Bathroom slide door problems?

[Pillboxmc]

Hey all,

Anyone else having problems with the sliding door to the bathroom falling off!
2 trips, twice door fell off. Dealer repaired once, did not last, 300 miles later on the floor again.
2018 2606ws.

Terry

[OldJarHead]

Terry,

We had this issue in our last TT, a Trail Bay 27RLS. I repaired it twice. After the last time, I split a 12" long 2 x 4 length wise so that the width ended up to be about 1.75" and wedged it underneath the sliding door in order to support the door during travel. We have a new 2018 8328BS Rockwood which I need to do that to before our next trip come to think of it.

The dimension may be more or less in your case. So measure the gap from the bottom of the door to the floor.

The header track which is screwed in the ceiling 'studs' is not typically durable enough to carry the load of the door - especially when you hit those terrible bridge interfaces or giant potholes.

Hope this helps.

Dan

[Pillboxmc]

I thought of supporting the bottom, thanks for the push to look into it more.
Just, the problem I have is a 30K tt should not fall apart this fast!
I also looked at the bedroom door, which is almost exactly the same, EXCEPT, the strap goes all the way around the door, thinking of trying this first, since the door is still on order from the first oops.

I also plan on putting better screws into the door with drywall plastic anchors first, then screw it in.

[Timeking]

My door did not fall off, just came loose from the strap and crashed into the hangers after shearing off the limit-of-travel screw.


Is there a better strap thingy available that won't let go?

[Pillboxmc]

Ok,
This is what I did, and it worked from northern ca to tombstone az and back.
Went I 5 to 58 to I 40, not the smoothest roads.

Remove the door, and take it outside.
I then re drilled 2 holes next to the stripped out ones where the wheels attach.
I then inserted sheetrock beenies, then re screwed the wheels in.
If you notice, the wheel part un clips from the bolts.
This comes in handy when you go to re hang later.
Next, I re screwed the snap into the side of the door and around to the front.
I re used the original strap, but bought new snap screws and covers.
The last pic is showing the bottom of the door being held by the trim, I still need to address that issue.
Hope this helps

[Easymoney]

I just purchased a 2018 Rockwood 2606ws with rear bath and a sliding door. pulled home from dealer and discovered door track had pulled loose from ceiling. returned to dealer and they re screwed track to ceiling but upon arriving home the track was starting to pull loose again. I only live about 15 miles from dealer. I placed 2 small L brackets on each end of track system and screwed to wall for support. I will use a block of wood to support the door during travel from now on until I can find a better solution. I thought of a wheel or roller of some kind but haven't found anything that I thought would fit the door and support it. Anyone have a better idea?

[Timeking]

Wow Easymoney, that sux. I wound up putting a black hook and eye from Home Depot up near the top of the door to keep it from sliding around and smashing things. Now I have to worry about the hanger itself coming loose from the roof. Bummer.


Please post if you figure this out.

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Pillboxmc

Anyone else having problems with the sliding door to the bathroom falling off!

Is that happening with the bedroom sliding door too?
If not, can you check if there is/are any difference(s) in their construction?

I just got a 2909WS which has 3 of those doors and I'd like to know if there is a flaw in the design so I can try to curb the problem before it happens.

Thank you very much!

[Easymoney]

So far the bedroom door is ok. the bathroom door is in the rear of the TT and everytime you go over rough pavement it bounces the rear of the camper more and puts a lot of strain on the track since the door is so heavy. I am also going to put wood blocks under my bedroom door when traveling just in case. Still hoping to come up with some sort of roller to hold door up but still will have to secure it to keep it from jerking the small strap off and sliding back and forth and tearing something else up.

[Timeking]

I thought that these Rockwoods were the "Cadillac" of TTs. At least that is what the dealer claimed. He wouldn't tell a fib just to sell me a camper, would he?

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Timeking

"Cadillac"

Well everything depends on your reference.
For the travel trailer market, Rockwoods have a very good proposition having a better quality than the competition at a reasonable price.
TT industry don't have the level of engineering test and simulation that Automotive industry have because the price they sell the products for will not cover that cost.
You can get more quality but that will cost you twice the price (Airstream).
My previous TT was a Rockwood Roo and we put 12K miles on it in 18 months and not a single manufacturing problem.
Our experience was so good with it that we limited ourselves to Rockwood when we were searching for the next one, that came to be the 2909WS.
My dealer (the guys at the service bay not the sales man) told me that Rockwoods are the best for they don't need to fix them before putting them on sale, like some other brands that they sell....

I believe that comparing Rockwood quality with Cadillac quality is not a fair comparison for Cadillacs are made by, you know, GM.....

[Islander]

For what it's worth... we all know how 'violent' the movement inside a TT or 5th wheel can be going down the road.

My first trip out I found my two swivel rockers totally displaced from their normal position. I then learned the tie down points (on the floor) were missing, plus the tie down straps.

However, regarding the pocket door... if it is not tethered back to refrain any sliding it will do damage or damage it self in time.

If you are having problems with the pocket door bouncing up and down and causing it to pull the track screws out then you will have to look at either smoothing out the ride via shock absorber$$ or stop the door from getting airborne.... or

#1 If possible see if you can mount a slide barrel bolt on the jamb or
floor so it would slide into the door to stop upward movement.

#2 If you drill a 1/4" hole at the bottom of the jamb right through the door and through the other side of the jamb about 1" up from bottom of the door's leading edge (where the door has solid wood) then fashion a piece of 1/4" rod, bent 90 degrees at one end for handle, to slide through the holes to hold the door in place during travel.

#3 If you are not using 'pool noodles' somewhere in your trailer by now here is a good place to start... fashion 2 good sized piece of pool noodle to wedge into the top & bottom spaces of the pocket door to stop up and down movement.

Hope this helps

Islander

[Easymoney]

Rock wood's quality is up there. I just don't know if they thought this one out. Their laminated roof system is great but it just isn't made to take the door jerking on the screws during travel, especially in the rear of TT which gets bounced up and down more. I was wondering if anyone had contacted them directly about the problem.

[Raif10]

I believe our Flagstaff 26RBWS is made in the same shop as the Rockwoods, but I'll leave the more experienced to correct me. We fell in love with the floorplan and quality of finishes. Being new RVers we were devasted (maybe a little hyperbole) when our aft door at the bathroom ripped from the header on our maiden voyage. Forest River did cover the replacement door installation but I was still put out until the service tech gently explained the doors location in relation to the axel and the earthquake-level of movement there. Sure I wish our salesperson would've given is a heads up but man this layout works for us...until the next RV show. The attached photo is our work around - we wedge the after market ottoman in the door and stuff the rolled up door mat under the door slab.

[Easymoney]

Ok since my last post I searched and finally found some 1 inch casters on amazon. They came in a 4 pack for under 10 bucks. Since my door was 1 1/2 inches from floor and these casters liked a little bit being that high I bought a piece of flat steel at lowes 3/4 wide by 1/8 inch thick. I predrilled the steel in my shop and spaced all 4 wheels across it. I used all 4 since they are not industrial grade rollers. I then removed door and screwed the steel to bottom and then screwed rollers into the predrilled holes and replaced the door. This took all the up and down play out of the door. I have attached pictures. Hope this helps

[Yakfishingfool]

Nice solution

[Mrpsyko]

Nice solution. I think I will steal you idea.

[Mrpsyko]

How did you remove the door?

[Cowracer]

My door has fallen out once. I find keeping it strapped in the 'closed' position seems to support it the best to prevent another fall-out. Your mileage may vary.

Tim

[Easymoney]

To remove the door all you have to do is unlatch it from the rollers. a flat screwdriver will flip the latches open and then the door will slide out of the roller. It would help to have someone hold the rollers in place while you slid the door sideways to remove. it took me a little while to get it remounted because there is very little slack after mounting the wheels.