2506S - 120V circuits in kitchen?

[cheeseheadjim]

Hi All !

Well - we have swapped our 2017 23IKSS for a 2018 25FKS. This is the Flagstaff version of the Rockwood 2506S.

We went to the Wisconsin RV show in Milwaukee, "just to look around", and ended up making a great deal on a new 25FKS. So now I have to wait until spring rolls around to pick it up & start the fun, and plan my modifications.

A question for Rockwood 2506S owners...are all of the interior 120V outlets on a single circuit ? If so, has anyone added a circuit to separate the kitchen circuit ? On my 23IKSS I added a circuit to separate the island form the rest of the trailer, which gave flexibility to run plug in appliances or heater.

Jim S

[rockfordroo]

You've just discovered the down side of going to an RV show to just "browse." (Or maybe it's actually the up side??? - LOL)

Regarding your question: I don't have a 2506S, but on my Mini Lite 2503S, all my outlets are all on the same circuit, which is protected by the GFCI outlet in my bathroom. Based on other threads I've read, I'd bet that yours is probably the same. It seems to be a pretty standard way they wire these things.

However, looking at pics of your unit online, the outlet in YOUR bathroom did not look like the actual GFCI outlet; it looked like a normal outlet with the "GFCI Protected" sticker on it, so the actual GFCI outlet is located somewhere else. You'll have to look at all your 120VAC outlets to find it. When you find it, push the test button so it turns OFF. Now test ALL your 120VAC outlets and see which ones are dead (I'm guessing it will be all of them - except for your fridge and water heater, of course). In any case, any dead ones are powered through that GFCI.

That means there's a 120VAC line from your power distribution panels' circuit breaker (located under your fridge by the entry door) to the GFCI and then to all the other breakers. In other words, all the others are daisy-chained off the GFCI outlet. So if you want to power any of the affected outlets separately, you have to break this daisy-chain. You'll have to run a separate 120VAC line from 1 of 2 places: either a separate circuit breaker if your power distribution panel has a spare location (this is best) OR you would have to tie into the GFCI outlet on the feed side (i.e., upstream) connections (not best, especially with the crappy RV "speed box" outlets - see discussion below).

If you aren't familiar with 110VAC wiring, you should get someone who is.

Note that these RV "speed box" outlets (see pic) have snap-on backs that trap the wiring and have metal slots that slice the wiring insulation and make the electrical contact.


They are quick and easy for the builders to use and since the connections are internal, they don't require standard electrical boxes. BUT: you can only put one line going in and one line coming out. They don't handle 2 lines going in and/or out. Here's a video that will inform you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgrFPleQqhc

[cheeseheadjim]

Hey Rockfordroo !

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I do know that the GFCI outlet is on the side of the oven - directly across the entry from the breaker panel (which is next to the fridge as you stated). I will have to assume that there is a single circuit for all of the 120V outlets, so the trick is how to run a separate feed from the breaker panel (a new breaker which I will install) to an new outlet (which I will install).

Tying into the feeder side of the GFCI would be easy, but would not help any, because the new outlet would still be protected by the same breaker that feeds the GFCI circuit. I need to install a new breaker in the breaker panel, and then run wiring to a new outlet. On the 23IKSS there is a channel that runs under the floor from the island to the back of the trailer, so running to the breaker panel on the 23IKSS was easy peasy.

I am not sure how the wiring runs in the 2506S/25FKS, and was hoping that there is a similar channel under the floor for the wiring. That is something I will have to figure out when I get the unit in April. I was just wondering if anyone else has added a 120V circuit for the kitchen, and how the wiring can be run.

Jim S

[Jay2504]

I can tell you that all the outlets on our 2504s run off of 1 circuit breaker and 1 GFI located to the left as you walk in the door. This would mean both kitchen outlets, Otha sides of the couch, the tv and bunk outlets and the one in the bathroom. Also I believe the one outside near the kitchen window. Because we have the same basic size camper, yours will likely be the same. Jay

[George Creekmore]

I have Salem 27rks and I plan to run separate power feed to a couple of added outlets with and outside male connection using twist lock type and plugging them into the camp site extra outlet box this will give you separate power source and not cause any problem with your units box, I have all saw people add and separate panel for this type circuit. You can buy these twist lock housing at most camping locations. Hope this helps. Also I will be using size 12 wire with a #12 SO drop cord most likely a #14 would be ok but I like things little extra.
I have added and photo of the unit I purchased from Amazon about $35.00

[cheeseheadjim]

Originally Posted by George Creekmore

I have Salem 27rks and I plan to run separate power feed to a couple of added outlets with and outside male connection using twist lock type and plugging them into the camp site extra outlet box this will give you separate power source and not cause any problem with your units box, I have all saw people add and separate panel for this type circuit. You can buy these twist lock housing at most camping locations. Hope this helps. Also I will be using size 12 wire with a #12 SO drop cord most likely a #14 would be ok but I like things little extra.
I have added and photo of the unit I purchased from Amazon about $35.00

Attachment 167433

THANKS, George !

That gives me another option to consider.

Jim S

[George Creekmore]

2506S - 120V circuits in kitchen?

I have Salem 27rks and I plan to run separate power feed to a couple of added outlets with and outside male connection using twist lock type and plugging them into the camp site extra outlet box this will give you separate power source and not cause any problem with your units box, I have all saw people add and separate panel for this type circuit. You can buy these twist lock housing at most camping locations. Hope this helps. Also I will be using size 12 wire with a #12 SO drop cord most likely a #14 would be ok but I like things little extra.

I have added and photo of the unit I purchased from Amazon about $35.00





http://www.forestriverforums.com/for....php?p=1775311

[Jay2504]

I did something similar to what George Creekmore did except on my outside wall I used the standard 15 amp male plug. That way any extension cord that you have will plug in to the pass through. I bought a 15 foot 12 gauge cord to tap into the pedestal. Either way you choose is a good idea. So far I only have one extra outlet on the inside of the camper located so hair driers and space heaters can be plugged into it. I am also putting a outlet on that circuit so the hot water heater could be plugged into if I wanted. That part isn’t done yet. Jay