Put vent in living area?

[HeyJude]

Is this difficult? We need a power fan in the living area, we have the vent without the fan, is it hard to run the wires to it?

[Wiscampsin]

Have you taken the vent shroud off to see if there are wires already up there?

[HeyJude]

Originally Posted by Wiscampsin

Have you taken the vent shroud off to see if there are wires already up there?

No, didn't think of that. I will as soon as we can open up the slides when the ice and snow are gone.

[kenandterry]

Yup....
Sometimes people, including ourselves, have found existing wiring passing by very closely to exhaust vents in the space between the ceiling and roof.

Then, if you don’t want to disturb the vent lid on the roof and how it seals to the roof, you can look at Heng’s Vortex brand fans for your fan unit. They connect and install from the inside and you don’t need to go on the roof at all.

Good luck.

[kenandterry]

See attached.....

[jeff64]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Yup....
Sometimes people, including ourselves, have found existing wiring passing by very closely to exhaust vents in the space between the ceiling and roof.

Then, if you don’t want to disturb the vent lid on the roof and how it seals to the roof, you can look at Heng’s Vortex brand fans for your fan unit. They connect and install from the inside and you don’t need to go on the roof at all.

Good luck.

Did that on my previous Jayco TT. Pulled the 12v from a ceiling light and installed the Heng's fan. It flat out moved air, albeit a little on the noisy side.

[cavie]

If you need to run wires you can use surface Mount plastic wire mold to a cabinet then down thru the floor and then to your power supply.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Wiscampsin

Have you taken the vent shroud off to see if there are wires already up there?

If you find 12V wires but can't tell how they are fused, be sure to use an line fuse. If the fan you get doesn't already have a fuse, stuff a 5amp inline fuse into the ceiling when you wire the fan.

If there's little room to work in the ceiling and little slack in the wires you wish to tap, use these connectors.

Larry

[Photo Lab]

Chances are very good that there is a wire run be the factory, presently in the existing hole. It will probably have the end simply insulated and stored. It may or may not be hot. If not, look for it in the DC fuse side of your power center. Mine is yellow, but that may not always apply.

I installed a FanTastic vent in our Sunseeker, and the only problems were getting the Dicor loose on the roof to allow the old vent to be removed. Careful application with a box cutter type knife and a putty knife finally prevailed. In sealing the new fan down, I like to use a bead of "Goop" sealer under the flange, then again on top to seal to the remaining Dicor, and around the screws. Finally, a layer of Eternabond tape.

The other problem was connecting to the remote control thermostat, which I mounted on the wall near the FR control panel. Since this is merely a length of telephone cord, and the run is only about 3 feet, I was able to fish it across the ceiling, using a fiberglass wire fishing rod, then pulling it back with a string. Taking the FR panel out and letting it rest, the fairly generous wall cavity made it a pretty good DIY project. The fan moves a LOT of air, in or out, and has a motorized cover function.

[CGK]

We replaced the original bathroom fan in our old TT with a (Heng's) Vortex. That was easy, since the wiring was already in place. We chose the base replacement model because we didn't anticipate needing a fan that would reverse and send air into the bathroom. In the living area, we installed the Vortex II, since that had 3 forward speeds and 2 reverse speeds. As kenandterry mentioned, these install from the inside, so you can keep your current vents and they will work with regular MaxxAirs (or Camco, or whatever you're using now). There was a light fixture right next to our fan housing, so I was hopeful it would be a simple installation; but the light (and 3 others in that room) was/were controlled by a single switch. I ended up removing the existing housing and used a snake to run a set of wires into the kitchen to hookup with a 12 volt wire behind the microwave (which I removed to access the wires). Is it any surprise it didn't turn out to be as easy as it might have been? Murphy!!! Once I figured out what I had to do, it wasn't too difficult to actually finish the job. Oh, and everything worked fine, but those fans are on the loud side. Good luck!

[KDHfan]

We replaced the cheap fan that came with our camper with the Heng’s Vortex II. Fairly easy install (a little difficult for one person). Overall, it has served us well, but like others have said, it’s rather noise. Low isn’t bad, medium is bearable, high is almost impossible.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by KDHfan

We replaced the cheap fan that came with our camper with the Heng’s Vortex II. Fairly easy install (a little difficult for one person). Overall, it has served us well, but like others have said, it’s rather noise. Low isn’t bad, medium is bearable, high is almost impossible.

You would use High for just a few minutes when you return to a hot trailer on a cooler evening. Even better if you have two such fans. Put one on intake and one on exhaust and flush the entire trailer in a few minutes.

Larry

[pilotpip]

I had a second maxx fan added to my 2509S in the vent over the murphy bed. The dealer grabbed power from the closest ceiling light. To run the fan I have to have the light switch on the main panel on. Works great.