can I drain the hot water out by using the water pump?

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by bikendan

You have the brands mixed up. Suburbans have an anode rod and Atwoods don't.
Dometic is the parent company that owns both brands.

Suburban is owned by Airxcel.

Originally Posted by wilcamp

In case you're concerned about being able to remove the Anode rod, it requires a 1 1/16" or 27 mm socket wrench. If you don't have either of those, try a 4-way tire wrench. One of those sockets may do the job. I've seen some of the highly respected "old timers" use this "hack" when winterizing their units at our seasonal campground.

Atwood/Dometic water heaters have a drain plug which uses a 7/8" socket which is a common size on a 4-way lug wrench.

Suburban uses a 1-1/16 socket, which is a common size for 22" heavy truck rims and is not included in a standard 4-way lug wrench.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

Quick question...how hard should it be to get the Anode rod to turn? I am trying to drain my HW heater and DANG it is in there. I don't want to snap the thing off. I'm starting to worry it is cross threaded. I made the dealer de-winterize, test, then re winterize during my PDI...and they were real happy about it. I'm wondering if they got pissed and put the anode in nice and tight for me.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

Quick question...how hard should it be to get the Anode rod to turn? I am trying to drain my HW heater and DANG it is in there. I don't want to snap the thing off. I'm starting to worry it is cross threaded. I made the dealer de-winterize, test, then re winterize during my PDI...and they were real happy about it. I'm wondering if they got pissed and put the anode in nice and tight for me.

They can be really tight. Many people talk about using a breaker bar or cheater on a ratchet handle to get it out the first time. I had to use a rattle gun on mine on highest setting the first time. Now, after getting it started by hand, I usually use the rattle gun on lowest setting to tighten/loosen.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Rockwood Ultralite 2912bs

Uhhhhhh, you've got things a little messed up. Zinc plating is galvanizing, not anodizing. And that is done to prevent oxidizing(rusting)the metal underneath, like some boat trailers and it's wheels. If the anode rod were solid zinc, it would completely defeat the purpose of what the rod is for. The rods are made of magnesium, or aluminum and those metals become sacrificial for the sake of the tank.

To whom are you referring when you say “you’ve got things a little messed up”? Please use the Quote function to avoid confusion.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

They can be really tight. Many people talk about using a breaker bar or cheater on a ratchet handle to get it out the first time. I had to use a rattle gun on mine on highest setting the first time. Now, after getting it started by hand, I usually use the rattle gun on lowest setting to tighten/loosen.

Thanks Navy!

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

Quick question...how hard should it be to get the Anode rod to turn? I am trying to drain my HW heater and DANG it is in there. I don't want to snap the thing off. I'm starting to worry it is cross threaded. I made the dealer de-winterize, test, then re winterize during my PDI...and they were real happy about it. I'm wondering if they got pissed and put the anode in nice and tight for me.

Did you depressurization the heater? If not you’re in for a surprise right after the anode rod becomes easy to move.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by emm-dee

Did you depressurization the heater? If not you’re in for a surprise right after the anode rod becomes easy to move.

Very good point. Disconnect from city water or turn off the water pump and open both a cold and hot faucet. Then remove the anode rod.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

Yes, fully depressurized.

The sucker just needed one good solid turn and we got it.

The best part was when the rod was removed, and I asked my 13 year old son to open the pressure relief valve all the way...[emoji1787]

He learned a lot in that moment. Mostly not to trust his dad.

Originally Posted by emm-dee

Did you depressurization the heater? If not you’re in for a surprise right after the anode rod becomes easy to move.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

Yes, fully depressurized.

The sucker just needed one good solid turn and we got it.

The best part was when the rod was removed, and I asked my 13 year old son to open the pressure relief valve all the way...[emoji1787]

He learned a lot in that moment. Mostly not to trust his dad.

OK, son, we need to check the ignition system now. Hold on to this coil wire while I give the engine a crank over....

[Daniel.mullins4]

I have always stayed away from pulling the Relief valve to depressurize, most likely will not reseat and will drip, I have replaced many through the years because someone pulled it, if it does drip, when pressurized try pulling and flushing a few times, if that does not work then replace with the appropriate rating for that water heater, there is a tag on the existing with the ratings.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

I depressurized via hot water side in kitchen faucet.

The little trick I pulled on the kid was just to break the vacuum in the HW tank to get him soaking wet. [emoji16]

Originally Posted by Daniel.mullins4

I have always stayed away from pulling the Relief valve to depressurize, most likely will not reseat and will drip, I have replaced many through the years because someone pulled it, if it does drip, when pressurized try pulling and flushing a few times, if that does not work then replace with the appropriate rating for that water heater, there is a tag on the existing with the ratings.