit of a challenge when she Backs her car out of the garage. It’ll work where it is and I really can’t shove the nose over anymore because then it would be completely on the grass and I don’t want that.
Well I still have a maxed out bubble but it would only take a pinky width to get me only a bit of bubble out. It seems to me if I could lower that tongue all the way to the ground I would be level but I don’t know how to do that with the Jack getting in the way. Should I remove the Jack? I do have a 2 1/2 ton floor jack that I can raise it with.What is level enough. Like I said my wife is worried about the windows draining but these look like the kind of windows that may not be an issue.
As far as putting it on leveling blocks I do have leveling blocks but wouldn’t that then negate the wheel chocks? I would bet if I put one of those leveling blocks under each tire I would be level. My tongue is still probably 6 inches off the ground but the tongue jack is holding it up. It looks to me like there’s three bolts on the top of the tongue through the tongue jack is that all that holds the tongue jack on? I could jack it up releasing the pressure on the tongue jack and then remove it and then I could put the tongue clear down on the ground. But it seems to me that the tongue Jack is possibly providing some resistance to it rolling backwards. Maybe I’m wrong.

[jay2703]

We bought the Fastway One-Step wheel chocks for our trailer. It wedges between the tires and keeps it from moving either directions. Definitely more secure that the yellow chocks.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/onestep-chock

[{Tpc}]

I’m going to reiterate what has already been said...careful when lowering the tongue...the back might come up and clip the eave of the garage. Just go a little at a time..and get those back chocks closer as well.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Do you have a saw that can cut a 4x4? I would craft some type of low platform to go under the tires so that it is level with the tongue lowered. And I would add blocks on the rear of the platforms to prevent it rolling.

[boeingav8r]

LOL that’s funny you’re about the fourth person that told me that. That sounds like a really good idea. Hell I think I’ll build a ramp so that I don’t even need to lower the tongue. ROFL LMAO
I did try leveling it with the stabilizer jacks but I’m thinking that maybe that’s not what stabilizer jacks are for. So I gave up on that idea. I had it raised and the bubble moved a little bit but they were so high I couldn’t leave it. Almost scared the poop out of me.

[{Tpc}]

Stab jacks are never for leveling. It doesn’t matter if they are fully extended though, but I find they are more stable when they aren’t fully extended.

I don’t know if the purpose here is to just park it for a day to load up for a trip, or to leave it there all the time.

If it is to leave it there all the time, I suggest finding a storage yard to store it at. It’s just easier than your setup now and your neighbors will thank you.

Once you have it how you want it, x-chocks between the wheels are a great choice. Of course they need to be removed prior to raising the tongue to get it back on the truck so don’t remove the yellow chocks since it is likely to roll back if you remove and try to place them again before removing the x-chocks.

Another tip is to use the parking brake on the truck after you hook back up while your removing chocks. Trucks like to “move” a little when you shift back into park and that could be too much. This way you can have the parking brake on to keep everything in one spot, remove chocks, foot on brake, shift into drive, remove parking brake. You may even find the need to drag the brake a little when pulling back out just in case it starts to roll back a little.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Those pictures that you posted of the level makes things a whole lot clearer. You're not that far off in leveling. I wouldn't worry about it unless you decide to run the refrigerator.
Actually, having it on a bit of a tilt will mean that water won't pool on top of the rig which is good.
Those stabilizers aren't meant to hold any weight. They 'stabilize' only. We've used bottle jacks under the frame when the levelers weren't sufficient, but again, I think you're ok for level.

You are partially correct about the leveling blocks. We went through a couple of different types til we discovered the Lynx which are sturdier and they stack like legos. Their stop/chock sits on the top and will work to stop the rig. However, I don't think you need that at this point. I would suggest a larger chocks or wood behind the wheels to make certain you don't end up with it in the garage.

As to your windows, I don't think your wife has to worry. You've got the frameless windows. There's no channel for the water to collect in.

[boeingav8r]

Hi. Thank you for all of that. A good thing for me is my truck has what’s called I think it’s called hill start assist. When I take my foot off the break that system automatically holds the truck in place till I can hit the gas. But I assure you I will have my foot on the break and the gas to make sure she doesn’t roll back.
I don’t know if you can zoom in on the attached picture or not but I’ve got the yellow chock behind the front tire and a huge piece of wood behind the back tire and then a red chock holding the piece of wood. But right now the full weight of the trailer is sitting on the yellow chock. Earlier I was tempted to hook the truck up again and make sure it was sitting back on that big chunk of wood. I hope that yellow plastic thing doesn’t give way over time. The plan is to park at there whenever we are not using it. If we are going to go camping I would pull it out into the street the day before make sure it’s level out there and like cool the refrigerator and whatever else would need to be done load it.

[boeingav8r]

So as you guys know my trailer is not level. I plugged in electrical power and I turned on the refrigerator and it works. Does that mean it’s level enough? Or does that mean the refrigerator will work but it’s hurting itself?

Also both of my propane tanks are completely empty. The other day I forgot that and turned the refrigerator on gas. I hear a clicking noise. Like an igniter. And it would click for a while and then stop and then it would click again and stop and then it finally just stopped I hear a clicking noise. Like an igniter. And it would click for a while and then stop and then it would click again and stop and then it finally just you know stopped. I don’t understand why a refrigerator that was going to run on propane would be clicking like that.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by boeingav8r

Or does that mean the refrigerator will work but it’s hurting itself?
I don’t understand why a refrigerator that was going to run on propane would be clicking like that.

It is not good for a refrigerator to operate when it's not level. So basically, it's hurting itself. Your plan to pull it into the street to cool down the refrigerator is a good one.
The refrigerator has an electronic ignition which is what you are hearing when it clicks.

[onetonford]

If it was my driveway and I was parking my unit for storage I would build a ramp to put into place to level the trailer. The ramps would have to be tied together in a H pattern and be able to bolt to the concrete to keep it from sliding. But that is just me.

[rsdata]

Do you have a saw that can cut a 4x4? I would craft some type of low platform to go under the tires so that it is level with the tongue lowered. And I would add blocks on the rear of the platforms to prevent it rolling.

I would buy two 2X8 by 8 foot lumber. Cut them at the 4 1/2 foot mark. Cut a 45 angle on one edge of both lengths. Stack the 3 1/2 footer on top of the 4 1/2 footer and screw them together.

Go to Harbor Freight and buy their expensive (substantial) RUBBER wheel chocks. Securely lag screw with washers the chocks to the end of the bolted "ramps" so the chock will not move. I would also get a pair of the X-Wheel chocks for that extra measure of security. Search on Amazon for them

Place the wood ramps in the driveway and drive onto them. Back to where the trailer's wheels hit the chocks. The wheels weight on the wood and the chocks SECURLY bolted to the wood, the trailer will not roll anywhere. Crude drawing below...

This will allow you to lower the tongue further because the wood will raise the wheels by 3 inches.

My experience has shown that the fridge does not need to be perfectly level to operate OK. There are specs on how out of level they can be and I will attempt to find that for you. You actually want a little rake on the roof to shed rain water and snow.

[ARhappycamper]

Am I missing something here ?
I cannot figure out what the big deal is.
Chock the tires behind the rear tires and in front of the front tires, raise the camper off the truck, move the truck, lower the camper tongue, check the chocks again. That's it !

[moose074]

I agree make sure refrigerator is off, wheels are chocked and relax. I would look thru the forum to see if anybody has had trouble with leaky windows ( thru design vs defective). I sold cars for a short period of time 07-08. I consider myself a smart person ( barely) but keeping up with all the different configurations on all the different models. I am sure the same is true in trl industry. Salesman rely on other salesman than they do actual knowledge.

I have the following chocks not because I didn’t like the little yellow ones. Though our travel friends runs over his yellow one all the time never knows. I bought them because our Great Dane puppy thought the others were toys and would steel them and chew them up. So went with these unfortunately they survived longer than our beloved Hart.

[rsdata]

Am I missing something here ?
I cannot figure out what the big deal is.

If you look at the pics in #14 you will see a very limited length sloped driveway that ends at a garage door with a possible obstruction on the house roof eaves.

I could see that a new owner might be intimidated parking that thing... then questioning the limited ability to level it.

Hopefully he will use some of the suggestions and will get used to this extreme parking situation.

As promised earlier, I did an internet search for level absorption RV fridge and found dozens of references. MOST ALL use the specs of 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. HOWEVER one very recent article explained it this way...

In recent years Dometic has engineered a new type of cooling unit that utilizes an improved siphon pump tube design which drastically reduces the possibility of permanent damage to the coils if operated in an out-of-level condition, or too much heat is generated at the boiler section. The siphon pump tube is enclosed in the design and is surrounded by a weak ammonia solution, which will protect the pump tube from abnormally over-heating. This type of unit; however, does not eliminate the need for proper leveling. The unit still requires gravitational flow to provide the proper cooling process, and if leveling is outside the necessary limits, cooling will dramatically slow down or stop completely.

So I hope this helps the OP

[boeingav8r]

So, this leveling ramp. I am picturing using 2x8x14. I am seeing three levels. Single board 14' long, then another length of 10' on top of it and then a third length of 6' on top of that with a nice sturdy chock built in at the end.
My question is this: In order to build it, do I create the "lengths" of board based on the tire contact area (48") or the entire length of tires (61")??. In my little brain I can go just by the tire contact area. Single board length 14'. Second board length 10' leaving 4' for the "first tier". Third board length 6' leaving 4' of 2nd tier exposed, having 4' for the tires and having 2' for chock. If chock is 8" at the base then I'd have like 16" to attach a "stop" for the chock. I would think a piece of 2x8 would be enough of a "stop".
Backing onto it I see the rear tire butting up against the second tier and then butting up against the third tier and then both tires would go onto the third tier. Does this make sense??? I will attach a picture of what I'm thinking. I'm an aircraft mechanic not a carpenter but this is what I would envision. Any other helpful ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[rsdata]

I am seeing three levels. Single board, then another length on top and then a third length

NO...

I used this to describe my design...

I would buy two 2X8 by 8 foot lumber. Cut them at the 4 1/2 foot mark. Cut a 45 angle on one edge of both lengths. Stack the 3 1/2 footer on top of the 4 1/2 footer and screw them together.

Cutting each board at the 4 1/2 foot mark AT a 45 degree angle gives you only TWO cuts to make, one in each board and two pieces with an angle... 1 at 4 1/2 feet the other at 3 1/2 feet.

My tandem axle unit only needs 3 1/2 feet to get both tires off the ground... yours might be the same size. If you want you could use 10 foot boards cut at 5 1/2 feet and 2 x 10 inch. You only need to get the tires up on the ramp.

This gives 2 boards tall, about 3 inches high, using 2 x 8 x 8 feet or 2 x 10. I would not use 2 x 6. Two inch thick lumber is nominally 1 1/2 inch thick. I would also NOT do three tiers high... might get unstable.

I hope this explains the way I would do it more clearly for you.

[boeingav8r]

Hi. My tires' contact area is 44". If I add 4" for a little extra, I need 48" or 4' for each length. ....3.5' is only 42". Not long enough.
But I guess if I went with a 5.5' bottom board and a 4.5' top board that would work, leaving a foot on the top board for a chock. although I'd want to add another chock in between the tires or an X-Chock like you mentioned. That would be best.
Looking at pic #14, do you think 3" would be enough to raise it to level along with dropping the tongue?? I raised it yesterday using the stab jacks and although I didn't measure how much I raised it (stupid in hindsight. would be nice to know) it didn't move the bubble but a little bit. but 3" might do it.
I really like this idea. I'd only need two 2x10x10 boards to make it. And chocks of course. I could make this today, pull the trailer forward, put them under it and be good to go. If I had the tools, I could "notch" the top board like 1/4" or so for the chock to sit in as well as have lag bolts behind it to hold it in place. Hmmmmm. This could be done.

[rsdata]

I raised it yesterday using the stab jacks

I only use the stab jacks to tweak the trailer to level... NEVER use them to raise the entire trailer they are prone to failure and not make to raise the entire trailer weight. Besides... these ultra light trailers frames flex to some extent... you do not want to raise the entire rear end using just end mounted stab jacks.

If 2 levels at 3 inches do not raise it close to level, you can always add a third board underneath... although if going three high I might make that bottom board a 2 x 12 piece just for added strength and stability. LUMBER is awful expensive these days...

NOTE.... you can be 1/2 a bubble off on front to back and still the fridge should work.

Look for these on amazon... great for adjusting level when camping.

[boeingav8r]

Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. So my fridge will work right now. But just because it works doesn't mean anything, right??? If I turn it on, the fault light goes out right away. And it cools. But how do I know if I'm hurting it or not??