12volt fridge disconnect

[Ravensview]

Hello,
My wife and I are getting close to pulling the trigger on an epro 20fbs (2024), after looking at a lot of trailers they seem to be in a sweet spot for what our needs are, most of our camping is in state and national forest campsites or dispersed type camping, I still have concerns on the 12 volt fridge and its power consumption, so have the thought of using our coolers with ice to get a weeks worth of off grid camping in at a time, my question is this, is there an easy way to disconnect the fridge when you do not want to run it?

On a side note I was seriously looking at the 15 model, the 19fd and the 19fds but believe that with my two golden retrievers that they would be too tight space wise, we are moving up from a chalet A-frame camper and it worked out okay, but we are not getting any younger and the contortions to move around the pups are getting tougher to do.

[jlankford]

You can pull the blade fuse in the power distribution panel to disconnect it. Or simply turn it off. The measured parasitic current when it's off is negligible.

Read this thread to learn a bit more. You can boondock with the 12V fridge just fine if you make some upgrades to your new RV (larger battery capacity & solar).
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ta-276067.html

The summary of the thread is that we can boondock for a week or more, indefinitely really, with the battery & solar that we have. When we have no sun we can still boondock for 4 days without any battery recharge. Average consumption of the fridge is about 55Ah per day.

[Ravensview]

Thank you for the information, still trying to wrap my head around these 12 volt fridges as well as general power consumption, I need to be able to run a cpap at night as well so that adds another dimension for us now.

[Ravensview]

By the way love your quote in your tag line!

[Reverse_snowbird]

That looks like the right trailer for your needs. We had a similar layout without two dogs. With the other units, climbing over my mate to get out of bed didn't appeal (been there, done that) and the convertible bed wouldn't work for us if one of us needed a nap. We had a curtain that closed off the bed from the rest of the rig for privacy and you could probably rig one up fairly easily.

Looking at the website, that rig comes with an optional 'power package' that gives you
460AH SINGLE MASTERVOLT MLI LITHIUM-ION BATTERY W/ SAFETY DISCONNECT
3KW (3000 WATTS)/160A INVERTER/CHARGER MASTERVOLT COMBIMASTER
3 -200W SOLAR PANELS (600 WATTS) TO MAINTAIN/CHARGE BATTERY BANK
11,000BTU COLEMAN MACH SOFT START A/C
2 SMART REMOTES - OFFERING MONITORING AND CONTROL FOR THE SYSTEM
SIDE SOLAR PLUG IN STANDARD FOR PORTABLE SOLAR OPTION

Now the solar might be a challenge in National Forests, but usually there is enough sun near the road in front of campsites to use portable solar panels.

[jlankford]

That power package seems perfect for what you need. And much less hassle than building out an upgraded system yourself like many of us have done. The option might cost more than what you could build it for yourself, but the time and research invested in DIY will probably make the price worth it.

FWIW, when we are camping in shade our 600W of solar will still generate at least 45 Ah of power per day. So it almost covers the demand of the 12V fridge. If we're conservative with our power usage we can still boondock almost a week when camping in shade. The battery and solar capacities of that power package should be enough to not need any more upgrades.

[Aussieguy]

since adding panels I have NOT needed to use 120v to charge up my batteries

That power option.... probably will cost a fortune
and it won't power the a/c for too long.

I would pass on it and find someone to help you build a less expensive system
I got 2 x 100ah batteries and 2 x 370w panels (740w of residential solar panels)
plus a 50 amp solar controller ...
did it on the cheap batteries 400.00 solar cables connectors and brackets for about 500.00

so for a $1000 it works great and can stay out indefinitely running 12v fridge and even the furnace

shade and rain may cause problems if you got a small 1000w generator it will charge batteries.
Camped in a shady tree filled campground was able to get enough solar each day


If you want run the a/c ... OR use a inverter a lot get a bigger generator
or pay for powered sites.
Summer I pay for sites... all other times can go without a/c

[Ravensview]

Aussieguy,
Ye, I don’t think I can justify what they want for a power package, I have no issues putting my own system together, I do have a Honda 1000 generator that I used with my previous camper, the A.C. Would probably be never used, not much of a t.v. Watcher while camping, I am looking into stand alone power source for cpap, my biggest concerns are that dang 12 volt fridge, appreciate the reply

[kipkohl]

On my ‘23 GeoPro BHS there is a rocker switch to cut power to the fridge; Your FBS might have the same.

[Albertaslim]

All 12 volt fridges have an on/off switch. Why not just shut it off?

[Ravensview]

Originally Posted by Albertaslim

All 12 volt fridges have an on/off switch. Why not just shut it off?

I have never had a 12 volt only fridge, hence the question, my other fridges have been 3 way fridges

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by Albertaslim

All 12 volt fridges have an on/off switch. Why not just shut it off?

Never say Always or Never is my motto. I guess All would fit in also.

A recent poster just mentioned his 12V fridge does not have the On/Off ability with his control. Notice the difference with the On/Off Switch Labels.
He even tried it using different time amounts holding down the On/Off switch.

[Aussieguy]

fridge is not hard to keep powered


I got the cheapest 100ah Lithium's and they can power the fridge for 60 hours with no charging source

The dealer supplied lead acid was a joke for powering the fridge ... we only could scoot between powered sites

now I can confidently camp with 3 adults using fridge and furnace.
It's become a non event ..

I even store the trailer with the fridge running

I prescribe to the use it or lose it theory...
as so many people complain things don't work proper after being stored.
My fridge has been constantly running for 2 years

I even use the air conditioner at home storage set at 85 ... for HOT humid summers (connected to 120v)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

but your cpap will use more power than the fridge because it is constantly running.. fridge will run about 50% of the time (or less) at night!

I never tested my Apap on the battery (have stopped using it)
But if you do use it regularly look at 300ah of battery capacity

I believe the the adapter for my Apap is rated at 90w max
if you sleep 8 hours, that would calculate at draining MAX 60 amps from a 100ah battery

But in reality ....... it would be less as they should not draw the MAX from the power source.


How to determine power usage
if you know the wattage of an appliance.... lets say 90w for a cpap
divide by volts (12) then multiply by the number of hours

90 / 12 x 8 = 60ah is drained from battery bank

If you only know the amps
7.5 amps x 8 hours = 60ah drained from battery

so fridge and other 12v stuff can drain about 40 and cpap another 60 = 100 (one battery) if you get 3 batteries you got enough reserve for rainy weather

SOLAR panels calculation
to replace 100 ah with solar you only got on average 5 hours of good charging time
100 / 5 = 20amps per hour you need to produce
20a x 12v = 240w needed every hour

Because panels are laid flat add more ..
Minimum of 4 x 200w panels would cover you (more would be nicer)
800w solar will require a 60amp MPPT (or 2 x 30amp)

your roof laypout should handle 4 - 6 200w panels
or look at larger sized panels like I got 370w each
Found mine on Facebook ..... NEW panels 9 bus bars @ $150.00 each (no shipping)
Rest of my supplies controller, brackets, wire etc.... from Amazon

[Albertaslim]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

Never say Always or Never is my motto. I guess All would fit in also.

A recent poster just mentioned his 12V fridge does not have the On/Off ability with his control. Notice the difference with the On/Off Switch Labels.
He even tried it using different time amounts holding down the On/Off switch.

Attachment 301519


Attachment 301518

The second control still has an on/off switch even though it isn’t labeled as such. Pressing the set button for approximately 15 seconds will turn off the fridge. The single blue indicator light will be replaced by 2 blue lights in the3/4 position. The interior light remains on when the door is open and presumably off when closed.

[jlankford]

Originally Posted by Albertaslim

The second control still has an on/off switch even though it isn’t labeled as such. Pressing the set button for approximately 15 seconds will turn off the fridge. The single blue indicator light will be replaced by 2 blue lights in the3/4 position. The interior light remains on when the door is open and presumably off when closed.

You might want to share that information in this thread:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ge-227036.html

[Ravensview]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

fridge is not hard to keep powered


I got the cheapest 100ah Lithium's and they can power the fridge for 60 hours with no charging source

The dealer supplied lead acid was a joke for powering the fridge ... we only could scoot between powered sites

now I can confidently camp with 3 adults using fridge and furnace.
It's become a non event ..

I even store the trailer with the fridge running

I prescribe to the use it or lose it theory...
as so many people complain things don't work proper after being stored.
My fridge has been constantly running for 2 years

I even use the air conditioner at home storage set at 85 ... for HOT humid summers (connected to 120v)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

but your cpap will use more power than the fridge because it is constantly running.. fridge will run about 50% of the time (or less) at night!

I never tested my Apap on the battery (have stopped using it)
But if you do use it regularly look at 300ah of battery capacity

I believe the the adapter for my Apap is rated at 90w max
if you sleep 8 hours, that would calculate at draining MAX 60 amps from a 100ah battery

But in reality ....... it would be less as they should not draw the MAX from the power source.


How to determine power usage
if you know the wattage of an appliance.... lets say 90w for a cpap
divide by volts (12) then multiply by the number of hours

90 / 12 x 8 = 60ah is drained from battery bank

If you only know the amps
7.5 amps x 8 hours = 60ah drained from battery

so fridge and other 12v stuff can drain about 40 and cpap another 60 = 100 (one battery) if you get 3 batteries you got enough reserve for rainy weather

SOLAR panels calculation
to replace 100 ah with solar you only got on average 5 hours of good charging time
100 / 5 = 20amps per hour you need to produce
20a x 12v = 240w needed every hour

Because panels are laid flat add more ..
Minimum of 4 x 200w panels would cover you (more would be nicer)
800w solar will require a 60amp MPPT (or 2 x 30amp)

your roof laypout should handle 4 - 6 200w panels
or look at larger sized panels like I got 370w each
Found mine on Facebook ..... NEW panels 9 bus bars @ $150.00 each (no shipping)
Rest of my supplies controller, brackets, wire etc.... from Amazon

That is some really good information to hear, thank you

[RFSims]

The problem with turning off the fridge with the on/off switch is, if there is a power interruption the fridge will turn itself back on. Not a problem when camping but not so good storing. I pull the blade fuse.

[kipkohl]

On the OP’s trailer there should be (I’m assuming all current GeoPros are the same) a rocker switch on the wall by the fridge that completely cuts incoming power to the refrigerator.

[CraigJohn]

Originally Posted by Ravensview

I have never had a 12 volt only fridge, hence the question, my other fridges have been 3 way fridges

Instead of upgrading your power package, you could upgrade to a fridge that runs on 110 and propane. That’s what we did and haven’t looked back!

[palomini-er]

I would strongly suggest you buy a quality used unit with a 2 or 3 way fridge. You will regret that 12 volter in the long run. I would even suggest a 2018 to 2022 Jayco product, if I dare say.