Different Stablizing when Seasonal?

[jdm7]

We're going to do a seasonal site this year for the first time, to make life a little easier while doing construction at my house.

Looking at other seasonal campers over the years, I would often see trailers on CMU blocks or other setups. Is there a better setup for a longer term stay for less movement on the travel trailer?
I considered placing CMU underneath but I've read here about a couple blowouts, so... maybe not, haha!
I typically just use PT 4x4 blocks and have no problem reaching them with my stabilizer jacks, and combine that with a chock between the dual axle tires - it has some movement but not much - should I just stick with that setup?

[Larry0071]

I've talked to some folks who seasonal camp and they like to add a concrete block, then a stabilizer jack to the frame to keep the jack as short as reasonable.

Most folks I talked to did 8 total, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear, 2 a couple feet in front of the axles and 2 a couple feet behind the axles.

Camco makes lite weight aluminum ones while EZ Lift makes heavy duty steel ones. I think I am going to grab 4 of the lite weight ones for ease of handling and reduced cargo payload. No one I spoke to was unhappy using a simple hand crank trailer stabilizer like this, all I spoke to said that it helps, but no one ever claimed that any amount of insanity with blocks/stabilizers would make it feel dead solid like your real house.



https://www.amazon.com/EAZ-LIFT-4886...S11DEBFMKPB1YC

[Larry0071]

The Camco aluminum ones....

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympia.../dp/B000760FWU

[Iwritecode]

We just stack the blocks up to the frame and then add wood and wood shims to tighten it up. No need for a stabilizer jack.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

We just stack the blocks up to the frame and then add wood and wood shims to tighten it up. No need for a stabilizer jack.

X2

[Wilco]

I place planks under the wheels to prevent them from sinking into the ground. I then stack solid concrete blocks up to a couple of inches from the leveling jacks. I will drop the tongue 3-4" down from level and set the rear jacks. I run the tongue slightly above level and set the front jacks. Run the tongue back down to place the weight on the front leveling jacks. This removes most of the bounce from the trailer.

[Blank]

Get (4) of the 3 Ton automotive jack stands from Harbor Freight. About $20 pair.

[walleyewizard]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

We just stack the blocks up to the frame and then add wood and wood shims to tighten it up. No need for a stabilizer jack.

It is much stronger to stack blocks with cells facing up and down

[tomkatb]

Correct wallywizard.

Technically, structural engineers are taught that turned the wrong way as above, they have 0 strength. I have seen single blocks fail as a trailer tongue block.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Larry0071

I've talked to some folks who seasonal camp and they like to add a concrete block, then a stabilizer jack to the frame to keep the jack as short as reasonable.

Most folks I talked to did 8 total, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear, 2 a couple feet in front of the axles and 2 a couple feet behind the axles.

Camco makes lite weight aluminum ones while EZ Lift makes heavy duty steel ones. I think I am going to grab 4 of the lite weight ones for ease of handling and reduced cargo payload. No one I spoke to was unhappy using a simple hand crank trailer stabilizer like this, all I spoke to said that it helps, but no one ever claimed that any amount of insanity with blocks/stabilizers would make it feel dead solid like your real house.



https://www.amazon.com/EAZ-LIFT-4886...S11DEBFMKPB1YC

[bareftn]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

We just stack the blocks up to the frame and then add wood and wood shims to tighten it up. No need for a stabilizer jack.

years ago working with a person who sets up mobile homes The concrete blacks are on the side the strength is to place then with the holes up and down

[Larry0071]

Originally Posted by bareftn

years ago working with a person who sets up mobile homes The concrete blacks are on the side the strength is to place then with the holes up and down

In his defense.... He is not asking for any strength at all from his improperly used blocks. He is asking them to stop deflection of the frame/suspension with just a few pounds of force being applied. And he is a computer programmer, so it's not as if he is expected to be versed in the proper use of construction materials :-) I bet a lot of men do not know the strong orientation of a block, not just him.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Larry0071

In his defense.... He is not asking for any strength at all from his improperly used blocks. He is asking them to stop deflection of the frame/suspension with just a few pounds of force being applied. And he is a computer programmer, so it's not as if he is expected to be versed in the proper use of construction materials :-) I bet a lot of men do not know the strong orientation of a block, not just him.

[bareftn]

I am letting other s know they are placed wrong I see it so many times

[walleyewizard]

Originally Posted by bareftn

I am letting other s know they are placed wrong I see it so many times

Post number 8 explained that LOL.

[Comanchecreek]

Originally Posted by Larry0071

I've talked to some folks who seasonal camp and they like to add a concrete block, then a stabilizer jack to the frame to keep the jack as short as reasonable.

Most folks I talked to did 8 total, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear, 2 a couple feet in front of the axles and 2 a couple feet behind the axles.

Camco makes lite weight aluminum ones while EZ Lift makes heavy duty steel ones. I think I am going to grab 4 of the lite weight ones for ease of handling and reduced cargo payload. No one I spoke to was unhappy using a simple hand crank trailer stabilizer like this, all I spoke to said that it helps, but no one ever claimed that any amount of insanity with blocks/stabilizers would make it feel dead solid like your real house.



https://www.amazon.com/EAZ-LIFT-4886...S11DEBFMKPB1YC

I use 2 of these under the rear end frame on my Crusader. Really helps the bounce and wiggle. My wife likes to sleep in so she really likes them as I am an early riser, and the dog needs to go out, etc. I don't do much else beyond the auto-leveling system. Blocking up under the front jacks might help as some say, I just don't like carrying a bunch of blocks around.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by Larry0071

In his defense.... He is not asking for any strength at all from his improperly used blocks. He is asking them to stop deflection of the frame/suspension with just a few pounds of force being applied. And he is a computer programmer, so it's not as if he is expected to be versed in the proper use of construction materials :-) I bet a lot of men do not know the strong orientation of a block, not just him.

I've posted that pic before and this exact same discussion took place.

Basically, you are correct in that I'm not looking for the blocks to hold a ton of weight. They essentially aren't much more than stabilizers.

But I put them with the holes on the side on purpose because I want the most surface area on the ground so they don't sink as much. And they do tend to sink a little after a few years.

It's also easier to put the wood shims in on the flat surface instead of the side with the holes. In this picture I have an extra half-block on there and another piece of wood but sometimes the blocks fit perfectly under the trailer and you just need a single shim. Trying to get it on the small area where it's actually contacting the frame would be a PITA.

Also in my defense, the first time I learned this trick was when we had our first TT delivered to our seasonal site. The guy that delivered them also set them up and put the blocks down for us. He has years of experience and he put them flat side down as well.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

I've posted that pic before and this exact same discussion took place.

Basically, you are correct in that I'm not looking for the blocks to hold a ton of weight. They essentially aren't much more than stabilizers.

But I put them with the holes on the side on purpose because I want the most surface area on the ground so they don't sink as much. And they do tend to sink a little after a few years.

It's also easier to put the wood shims in on the flat surface instead of the side with the holes. In this picture I have an extra half-block on there and another piece of wood but sometimes the blocks fit perfectly under the trailer and you just need a single shim. Trying to get it on the small area where it's actually contacting the frame would be a PITA.

Also in my defense, the first time I learned this trick was when we had our first TT delivered to our seasonal site. The guy that delivered them also set them up and put the blocks down for us. He has years of experience and he put them flat side down as well.

Agreed... no harm in what you did.

Also agree the strength in the block is the other way but you are not trying to hold up the weight of the R/V nor a two story building so placing them as you have is perfectly fine and they DO provide more surface area in that position.

Now... if you were removing the wheels/tires and expecting the blocks to support the ENTIRE weight of the R/V, then that is a horse of a different color.

For simply STABILIZING... they will do the job just fine as they are.

It is good to see though there are now "cement block police" looking out for those of us on this forum.

[NMWildcat]

Maybe you could have the best of both worlds. Buy the concrete cap blocks that are the same size as the concrete block, but 2" or 4" thick. Put the flat caps on the ground and the top of the stack, and place your concrete blocks holes up to use their strength. And there it is!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-8...N1AN/206125462

[Iwritecode]

The next time any of the blocks crack will be the first time. I'm not too worried about it.