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Old 11-05-2013, 08:37 AM   #1
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8289WS Fifth Wheel shaking

What do you guys do to stop the shaking and rocking when someone is walking around inside.
Thanks for any info
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:40 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by hammerhead View Post
What do you guys do to stop the shaking and rocking when someone is walking around inside.
Thanks for any info
Jack stabilizers.

Use the search function you'll likely find hours worth of reading for your enjoyment!

Search "stabilizer"

Heck I did it for you.

http://www.google.com/search?q=stabi...W_enUS514US514

Good luck!

Turbs
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:18 AM   #3
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Some have installed JT Strongarms. Heard they help alot. Been thinking of doing it as well, but then I do have to tell myself I'm camping and I have to rough it a little bit
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:18 AM   #4
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The best result you will get if you do what OC (aka Old Coot) did with his 5er of similar size. Front, back and close to axles. Highly recommended.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:20 AM   #5
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OK, HH, here's the raw truth. As long as the trailer's weight is on the suspension, you will get movement. That's why those Class As have "levelers," not "stabilizers," to unload their suspensions.
Now, you can go to great effort and some expense to minimize the walking-around blues.
I use X-chocks to minimize forward-to-rear rocking. They help. One trip, I crawled under the trailer and put scissor jacks on the plates that carry the torsion tubes and that helped, too. But that procedure was a PITA for an old dude as I.
Some folks swear by the add-on stabilizer braces and I'm sure they help, too. BUT, the bottom line is - as long as your suspension is carrying the weight of the trailer, you will get movement. You must decide how much extra set up time and dollars you want to throw into a partial solution.
After setting the OEM stabs and putting the X-chocks in place, Penny has declared that good enough. Leveling and stabilizing is back to an under-10-min. operation and we're good with that.

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Old 11-05-2013, 09:21 AM   #6
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X-chocks seem to stop the front to back rocking; the stabs (like jack stabs) seem to stop the left to right.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:24 AM   #7
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My process has been:

1) Triangulation at the stabilizers (I used UltraFab Eliminators, but there are also JT's StrongArms, SteadyFast system and homegrown DIY solutions)
2) Between-the-wheel wheel chocks (I used RotoChoks, but there are also BAL X-Chocks)

We still have a good bit of movement.

I tried the Valtera Stabilizer Stand cross-ways near the axle and it didn't make a lick of difference. I'm going to get a couple of scissor jacks and put them there to see how it does.

As well, I want to get a step-support for each set of steps.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
My process has been:

1) Triangulation at the stabilizers (I used UltraFab Eliminators, but there are also JT's StrongArms, SteadyFast system and homegrown DIY solutions)
2) Between-the-wheel wheel chocks (I used RotoChoks, but there are also BAL X-Chocks)

We still have a good bit of movement.

I tried the Valtera Stabilizer Stand cross-ways near the axle and it didn't make a lick of difference. I'm going to get a couple of scissor jacks and put them there to see how it does.

As well, I want to get a step-support for each set of steps.
Oc step support. ....

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Old 11-05-2013, 09:49 AM   #9
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You are always going to have movement unless your put the trailer on a foundation. You can help stop it by the ways mentioned above but you will still have some. The first thing that I did that really helped was to get a stair step support. I got mine from the oldcoot. He will sell you one just send him a PM. That really helped the most. After I got rid of that motion from going in and out of the unit, I still had rocking walking around inside. I then put on the JT strong arms. They also helped enough that my wife is now happy and it made it pretty solid. I really never felt the forward and backwards movement so I have never used the roto chocks between the wheels. Just by doing those 2 things I feel my trailer is solid enough for me. But everyone is different, after all it is a trailer on wheels. Some people swear by the king pin stabilizer but I really do not think they really help, but that's my opinion.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:50 AM   #10
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Oc step support. ....
Now that is a nice step support!!

Quite possibly the only one I have seen that would work worth a you know what!!

Where does one find these elusive supports?
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:54 AM   #11
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Send a PM to Old Coot and he will help you further.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:57 AM   #12
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Now that is a nice step support!!

Quite possibly the only one I have seen that would work worth a you know what!!

Where does one find these elusive supports?
Old coot.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:00 PM   #13
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What do you guys do to stop the shaking and rocking when someone is walking around inside.
Thanks for any info
We use the BAL 28012 X-Chock Tire Locking Chock for the wheels and the BAL 25066 Fastjack King Pin Stabilizer. With these and the rear stabilizer jacks down we have virtually NO shake, rattle or roll in our Unit.

Take a look on Amazon and, if you are a Prime member, the 2 items will set you back @ $175.00 and shipped free (remember you need a 2 pack of the X-Chocks)

Setup is a breeze -- I can have both chocks and the King Pin Stabilizer set up in under 8 min.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:51 PM   #14
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I will 2nd what HSVBamaBob just posted...we have the same chocks but a different King Pin Stabilizer, same idea. There is a night and day difference when you use them...sometimes when we are just stopping for the night where I don't bother with the King Pin stabilizer and you can sure see the difference...the wheel chocks work great and I wouldn't be without them.

Rick
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:57 AM   #15
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What I found made a huge difference was not extending the landing gear as much as possible...ie setting them down on 6x6 blocks or more.
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:03 AM   #16
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The idea of the blocks is a good one, only problem with blocks is the bulkiness and the weight. They take up a lot of storage space, and they are heavy.

Rick
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:27 AM   #17
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The idea of the blocks is a good one, only problem with blocks is the bulkiness and the weight. They take up a lot of storage space, and they are heavy.

Rick
Rick,

There's a sneaky way around this! We got a 4-5' section of 4x4" from a local crating company (free, but you could go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy one for less than $10)

Take a look at your front jacks and cut the 4x4 to be a few inches longer than the width of the jack cap. Presto! You have a 4" (well actually 3.5") extension block. (This will also work on the back stabelizer jack pads as well. Total added weight for all for blocks is maybe 5 pounds?

One small problem department: This method is great on concrete, not so good on gravel, and absolutely sucks on soft ground!

Solution: Buy these: Amazon.com: Camco 44541 RV Large Stabilizer Jack Pad - 2 pack: Automotive=

or their smaller versions: Amazon.com: Camco 44595 RV Stabilizer Jack Pad - 4 pack: Automotive=

We use these and the blocks all the time - even on concrete, effectivelly raising the jacks almost 5"
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:45 AM   #18
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Took some Camco blocks and covered the top & bottom with alum tread plate and bolted them to the jack pads. Works great on gravel, soft ground or concrete. Have now painted them all black.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:23 AM   #19
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Old Coot...what are the white boxed things we can see under your rear bumper? Are those PVC boxes to hold your sewer hose?

Rick
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:15 AM   #20
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Old Coot...what are the white boxed things we can see under your rear bumper? Are those PVC boxes to hold your sewer hose?

Rick
People use them for a lot of things- sewer hose, collapsible ladders, rugs, etc.

Here's a thread on how folks are making them:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ose-42096.html
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