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Old 04-04-2021, 07:05 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jtwreit View Post
Our trailer has a sticker on the outside with tire pressure listed. I talked with both dealer and tire place after going with good years. I was told by both to follow the recommendations from the manufacturer just like on a car or truck. Most vehicles have much less air in the tires then what the tire says. I’m told the trailer is rated that way because of engineering in everything from how the tires will wear to the way the trailer will pull behind you. I switched and nothing has changed. The only thing is they do seem to run a bit cooler then the old tires. I will know more after the weather gets a bit warmer and I see how things go.


Did you change ratings when you upgraded? I went from a D to E
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:33 PM   #22
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Yes I went from D rated castle rocks to E rated endurance
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Old 04-04-2021, 08:11 PM   #23
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Yes I went from D rated castle rocks to E rated endurance


Good to know...thanks
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:16 PM   #24
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reduce your tire pressure.
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Old 04-04-2021, 11:49 PM   #25
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Welp it's settled. Going to lower my tire pressure to 65 and see how that works. Great info once again from everyone on this board! I appreciate it
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Old 04-05-2021, 11:53 AM   #26
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Coming from a Class A pusher, your tires should have a chart online that tells you the recommended PSI for the tire at a given weight on the tire. This is what you should follow, and nothing else. The sidewall figure is not what you should run the tire at. If you can't find this chart, I would email the manufacturer and ask for it.

Here is what I'm talking about.
https://www.michelinrvtires.com/refe...tion-tables/#/
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Old 04-05-2021, 01:26 PM   #27
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Coming from a Class A pusher, your tires should have a chart online that tells you the recommended PSI for the tire at a given weight on the tire. This is what you should follow, and nothing else. The sidewall figure is not what you should run the tire at. If you can't find this chart, I would email the manufacturer and ask for it.



Here is what I'm talking about.

https://www.michelinrvtires.com/refe...tion-tables/#/


That is exactly what I am now using. Found a chart for the Maxxis tires
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:12 PM   #28
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E tires

Just run the tires at 65 to 70 psi,, if your old tires were rated fo 65 psi, then chances are your wheels are rated for approximately 65psi
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:22 PM   #29
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There will be a LOT of disagreement, but I believe that if you are running at maximum pressure, you will get a lot of bounce. Unless you are running a lot more weight, you should still run about the same pressure as before. This is Goodyear, but Maxxis would be the same. Don't run max psi unless you are also running max load.
Agree completely. The trailer did not get more Max weight. If the size is the same, the trailer sticker is correct. If you went up in size the pressure would go down according to every pressure load chart.
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:30 PM   #30
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Tire deflection

Tire deflection may be different between the two different tires. But not positive. Your suspension on your trailer is the same. I just ordered d load range tires up from C load range. I’m anxious to see if there is any difference.
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:52 PM   #31
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Unless you got wheels with those new tires that were rated with them it’s highly likely the original wheels aren’t rated for 80psi. Most are rated 70. Load and max pressure is cast on the back.
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by RobRockz View Post
Found a great deal on some E rated Maxxis tires and had them put on prior to our first trip this year. Older tires were D rated Castle Rocks rated at 65 psi while Maxxis are at 80 psi. Anyone buy up on tires and notice more bounce in the ride? This past trip 2 of my drawers were open (never happened last season) and stuff inside shifted a little compared to my older D rated tires. Kind of wondering if I should have stayed with the D rated ones instead.
Did you balance the tires before installation it is an important step a lot of installers fail to do for trailer tires. However if properly balanced you will all but eliminate bounce and issues with items dislodging in the trailer.
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:20 PM   #33
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As everyone has stated run less pressure according to the tire manufacturer tire charts. I usually build in a 10% safety factor on top of my highest scaled weight for the correlated pressure. Never know how many rocks my kids are going to try and stash in the trailer when we’re out or how wet beach towels may get.
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:05 PM   #34
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Either way I was going to buy a set of these Maxxis tires. I really like them
Who manufactures and sells this Maxxis tire?
I have my original China bombs and have worn well and no cracks on sidewalls but they are going into year 4 and time to change. I was considering good y ear or Michelin E rated tires.
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:39 PM   #35
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Many people will say you must run 80, otherwise you will generate too much heat. The truth is your new tires will perform the same at 65 as your old tires at 65. You should have a good handle of your tire Temps with your old tires, so see for yourself if the new tires at 65 heat up more.
You're comparing apples to oranges. Or maybe in this case, tangerines to oranges.

Sidewall flex creates a great deal of heating in a tire. A stronger E rated sidewall will not flex as much as a D rated tire and will perform differently.

The max pressure specified on a tire casing is a maximum, and it's the RV manufacturer that decides how much pressure should be put in a tire for the application. It would be best to contact your RV builder for specific tire pressure recommendations upgrading from D to E.
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:52 PM   #36
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Always use the inflation label on your RV, not your tires. While it is important to have the correct rated tires for your RV, the Tires don’t adjust themselves to your vehicle. Tires will have a maximum inflation rating, but that is not related to the vehicle the tire is actually on. The engineers that designed the RV did so with a certain amount of tire psi in mind. This is what is on the RV label. The engineers that designed the tires did so with a load rating in mind, not your specific RV. Follow the RV label with a proper rated tire. Most likely the psi on you RV label is less than the max psi on the tire, this is how it should be.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:12 PM   #37
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Carlisle Radial Trail HD

I just replaced the OE tires on a 2020 Surveyor Luxury 267RBSS, size ST225/75 15. I purchased Carlisle Radial Trail HD Special. https://www.carlislebrandtires.com/o...dial-trail-hd/

The original tires were "D" load rated. Hearing the nightmares on THIS FORUM about the China Bombs, I decided to step into an American made tire and chose Carlisle. They make ag equipment tires as well as ATV, RV's and other types of specialty tires.The link is above. In the chart it states for ST225/75 15, model 6H04621, "E" load rated, under Footnotes: *Note: Tire PSI show is the Recommended PSI.

Now after reading this forum, I emailed the company to determine if these tires need to be adjusted downward in pressure or if I am to use the "Recommended PSI" as stated in the chart.


Tire issues have been in these forums now for YEARS and EVERYONE talks a different story. I looked at new tires for my 2018 Ram 1500. The tires that came with the truck are LT and the tire pressure max for those tires COLD is 80 PSI. Now talking with multiple dealers including calling into a talk show in upstate NY that deals with automotive and having multiple mechanics on the phone, they stated, when towing, inflate the rear tires to the MAX pressure COLD to ensure the stiffness of the sidewall.



So if I look at the combination of cold tire pressure PER manufacturer Carlisle and what is stated on the link above as well as the sidewall, load range "E", the cold tire pressure (checked the morning of the tow) would be 80 PSI on all four trailer tires. The two rear tires of the Ram 1500 (Continental Terrain Contact AT's LT265/70 R17 https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...lar=Crew%20Cab) will be at 80 PSI and per the door sticker, the two front tires will be at 43 PSI cold. The call to the radio show (Car Care Clinic) yielded that when towing, use max pressure on tire for trailer tires because of the need to keep the strength in the sidewall and the same is true to keep the stiffness in the truck tires.


Is it right, unknown but follow the mechanics. When I get HOME from a towing, the rear truck tires get put back to 43 PSI cold, just as the door sticker states.



At one point in time, I had additional set of rims for the truck with "P" series tires instead of "LT" series tires. Max pressure was 44 PSI. That had serious sway even with the Blue Ox SwayPro hitch.



Do I still get sway with the LT tires and the new Carlisle tires? I just picked it up and had the tires changed last week and haven't gone on a trip fully loaded yet.


I bet, if ForestRiverForums admins went back through posts and did a search for tires, tire pressure, tire load range, or anything dealing with tires, they would find Terabytes worth of posts with everything different from one person to the next. This person says only go with Goodyear. This person says use 75% of the capacity of the flux capacitor in order to get equilibrium while traveling north south but when you travel east west because of the rotation of the earth and coriolius effect only use 62.8% of the max PSI...yada yada yada....


If people are so afraid to ASK THE DEALER or ASK A MECHANIC, why post in a forum? Go to your RV dealer and ASK the mechanic that works on the units. Better yet visit the dealer/manufacturer of the tires and email them and get it direct from the dealer.



My Surveyor 267RBSS is 7800 fully loaded. The China Bombs said max PSI in the "D" tire was 65 PSI. When we ordered the unit, we got the enhanced suspension that is supposed to "smooth" the ride. With the China Bombs, we had drawers come open and some gear shift. So guess what, we secured the gear better, used some velcro on the kitchen cabinet doors, and even though the trailer may bounce, the gear stays put. Wouldn't you rather have the stiffness of the sidewall than deal with the underinflated tire and have a blow out because you happened to add more gear to your unit than you were supposed to?


You guys are killing me every time I get another newsletter on tires and tire pressure and China Bombs and PSI and how much gear is my truck and is it overloaded.....


Change your tires with good AMERICAN made tires. Inflate to the "Recommended Tire Pressure" per manufacturer (or their chart). Get out, enjoy, talk with other campers but talk to the RV dealer. Talk with your RV mechanic. Talk with some auto mechanics. Talk with 18 wheeler mechanics. They work on trailers. If you want to find out, email the manufacturer and get it straight from the tire manufacturer on how to inflate your tires and to what pressure.


Most of all get OUT THERE AND HAVE FUN! Be safe. Do YOUR MAINTENANCE on your tow vehicle and trailer. Get your vehicles inspected.
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Old 04-09-2021, 01:22 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by RobRockz View Post
I did find this...Attachment 251063

Are these numbers the weights of PSI per axle? I weighed my trailer before our recent trip and it weighed 5280lbs on both axles.

I am running the 225/75/R15’s
Then I filled in my made calculator next:
5280 lbs
Towbarweight zero
4 tires on the ground
LI 111 / maxload 2400 lbs , will explain why)
AT 80 psi.
Gave as advice , max reserve without bumping 47 psi.

Your sise in E load has given 2840 lbs maxload AT 80 psi is loadindex ( LI) 117.
My pigheaded system , determined on what tyremakers also use is to lower by 6 LI steps , because this is for 65 mph given, and max reserve without bumping is when for 99mph maxload and 11% adding to axleweight,
Recently I found out that not all ST use that system, your sise also in the not Endurance so your old D-load need only to be lowered by 2 steps, to give highest pressure without bumping.

But to show that more then 47 psi is is absolutely not needed for safety, I used the 6 steps lower, wich gives highest pressure advice.

If I fill in 2 steps lower so LI 115 it gives 42 psi.

So if weights dont change dramatically you can safely lower to 47 psi.

Your AT 65 psi D loads could even have done with lower pressure, so at 65 psi filled, as you probably did, to my standards also did bump, but not that bad that you noticed it.

My determined bumping standard is that if real weight on tire is less then 80% of the weight , thebpressure is calculated for for 99mph, that then bumping begins.
I add 11% to make it average 90% on the 2 tires on the axle. Then if weightdidfference R/L, you can have 80% on one tire and 100% on the other, and still the 100% no overheating, and the 80% no bumping.

This Load% border is discussable, mayby even 70% will give no bumping, certainly on highway, and centrewear of tires probably only at 60%.
Its all about the deflection of tire.

The 65 psi on D and 80psi on new E-load is safe for the tires, and good for durability and fuelsaving, but comfort is also important.

With the 47 psi the tires can also last up to 10 years( also cover for UV light) , but a bit more fuelconsumption, and absolutely safe for your given weight.
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Old 04-09-2021, 06:21 AM   #39
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In addition to my post #38.
With my 47 psi you can have between 1170lbs and 1460 lbs on one tire, with no bumping and no overheating, and then even theoretically possible to ride 99mph, and still no overheating.

Now dont go driving that fast to try out, yust to show what reserves I build in.
But by all the inacuracies in pressure and weight- determination, this reserve can get that low, that you only have yust enaugh for the real weight and speed.

Also read back after reacting and saw long post #37 .
If your Combination sways, it warns you that you are on the limits. No swaying with higher pressure takes away that warning, and you drive faster then safe, and risk rolling over of combination suddenly.

And in earlyer days the tire- and RV- makers adviced yust pressures based on axleloads, did we have to listen only to them then.
So why should we take their extreme high pressure-advise, for absolute truth now.

I also make long story's, to explain why I give my advice, so reader can yudge for him/her selfes the value of it.
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Old 04-09-2021, 08:02 AM   #40
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this may be a brand that you have never heard of, Ironman: i have them on my Lexington and a couple of personal vehicles. they are inexpensive and appear to be of good quality. got them from a website called TireBuyer.

check them out...

Bill
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