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Old 11-16-2010, 03:19 PM   #1
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8283 SS Fresh Water Tank Questions/Problems

I just bought a used 8283SS and have a couple of issues with fresh water. First, even when I fill the tank the panel shows empty. Any ideas for a fix?

When I filled the tank I was watching the panel light to know when to stop and since the light said it was still empty it overflowed out where the hose was going in. I wound up with a bunch of water on the kitchen floor. Is this just because I overflowed it or do I have another problem?

Finally, about how much water should the water pump put out. I get about 3/4 gal per minute if I just let the kitchen cold water run. The pump comes on and off every few seconds. Is this typical?

I kind of a newbie here and appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:47 PM   #2
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The water tank sensors are pretty straight forward.

If the empty light is lit when you press the fresh water button there is power to the sensor panel. Trouble shooting guide is attached.

If NONE of the quantity lights come on, then there is either a broken ground wire at the tank or the resistor pak is bad. The photo below is of a gray water tank but the fresh system is identical, shows the ground wire on the left of the dump valve. The 1/3 - 2/3 - Full sensors are on the right of the dump valve. The wires come together (out of frame hidden by the frame of the camper) in a red resistor pak.



The attached troubleshooting guide.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Micro Monitor Panel Troubleshooting.pdf (149.2 KB, 49 views)
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:04 PM   #3
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How did you get water on the kitchen floor???? Kitchen of the camper?? Even if/when you overfill the tank, the overflow/vent should be to the outside, on the ground, definitely not in the kitchen floor. If this was true, you're going to splash water out the overflow onto the floor while towing with a full tank.
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:04 PM   #4
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Why would an overfilled fresh water tank result in water all over the kitchen?
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:16 PM   #5
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Herk,

Thanks for your response. Do the wires just pull out of the connector on the PC board? How do you put them back in after you do the test?
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:18 PM   #6
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I don't know where the water came from. I'm doing some more testing to see.

Anyone have any ideas on the water pump output?
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:34 PM   #7
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Anyone have any ideas on the water pump output?
I don't get good flow if I have a water filter in the canister.
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:46 PM   #8
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As for the water pump, remove the strainer/aerator from the kitchen faucet and retest. Might also test shower hose, remove the shower head. It will not be great, as campers are designed to save water. The pump cycling with only one faucet open is normal. You can install an accumulator and help some. Search on here for accumulator tank, others have done it.
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:57 PM   #9
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The factory pump with NO OBSTRUCTIONS I believe is suppose to put out 2.8 GPM. As mentioned above, the filter canister restricts flow, as does distance and strainers, etc. You can get more powerful 12 v pumps, but they also use more battery power to operate, and the pump you have is already a very large power hog! Randy
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Old 11-16-2010, 07:16 PM   #10
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Herk,

Thanks for your response. Do the wires just pull out of the connector on the PC board? How do you put them back in after you do the test?
On the back of the monitor there is a circuit board with a white push on connector with all the wires.

However I would drop the belly panel and look directly at the sensors. If the wire is broken at the sensor you will see it and it will be an easy fix. Strip it again and put it on the stud.

NOTE: You MUST use two wrenches. One to hold the nut that seals the sensor to the tank, and the other to actually remove the nut that holds the wire on.

If all the wires are solid, from my reading of the troubleshooting guide, the resitor pak on that tank is bad. The sensors never "fail"; they just indicate "ON" due to conductive slime on the tank wall.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:23 PM   #11
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However I would drop the belly panel and look directly at the sensors.
One of the problems I have with these things is getting into them. I'm on the road now and haven't looked at it real hard but I don't see how to drop the belly panel. I'll look at it harder when I get home but can you give me a quick pointer?

Also, it turns out I get less than 1gpm whether I'm on city water or the pump although a little higher with city water. Is this normal or do I need a new filter or something?
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:25 PM   #12
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Pump ratings are at the outlet with No restrictions. By the time you get the small pipe, and the faucet, you will get much less. That is why in post #8, I asked him to test other faucets.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:36 PM   #13
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Dropping the belly panel is not for the faint of heart.

It is also not something I would try "on the road" as there are a lot of screws holding it up. I would take out just enough screws to see where stuff is. I plan on making an inspection panel to cover a hole I plan to cut when I find out where it needs to be cut.

I will be putting in Horst Miracle Probes for Wastewater Tanks in Recreational Vehicles RVs in the Spring and my belly panels will be coming down for that project.
Oh, BTW the web site has an AWESOME video on how the original sensors work and how they "fail." There is also a great scene of the fresh water tank probes and how they are mounted.

Again, not a vendor. I am a customer (although the probes are destined for my Christmas Stocking).
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