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Old 06-06-2015, 04:03 AM   #1
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Electric & Gas Water Heater Recovery Time

When we traded in our old 18-footer for Rocky, our PDI introduced us to the dual water heater. (Heats the water with both electricity and with propane.)

I asked him if I used both would it work (recover) faster and he said, "Absolutely not, that's a common myth among RVers."

I've never, actually, tested this but was wondering what the consensus is amongst y'all?
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Old 06-06-2015, 04:33 AM   #2
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Using both at same time will recover much faster. Did not actually timed it but when I had 6 people using shower one after another, I did not ran out of hot water as when only on electric after 3 showers water started to get cold.......

https://www.google.ca/search?q=recov...BoeoyASij4KgCg
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Old 06-06-2015, 05:28 AM   #3
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Personal experience: recovers faster with two heat sources.

Should make sense since there are two different heat sources working to raise the temperature at the same time. It will NOT make the water "hotter" since the independent thermostats determine when they shut off and they are set to the same temperature.
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Old 06-06-2015, 06:42 AM   #4
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Hot water

With both gas and electric my wife can now enjoy her shower . Remember not to turn on the electric until there is water in the water heater .😃
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoRick View Post
When we traded in our old 18-footer for Rocky, our PDI introduced us to the dual water heater. (Heats the water with both electricity and with propane.)

I asked him if I used both would it work (recover) faster and he said, "Absolutely not, that's a common myth among RVers."

I've never, actually, tested this but was wondering what the consensus is amongst y'all?
If you see this PDI person again, you need to see if he will contact the manufacturers, so the builders of these water heaters will quit perpetuating this "myth". What would they know, huh?

Suburban's website (emboldened below):

Airxcel | Suburban Manufacturing Products
  • Faster Recovery


    Fast recovery means more hot water and fewer cool water cycles. Six-, 10-, 12- and 16-gallon Suburban gas water heaters feature 12,000 BTUH input and a recovery rate of 10.2 gallons per hour - that's the fastest in the industry. Combination gas/electric models also use a 1,440-watt element to recover an additional 6.0 gallons per hour at campsites. For higher recovery, both the gas and electric element may be used simultaneously.

  • Suburban also uses a copolymer insulation jacket specially molded to fit the tank. This does a better job of retaining heat than the "cardboard" style used on some competitive models.
  • Examine some of the many options available with Suburban Water Heaters.
  • View the specifications for all of our Water Heater models.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:24 AM   #6
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To add to my above post, Atwood even has a recovery chart in their water heater brochures that shows the amount of water heater recovery on electric, or gas, or the combination.

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/waterheater.pdf

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I would have to doubt the PDI's person training if he made a comment like that. Here is a FAQ on the operation of Suburban water heater, just so you can check to see if he was trained correct on it too.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:04 AM   #7
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How would one turn on both heating sources? (RW MiniLite 2306)


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Old 06-06-2015, 08:18 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by 53flattie View Post
How would one turn on both heating sources? (RW MiniLite 2306)


2015 Rockwood 2306
2006 Toyota Tacoma
If you have the Suburban, it in the last link in the post right above yours.

'Suburbans electric switch and much more'
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Old 06-06-2015, 12:37 PM   #9
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Colorado Rick...Fonzie is right on. I've been doing it for years. It is faster with both on....BUT...do keep in mind like Camping Baba said.....never turn on the electric until the heater is full. AND,,,keep in mind,,,,,if you fill it without opening a hot water line in the RV to bleed out air,,,,it'll ruin your day when your element smokes. Look into a sacrificial anode too. They're great to preserve the walls of a heater. I use them on ALL my heaters regardless of whether they need them or not. They ALL need them,,,,,the ions in the water eating up the anode instead of the heater is the proof in the pudding.
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Old 06-06-2015, 01:00 PM   #10
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Best way to bleed the air out of the water heater is by the pressure relief valve located at the top of the wh compartment.
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Old 06-06-2015, 01:14 PM   #11
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BTB - most of these HWH have the sacrificial anode rod built into the drain plug and come with instructions for replacing the sacrificial anode rod. It is to be inspected each year (like when you winterize). The same anode is in every household electrically powered HWH and it's eventual "consumption" is usually responsible for the electrical element to fail, or the tank to rust out.



Our dealer, during our walk-through, confirmed that dual hookup to both propane and 112V would markedly improve recovery time of the HWH.

BTW - due to my CRS Syndrome, we made a sticker and posted it on the inside power panel above the HWH switch, to remind us to switch off the AC switch located outside on the actual HWH when we unhook from any AC source. When setting back up, having to open the vent cover to switch the HWH back on to 112V also serves as a reminder to reach up and manually open the "high temperature pressure relief valve" and verify the unit is "filled with water and vented of air" before switching it back on. Sure to save me buying a new heater element d/t "toasting" it in a dry tank!!
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Old 06-06-2015, 01:45 PM   #12
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Intuitively it would seem that using dual heat sources to heat up water would be quicker. Strange what the highly knowledgeable salesperson said.

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Old 06-06-2015, 07:13 PM   #13
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Old coot.....I don't recommend doing that .....once that pop off valve passes water, it can have the tendency to leak after that. I'd leave it alone,,,,,take the aerator off the kitchen faucet or some other faucet and bleeed it there.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:23 PM   #14
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Old coot.....I don't recommend doing that .....once that pop off valve passes water, it can have the tendency to leak after that. I'd leave it alone,,,,,take the aerator off the kitchen faucet or some other faucet and bleeed it there.
Never had one leak in years of doing it and you need to make sure they are functioning and not "stuck". If they leak, all you have to do is trip them a couple of times and if they continue to leak, replace them, they are not expensive.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:28 PM   #15
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I understand your feelings about it, oldcoot,,,,but I've replaced many water heaters over the years being in the appliance repair business, and I've seen too many leak once disturbed. I've never seen one stick.....they blow at 210 degrees F....or 180 # pressure. They're pretty good at what they do. But there is more than one way to skin that ol cat, right?
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:30 PM   #16
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Wow, thanks for the information. I know, now, that when we bring company having both on for high-demand hot water times is the way to go!

In his defense, the PDI guy was not a salesman but the lead of the service department in the dealership...not sure where he got that bad information. (I knew of the on-demand water heaters but had never heard of the dual ones...my last one was just propane.)

I am very deliberate about not turning on the electric switch until I have all the lines bled and ensure I have water coming out of the pressure relief valve. (When bugging out, I run outside and turn it off as soon as we get our morning showers...don't want to forget.)
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:35 PM   #17
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Deviating from the subject, Colorado Rick....I see that you're from Monument. My wife and I are full timers and had the wonderful pleasure of working the campsite hosts at Cayton Campground between Telluride and Rico last summer. The San Juan Mountains are just about the most beautiful country you could asked for.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoRick View Post
"Absolutely not, that's a common myth among RVers."
The consensus? Your dealers a blathering i...

Nevermind. I'm trying to remember if I can't say something nice...

It's no myth. Both sides run on the same thermistor so it's not going to get any hotter than normal, but your recovery time to temp will dramatically increase running both elements.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:58 PM   #19
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Old coot.....I don't recommend doing that .....once that pop off valve passes water, it can have the tendency to leak after that.
A what a what? That hasn't been my experience. Sometimes it will get a little scaly and you have to tap it off to get a seal, but I use mine regularly and have never had any leak issues or had to replace one.
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:21 PM   #20
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A what a what? That hasn't been my experience. Sometimes it will get a little scaly and you have to tap it off to get a seal, but I use mine regularly and have never had any leak issues or had to replace one.
Neither have I, so I will continue as in the past. Not a big deal to replace anyway.
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