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Old 01-16-2021, 08:15 PM   #1
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solar on flagstaff classic

anyone install solar on thier flagstaff classic. there is a battery cable by the batteries listed as solar. does that hook up to positive side or negative side. i don't have a picture as my trailer is in storage.
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Old 01-17-2021, 09:37 AM   #2
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For solar to work it needs to be connected to both positive and negative sides of the system
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Old 01-19-2021, 08:44 AM   #3
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My Flagstaff (listed as solar ready) has a small two pin plug with light gauge wiring that goes to the positive and negative side of the battery.

There is no controller and the plug and wiring would not support much in the way of panels. It was designed for a Zamp suitcase style, solar trickle charger.

On many units, "solar ready" is nothing more than marketing hype.
You 'may' have something more substantial. You'll need to check yours.
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Old 01-20-2021, 10:22 AM   #4
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WE bought our trailer new about 4 months ago. have only camped about 3 times so far. planning on more and further trips. since today is a trashy day due to inauguration. i will go to storage to look at the connections on the trailer to see how to set it up. may look at Harbor freight for some solar panels.
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Old 01-20-2021, 02:26 PM   #5
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Solar

What trailer are you traveling in. It makes a difference on how you approach a solar install. We have a FR Flagstaff T12DDST and our approach would certainly be different from a 5th Wheel install. We also live in South Texas where sun is readily available as opposed to northern parts of the US and Canada. I say this as we want our rigs in the shade as opposed to sunlight exposure due to 105 degree days in the summer. We chose to install directly to the batteries as then I would have the shortest run to the batteries. The voltage drop is an issue with a solar install. We have a short run of 6 gauge from the battery terminals (two group 27 deep cycle batteries) to an outside access box (i.e. https://www.lowes.com/pd/TayMac-1-Ga...Cover/50372928 ). We have the cables from the batteries terminated to an Anderson 50 amp (i.e. Anderson SB50 Connector 50 Amps Orange Housing, 6, 8, or 10/12 AWG Contacts) This connection point allows for direct panel/controller hookup to the batteries. We have two 100 watt panels joined by piano hinge and they must be first connected to the batteries as recommended by Renogy so the battery type can be recognised by the solar controller, in our case a MPPT solar controller. The solar controller should also located as close to the batteries as possible. We have the solar controller located in our storage box on the front of our camper. After this short run we can either plug in the panels or by way of the Anderson connectors use a 10 THHN extension cable 25 feet long and then plug in the panels. This allows us to have the panels up to 40 feet away from the camper or 10 feet away. We do get a tiny voltage drop but still more than needed reaches the solar controller. With our electrical usage we, in the summer, have to recharge our batteries about ever other day allowing for a drop to 12.2 volts dc from 12.8 vdc. Since we are over 70 we plan one activity day and the next a maintenance day (i.e. laundry, battery charging, water run, solid waste run and other stuff runs) It takes less than 2 hours to get our batteries topped off so that's our coffee/breakfast time, as well as check out our physical review. I hope this helps. At least it's food for thought. Many have more complex setups and we might also some day but for now we are very content with our solar setup. After having the panel out of the truck bed and easily accessible it takes less than 4 minutes to have it up, running and recharging our batteries with a minimum of hassle and when leaving for a hike we just just slip it in the door of the camper and we are gone.
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Old 01-20-2021, 02:45 PM   #6
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i have a 2021 flagstaff classic model 832flsb. will have to wait to get slide out in living room to access the area where the invertor is. it is in the front right side of trailer.
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Old 01-20-2021, 05:11 PM   #7
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Solar

You do not say how many watts of solar you are considering. It makes a difference for planning. I use a Energy suitcase w/ 100 watts , come w/ a 20 amp controller. They are good quality panels. We have added an additional 100 watt panel on DYI PVC stand. I can set them out 30' w/ 10 gauge extension cables and get sun. We set it facing the east in morning and west in evening and can camp under shady. I have a pig tail over my batteries to plug directly into, better than small wires on Zoar. I can also take it w/ me to next camper. We just store in on the bed while traveling.
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Old 01-20-2021, 06:19 PM   #8
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Such a simple question requiring very complex answers.

Others have asked you to fill in the blanks.

Things we need to know:
~ What does solar mean to you? Trickle charge, boondocking without shore power, keep the rig's batteries topped off while stored?
~ Is your rig "solar ready"...not the same as the Zamp or Solar on the Side stuff meant to use suitcase portable panels. Solar ready usually means that you have built in connectors on the roof feeding #10 AWG wire routed to a marked location where you can install a solar charge controller, and a second set of #10 AWG wires leads to a connection to the battery bank. Both work, but each requires a VERY different answer. BTW, solar ready is worthless if you're going to do some mondo solar. Those #10 awg wires from the roof will be useless if you're feeding 800 watts of solar down the line.
~ What's your budget for solar and a good battery bank. Start at $1000 and go up for anything like worthwhile solar on a big, cushy trailer/fiver like yours.

So, as others have said, fess up. What do you REALLY want to know?

FYI, I have 400 watts of solar on the roof and 2 x 6 volt GC2 golf cart batteries on the tongue. We boondock exclusively. We are low-grade totally independent. With careful power use, we can boondock essentially indefinitely without shore power or relying on the generator for charging. We do use the generator for about 30 minutes total per day to run a microwave and espresso machine. We're not animals, after all!! That's it unless it's cloudy/rainy weather that traps us inside. Then we run the genny because their ain't no sun.

Our system is minimal, and it lives in sunny Colorado at 8300 feet or higher. The sun is intense, and it's not filtered nearly as much as it is at sea level. I have the skin cancers to prove it. Anyway, at sea level and in rainier climates, you'll need more of everything, including money, if you want to boondock.

If you're going to be a park queen...mostly using hookups...(not that there's anything wrong with that) your needs will be very different than if you intend to go off the beaten path and spend a week in the national forest with NO hookups.

Like I said, spill the beans. We can't help without that all-important info.

P.S. Dress up your signature and your profile info with all the pertinent info others need to know about you, your camping habits, your rig, your tow vehicle, and anything else that would help others answer your questions. Include models and years on both the RV and the TV. The "Classic" line covers a LOT of territory.
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