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Old 09-09-2015, 09:48 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by BamaBob View Post
Umm...if they have damaged your roof, shouldn't they be responsible to repair it (probably just some dicor or eternabond is all that is needed.)
Oh yeah, they repaired it. But it just makes me sick it happened.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:09 PM   #42
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I have talked to dometic, Question for you. Do you have two stats and 2 units? If you do Honeywell will not work being the second stat which is called a slave stat. If you have only one and can post a picture of the subbase so I can see how they have it wired I might beable to help, but you will also need a jumper wire with two alligator clips on it. If you want a digital stat Dometic has them but they are pricey. Found this post on amazon under questions, but it didn't say what the unit was:::::: Will this work with a 12v rv system?
A: Yes, it will. I just installed one in my Chalet Alpine trailer. Works great. You have to spend a little time working out the wiring but it's not hard. As others have mentioned, the batteries are not the power source for the heating loop. If you need help figuring out which terminals to wire I can post that. W. Phelps answered on July 21, 2014
Thanks, I will give it one more try before I smash it! I came close the other day so put it away for a while.

The colors are getting faded, from L to R they are red yellow white brown orange and green. The terminals are marked 7.5, cool, fur, high fan, gnd.

Photo attached.

Jim
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:11 PM   #43
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Oh yeah, they repaired it. But it just makes me sick it happened.
I have never been on top of any of my trailers. If a dealer tears it they have the problem from that time on, not me.

Jim
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:44 PM   #44
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I can see how a 13.5 btu ac unit would have a hard time keeping up. Lot of volume to cool inside a fiver.
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:47 PM   #45
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Thanks, I will give it one more try before I smash it! I came close the other day so put it away for a while.

The colors are getting faded, from L to R they are red yellow white brown orange and green. The terminals are marked 7.5, cool, fur, high fan, gnd.

Photo attached.

Jim
I would try
red-rh/rc
white - white
y-y compresser
either orange or brown to fan
tape off the green and either the brown you have left over or orange.
Your only going to have a single fan high or low, really not much difference in CFM'S. Could the brown be Black faded out. Green is normally fan. You can tell by unhooking each one at atime and see what it controls start with the orange and see what comes on when you put the cover on, then rehook the orange and do the brown, and then the same with the green when it won't come on at all we know what is your ground then.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:04 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
I would try
red-rh/rc
white - white
y-y compresser
either orange or brown to fan
tape off the green and either the brown you have left over or orange.
Your only going to have a single fan high or low, really not much difference in CFM'S. Could the brown be Black faded out. Green is normally fan. You can tell by unhooking each one at atime and see what it controls start with the orange and see what comes on when you put the cover on, then rehook the orange and do the brown, and then the same with the green when it won't come on at all we know what is your ground then.
The colors are getting faded, from L to R they are red yellow white brown orange and green. The terminals are marked 7.5, cool, fur, high fan, gnd.



I just realized I screwed up when I wrote this so here goes again. This is what is on thhe Dometic.

red is 7.5
yellow is cool
white is fur
brown is high fan
orange is fan
green is gnd
blue is not used.

I will give it a try when I feel up to it. I am rreally hurting today so maybe tomorrow. I wil let yo u know how I make out

Thanks for trying to help me.

Jim
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:23 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
The colors are getting faded, from L to R they are red yellow white brown orange and green. The terminals are marked 7.5, cool, fur, high fan, gnd.



I just realized I screwed up when I wrote this so here goes again. This is what is on thhe Dometic.

red is 7.5
yellow is cool
white is fur
brown is high fan
orange is fan
green is gnd
blue is not used.

I will give it a try when I feel up to it. I am rreally hurting today so maybe tomorrow. I wil let yo u know how I make out

Thanks for trying to help me.

Jim
Sorry your not feeling well
here is the way to hook-up your stat
Red to rh/rc
yellow to cool
white to furnace
For high fan hook -up the brown
For low fan hook-up the orange
Only 1 wire for fan tape the one not used
Also tape off green and blue. So you will have 3 wires taped off.
That should work for you...
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Old 09-10-2015, 01:34 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Sorry your not feeling well
here is the way to hook-up your stat
Red to rh/rc
yellow to cool
white to furnace
For high fan hook -up the brown
For low fan hook-up the orange
Only 1 wire for fan tape the one not used
Also tape off green and blue. So you will have 3 wires taped off.
That should work for you...
Thank you. I will give it a try. Just one problem. What terminal is the cool, furnace and high fan? Honeywell marks their terminals as B, O,G, Y, W, and the R - Rc. I have tried matching color to the letter such as Y is yellow and it didn't work.

Jim
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:10 PM   #49
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Thank you. I will give it a try. Just one problem. What terminal is the cool, furnace and high fan? Honeywell marks their terminals as B, O,G, Y, W, and the R - Rc. I have tried matching color to the letter such as Y is yellow and it didn't work.

Jim
Forget B and O do not attach anything
G- is your fan
y-is your compressor
w- is your furnace
R-RC - should have a jumper installed already if not strip the red back and wrap it around both. Rh stands for heat RC stands for cooling You need both energized all the time with your Red wire.
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:14 PM   #50
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Thank you. I will give it a try. Just one problem. What terminal is the cool, furnace and high fan? Honeywell marks their terminals as B, O,G, Y, W, and the R - Rc. I have tried matching color to the letter such as Y is yellow and it didn't work.

Jim
If you touch the yellow and red together the compressor should start. If you have a switch that say's electric or gas make sure it is on gas. Take a picture of the sub base so I can see how they marked the screws on the honeywell I can not find a diagram for it. Then I could probably tell you exactly...
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:00 PM   #51
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Oldtool2; maybe this will help you. I replaced my Coleman Mach with a Honeywell. The Honeywell only did one fan speed, so I had to wire the two fan wires to a single pole single throw switch to let me switch speeds. You shouldn't have to do that, since you've got a terminal for each speed.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:13 AM   #52
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Oldtool2; maybe this will help you. I replaced my Coleman Mach with a Honeywell. The Honeywell only did one fan speed, so I had to wire the two fan wires to a single pole single throw switch to let me switch speeds. You shouldn't have to do that, since you've got a terminal for each speed.
On the Honeywell only have one fan speed and would have to add a switch if I wanted both speeds. Sense I don't need the slow speed will not add one. If I had a heating stip I might need slow but don't.

Jim
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:37 AM   #53
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If you touch the yellow and red together the compressor should start. If you have a switch that say's electric or gas make sure it is on gas. Take a picture of the sub base so I can see how they marked the screws on the honeywell I can not find a diagram for it. Then I could probably tell you exactly...
Here is a photo that shows how Honeywell marks their connections.

Jim
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:50 AM   #54
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I have a Rockwood 2703ws with three slides. I paid extra for the 15K and slide awnings based on what I have read on the forum. I have found that insulated covers on windows and the two skylights can help. Once it cools down at night I set it at 70 during the day and have had few issues. We live in Florida and camp in September through May.
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:12 AM   #55
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Here is a photo that shows how Honeywell marks their connections.

Jim
okay then hook-up just like that and the way I said in an earlier post. taping 3 wires off, it is battery operated correct they use that to hold the program when the power go's out but you will need them to make that stat work. .....
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:17 AM   #56
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I have a Rockwood 2703ws with three slides. I paid extra for the 15K and slide awnings based on what I have read on the forum. I have found that insulated covers on windows and the two skylights can help. Once it cools down at night I set it at 70 during the day and have had few issues. We live in Florida and camp in September through May.
Covers on the vents are a good idea to help keep the unit from heating up so much. Insulated windows would have to be ordered when the trailer was being built. I guess you could add plastic but it would need to be added on the inside or it might blow off when traveling down the highway.

Jim
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:29 PM   #57
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Covers on the vents are a good idea to help keep the unit from heating up so much. Insulated windows would have to be ordered when the trailer was being built. I guess you could add plastic but it would need to be added on the inside or it might blow off when traveling down the highway.

Jim
At Lowes, and maybe HD, you can get a roll of reflective material, like what's used in cars behind windshields, cut it with scissors to size, and place it between window and shade...shade will hold it in place...really works good
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:38 AM   #58
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At Lowes, and maybe HD, you can get a roll of reflective material, like what's used in cars behind windshields, cut it with scissors to size, and place it between window and shade...shade will hold it in place...really works good
I like the idea of what you're talking about. What I had always seen was at auto parts stores and you had to peel one side of it off to stick it on the window. This sounds like it's just held in place and could be removed easily if you wanted to. Am I right?

Jim
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:52 AM   #59
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I like the idea of what you're talking about. What I had always seen was at auto parts stores and you had to peel one side of it off to stick it on the window. This sounds like it's just held in place and could be removed easily if you wanted to. Am I right?

Jim
Yes....When I bought a roll ( it's not expensive) they only had one width....when I went to Nashville, I cut some and placed into position...what a difference ..I.duck taped 2 pieces together for a larger window and the shade held it in place....left in while traveling, the trailer stayed alot cooler and didn't take near the time for the a/c to cool it down.....at the store I use, I found it in where the house insulation is.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:59 AM   #60
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It is called Reflextics and is what I added to all my windows and vents depending on sun location and such. I think it was $25 for the 2ft wide roll that did my entire trailer.
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