2023 MiniLite 2109S Wire Routing

[gorbur]

I'm in the process of upgrading my solar charging system. The factory installed Gopower PWM solar controller is being removed and replaced with a Renogy Rover 30A MPPT controller. The Gopower was located in the upper cabinet in close proximity to the PV supply (24v) from the roof. The new controller and other devices are to be located in the drivers side of the front passthrough.

The issue is the routing of the new 24v PV lines to the Renogy controller.

So far it looks like the most viable is to follow the DC shore charger line. That is, taking it across the trailer at the back, under the shower/sink and forward above the floor deck where it drops into the underfloor space then passthrough compartment. Where the PV lines pop through the roof deck its easy to get the lines down to floor level.
What is difficult is the short distance (30") where access to the underside is crossing to where it would come back up behind the shore charger. Currently a AC line goes that route but I know the grey tank is in the way.
The hope is to do this work without removing the coroplast liner.

Is this a good route? Are there other routes?, snags to anticipate? Helpful advice appreciated.

[SeaDog]

Which cabinet are you talking about if its the group over the bed why not run the wires thru that cabinet to the hanging closet on the drivers side of the bed punch a hole thru to the pass thru? Just wondering.

[gorbur]

Its the upper units above the stove. In this case the one closest to the man door.
But you got me thinking on alternates. What i'm checking out now is going forward in the lower kitchen cabinets, behind the furnace. I would make a duct for the 2 or 3 feet to the carpeted area then into the passthrough. Wire runs down to about 23' I'm liking it that if I can get safely by the furnace. I still like the quality of the Minilite but when I first saw the wiring I thought my eyes would bleed.
Thanks for getting me thinking.

[SeaDog]

Given the location another route is to drop the underbelly route the wires forward pop a hole in the pass through where you want to mount the controller while the under belly is open cleanup the rats nest of wires and duct work and seal the holes left by FR (experience talking) That way you can kill two birds with on stone. JMHO

[gorbur]

That was my first plan. I thought FR had some intention to have the liner removeable for servicing. Clearly not. I just know that once i drop it theres going to be alot of work. Hence im leaving that as a fall project. For me i should get some experience with the trailer as im sure there that will bring forward other issues.
No wrinkles on the route by the furnace so im going that route. Seems good and easily accessed. Thanks again.

[JimM2109S]

My 2022 model has, I believe, a slightly different cabinet configuration, with the Go Power solar controller mounted in a cabinet below the TV to the trailer's front side of the kitchen cabinets. When I installed my battery monitor beneath the solar controller, I used a section of plastic wire mold cut to the proper length and mounted it on the floor between the TV/solar controller vertical cabinet and the passenger side's carpeted box that is the pass thru. I routed the wiring up over the storage compartment's passenger door, then utilized the existing wiring chase on the upper front wall of the pass thru to connect to the shunt.

I am also in the process of running a 2awg welding cable from the power center to the pass thru, to hopefully get better charging and true Li detection from the -AD converter. I mounted two 100ah Li batteries in the pass thru. I'm running the 2 awg thru the cabinet behind the toilet, beneath the shower, thru sink cabinet, beneath the slide out sofa, thru the wood chase "box" on the driver side floor between the slide and the storage compartment, beneath the water heater and to the batteries. I intend to build a narrow width chase on the storage floor to protect the wire between the heater and the front wall where the wiring will tie into the battery connections.

[gorbur]

Thanks JimM.
On mine the Gopower controller is just above the Onecontrol touch pad on the upper cabinet facing aft. (By the man door). I decided to do the route you chose. Yesterday I drilled the holes and made a jig to form a 4ft. length of 1/2" PVC conduit. With the offset it fits quite snug where the floor meets the wall. The rest of the routing is as you suggest. If others are doing this keep in mind the carpeted bulkhead has the 1-1/2" square aluminum tube frame to contend with. On the cabinet side, the furnace is 2" above floor so lots of clearance there.
At a later date im going to do the same upgrade on the dc shore power line. I toned out the line and it appears to go direct to the master disconnect switch.
Do you know if tied to any other circuits along the way?

[JimM2109S]

It should be a straight run to the main disconnect on the tongue. I energized the 2awg with the converter today. Drained the LiFePo's until everything stopped working, then tried multiple times to get the -AD to switch to Li mode. Nada, very disappointing. I have not upgraded the negative run from the converter to frame (factory used either 8 or 10awg, haven't found the markings yet) and 6awg that I installed from shunt to frame ground on tongue. I could shorten the wire runs a bit, but don't see the justification if this dang -AD won't switch to (and then stay in) Li mode.

I am happy that the converter is now outputting 47-50a based on the Renogy battery monitor, with about .7 to .8 v line loss (most likely due to the small gauge negative wiring). Converter lugs measure 14.0v, battery connection measures 13.26v.

I plan to call WFCO next week and see if I can get a tech on the phone to discuss. My converter was previously sent to WFCO for a program upgrade. I was able to get it into Li mode only once and cannot recall whether I had only one battery connected at the time or two. WFCO really needs a converter with a switch for manual control of the charge profile.

[gorbur]

I pretty much have the routing finished and thought I would post a pic of the outcome. This is by far the easiest way to get the PV lines up front to the passthrough. The difficulty was trying to get a colour to suit. Ended up with a light gray and a clear coat on top for durability. A bushing on either end keeps it from sliding back and forth. 1/2" handles the 2 x 8ga DC lines and one ethernet line.

Jim, I think I'm going to follow your lead and upgrade the shore power supply now that I have things apart. I have a strong suspicion I'll be changing out my WFCO charger as well. Between the Rover controller, DC to DC charger I can see contention issues. Better if I have something I can set the profile precisely and have it all in sync.
On the Minilite there's lots of vacant area behind the distribution centre. Perfect if I can figure a way to ventilate it.