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Old 02-26-2017, 04:44 PM   #1
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Anyone using a portable AC unit?

Our 2702ws was like a sweat lodge last summer. I sealed cracks and holes with expandable foam, cut reflectex for the windows and vents, and turned the sides away from the peak sunlight to no avail. The best I could get out of is was about 10 deg cooler than the outdoor air.

I am considering a portable AC unit. This one:http://https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W87P9C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1X0U JDYL6IY94&coliid=I2N1EOQRYUYLIY

Has anyone tried one of these?
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:24 PM   #2
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1. Is your air conditioner working properly? Hard to believe it would not cool down camper if working properly.

2. what kind of plug and what kind of power does that unit pull? Dont know if an rv wiring circuit will support such a unit.

3. Where you at? the surface of the sun? In michigan would be more apt to have the furnace not keep up.
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:56 PM   #3
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IMHO, I too think your AC needs service. What were the temps in when you experienced this?
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:38 PM   #4
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Our Rockwood 5er is tan and is a single A/C and 30a circuit. Two summers ago we were at a campground where it was just over 100 and in the sun. It was terrible and our A/C simply couldn't keep up. Sweat box for sure!
I have an accessory separate 15A circuit I installed and considered buying a portable A/C like the one you linked for additional cooling.
Ended up deciding it was easier and cheaper to simply move the RV into full shade where the factory A/C could keep up.


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Old 02-26-2017, 07:02 PM   #5
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There is more to the decision than just adding a second AC (portable or not). What is the service where you camp? You will not be able to run two ACs on 30A service ( 30A pedestal ).
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:14 PM   #6
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If the campground has more than just 30A service you can run a portable unit but........ you will need to wire a second breaker box independent of the trailers main power and.... 14,000 may be too big. We have ran an 8000 portable unit with no issues but on it own line to the pedestal. Also remember you have the hose (s) to run as well.


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Old 02-26-2017, 07:16 PM   #7
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I agree the 10 degrees cooler than ambient...you have other problems. In my part of the country you need extra cooling larger than about 25ft one a/c isn't gonna be very effective. Our old unit was 36 OAL and one a/c in the summer was a challenge.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:06 PM   #8
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The AC works as it should. Output temps in the mid 50s. It would catch up fine at night and fall behind during the day. The temps during the referenced period would peak around 100* F with humidity between about 80-100%.
The site where it spends most of it's time, I have the ability to run the unit independently of the 30A pedestal power the camper runs on.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:21 PM   #9
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If you are referring to using the 15/20A household outlet in addition to the 30A outlet in a standard campground pedestal, you may be in for a surprise. Many campgrounds tie three 30A pedestals to a 100A breaker upstream. This means you can not be guaranteed that you have more than 30A available to you. Usually the 100A breakers are in locked panels, so a tripped breaker is not a simple reset.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:24 PM   #10
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It's a separate 200A residential service. 20A breaker outlet.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricks Rock View Post
Our 2702ws was like a sweat lodge last summer. I sealed cracks and holes with expandable foam, cut reflectex for the windows and vents, and turned the sides away from the peak sunlight to no avail. The best I could get out of is was about 10 deg cooler than the outdoor air.



I am considering a portable AC unit. This one:http://https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W87P9C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1X0U JDYL6IY94&coliid=I2N1EOQRYUYLIY



Has anyone tried one of these?


Yes, worked as advertised. Your problem is how to lead the 6-8" size hose out of the RV. I'd use the 8000-1000 size unit will add 50% cooling for minimal current draw and compact size. You also need to direct a hose for condensate drain through the floor (maybe thru a cabinet base.
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:35 PM   #12
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If your campground has 50 amp service you can purchase a plug i found at Amazon. It plugs in to 50 amp post them splits to a 30 amp rv plug and a 20 amp household plug .we do a lot of Florida camping so i can run the two ac units at once.the plug was 120 bucks which i thought was worth it. Super heavy duty
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:05 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jtesta1 View Post
If your campground has 50 amp service you can purchase a plug i found at Amazon. It plugs in to 50 amp post them splits to a 30 amp rv plug and a 20 amp household plug .we do a lot of Florida camping so i can run the two ac units at once.the plug was 120 bucks which i thought was worth it. Super heavy duty

or..... if you have a 50A and a 30A plug at the pedestal you can use them both and adapt one down for about $20 But we just use both with 30A plugs

Any number of ways it can be done.

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Old 02-27-2017, 04:32 PM   #14
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Regardless of the electrical requirements, if you do choose to go this directions, don't forget to wrap the exhaust hose with an insulation. It will give off a lot of heat. I've never used one in an RV but use one from time to time in the summer when we loose power. It gets very warm around that hose. Good luck.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:15 PM   #15
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You'll be fine with your cg setup. There's an older camper in ours that runs the two like your thinking. We have the same service setup.
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:10 PM   #16
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We use a portable in the garage area of our toy hauler. Works well. I use cardboard to make a window panel that the exhaust hose attaches to. Actually doesn't look too bad from the outside. I run a heavy duty extension cord to the 20A plug on the pedestal.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:26 PM   #17
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I feel your pain. We are in Florida and in August, our temp can reach 100 and humidity 100%. I have a 8289ws with 30amp and one AC unit. What you need to do is "play" with the air vents. Close the bedroom's during the day and open the ones on the back. I also place a small fan in front of my tv chairs. At night, do the opposite. Keep blinds now. Etc., etc.,....
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Old 02-28-2017, 08:03 PM   #18
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I have the same trailer and had the same issues, I sealed all holes the same way, amazing the size of some of the holes they cut for rather small items, the one under the tub was massive. I also changed over to a digital thermostat, I was told by a tech that variance between the digital and and dial/lever could be as much as 4-5 degrees. Lastly I found when I took off the cover for the A/C inside the camper there was air leaks in the unit and the return air, cold a/c air was being sucked into the return and icing up the unit, lowering the effectiveness of the unit. I was able to use a HVAC tape and seal the leak. Once I did all these I have never had another issue
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:41 PM   #19
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If I remember correctly. Other than the 110vac and the thermostat wires and ducting it is really just 4 bolts.

And yes getting it on the roof is the worst part. Off is easy, just drop it off
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:42 PM   #20
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Sorry. For some reason my above post went to the wrong post. Please delete
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