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Old 04-23-2017, 08:28 PM   #1
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2504s 110 volt mods

Now that I finally found out how to post pics, I thought I would show the mods I have done to the 110volt electrical system.
The first 2 pics are an extra outlet I ran so we can plug into the 20amp plug on the post to run an extra heater without using any of the 30 amp service. I just used 12 gauge Romex to run from the outlet to outer wall.
I also changed the bathroom outlet with one with a built in night light, works great for using the bathroom at night.
I also replaced both outlets on each end and of the couch with outlets that have built in USB chargers.
Finally I put in a outlet in the curbside pass thru to run the cordless impact charger used to run down the stabilizer jacks. Jay
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:32 PM   #2
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Sorry about the pictures being sideways. Still leaning. Jay
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:50 PM   #3
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Interesting mods
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:54 PM   #4
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I noticed you mounted the receptacles, ground up, in the orientation one would commonly find them in a medical setting, and the opposite most building contractors would orient them.

There is no "right" or "wrong", just common and uncommon.

Are you a medical building professional?

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Old 04-23-2017, 09:20 PM   #5
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No just a retired truck mechanic. IIRC that outlet fit better in the shallow box like that. The wire for the pass thru outlet is in the same box. Now I am curious, why do medical buildings have their outlets mounted ground up? Jay
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:26 PM   #6
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Supposedly it's safer, as you are more likely to connect the ground contact first.

The real reason is probably that some bureaucrat demanded the specification get written that way, and it's the only way a medical facility can pass their constant inspections.

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Old 04-23-2017, 11:29 PM   #7
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Assuming your bathroom outlet was originally a GFCI outlet, and the new night-light one does not appear to be a GFCI, did you rewire so a GFCI outlet elsewhere to protect the circuits or did you just drop GFCI protection?
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:28 AM   #8
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I did the same mod to my 251rks, (inside and outside) so that I can run 110 power to an oil filled heater.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:26 PM   #9
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On our 2504 there is only one GFCI outlet for the whole camper. It's on the cabinet right by the front door. Also it seems that all the outlets are controlled by one circuit breaker in the panel. Even the outside outlet only has a GFCI sticker. All those outlets on one 15 amp breaker. On the new outlet and wire to the outside of the camper I used a GFCI outlet in case the pedestal doesn't have one. Jay
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2504 View Post
On our 2504 there is only one GFCI outlet for the whole camper. It's on the cabinet right by the front door. Also it seems that all the outlets are controlled by one circuit breaker in the panel. Even the outside outlet only has a GFCI sticker. All those outlets on one 15 amp breaker. On the new outlet and wire to the outside of the camper I used a GFCI outlet in case the pedestal doesn't have one. Jay
OK. Most TT's I've seen seem to have the GFCI in the bathroom.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2504 View Post
On our 2504 there is only one GFCI outlet for the whole camper. It's on the cabinet right by the front door. Also it seems that all the outlets are controlled by one circuit breaker in the panel. Even the outside outlet only has a GFCI sticker. All those outlets on one 15 amp breaker. On the new outlet and wire to the outside of the camper I used a GFCI outlet in case the pedestal doesn't have one. Jay
that is the reason I devided my TT up with two added circuits instead of one for everything I now have three 15 amp circuits.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:21 PM   #12
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Elec. mods

I read that ground up protects the hot and neutral if the plug should be partialy pulled out.
SeaDog, do you know how many breakers are allowed on a 30 amp panel? I have read that 6 branch circuits if one is a 20 amp and 8 if all are 15 amp.
I did like you did and added a double 15 and split one circuit that had the frig. and bedroom on it. Now the frig is on its own circuit and the bedroom is on its own. So I can use a bedroom heater. The other added circuit goes to a dedicated outlet for a heater in the living area.
Has anyone tapped into the 20 amp AC circuit for a dedicated heater circuit? Seems kind of a waste of 20 amp circuit for AC when most of your camping is in northern Michigan. Also, if using the AC you are not going to be using an electric heater.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:04 PM   #13
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The number of breakers depends on if they are dedicated circuits or not, If they are going to receptacles they are considered non-dedicated and number is not an issue. I did not use split breakers my panel had room for three additional breakers I only added two.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:32 PM   #14
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I haven't checked in some time but our outlets share a breaker with either the microwave or the refrigator. We haven't had any problems popping breakers so far. What about using one 15 amp breaker for the fridge and microwave combined and another 15 amp for just the outlets? Has anyone tried this? Jay
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:16 PM   #15
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I went out to the camper and checked the breakers this morning. The microwave is on its own breaker, the manual says it needs 12.5 amps at 120volts. ALL the outlets share a 15 amp breaker with the fridge. The manual for the fridge says it uses a 175watts at 120volts. Hardly worth changing to me. Jay
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:11 PM   #16
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Breakers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2504 View Post
I haven't checked in some time but our outlets share a breaker with either the microwave or the refrigator. We haven't had any problems popping breakers so far. What about using one 15 amp breaker for the fridge and microwave combined and another 15 amp for just the outlets? Has anyone tried this? Jay
The bedroom and frig on our MH was on the same circuit. I added a breaker not to isolate the frig. but to isolate the bedroom circuit so I can have an electric bedroom heater that draws, on high, 1750 watts or close to 15 amps.
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