Winterising a Micro Light 25FKS

[MaddBrit]

Looking for advice on winterising our new 25FKS travel trailer, and having trouble locating the valves. The user guide that was supplied just explains the steps to be taken, not where the valves are located and how to bypass the water heater.

Any help and advice appreciated.

[Cabinfever97]

The HW bypass will be at the HW tank. Usually there is a access panel on the inside with 2-4 small screws to access the HW tank. That access will be opposite where you access the HW tank outside. The low point drains can sometimes be difficult to find as well. Easiest way is just scoot around under the camper to find them. They may be very close to the outside wall and then even more difficult to find. As for winterizing there are many post on that you can find by using the search. The way I do it; I use air to first blow out the lines. I connect air hose with a fitting you can get at local RV dealer. I use 60PSI. I take the drain valve/anode rod out of HW tank and drain. After it is drained I turn the air on. Allow it to push a little more water from HW tank then I close my bypass valves. Then I open all faucets and work the toilet valve to push as much water from the system as possible. I then use a 5 gallon bucket to remove anything in black and grey tanks. Should not be much if you drained properly your last trip. Being the last trip of the year dont put any extra in tank like if you were going to camp again. I then remove the intake side of 12V water pump. Your local RV place will also have a fitting that will go on the intake. Attach a couple feet of hose to that fitting. Any hose will do, I bought some light hose at HD. Get a few gallons of RV antifreeze. Put hose in jug. I start at the furthest faucet from the pump and run until it is pink antifreeze. Work your way forward until you run every faucet, toilet, and outside shower. I use more antifreeze than I need. I like to be sure the P traps are well protected and like the extra in the tanks going toward the dump valves for a little protection. Then I bleed the low point drains to be sure no untreated antifreeze water is sitting at the caps. Takes me about a hour to do my TT. One more thing if you do move your TT after winterizing. Open the dump valves after you repark. There may be enough water laying in the bottom of the tank to dilute antifreeze. That water will do nothing in winter if freezes while laying in the middle of the tank or a corner of the tank. However if it sloshes to the valves and dillutes the antifreeze you could freeze in the dump valve area that can break something.

[MaddBrit]

^ thank you, Sir.

Still cannot locate the valve (you would think they would have that info in the manual), so going to pay an RV tech to do the winterization, then d it myself after watching them.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by MaddBrit

^ thank you, Sir.

Still cannot locate the valve (you would think they would have that info in the manual), so going to pay an RV tech to do the winterization, then d it myself after watching them.

Have you looked for a small cupboard/cabinet door that has 3 hinges on it but no latch? Again, it should be inside and in the same area as the outside access door for the water heater. In my Microlite it's at the bottom of my pantry.

You access it by removing the two screws in the hinge that's all by itself.

[MaddBrit]

Thanks guys, and good news is I found it!

At the rear of the trailer on the RHS there is a hatch which opens to a long sliding tray that pulls out and houses the sewer connection pipe and other outside stuff. The valves are hidden behind a panel on the right and also the water filter. Its inside where the water heater is.

I am going to write to the manufacturer and suggest they put a single sheet in the manual explaining where they are and also the low points on the outside.

As an aside, we are very happy with the construction and overall fit and finish of the RV, and haven't had a single issue in the six trips we have taken it on so far.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by MaddBrit

I am going to write to the manufacturer and suggest they put a single sheet in the manual explaining where they are and also the low points on the outside.

Good Luck with that![emoji850]

[5picker]

Originally Posted by MaddBrit

Thanks guys, and good news is I found it!

At the rear of the trailer on the RHS there is a hatch which opens to a long sliding tray that pulls out and houses the sewer connection pipe and other outside stuff. The valves are hidden behind a panel on the right and also the water filter. Its inside where the water heater is.

I am going to write to the manufacturer and suggest they put a single sheet in the manual explaining where they are and also the low points on the outside.

As an aside, we are very happy with the construction and overall fit and finish of the RV, and haven't had a single issue in the six trips we have taken it on so far.

That is the job of the dealer.
They should have went over all the R/V 101 stuff with you when you purchased the unit. Your beef should be with them if they didn't show you some of the most important aspects of your R/V. Shame on them!

[Bill H.]

Hi maddbrit, Where were the low point water drains located on the 25FKS?

[old442]

Originally Posted by Bill H.

Hi maddbrit, Where were the low point water drains located on the 25FKS?

Door side, either above or just behind the wheels.

[bookooc]

Thanks for this. I have the same trailer, just bought it used. The lack of documentation is amazing. Thank goodness for this forum!

[ewhite2316]

I used this video to help me winterize my 25RKS microlite (

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKVPrqEaJBE

). Question is my water pump bowl is full of antifreeze. Do I leave the bowl full of antifreeze? The antifreeze was added through the port on the outside of the trailer to run through the faucets.

[bookooc]

Another question on this topic.
I see videos of people using air compressor method or the anitfreeze method, or a combination of both.
I live in north GA, we get very few sub 20F nights.
Opinions on which method would be best?
What are you doing?

[PodGeek]

Originally Posted by bookooc

Another question on this topic.
I see videos of people using air compressor method or the antifreeze method, or a combination of both.
I live in north GA, we get very few sub 20F nights.
Opinions on which method would be best?
What are you doing?

I use compressed air, and I'm in Colorado where we get temps in the -15F range on occasion. As long as you're careful to make sure that all the water has been blown out of all the the lines (which can take a bit of patience) you should be fine. Used that method the last two winters, and no problems so far. Many folks say they've been using that method for many years. Sure beats having to crawl around to get at the water-heater bypass lines IMHO.

There will be some people who think it's riskier than using antifreeze, possibly due to reports from people who don't blow their lines out completely.

[5picker]

Using only compressed air doesn't address any water in the pump or the pumps suction/strainer.

I've seen several busted from freezing.

[creedster]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Using only compressed air doesn't address any water in the pump or the pumps suction/strainer.

I've seen several busted from freezing.

X2

[PodGeek]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Using only compressed air doesn't address any water in the pump or the pumps suction/strainer.

I've seen several busted from freezing.

Interesting. There are plenty of folks who have stated that they have been using the compressed air method for many years with no issues. I wonder what specifically might cause some people to end up with "busted" water pumps when using that method.

[bookooc]

Originally Posted by ewhite2316

I used this video to help me winterize my 25RKS microlite (

). Question is my water pump bowl is full of antifreeze. Do I leave the bowl full of antifreeze? The antifreeze was added through the port on the outside of the trailer to run through the faucets.

Are you talking about the small bowl at the bottom, looks like it might have a small filter in it? I would leave it there, for sure. It will get flushed out when you un-winterize it.

I didn't even realize the 25fks had that winterizing port. I was going to install a kit on the water lines. I watched this video too, but I don't see the white button he says to press on the city line inlet at the end of the video. Do you have that?

[csc]

Hi dee ho. We just bought a new Flagstaff Micro Lite couples coach. My valves for the water heater were up front in our kitchen area on the right. Our water pump was on the back side under our bedroom area. I thought I had to buy a special filter wrench, nope wife found it in fridge. HOWEVER, the filter housing was a pain to remove, but I put one hand securely on the bottom of filter and placed filter wrench at top AND....off she came. Emptied it. Put it back on and started the intake of rv antifreeze. I emptied the filter bottle to make sure there's no water. Then I started winterizing the whole trailer. If you have an outside shower, make sure the pink flows from it. The little white Release valve is located on one of the water connections on the outside of your trailer . Just Pop off the little filter inside and you'll see the WHITE BUTTON. PUSH it to allow the release of pink. Then you're done. Get a cold one.

[ewhite2316]

I do have the white button shown in the video.

[bookooc]

Originally Posted by ewhite2316

I do have the white button shown in the video.

I probably do too, I missed the part where he said to pull of the inlet screen. Haven't had a chance to do it yet.