All Windjammer Owners

[dankirk]

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

This is what my truck bed edge looks like with my cover. No pockets.

If you can fit these Yakima Landing Pads on your rail, you can add the same rack I have. But, you wouldn't be able to flip open your cover with the rack installed.

[Rhizzlebop]

Originally Posted by dankirk

If you can fit these Yakima Landing Pads on your rail, you can add the same rack I have. But, you wouldn't be able to flip open your cover with the rack installed.

Interesting. I guess you just have to drill into the side rail top and permanently mount these. Oddly mine has a wider exposed to flange toward the cab and it greatly decreases toward the back. Not sure there is even enough to do that toward the back of the truck.

[RVngFam]

Hello-
Recently purchased a lightly used 3008w with the Platinum package, really excited to start using it this season.
I had an RV mechanic look it over prior to purchase and found no issues other than misc caulk maintenance touch ups he recommends.

Just wanted to get your input on some areas where the roof wraps around and I assume meets the gutter.
Would you clean the area and just run a bead of Dicor Caulk to cover these cracks?
Any recommendations are appreciated

[M&K Hoffman]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

Hello-
Recently purchased a lightly used 3008w with the Platinum package, really excited to start using it this season.
I had an RV mechanic look it over prior to purchase and found no issues other than misc caulk maintenance touch ups he recommends.

Just wanted to get your input on some areas where the roof wraps around and I assume meets the gutter.
Would you clean the area and just run a bead of Dicor Caulk to cover these cracks?
Any recommendations are appreciatedAttachment 270472

Hello and welcome to the group.


I have a 2014 3008W with the Diamond package I have owned since new. I had a small water intrusion in the area you point out right over the front door. Under the vinyl molding there are screws. I figured out that the water mostly likely leaked when snow melting was held in place by the awning and water got in around some of those screws. I removed screws one at a time and shot some silicon in the hole then reinstalled the screws and had had no problems since.

[RVngFam]

Originally Posted by M&K Hoffman

Hello and welcome to the group.


I have a 2014 3008W with the Diamond package I have owned since new. I had a small water intrusion in the area you point out right over the front door. Under the vinyl molding there are screws. I figured out that the water mostly likely leaked when snow melting was held in place by the awning and water got in around some of those screws. I removed screws one at a time and shot some silicon in the hole then reinstalled the screws and had had no problems since.

Thanks for the info..this is on the other side of the coach where the slides are, but I’ll certainly keep an eye out over the door by the awning.

[MCTroy]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

Hello-
Recently purchased a lightly used 3008w with the Platinum package, really excited to start using it this season.
I had an RV mechanic look it over prior to purchase and found no issues other than misc caulk maintenance touch ups he recommends.

Just wanted to get your input on some areas where the roof wraps around and I assume meets the gutter.
Would you clean the area and just run a bead of Dicor Caulk to cover these cracks?
Any recommendations are appreciatedAttachment 270472

WELCOME! I hope you enjoy your Windjammer as much as we do ours. They are really good trailers. And you are right to be worried about the maintenance around those gutters. You don't want to see what we had while driving down the interstate. In the rearview mirror i could see a bubble starting and then growing as the edge of the rubber roof was coming loose! Fortunately, our insurance helped to cover the cost of a new roof membrane as the damage started with a tree branch. Perhaps we should have used a little caulk around those edges too.
Happy Jammer trails ahead!

[RVngFam]

Originally Posted by MCTroy

WELCOME! I hope you enjoy your Windjammer as much as we do ours. They are really good trailers. And you are right to be worried about the maintenance around those gutters. You don't want to see what we had while driving down the interstate. In the rearview mirror i could see a bubble starting and then growing as the edge of the rubber roof was coming loose! Fortunately, our insurance helped to cover the cost of a new roof membrane as the damage started with a tree branch. Perhaps we should have used a little caulk around those edges too.

Happy Jammer trails ahead!

Thanks, sorry to hear you had those issues but glad you got them worked out and you’re not enjoying the Windjammer.

[Rhizzlebop]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

Hello-
Recently purchased a lightly used 3008w with the Platinum package, really excited to start using it this season.
I had an RV mechanic look it over prior to purchase and found no issues other than misc caulk maintenance touch ups he recommends.

Just wanted to get your input on some areas where the roof wraps around and I assume meets the gutter.
Would you clean the area and just run a bead of Dicor Caulk to cover these cracks?
Any recommendations are appreciatedAttachment 270472

I have this exact same question. Where the rubber roof meets the edge trim at the gutter. I want to ensure that gap is sealed tightly as it’s an area where water can enter. Also I just bought this 3006 wk and it’s a diamond. It was well maintained but it sat near and under trees. The gutters were full of muck when I got it. I cleaned all that.

I want to caulk that edge
But not sure what to use. Dicor will shrink over time and I’m thinking it will not be easy to remove.

Silicone is a No No.

I’m leaning towards pro flex. However that stuff while holds great it also turns yellow and seems to hold dirt in it where I’ve used it before. This coach being tan beige color not sure how clear proflex will look if it yellows out. I figure white for sure will stick out badly right there.

I’ve also heard Siken has some good RV caulk but never used it.

Thoughts?

[RVngFam]

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

I have this exact same question. Where the rubber roof meets the edge trim at the gutter. I want to ensure that gap is sealed tightly as it’s an area where water can enter. Also I just bought this 3006 wk and it’s a diamond. It was well maintained but it sat near and under trees. The gutters were full of muck when I got it. I cleaned all that.



I want to caulk that edge

But not sure what to use. Dicor will shrink over time and I’m thinking it will not be easy to remove.



Silicone is a No No.



I’m leaning towards pro flex. However that stuff while holds great it also turns yellow and seems to hold dirt in it where I’ve used it before. This coach being tan beige color not sure how clear proflex will look if it yellows out. I figure white for sure will stick out badly right there.



I’ve also heard Siken has some good RV caulk but never used it.



Thoughts?

I plan on cleaning ( removing anything that’s loose) and recaulking using Dicor …the one that seems mostly maintanance free option would be to use eternabond in that area down into the gutter.
I will consider this for the future if I find that the dicor doesn’t hold up as well as expected.

[Rhizzlebop]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

I plan on cleaning ( removing anything that’s loose) and recaulking using Dicor …the one that seems mostly maintanance free option would be to use eternabond in that area down into the gutter.
I will consider this for the future if I find that the dicor doesn’t hold up as well as expected.

I’ve heard alternately that eternabond is not so eternal. Could be how it was applied.

Does eternabond come in a tan or beige color? I could see using a narrow strip and getting it into the gutter edge over a little NON self leveling dicor.

I

[RVngFam]

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

I’ve heard alternately that eternabond is not so eternal. Could be how it was applied.



Does eternabond come in a tan or beige color? I could see using a narrow strip and getting it into the gutter edge over a little NON self leveling dicor.



I

I’ve never seen it in tan, there may be other brands that have multiple colors, but I wouldn’t deviate from the Eternabond brand.
Keep me posted on what you end up doing.

[NMWildcat]

My BIL has tan Eternabond all over his Grand Design roof: https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-EB...09878383&psc=1

[Rhizzlebop]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

My BIL has tan Eternabond all over his Grand Design roof: https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-EB...09878383&psc=1

Thanks!!

Inwouodnfeel better about a bead of dicor woth eternabond over it. I just know dicor by itself will shrink and crack in a few years.

Now seriously if Eternabond is so “Eternal” then how do I remove it later to renew or ensure it’s not leaking under to a cracked dicor?

I know it’s not eternal, nothing is permanent against this hot south east sun but seriously how do you remove it without tearing the rubber roof?

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

Thanks!!



Inwouodnfeel better about a bead of dicor woth eternabond over it. I just know dicor by itself will shrink and crack in a few years.



Now seriously if Eternabond is so “Eternal” then how do I remove it later to renew or ensure it’s not leaking under to a cracked dicor?



I know it’s not eternal, nothing is permanent against this hot south east sun but seriously how do you remove it without tearing the rubber roof?

I have used Eternabond for several problem areas on my RV roof. Been there for at least 7 years in the SW sun. No problems, no need to redo.
I did have to replace a skylight that had Eternabond around it last year. I waited for a hot day (some use heat guns) and used a plastic putty knife and just pulled it up while lightly running the putty knife under it. No problem. Most of the sticky sealant came up also but I wasn't worried about it being perfectly clean as I just replaced the skylight and Eternabond over it.
If you do the initial Eternabond application as per instructions you should not have to replace it in the average RV lifetime. At least that is my opinion based on my particular experience.

[grangalo1812]

Hi!

In our Windjammer bedroom, we are trying to get to clean the roof vent cover from the inside but, in order to do so, we have to take the screen off to access the cover.

We took the handle off, but the screen won't move and there is no dent or mark to insert a screwdriver.

Any of you Windjammer owners have had that problem and knows the solution, please share with us as it would be greatly appreciated!!

Thank you in advance!!

[tuckerdog1]

Had to replace my vent covers ( old & cracked ). That required removing the screens. Here is a video. At about 1:15 into it, they remove the screen. Really a lot more trouble than just going up on the roof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BBOuWjY__M

[RVngFam]

Does anyone what the handle on the right controls/flushes?
I’ve read that some of these trailers have 2 separate gray tanks, is this correct?

[MCTroy]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

Does anyone what the handle on the right controls/flushes?
I’ve read that some of these trailers have 2 separate gray tanks, is this correct?Attachment 270731

That is how our black and gray water tanks are plumbed. The one on the right is the gray water tank.

[Rhizzlebop]

Originally Posted by RVngFam

Does anyone what the handle on the right controls/flushes?
I’ve read that some of these trailers have 2 separate gray tanks, is this correct?Attachment 270731

Dude. Mine has 2 grey tanks. But it’s 17 ft further up the drivers side toward the front. Separate tank for any sinks that are in front of the axles. Not an extra pull handle right at the rear discharge. What’s in your photo is a standard grey and black tank pull that share a single discharge point at the rear.

[RVngFam]

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

Dude. Mine has 2 grey tanks. But it’s 17 ft further up the drivers side toward the front. Separate tank for any sinks that are in front of the axles. Not an extra pull handle right at the rear discharge. What’s in your photo is a standard grey and black tank pull that share a single discharge point at the rear.

Thanks! Yes, mine has another handle a few feet further toward the front, I’m assuming that it’s for the kitchen sink in the front.