AC not cooling enough when in 90's

[rmshorter]

I have the same question as joy-rick. What do you mean by: "quick air dump" ?

[bob caldwell]

See previous 2 posts

[Iwannacamp]

If your RV is like mine... They don't have enough drops in the a/c system. If I have trouble with the new one I will pursue adding more outlets. I think I have 4 or maybe 5 in the whole trailer(for the rear air.) You can obviously tell it needs more outlets by listening to it.

[A32Deuce]

I added small awnings over all side windows that are not covered by main awning. Makes an air gap and blocks direct sun on glass. Changed all roof vents to powered and that cut down on ac use plus made it cooler inside. Also my rv is white, no dark custom paint to attrack more heat.

[djreg]

I have a 39 ft with 5 slides. 3 slides have bigs window, so I got and rv accessories catalog and bought 3 perforated window awnings that you have pull down with and awning rod. Installed around $650.00. They will help a bunch. DO NOT leave them fastened down in a wind storm. My windows are 60 inches wide and 50 inches long. I also only have 1 ac 15,000 byu. You will still be able to see out your windows.

[5picker]

You've received a lot of good suggestions, I'll add another.

Start running your air conditioner earlier than when you think you need to turn it on.
If you wait until it is 80º to start running your A/C, it is already behind the 8 ball.

It will work better and more efficiently if you start early keeping the inside temps cooler.

[bob caldwell]

X2

[TonyShope]

It is not difficult to make a mount for a window unit that is super secure (prevent break in) installs in 5 minutes. As I do not know your square I cannot give an exact sizing. However that being said you can buy 2 5000 BTU 110 volt low amperage units at walmart for less than $300. I lived in the military in Puerto Rico as an MP for many years so security was a must. Think plywood 12-3/4 inch thick marine rated inner and outer piece. Plugu into your unit. at 90 degrees my 13k roof job struggles over 85. I have a 17KL so pretty small and a 5k will freeze you hind end out. the unit weghs 18 lbs with the framing & stand quick install I have $166 into it. I could have spent $250 for a quieter unit but it works great and has no window or framing pressure nor does it leak in torrential rain.

[keeprr]

I had a Rockwood and had same issues. In 100 degree weather it only cooled to 85. Now I have an SOB and it will maintain the low to mid 70's in 1005 degree weather. Difference is size if AC unit, now 15000 vs 13500 and I believe better insulation and built. The new unit is a 30 ft 5er vs a 26 ft TT.

[bob caldwell]

Could always install a sprinkler on roof.....

[DFW Rusty]

Another suggestion I just remembered.

You can buy the little booster a/c unit. They are mobile and do not condensate. They run about 250-300. That is my plan this summer, because I don't want to spend $900 to put another a/c on my camper, so I am probably going to buy one of these off of the internet. The only catch is you have to have a designated window to run the hot air exhaust to (I'm just going to build a seal plenum and hook the exhaust to a bedroom window).

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by keeprr

I had a Rockwood and had same issues. In 100 degree weather it only cooled to 85. Now I have an SOB and it will maintain the low to mid 70's in 1005 degree weather. Difference is size if AC unit, now 15000 vs 13500 and I believe better insulation and built. The new unit is a 30 ft 5er vs a 26 ft TT.

I dont want to camp where you do that hits 1005 degrees!

[Herk7769]

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-ac-42280.html

Some things I did to improve air conditioner efficiency and the Reflectix insulation in the windows is right on.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reflectix-3...e-d01b8df4cfb3

[5picker]

Originally Posted by keeprr

I had a Rockwood and had same issues. In 100 degree weather it only cooled to 85. Now I have an SOB and it will maintain the low to mid 70's in 1005 degree weather. Difference is size if AC unit, now 15000 vs 13500 and I believe better insulation and built. The new unit is a 30 ft 5er vs a 26 ft TT.

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

I dont want to camp where you do that hits 1005 degrees!

Boy me either! I'll just stay home.
Never cared for that route to Mars anyway!

[bob caldwell]

NASA has a sale on heat shields!.....

[keeprr]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

I dont want to camp where you do that hits 1005 degrees!

Yeah, it was a tough week. At least it got down to 855 at night.

[keeprr]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

NASA has a sale on heat shields!.....

I tried the heat shields but got pulled over and ticketed by the weight Police for being over weight

[Walholler]

Our one 15,000 BTU AC unit cannot cool our 32 ft. fiver during 90 to 100 degree weather. Our unit is not wired for an additional unit. I worked around this by installing a 30 amp inlet connector on side of fiver, ran 12 gage wire through a 20 amp circuit breaker into our bedroom. Installed a non ducted 2nd 15,000 BTU AC unit by removing the existing skylight. I have also ordered and received, but not installed yet, a Fantastic fan that will exhaust the hot air built up inside while under tow. If anyone would like additional info on this mod, contact me at Walholler@hotmail.com.

[clayart]

Originally Posted by gen3rbc

We have the Forest River Rockwood 8289 WS and found the AC does not keep the RV cool when the temps rise into the high 80's and more. Unit has one AC, 13,500 btu. Anyone experience same and what was done to improve efficiency?

I too would like to know the answer to our lack of cooling with the Rockwood 8289. We opened the louvers on the ceiling beneath the air conditioner and it does help somewhat.

[nicholsm4]

I found this link to Dometic Tech Bulletin only covers units made 2013-2015

Dometic Brisk Air II Technical Bulletin

A couple of other thoughts - how is the voltage where you are hooking up? A drop in voltage can cause problems and reduced cooling capacity. If you have a 30a service to your unit plug it into a splitter and use the 50a plug to hopefully limit voltage drop experienced in some 30a circuits in RV parks.

Freon does not wear out - it must leak out and to simply add freon without repairing the leak is kicking the can down the road.

This may help too: "This defect leads directly to a potential leak of refrigerant and subsequent loss of cooling power within the unit. Since the blower motor, fan and compressor will still operate, the only way to tell if your unit has leaked refrigerant if to check the output temperature at the cold air exhaust and compare that reading to the ambient air temperature measured at the return air grill.

Both of these measurements are to be taken INSIDE the trailer with the unit running for at least 10-15 minutes. If you are not seeing an 18-22ºF drop in the measured temperature between the return air grill and the cold air exhaust (regardless of the temperature outside the trailer), you have probably experienced a refrigerant leak in the unit."

I agree that units with 3 slides that will be used in summer conditions should probably have 2 a/c. The extra volume is just too great to be cooled by a single 13.5k unit especially if it is parked in full sun. Hope this helps.