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Old 08-22-2017, 12:09 AM   #1
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Question 50amp 2017/2906ws Newbie Owner - generator dilemma

We are so illiterate when it comes to generators! We bought a Champion 100155 thinking it had plenty of power for our 2906ws 50amp, but we can't plug into it!

Now I don't know if I should sell it or try to exchange it. Everything I've read says it's too noisy for a campground. But how do you find a portable inverter generator that's for 50amp and doesn't cost a fortune.

We wanted something for boondocking. But I feel I am more confused than ever regarding this generator business. The smaller portable generators like 3100 watt - if we needed to run the AC in the BR only, would that be enough? Or do we need to parallel 2 of those together? Is one portable generator even an option for a 50amp trailer?

I don't want to be stuck only going to places that have electrical. And right now solar on the roof is not an option, although we do have the Zamp solar ready plug in on our 2906ws.

What would you RV veterans buy if you were getting a generator for a 50amp TT? What should we avoid? Is it important to get a generator with an inverter?
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:18 AM   #2
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First, that generator you bought is NOT an inverter generator.
It's a loud open frame contractor-style generator.
At 74db, it'll get you kicked out of most campgrounds for exceeding noise levels.

If you want to do boondocking, which is in undeveloped areas or camp at NASCAR races, then it would be acceptable.

I looked through your other posts and didn't see any that asked what would be a good INVERTER generator for campground usage.

I think that if you want to dry camp in campgrounds that don't have electric hookups, you need to use one a/c and use a 3000w+ inverter or a pair of paralleled 2000w inverter generators.

Save running two a/c units when you have hookups.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judygo View Post
We are so illiterate when it comes to generators! We bought a Champion 100155 thinking it had plenty of power for our 2906ws 50amp, but we can't plug into it!



Now I don't know if I should sell it or try to exchange it. Everything I've read says it's too noisy for a campground. But how do you find a portable inverter generator that's for 50amp and doesn't cost a fortune.



We wanted something for boondocking. But I feel I am more confused than ever regarding this generator business. The smaller portable generators like 3100 watt - if we needed to run the AC in the BR only, would that be enough? Or do we need to parallel 2 of those together? Is one portable generator even an option for a 50amp trailer?



I don't want to be stuck only going to places that have electrical. And right now solar on the roof is not an option, although we do have the Zamp solar ready plug in on our 2906ws.



What would you RV veterans buy if you were getting a generator for a 50amp TT? What should we avoid? Is it important to get a generator with an inverter?

I agree with bikendan. We have a 50 amp TT and use our Honda 3000is inverter when boondocking. You'll need a twist lock adapter to plug into the generator that provides an RV 30 receptacle. Then plug in a 30-to-50 amp dog bone adapter. Now plug in your camper. You'll be able to run one AC, and be sure to run your fridge and WH in LP mode. If you need to use a high amperage appliance, i.e., microwave, hair dryer, toaster, etc., temporarily turn off the AC.

Camco 55333 RV 30 AMP 3-Prong Generator Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011FLODA..._v2cNzbHP2N4JS

Camco 55185 PowerGrip 30M/50F AMP 18" Dogbone Electrical Adapter with Handles 3750W/125V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOGI..._C3cNzbECWAZQK

You may find this thread of interest as well.

Happy Camping!

Inverter generator

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d.php?t=140054
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:20 AM   #4
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Check out this thread too.

Generator(s) to run 15k A/C?

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d.php?t=139929
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:31 AM   #5
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To the OP, FORGET Solar You don't have enough Roof to supply 50 AMP power! Youroo!!
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:34 AM   #6
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You can use the generator you purchased.
You'll need some adapters as mentioned.

Just be aware you won't be able to use this generator in a campground type setting.

In the boondocks or on private property, you shouldn't get any complaints.

If that isn't what you intended, you'll need to look for a different generator.

There are hundreds of threads here on generator use if you search.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:00 AM   #7
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While your RV is a '50a' coach, that does NOT mean that you have to have a '50a' Shore Power connection or 50a output Generator to have electricity, or even to provide enough power to run 'most' things...

some info:

- a 50a Shore Power rv park connection provides 100amps of total power, not just 50. It is actually TWO separate lines of 50a power, through a 50a Double Pole breaker, that provides two different lines of electricity into your coach's breaker box. The breaker box in your coach has two 50a breakers, giving both 'sides' of your coach up to 50amps of power, independent of each other. Meaning, one AC unit might be on one line, the other AC on the other line. These lines also divide up the amperage needs from your other draws, such as electric water heater, microwave outlet, fridge outlet, charger, etc., etc... This is why the 50a shore power plug has FOUR prongs, not three like a 30a plug.

- a 30a Shore Power service, though, ONLY gives you up to 30amps of total power, 70amps less than your '50a' coach can handle, BUT...

- you can 'ADJUST' down to 30amps by using a 30a adapter for your 50a shore power cord. There are several types, but the easiest is the simple small one found at any RV store or Walmart. Now your coach can pull up to 30amps of power to supply your needs, but you'll have to remember that this is MUCH LESS than the 100amps that a 50a plug would normally provide, and therefore you must adjust your usage.
Run only ONE AC unit - and turn off all items that you don't really need to be running, such as electric water heater, which draws a lot of amps. When you start tripping the 30a breaker on your generator, you'll start to learn what items you can, and can't, run on the generator at the same time.
an example: If you want to run the microwave, you might have to cut off the AC unit while it's running, etc.

- a good and quiet drycamping option for 30a service is the Honda eU2000 and it's 'companion' model that can 'link' together to give you 30a service. Two smaller quieter and lighter generators are much easier to handle, to store, and if you don't always need 30a, you can use just one, maybe to charge your batteries while you are away.

the questions about generator usage 'times' within certain campground is a little more difficult, as each one may have their own rules. Most might use the quiet times of 10pm to 7am - No Generator Usage. But we've also seen some that are much more limited, such as one in the Yukon that had the usage hours of only 'between the hours of:' 8am to 9am, and 6pm to 8pm. (!, wow!)
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:48 PM   #8
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We are in the market for an inverter/generator too. I'm going to check out the new unit from Harbor Freight that is getting very good reviews https://m.harborfreight.com/3500-wat...tor-63584.html
$699.99
Hope this helps.
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Old 08-22-2017, 05:07 PM   #9
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We are in the market for an inverter/generator too. I'm going to check out the new unit from Harbor Freight that is getting very good reviews https://m.harborfreight.com/3500-wat...tor-63584.html
$699.99
Hope this helps.
I went through the cheaper Honda 3000is clone a few years ago and learned a valuable lesson.

I purchased Kipor 3000, which was basically a Honda 3000is, but only cost $750 or so with free shipping. It worked great the first time out. I thumbed my nose at my camping buddies that had spent $1799+ for those super quiet Hondas. Next time out, after a total of 60-hours including the initial trip, it failed. Engine was still running fine, but no power out. It wasn't in an overload state either. Took it to the dealer that had sold it to me for a warranty replacement, which would take a month or two. There was a Camping World nearby, so I purchased the 3000is for $1799. It was August in NC and it was 108 degrees at the campground. The new Honda worked great and I still use it to this day for rough camping. Never a problem with it. And it's truly super quiet.

The replacement Kipor finally showed up. I took it on the next boondock camping trip & it lasted 27-hours. This time it was the engine that failed. Luckily I had my Honda 3000is with me.

I ended up junking the 2nd Kipor as the 1-year warranty was done.

So, purchase what you want, but for me, I learned a lesson the hard way. You get what you pay for.

The HF generator only has a 90-day warranty as a unit, with a 2-year warranty on the "emissions control system of the engine" whatever that means.

Just saying...

BTW, my Honda 3000is has 1,334-hours on it and it's still running strong.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:19 AM   #10
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One thing I've always wondered...What is it about the "inverter" style generators that make them quieter? and Why is it so expensive? After all, they all use an engine to generate. Is it the engine itself in an inverter generator that makes it so quiet, or something else?
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:06 AM   #11
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One thing I've always wondered...What is it about the "inverter" style generators that make them quieter? and Why is it so expensive? After all, they all use an engine to generate. Is it the engine itself in an inverter generator that makes it so quiet, or something else?
It is several things and without getting too technical...

The inverter generators run at much slower RPM's just because of the way they produce electrical current.

Second, the inverter generators are more 'enclosed' than an open-frame, contractor type generator. They have a case or body that surrounds the entire unit.
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:16 AM   #12
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The cheaper “open frame” generators use an alternator to produce the AC current output and run at a constant 3600 rpm to produce the 120 VAC output at 60 Hz. An “inverter” generator uses an alternator and solid-state diodes to make a DC voltage that then powers an electronic solid-state inverter to create the 120 VAC output at 60 Hz. In the inverter generator, the motor driving the system can run slower when the load is light and it speeds up as more power is needed, all while the output remains 120 VAC at 60 Hz. Running slower saves fuel and is quieter. Some cheaper inverter generators don’t produce a pure sine wave at 60 Hz. These “modified” sine wave inverters are cheaper than “pure” sine wave inverters used in quality generators.

Members of this forum report good luck with several brands of inverter generators. However, I recommend the Honda or Yamaha brands. As mentioned earlier, two 2000 W inverter generators are easier to move around than one 3000 W unit but they have a limited run time. I usually use just one 2000 W unit unless I need to power the air conditioner.

Use this forum’s search function to read up on this subject. There are many opinions and lots of good information available.
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Old 08-24-2017, 09:25 AM   #13
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[...] It was August in NC and it was 108 degrees at the campground. The new Honda worked great and I still use it to this day for rough camping. Never a problem with it. And it's truly super quiet. [...]
Sitting inside your RV with the A/C on high, that generator outside will be whisper quiet. To everyone else not in an RV with an A/C on, it is not super quiet. It's not mildly quiet. It's mildly noisy.

This dovetails to the other question, which people answered pretty well: why do inverter generators run quieter? I don't want to repeat the good info that was already very well articulated above. But, note that one of the operating principles was variable speed and RPM of the generator's engine.

What that means is that when you turn on the generator, it's super quiet. Everyone's happy. If you use the generator, it gets noisier. It gets noisier based on the load. So, if you're using it to recharge your battery, it's still pretty quiet. Immediate neighbors might be irritated, but few others will know it's running. But, a great use model. Run furnace, lights, other 12VDC items at night off the battery and then charge the battery the next day. Rinse and repeat.

The issue is when you put the hard load on the generator. Running an A/C, running the microwave oven, maybe firing up a 1500W ceramic heater inside, the A/C, a large hairdryer, maybe a bunch of smaller devices at the same time, and, of course, the A/C. These things really suck the power and, consequently, put a big strain on the generator. Thus, the generator runs harder ........ and noisier. At this point, when using the genny to run appliances, it's not quiet. Everyone is listening to your generator at that point, instead of the wind through the trees, kids playing, the babbling brook, and other happy nature sounds.

I'm not a generator basher. I plan to get and use one. I've also camped around a lot of these super quiet Honda and Yamaha generators. I agree that they're super quiet ... right up to the point of when they're used.

Run your genny and keep cool. I would/will. Just don't fool yourself into believing that nobody can hear it. They can. They don't like it.

And, it's not that difficult to justify. I had to listen to you warm your diesel truck up for 30 minutes this morning, I think you can listen to my genny for the next 45 minutes. I had to listen to your screaming kids for 2 hours when I was trying to enjoy my coffee and read a book, I think you can listen to my genny for the next hour. And so on. It's not insidious to make some noise and run a genny for a short spell. Just don't fool yourself into believing that your genny is whisper quiet and nobody hears it. That's just silly and starts becoming willful ignorance.

Good luck.
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Old 08-24-2017, 10:11 PM   #14
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Right on 67L48! I didn't use decibel meter but everyone around me agreed that my friends Honda 2000 was just as loud as the Harbor Freight 3200 open frame generator, WHEN THE HONDA WAS LOADED. In this case a electric skillet drawing 1500 watts was the load on the Honda. Of course theHonda would quiet right down when the skillet got hot enough and cut power to its heater. But to the OPs question, the generator that was purchased will be REALLY loud not to mention the amount of gas it will use. Might I recommend a good hard evaluation of your real electrical needs when boondocking. When you have hookups, try to cool the unit with 1 AC. Is it enough or do you need 2 for sure? Are you willing to turn off the AC for a few minutes to run the microwave? Full power to a 50 amp TT. Would require a 12,000 watt generator, which most of us don't think is practical. Might I suggest 2 champion 3400 inverter generators and a parallel kit. This would run both AC s at once. 2 Honda 2000 in parallel will work also with soft start kits on both AC units but there won't be much leftover for anything else. Jay
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Old 08-27-2017, 05:51 PM   #15
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Question, I'm looking at a hf 8750 generator that has. 120/240 plug.
If I plug a 50 amp generator pigtail into this 120/240 receptacle will it have enough power to power both the a/c if I turn them on at different times
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:09 PM   #16
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Question, I'm looking at a hf 8750 generator that has. 120/240 plug.
If I plug a 50 amp generator pigtail into this 120/240 receptacle will it have enough power to power both the a/c if I turn them on at different times
If that is the Harbor Freight 8750? then yes it can run 2 AC units. 240v twist lock, you will need a adapter from RV 50amp to twist lock!
I have a Sandpiper Park Model, it has 2 15k AC units and I can run both at the same time plus alot of other stuff, like Microwave!!!

BUT they are extremely NOISY!!!! If you run both AC's, you better be 500 feet from any other campsite!!!
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Old 08-30-2017, 04:45 PM   #17
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Plug is not equal to wattage

Some other folks have said this with lots of great info, but I want to just state it really clearly and simply:

The shape or size of the plug on your RV and the wattage the RV uses are two completely different things. You should size your generator based on the wattage you want to have available for the RV to use.

Using wattage as your calculation helps you avoid confusion about the dual legs of a 50 amp adapter, dogbone questions, etc. etc.

Figure out how many watts you need, and then buy an inverter generator that can supply those watts. If you want to run a 1,000 watt microwave while kicking on an AC that takes 3,000 starting watts simultaneously, you need a 4,000 watt inverter generator. If you just want to run 60 watts of a TV and 700 watts max of a charger/converter for your batteries, then buy a 1000 watt generator. After you figure out the generator sizing you can figure out the wiring later using adapter plugs.

So, to sum up:
1. Figure out how much wattage you need.
2. Buy generator based on wattage. Buy an inverter generator so your neighbors don't turn hostile.
3. Figure out the adapter plugs needed to plug in your rig.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:35 PM   #18
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Search my posting on another thread about the new Firman inverter generator..3200 /2900watts 58-62 decibels 3 year warranty plus Costco's great return policy..etc etc. $549 ..love it wheels ,handles,and all ...fits under tonneau cover!
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:35 PM   #19
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If that is the Harbor Freight 8750? then yes it can run 2 AC units. 240v twist lock, you will need a adapter from RV 50amp to twist lock!
I have a Sandpiper Park Model, it has 2 15k AC units and I can run both at the same time plus alot of other stuff, like Microwave!!!

BUT they are extremely NOISY!!!! If you run both AC's, you better be 500 feet from any other campsite!!!
That beast has NO business being in any campground!
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:55 PM   #20
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That beast has NO business being in any campground!
YES!!! I was so sorry I bought that.... It is now is for emergency home use or dragging up to my 4 acres of land in Oregon!! even then I have put my pick up between it and the house!!!
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