2205S solar panels vs. battery disconnect

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by PhilSR5

I have 2 disconnect switches, one at the battery (AGM Renogy 200A/H) and one at the solar panel charger.

Our fridge runs on propane while boondocking and on a 2000w inverter while driving.

I have added a switch at the breaker panel to select either Grid power or Inverter power

Why do you run it on a AC inverter, when you can simply run it on propane while traveling.
RVers have been traveling with their fridges on propane, for at least 75 years.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Why do you run it on a AC inverter, when you can simply run it on propane while traveling.
RVers have been traveling with their fridges on propane, for at least 75 years.

Preference?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Preference?

Well, they were already running it on propane, while boondocking. Not sure if my TV's alternator could keep the trailer's battery charged up, if the inverter is providing AC power to the electric side of the fridge. The propane side would use only a tiny amount of 12v battery power.

[Bob.n.Denise]

18 LT - thanx for the specs on your system. Looks Greek to me, so I'll have to study it a couple times.

[PhilSR5]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Why do you run it on a AC inverter, when you can simply run it on propane while traveling.
RVers have been traveling with their fridges on propane, for at least 75 years.

I don't feel comfortable driving with the propane on, there is only a little spark needed to completely ignite the propane gas.
Then you need to turn it off when entering a gas station or a tunnel, it is also forbidden on ferries.
Not even sure the insurance will cover any damages caused by propane fire
My inverter and battery have no problem at all powering the 400w fridge, specially if it's already cold when going back on the road.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by PhilSR5

I don't feel comfortable driving with the propane on, there is only a little spark needed to completely ignite the propane gas.

Then you need to turn it off when entering a gas station or a tunnel, it is also forbidden on ferries.

Not even sure the insurance will cover any damages caused by propane fire

My inverter and battery have no problem at all powering the 400w fridge, specially if it's already cold when going back on the road.

I understand that you have concerns but as I said, RVers have been traveling with their fridges on propane, for over 75 years. It was the only choice until the cheaper 12v only fridges and residential fridges with inverters, came along. If it was that common of a problem, they would have been banned decades ago.

[18LT]

I might need to replace my state of charge meter with a better one. My inexpensive one has been working very well for two years up and now it doesn’t seem to be tracking charge and discharge wattage properly.
I’ll separate the batteries, top charge each one, reconnect them and reset the meter.

[Bob.n.Denise]

Originally Posted by 18LT

Our present system consists of;

Replacing the factory installed Coleman Mach thermostat with a digital thermostat reduced our roof air's run time dramatically. It holds the inside air temp within two degrees, which is way better than the Coleman thermostat.

which digital thermostat did you use?
thanx

[18LT]

Originally Posted by Bob.n.Denise

which digital thermostat did you use?
thanx

I bought a Briidea thermostat on Amazon, which was marketed as an RV thermostat. It had horrible reviews but I think it was $29 when I bought it.
The first one I got was DOA so I returned it and the second one is fine.
I don't think it's available anymore but I think the company came out with a new and improved version.
Most folks just buy a home digital thermostat. There are a lot of videos showing how to connect a residential thermostat and I probably would recommend going that route. The digital RV thermostats can be installed very easy but they're a bit on the pricey side, in my opinion.