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Old 07-26-2021, 10:05 PM   #1
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2021 G16BH Water Leak & Water Pump Issue

Did some searching and didn't find a similar situation.

Noticed a small leak on the inside of where the city water connector clamp is back in May. I only used the city water connection the first day I got it to test but haven't used since and didn't think much of it since it wasn't consistent.

This weekend I noticed drops outside from the driver side at the rear corner. Put a bucket underneath and it may have measured in ounces the whole time but didn't have time to inspect except it may be coming from the area where the water connections are. Opened the water heater door and external hose door and both areas were dry.

Also noticed the water pump started having issues late at night where the bathroom sink was sputtering. The toilet is flushing but don't see it filling as much as it used to. Did some dishes earlier in the afternoon with no issues using cold and hot water. Wife took a bath and complained about pressure but I was doing dishes at the time so figured that was "normal." There's usually a certain sound the pump makes when you turn it on then it's pretty much silent until it starts the sucking water cycle. That sound isn't heard and now sounds like something is constantly running. Typically turn the water pump off trying to conserve power and turn it on before needing to use it.

Had 1/3 tank left at end of trip but dumped on the way out and completely refilled it. Haven't had a chance to look at it and guess the pump issue can't be resolved until I find and stop the leak(s). I'll turn on the pump and check for the constant "humming" sound and each of water points for pressure before cracking panels open to look for leaking water.

I'm no plumber and would appreciate any input on troubleshooting points.


Thanks
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Old 07-26-2021, 10:21 PM   #2
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Please take a look at this video, and let us know if you are experiencing the same issues. Apparently, they installed pex fittings into the rubber hoses at the factory. This video isn't mine, jus something I came across while researching the G16BH.

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Old 07-26-2021, 11:10 PM   #3
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Please take a look at this video, and let us know if you are experiencing the same issues. Apparently, they installed pex fittings into the rubber hoses at the factory. This video isn't mine, jus something I came across while researching the G16BH.

Thanks Ryan, now I remember what I have to look forward to when I look at the rear. I saw this video a few months ago and guess now it may be relevant.

Hope I have time to go to storage early this week but supposed to be in the 90s and not looking forward to crawling on the floor inside the camper looking behind panels.

I'll also check the wheel wells while there.
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Old 07-27-2021, 10:46 PM   #4
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Removed panels and looked everywhere there was water access and no leaks before starting my troubleshooting. Turned on the water heater before I did this that way I could test as well but left the water pump off.

Turned on the water pump and it was constantly humming. Looked again and still no leaks. Started turning on different faucets and plenty of air in the lines for both cold/hot. Eventually got flow going and then went to check and had the one city water leak I saw when I first got it but no others. While testing the kitchen hot water faucet, I started hearing bubbling sounds which came from the water heater and something I never heard before. Turned off the water pump and checked around again with no further leaks.

Turned on the water pump again and checked the kitchen and bubbling sound eventually stopped as did the water pump when I turned the water off. Thought it burned up and went to check. It was warm but didn't think it was toast. Turned it on again an no more humming. How? Why?

Decided to work the leak. Checked to see if the fitting was hand tight and it was so decided to loosen it and water started coming out of that area and had to twist it back on but wasn't cooperating. Eventually got it to stop after trying to get the hose moved over but that made the leak worse. I eventually moved it to where it was about the same flow.

Unfortunately I was running out of time since storage was going to close in 15 minutes. Checked my vehicle for gum but was out...was going to try a MacGyver on the leak. Left some rags around area and a cup with rag in it until tomorrow.

It appears that if I keep the pump off, the leak eventually stops but not sure how much is leaked until it stops. Attached is a picture and guessing whatever is left in that hose is what is leaked out. Is this correct?

Here's a link to a short video with the humming and bubbling sounds I captured. Any ideas?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnA3zzaIB37jgewW...__VvA?e=JcU76o
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Old 07-28-2021, 12:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoverComeOver View Post
Removed panels and looked everywhere there was water access and no leaks before starting my troubleshooting. Turned on the water heater before I did this that way I could test as well but left the water pump off.

Turned on the water pump and it was constantly humming. Looked again and still no leaks. Started turning on different faucets and plenty of air in the lines for both cold/hot. Eventually got flow going and then went to check and had the one city water leak I saw when I first got it but no others. While testing the kitchen hot water faucet, I started hearing bubbling sounds which came from the water heater and something I never heard before. Turned off the water pump and checked around again with no further leaks.

Turned on the water pump again and checked the kitchen and bubbling sound eventually stopped as did the water pump when I turned the water off. Thought it burned up and went to check. It was warm but didn't think it was toast. Turned it on again an no more humming. How? Why?

Decided to work the leak. Checked to see if the fitting was hand tight and it was so decided to loosen it and water started coming out of that area and had to twist it back on but wasn't cooperating. Eventually got it to stop after trying to get the hose moved over but that made the leak worse. I eventually moved it to where it was about the same flow.

Unfortunately I was running out of time since storage was going to close in 15 minutes. Checked my vehicle for gum but was out...was going to try a MacGyver on the leak. Left some rags around area and a cup with rag in it until tomorrow.

It appears that if I keep the pump off, the leak eventually stops but not sure how much is leaked until it stops. Attached is a picture and guessing whatever is left in that hose is what is leaked out. Is this correct?

Here's a link to a short video with the humming and bubbling sounds I captured. Any ideas?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnA3zzaIB37jgewW...__VvA?e=JcU76o
Ya, it's hard to say, but that pump sounds pretty loud. It should be clear that when the lines are full of water, the pump only sounds when a valve is opened. We typically will open the valves one at a time to clear the lines of air, and then the pump will find it's happy spot after the valves are closed. I noticed you have a valve that's closed next to your waterheater, but I'm sure you've accounted for that. I personally don't have much experience with the waterheater, but you may be hearing bubbeling from it filling up. One way to check is to open the hot-only faucet to full up the WH completely. This may be why your pump is running constantly.

As far as the leak, as long as it's not city water, then yes, you should only loose the hose length of water, but that may not be the case if you have 6 gallons of water in the water heater. You might try opening both valves on your outside shower to let the pressure out if you think there is a leak. Some may pull the diode on the WH to drain the tank. Again, I'm not completely familiar, but I'm sure I will be in the near future. Yeah, that pump pressure switch is super sensitive, and the pump will only turn off if the lines are completely full of water with no air bubbles. GL!
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Old 07-28-2021, 05:27 AM   #6
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Sounds like a similar problem that I just recently had. Your water line may have a tiny crack somewhere and the pump is sucking air which is what is causing it to come on. My pump would turn on every 3 seconds then shut off. My water set up is different than yours. I had a city/tank water valve and the leak was at that valve. I installed a new valve and now it works fine. I would check every fitting you can find with the pump on and listen for any hissing sound. Once you can locate that leak and replace/patch it you should be fine.

Edit: You might be able to hear it hissing without the pump on. I can't recall exactly in what order I heard the hiss I just recall hearing it and then was able to get close enough to see where water had been leaking and I could get my ear close enough to narrow down which valve was leaking. It could even be a bad/poor crimp connection as well.
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Old 07-28-2021, 11:07 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by RyanG16BH View Post
Ya, it's hard to say, but that pump sounds pretty loud. It should be clear that when the lines are full of water, the pump only sounds when a valve is opened. We typically will open the valves one at a time to clear the lines of air, and then the pump will find it's happy spot after the valves are closed. I noticed you have a valve that's closed next to your waterheater, but I'm sure you've accounted for that. I personally don't have much experience with the waterheater, but you may be hearing bubbeling from it filling up. One way to check is to open the hot-only faucet to full up the WH completely. This may be why your pump is running constantly.

As far as the leak, as long as it's not city water, then yes, you should only loose the hose length of water, but that may not be the case if you have 6 gallons of water in the water heater. You might try opening both valves on your outside shower to let the pressure out if you think there is a leak. Some may pull the diode on the WH to drain the tank. Again, I'm not completely familiar, but I'm sure I will be in the near future. Yeah, that pump pressure switch is super sensitive, and the pump will only turn off if the lines are completely full of water with no air bubbles. GL!
Attached pictures of the water heater tag and the position shows it is in the normal operating position. There's another valve that I don't have a picture of but that was closed and for antifreeze. I'm assuming that's correct until you need to winterize the unit.

Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of running water through constantly since I only have the 31 gallon tank to work with and no water source there. The camper is in a storage location and can't park it in front of our condo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Electra glide View Post
Sounds like a similar problem that I just recently had. Your water line may have a tiny crack somewhere and the pump is sucking air which is what is causing it to come on. My pump would turn on every 3 seconds then shut off. My water set up is different than yours. I had a city/tank water valve and the leak was at that valve. I installed a new valve and now it works fine. I would check every fitting you can find with the pump on and listen for any hissing sound. Once you can locate that leak and replace/patch it you should be fine.

Edit: You might be able to hear it hissing without the pump on. I can't recall exactly in what order I heard the hiss I just recall hearing it and then was able to get close enough to see where water had been leaking and I could get my ear close enough to narrow down which valve was leaking. It could even be a bad/poor crimp connection as well.
This is the first time I had an issue with the pump since May but it could have been just a matter of time before it surfaced. I did inspect areas where I could and didn't find any other leaks or remember hearing any hissing without the pump running or when the pump was humming along. I'll see if I can make it later today to check how much of that cup filled up. It appears to be a minor leak at the moment but started to become another issue.

I checked the crimps since that appears to be a common problem on previous years but these seem to be okay thus far.

The other picture was a hose that had some dark sticky stuff on it. Not sure if this was something that snagged on something "dirty" during the installation or some kind of patch job.

Reached out to Forest River warranty and asked if I could get a part mailed or specs but told they don't send parts out. Still waiting on specs and hope I can at least get that.

Guess I could take the connector off and hope only that hose length of water gets spilled into the tight storage area. Just concerned it would keep spilling water and then would be hosed. My dish pan doesn't even fit into that space unless tilted.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:50 PM   #8
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I may have misread the scenario, but you should realize that when the water pump pressurizes the entire system, the segment leading to the city water inlet is also under pressure. The check-valve (one-way valve) for the city water inlet is right in the fitting at the outside where your hose connects. You need to fix that leak before proceeding.

This is a little subtle, but if you have two leaks, when you leave the trailer for a while, each link will drip until the water level is lower than the leak. After the upper leak is above the water, it will draw in air, pulled by the vacuum caused by the lower leak. This fills the plumbing with air. Fixing the first leak may give you a clue as to the second one.

Something else to look at: Make sure the winterization valve is FULLY set to draw from the tank, not just partially set.
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Old 07-28-2021, 03:32 PM   #9
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I may have misread the scenario, but you should realize that when the water pump pressurizes the entire system, the segment leading to the city water inlet is also under pressure. The check-valve (one-way valve) for the city water inlet is right in the fitting at the outside where your hose connects. You need to fix that leak before proceeding.

This is a little subtle, but if you have two leaks, when you leave the trailer for a while, each link will drip until the water level is lower than the leak. After the upper leak is above the water, it will draw in air, pulled by the vacuum caused by the lower leak. This fills the plumbing with air. Fixing the first leak may give you a clue as to the second one.

Something else to look at: Make sure the winterization valve is FULLY set to draw from the tank, not just partially set.
As far as I've seen, the fitting for the city water on the inside is the only point that has leaked. There could be others but that one would need to get fixed first as you mentioned.

The tube connected to the external antifreeze line has the valve handle perpendicular to the line. This valve handle position should close the flow per the tag. This is how it was and assuming it's only open when winterizing and after closing the other two for the heater.
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Old 07-28-2021, 11:18 PM   #10
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Went back to my 96° camper today and there was no water leak until I turned on the water pump. Unfortunately the drop rate increased and decided to take it apart. Re-seated the gasket and breaking that seal made it worse. Reversed the gasket and the leak gushed even more. Put it back, drained the hose and called it a day.

Found what looks like a similar part locally and should pick up tomorrow to attempt the replacement sometime in the evening. Don't have the tools so that's an additional cost. Figured I'd do that before I call around a few places to find out availability for mobile service.

Do they normally mark the antifreeze line with the black sticky stuff? Noticed it on this end as well.

Why does that connection have an elbow while the others don't?

Is the insulation prone to mold/mildew if wet? How long would it take to dry?

Another vid with a real leak now.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AnA3zzaIB37jgewYQVEy2tG5hj0njQ
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Old 07-29-2021, 08:06 AM   #11
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Always take a toolbox with you. It can turn a spoiled weekend into the satisfaction of a job correctly completed in 15 minutes.

The bouncing around that trailers get almost guarantees that something will need tightening.
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Old 07-29-2021, 12:23 PM   #12
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Always take a toolbox with you. It can turn a spoiled weekend into the satisfaction of a job correctly completed in 15 minutes.

The bouncing around that trailers get almost guarantees that something will need tightening.
I second that. A great tool set that I keep with me can be found here

Also, whenever you're away, you should always keep some DampRid inside the camper.
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Old 07-29-2021, 12:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by RedRoverComeOver View Post
Went back to my 96° camper today and there was no water leak until I turned on the water pump. Unfortunately the drop rate increased and decided to take it apart. Re-seated the gasket and breaking that seal made it worse. Reversed the gasket and the leak gushed even more. Put it back, drained the hose and called it a day.

Found what looks like a similar part locally and should pick up tomorrow to attempt the replacement sometime in the evening. Don't have the tools so that's an additional cost. Figured I'd do that before I call around a few places to find out availability for mobile service.

Do they normally mark the antifreeze line with the black sticky stuff? Noticed it on this end as well.

Why does that connection have an elbow while the others don't?

Is the insulation prone to mold/mildew if wet? How long would it take to dry?

Another vid with a real leak now.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AnA3zzaIB37jgewYQVEy2tG5hj0njQ
That leak doesn't look good at all. I don't see why that connection needs a 90 degree elbow, unless the hose might hit something behind it. IMO, you should bring those parts, and a piece of the hose if you have it, to your local HD/Hardware store. Have someone familiar with plumbing help you find the replacement parts. Either that, or take it in under warranty. I personally would make the fix myself.
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Old 07-29-2021, 09:22 PM   #14
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Mission Accomplished

Tried the warranty route but several RV places in the area don't have service departments and when I got to any that did, September was the earliest they could get to it and and no mobile service.

I have tools in the RV but not what was required for this. I'm not a plumber but played one today and got it fixed for $142 in new tools and parts. That included plan B and C for my plan B of fixing it myself. Now I have the parts along with the straight adapters in case I run into the same issue with others.

No other leaks found as expected and the water pump works better than new because I had that leak since purchase, but didn't find it until I was a couple days into a trip.

Thanks to those who provided input.


Now will Forest River reimburse me for the repair?
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Old 07-30-2021, 08:12 AM   #15
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You're counting it wrong

Quote:
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I have tools in the RV but not what was required for this. I'm not a plumber but played one today and got it fixed for $142 in new tools and parts. That included plan B and C for my plan B of fixing it myself. Now I have the parts along with the straight adapters in case I run into the same issue with others.
You're accounting is wrong. The cost was for the parts. The tools are an investment which will return dividends for the rest of your life.
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Now will Forest River reimburse me for the repair?
Be sure to let us know the outcome.

(Don't be surprised if they use the same accounting scheme I did.)
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Old 07-30-2021, 01:45 PM   #16
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You're accounting is wrong. The cost was for the parts. The tools are an investment which will return dividends for the rest of your life.

Be sure to let us know the outcome.

(Don't be surprised if they use the same accounting scheme I did.)

Don't know about that investment since I have tools/things that have never been used in decades. That's called waste. I'm sure plenty of the "tool" guys can attest to that and that's why they like to show off their collection in the hopes someone can borrow them.



Not going to bother with warranty since I know they'll say no and probably reject anything that happens afterwards if I touched it.
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